Great video , been binging your oil work as I have just built a B-17 and an ork boy both with lots of metal, silver to be precise and your videos helped move me on from the nuln oil.
Hi Vince, love your videos, have watched everyone of them, some more than once. This is another trick from my scale aircraft modeling days. When the paint job is done, airbrush on a coat of Future Floor Wax, light but with total coverage, after it is dry do the same type of pin wash. the glossiness of the future really helps in the flow of the oil wash. after it is dry just go back over with matte varnish. Also, just returned from a private coaching class with Matt DiPietro, it was great. Would have never knew about it if it wasn't for your videos. Thanks.
I've never liked the future floor wax, I am familiar with it from back in the day, but I just prefer a simply gloss varnish. I should have mentioned in this case, I used two coats of satin varnish before I applied the oil wash. Mistake on my part. Don't worry though, I am very familiar with the varnishing steps in between. :) Awesome to hear you had a class with Matt, he's an amazing artist and I am sure that was a good time.
Vince - Great video; For about a year, I have been using this technique to great effect. Easy process with great results. My favorite thing about oil washes, is once dry I can go back and fix any errors with odorless mineral spirits.
Another great thing about using oils for pinwashing like this is that you can go back after they've dried and do "clean up" rather easily. Oil paints will easily reactivate with more white spirits, so you can allow them to dry, then get a cotton swab or makeup sponge slightly damp with white spirits and very lightly wipe over the areas you want to clean up. This will (with a light enough touch!) remove the pigments from the raised areas and leave it in the recesses. You can also get some really nice feathering effects this way. I also usually like to do a gloss coat before the oil washing, as the slicker surface helps the capillary action and clean up step somewhat. Then a final matte coat and you're in business.
@@VinceVenturella Yup. Wasn't sure if you used matte, satin, or gloss, so was just mentioning I like to use gloss for pre-oils. Always enjoy your vids and have learned quite a few tricks from you!
Good, video! I think I might restart the Impulsor I'm working on, coffee stains for miles. Setting up a workbench in my garage, so I'll have somewhere to use an airbrush too...
Hey Vince, you know I love painting with oils! One thing I have noticed, Winton oil paints have a lot of linseed in them, which is why they dry slowly. Canvas absorbs oils, so the paint needs more binder. Abteilung oils are designed for going onto primed plastic, which is not porous at all, so they have less linseed binder in them. However, this means they make VERY different oil washes, because there is less binder you end up with a much drier, dustier effect. The flatting agents no doubt contribute.
Thank you for the tip. Its the first time I hear about that brand. On their website it is obvious they are made for models painting unlike Windsor and Newton paint.
@@surfacetension4471 Unless I am mistaken, I think Mikey is talking about the end result. Windsor and Newton gives you a shiny finish and Abteilung a matte finish. Sometimes you want one or the other finish. I have been looking at the Abteilung website and boy they seem to have an amazing product there geared toward model painting and weathering them for a really affordable price. I have plenty of WnN tubes of paint and they are marvelous but if I can convince my wife that I need another set of paint because we will all die I will get myself one of their weathering set. Look at these sets: abteilung502.com/product-category/oils/sets/
That's true W&N will dry shinier, although at a 10:1 dilution I imagine the difference is not massive, especially if you're varnishing over at the end. Like you though I like my paint to have a matte finish (mostly so I can see what I'm doing, and to provide a better ground for successive layers). Any brand that works for you is the one to go for, or just mix and match🙂. Gamblin's fast matte range is worth checking out as well. Nowadays though, what I do is make a medium with liquin fine detail, OMS and diatomaceous earth. I use this to thin my oils, gives them the consistency of acrylics, they dry in 24 hours and the finish is as flat as any paint I've used. You've got to be a bit carefull not to create dust when making a batch up, but it takes the shine out of any oil paints I've used so far. I use a lot of W&N artist colour nowadays because they have really good pigment density and tend to be just single pigments which makes colour mixing easier. They have a tonne of oil in them but with that medium you still get a matte finish.
@@surfacetension4471Wow thanks for all the tips. When I see people like you I remember 15 years ago when games workshop was hiding every techniques they where doing so people would never be able to achieve their result level. Now people like you are giving us these tips and they realise that even if you would give every damn techniques you know it doesn't mean that someone will ever be able to get to your level. It gives you more subscribers at the same time and you lose nothing. And btw if you have a recommendation for when I use pastels for weathering. I need a clear coat that doesn't make all the pale pastel I use on a model disapear. No problems with dark pastels but when I use the pale one, well it just look like I didnt even put them on the model. Thank you again for the tips have a nice day. You really have an amazing channel. ^^
IF, mars bases, oil washes - give me black metallic armour next and the sons of Dorn will take to the field in no time :D No other channel is as helpful or densely packed with good information as yours, thank you so much for your work! I really like the background music btw :)
Thank you, that's wonderful to hear, black armor is on the list. While your're waiting, Darren Latham did a truly wonderful dark armor technique on his channel recently you may want to check out.
