Great to see the team overcome the challenges like this ‘reasonably’ raw footage helps boat owners recognise issues and resolve them often with minimal resources. Love boat life, 70% challenges 30% absolute joy and wonder!
I think Nick is at his best when he has a problem to solve. Brain fully engaged with a goal or ending point in mind. Glad you had a great sail and are enjoying the new boat some.
Nick; it seems to me that you should more irritated with a pressurized water system that isn't properly valved so you can shut down individual lines if they present a problem rather than a system not being "pressure sealed". If the ice maker is a problem, you should be able to shut off the water only to that unit by simply throwing a valve. All it takes is a simple in-line (cheap) valve. When I replumbed our entire water system, valves were an important part of the schematic and installation. It required a major investment in Sharkbite fittings, but was well worth the expense. They are easy to retrofit to existing systems. Also, over the years one of the most valuable tools I have put on board our board is a small 12v compressor. It has literally saved me hours when addressing various issues involving lines (water and fuel), such as those you are dealing with. Can't wait to see your adventures back in Europse.
I agree about the value of installing valves on each pumbing or appliance that use water. This was something I learned over the years, and although I did not replace them all at once - I placed a shut-off valve on each of the major items that might require the water to be shut off for an extended period of time. That is a small ($) price to pay for otherwise inconveniencing the rest of the family for hours while you fix things. Now, all these years later, every plumbing fixture AND appliance has a water shut-off valve. Replacing a dishwasher, refridgerator or faucet is only a minor inconvenience to the family, even if I have to run out for parts in the middle of the job.
@@Animalwon Because we live in the Pacific Northwest of the USA and freezing temps, while unusual, are not unknown, I also installed a drain valve on every water line that is exposed to potential freezing during low winter temperatures. (That probably isn't a concern for Nick.) For example, the water lines for the hot/cold shower in the cockpit for an after-swim rinsedown are run in areas of the hull that are not heated. Rather than just rely on the ambient sea water temps (usually about 8 degrees C here in the winter) to keep the unheated areas of the boat at a temperature where water lines won't freeze, we drain them during the winter. I didn't lose a wink of sleep last winter when a polar outbreak sent the air temps to -15C for a couple days. (I was worried about the house water system though, and set all the taps to slow dripping.) When I replumbed the boat I also used Pex piping throughout. Even if water in the those pipes freezes, it doesn't crack or split them. The Sharkbite fittings are strong enough that they don't break in freezing conditions either. At least I have never had one freeze/crack/break.
My family is cursed when it comes to water. Remodeled family home and redid all plumbing and put a shutoff on every line. Saved us so much effort when problems came up.
Good to see you sailing. I am so sorry for your water issues. It seems to be a QC issue with the builder, and hopefully, they will assist with remediation. Fair winds and following seas!😊
Nick I was in the swimming pool business and used to vacuum balance tanks with underwater vacuum with a portable pump which a pool company could bring, your fresh water tank is basically the same as a balance tank and you vacuum to waste.
It's unbelievable that a company would build a water system without a manual shutoff at every location and junction. Without a doubt at some point in the future there will be a leak and all your water will end up in the bilge and possibly also burn out your pump.
I have to say, 8-9.5 knots and an easy motion sounds fun. Water issues aside, you have got one hell of a sailing boat there! Fair winds and I’m looking forward to the next episode.
This really proves what I always thought, buy a good used boat and fix it. I think the problem with new boats is worse these days because the uncertainty in the quality of most of your components. Speaking from personal experience!
@@geraldhenrickson7472 1) if you get a good survey and buy a good make that’s not really the case. Seems to be a common mistake made on You Tube… but most of us sail used boats and change of ownership to sailing again is often immediate or a few weeks or months… most people do not buy good boats with a survey that then take years to be ready to use. 2) you seem to have overlooked the point the Wynns and RR crew etc have waited four years to get brand new built for them boats… so they did wait years and spend loads anyway. I still agree 100% with the poster that a good used boat is a much better bet. At least when things go wrong you accept it’s used and you saved a fortune which you have in the bank and on hand to fix it.
Thank you for helping Nick be more specific about the particle size! Years ago when I was studying geology there was a very specific way of telling the difference between different particle sizes - for example sand/silt/mud (IIRC you worked out whether something was mud or silt by tasting it and seeing if it seemed gritty :-)!)
As a chemist I suggest you get a local lab to find out what it is. Simple basic tests are does it dissolve in acid try acetic or hydrochloric acid ( pool shop), try dissolve in bleach. This will confirm inorganic. Also try and melt it, means organic. Try acetone or paint solvent will confirm it synthetic plastic and material of construction. This can help your warranty. You can get all these at bunnings but probably not where you are.
I did a delivery of a Seawind 1170 about 7 years ago from Pattaya to Phuket, only stopped at Tiamon for refuling. It was Phil from Pattaya who got me on the delivery, so it is so familiar to follow you guys here. Btw. it was phill who advertised this channel to me also :) Fair wind and be aware of the floading bamboo islands in the Strait of Malacca 🍺
If you see sediment or "floaties"in your water lines or tank, take the