Have a suggestion for your panel lining pin washing and that is using lighter fluid as the thinning agent. The difference is that using 'white spirits' the flow action is about 40 mph, using lighter fluid you are doing 90 mph. ( hope everyone here drives), cheers.
I think I will give a try if I paint a vehicle next time. Maybe some Gaslands Hot Wheels. If you don't mind, please don't play background music. I always loved that your videos come without anything distracting in the background.
Hey Vince, I’ve been experimenting more and more with oil painting on minis and busts... with how easy it seems to get buttery smooth blends, when would you NOT want to use them? I’ve given thought to moving mostly to oils but I feel like there’s got to be a reason not everyone is using them. As always, thanks for the quality content!
There are some folks that use exclusively oils, they are just more tricky is the answer and the tools aren't as commonly available. Acrylic is easier is the key. But they are worth exploring.
Late to the party (recommending this on Reddit, so looked back at it) but after using oils for a bit, I'd use them when I want the smooth blends, and I'm willing to wait the time it takes to dry. When I want the paint dry and ready to go in the morning, if I want "that" specific color, if I don't want to deal with the hassle, or I want to use a few specific techniques I'd use Acrylics. Otherwise, yeah oils are often superior.
Thanks for the video Vince. I've found that the spreading effect you mentioned can very occasionally carry some pigment with it. Black not so much, but dye based pigments like pthalo colours do pose a risk. You can avoid it by using a less matte varnish (and then spray matte varnish over the top when dry). Also +1 on that plastic slurry video request.
I mix retarder with acrylic washes to good effect - makes it much easier to stop coffee stains / tidal marks. Great if you haven’t got the time for an oil wash. Oil washes still get the best results though!
I'm currently sitting at two Baneblade tanks (commission work, customer wanted all available options). it's a pin wash nightmare... btw: if oxgall is mixed in the wash, it flows even faster in the recesses. oxgall acts as a degreaser and flow improver/wetting agent.
Gold stuff right here, and all that for free. I said before and I'll say it again. I love this man. One question tho. How did you make that insane looking purple base coat?
Worth noting that you don't need to varnish before using the oil paints. They don't react with acrylics at all (neither do the mineral spirits). Varnishing is only worthwhile if you want to change the smoothness of the surface to affect the way the oil wash flows.
Nothing too complicated, some Elendil Violet from Scale 75, Magenta from Vallejo, Fluorescent Pink from Scale 75, Turquoise and Blue Green from Vallejo.
I always love your videos on making cool bases. I'm planning on starting a AoS Slaanesh army from the Realm of Ulgu but a little stuck for ideas for the bases. The lore screams shadowy and sinister but I'm struggling to think of ways to make that look interesting. Regardless, thankyou for making these videos.
If you have ever seen what the Chaos Wastes looked like in Warhammer Online, that is what would make sense to me. Rocky wasteland done in blue and purples with spots of pink popping energy.
Great Video! I'm using this technique on some space marines and the first one turned out pretty good. I do have a question on the Varnishing aspect of the process though.... Do you varnish with a gloss or matte varnish before you apply the Oils? Also, I noticed on some edges the oil lines kind of turn "muddy/grimy", any tips to make those a bit more crisp? Lastly, you mentioned doing 10-to-1, thinner to oil paint, how do you measure that? by weight?
in turn. 1) Gloss will make it flow smoother (and prevent some of that muddieness later), but you need to then ultra matte after. 2) It will always happen to some degree, but the gloss can help. 3) General eyeball, it doesn't have to be exact, just in the neighborhood.
everytime i need a tutorial, i think there is no way vince has thought of this.. but let me check 10 times out of 10 there is an instructional for it lmao
Hey Vince thanks for all your great videos! If I wanted to panel line a bright color (bright or neon orange for example) on a black base would it be best to use white ink first then thinned acrylic or should I look into oil paints?
you said at the 6:00 mark to revarnish to bring it all together, why not use the odorless thinner/mineral spirits on a cotton bud to clean up the excess that went outside the panel line? i watched a lot of videos of people build 35scale tanks and that's their method.
You can certainly still clean it up as necessary, this is more because you will always have some shine or different finish from the combined mediums, this just flattens everything back out, you don't want shiny shadows. :)
if you have Ultramarines and like to buy your first AK oil Paint, which one you prefer to start? My local store had only AK and i have a lot of shades and wash German grey and and and... but no Oil Paint. So pick one to start ;)
Great tip. I've never use oil paints before, but watching this video... I've to try it! Do they have other uses in miniature painting? Thank you so much. I improve a lot, really a lot my paint skills watching your videos. So.. thank you so much.
Oh yes, if you go back through the Hobby Cheating playlists, I have other videos on Oil painting with miniatures, they are quite versatile and lots of fun. :)
thanks vince! what's your thoughts about panel lining with oils vs. enamel products? companies like AMMO or AK-Interactive have specific references explicitly meant for this purpose. have you ever tried them, and - if so - how do they compare to oils? thanks again!
Yep, they are great too, because they have the capillary action (not being water based). I just happen to prefer the oils, but the enamels are very similar.
@@VinceVenturella I'm looking forward to it. I knew that plastic glue melted plastic but I had never heard of putting sprue into it and using it to fill gaps... I actually put some build work on hold until I see this!
@@brandonhouston7575 It's an old trick, scale modelers use. You cut sprue into tiny pieces, add plastic cement to melt it, use toothpicks to pick up the slur, fill the gaps, sand, prime, paint.
Hey Vince, 3 years later, but… Just starting to experiment with oil washes but having trouble with consistency - sin to get the pillar reaction but after it dries, it seems to fade away? and is it 100% necessary to glaze before pin washing? Love your channel! Thank you
It's not necessary to glaze, getting the right consistency is tough. You can buy pre-made enamel pin washes that are tuned correctly, that is another option.
I got some Winsor & Newton water-mixable oils for weathering in an Asset Drop box ages ago that I never tried. I wonder if they're useful for this kind of technique too?
Hello Vince! Thank you for this tutorial... for smaller models, like marines, would you varnish with gloss varnish to make the oil wash behave better? And after the oil is dry, a matte varnish to paint the model again, because I guess the paint won't stick to the gloss varnish?
@@VinceVenturella By "varnish" what precisely do you mean? Any gloss or matte clear coat? Does it need to be oil based varnish? polyurethane is water- or oil-based plastic resin, varnish is older and made from resins, oils, and solvents. What's should I be using? Thank you!!
Hard to get in the UK; but I've been getting good results with Tamia's Accent colour panel liner - probably significanlty more expensive than making your own; but I'm curious as to whether you've tried it.
Closer, but then you run the risk you have them so thinned they have no actual coverage potential, if you were going to go that direction, you'd be better off with acrylic inks, they have a higher pigment density.
@@AvatarOfNateP You'd want flow improver, not thinner. Acrylic thinners are basically just medium, it doesn't change the properties or break the surface tension. Flow improver is basically like dish soap, it breaks up the surface tension.
Would you recommend to use oilwashes for faces instead of acrylic washes? Because I always think (when painting faces of Space Marines for example), that the acrylic washes are not smooth enough for the smallest recesses, like the tear sac or the skin folds on a face.
This is definitely a technique I'll be trying when I finally buy a knight. I did have a video request. You painted your Imperial Fist to such a high standard. How would you achieve a similar standard on a Marine that has a colour split like Howling Griffons or Novamarines? Thanks again, Vince :)
Thanks for the video, but I think I achinve literally the same result with a fair coat of gloss varnish and sonething like nuln oil gloss or agrax earthsade or something like this.
Hey Vince! Is there any way I can see how you paint from beginning to ending any model? A Patreon maybe? Would love to learn all those techniques you mastered (or a lot of them) in the same mini. Thanks for the awesome content!
I don't have a patreon and those videos are always tougher, as they would be very, very long, but it's something I want to do sometime if I can really figure out how to condense without losing substance.
So I will usually use a little satin varnish on matte paint before I panel line, then afterward, it's a few drops of satin varnish and mostly AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish.
If you want to deal with oils faster - drop them on cardboard first, after 30 minutes mix your wash and then use hairdryer on the lowest heat mode. Also search Michael Rinaldi videos about oil rendering
Are you implying that after the second varnish, you can simply clean up any oil spill over by painting over it? Or does the second varnish actually do anything to mitigate the original oil spillover? I’ve seen other painters recommend cleaning up spill over with a q tip. Do you find that’s unnecessary?
I'm not sure what you're asking overall. So with oil panel lining, you can use a q-tip, but it's risky, it wants to leave fibers. You are better with small foam make-up brushes, they don't leave fibrous residue. You want to clean up before you varnish, but if there is any staining left, yes, once you varnish, you can just paint over.
Hi Vince!, Really been enjoying learning from your videos lately. I was wondering if you have a good idea for painting the “spirit“ part of tree revenant in a way that looks a little more exciting and pop a bit more, than the "normal" nihilakh oxide treatment. Thanks for all your videos, its been a massive help!
My answer is always just make it a brighter color. My save screen is the tree rev's I did, which I used a bright pink flesh with heavy transitions. Treat them basically like they are people and add all the appropriate flesh shading.
Hey Vince, I've tried this with many combinations of paints and white spirits, W&N, off-brand and even Abteilung 502 which is supposed to be the best oils out there. Yet with any brand of paint regardless of the brand of white spirit (hardware or specialty like Abteilung), the black paint will disintegrate into a grainy mess when diluted. When applied on a model it looks like running mascara or something like that. Have you experienced this, and if so how do you counteract it?
Yep, so what's happening is you are thinning it too much. THe oil medium is breaking down (the linseed oil). You can use less white spirits or you can add a little Oxgall to increase the flow of the oil.
Do you have any advice for panel lining 3d printed things? I find that while it sinks into the panel line fine, it also sinks into all of the layer lines of the print as well.
With those kind of situations, you kind of have to panel line them like an old black lining method, you can't rely on a wash or something similar, you have to basically take a sharp brush and a dark ink or thinned paint, perhaps with flow improver and reinstantiate the shadows.
Hi Vince, in Gunpla we usually use products that are enamel based like Tamiya panel line accent. We also used a qtip loaded with thinner to try to clean up the little splotches where we touched the brush to the model. Do you recommend doing that as well?
Sure, the clean up is something you can easily do (I think I mention in here that you can always go back and clean it up). I actually don't like Q-tips, as they tend to break down and leave detritus. I prefer small make-up sponges as they are far more durable.
If applied carefully it could. The advantage with oil washes is, you can correct mistakes by applying tiny amounts of white spirit to reactivate the oil wash and removing the excess.
Three major advantages. 1) It's stronger, the washes from GW are very lightly pigmented, this will generally produce strong results. 2) It flows better. Shades have a lot of flow improver, but they are still water based, this will generally flow through the whole seam with very little effort. 3) Clean-Up, As Naph mentioned, I could correct this hours later and remove anything that was in the wrong area. The working time is longer and the white spirits mean what I remove leaves no stain.
Only 3 minutes into the video (and I've tried the method in your other video making oid washes wih W&N paints before and it worked well) but isn't it advisable to first do a gloss varnish on your base panted miniature before applying the oil wash because the paint thinner used in making the oil wash can remove / spoil the base paint ??????? UPDATE: 5:35 ... AHA !
I don't quite understand how you choose which parts to highlight when it comes to tanks and mechs . Do you have a video that covers this topic? I can see it's not just simply top down zenithal.
Hey Vince, any thoughts on using an oil pin wash with light colors instead of as a recess shade? I've been playing with the idea of doing white and cyan oil washes on an Eldar Avatar to make him look like he's radiating white-hot heat from within, but I'm not sure whether an oil wash would give too subtle a result.
I've never tried it, but it seems like it would work. You would have to carefully catch the edges of the panels with light and have some kind of transition up on top, but it seems like it could work, they are heavily pigmented, so it should be bright.
I wanted to ask this too ! I used vallejo matte varnish to try this and the wash seems to want to capillary action itself up & across all the tiny little divets in the varnish, so it will go all over the panel rather than in the recess (done on a 40K knight lower leg plate) - think satin or gloss may be the way forward ! You ever have issues with it on matte varnish Vince? It could just be me being a noob with oil washes
Basically exactly the same, nice sharp synthetic brush and touch to the panel lines and edges just like I do here, this is great for minis like space marines around their edges. You can clean up afterwards with a little q-tip or something similar dipped in a little white spirits.
Do you clean up excess oil spill over/staining after it dries? in so much as those panels getting a spot check with spirits on a brush before you varnish?
Yep, I mention it briefly in there, but I will usually just clean up with a broad, flat synthetic brush dipped in some white spirits then wiped nearly dry.
@@VinceVenturella Those stains around the seems you were saying go away after sealing/varnish? so no need to wipe them? Ask in so much as have been using oils in place of a dark tone/nuln/acrylic wash and wiping the flat surfaces clean while allowing the dark to fill in recesses.
I"m about to build a flyer so this helps a lot, but I have one question. I typically hear that people gloss varnish the model before using oil washes but it seems in the video that it was just matte varnished instead. Did you use a gloss varnish or is simply a few layers of matte varnish enough for a pin wash?
I believe, he did not varnish the model. I recall him saying, he never does. --- edit: I stand corrected Gloss varnish helps oil wash to flow better in the recesses, as the surface is smoother. Also, varnish acts as a protective layer, if you need to remove oil wash from areas.
I did varnish this (I mention it around 5:35), but I used two layers of Satin Varnish, I find it's better for my tastes, but gloss will make things flow the most and then you just matter it out later. The only thing I never varnish is metals, with those, I am just careful.
I will see what I can do, but the short answer is pretty simple. Just some standard zenithal, the purple as a glaze over the top, magenta over the highlight area, highlight with pink, then apply a thin glaze of turquoise to the bottom, and then very lightly apply blue green. All done with airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella what paints did you use for the blue? I'm trying to develop this same look and while I have a magenta I'm happy with, I can't find a cyan that's just right.
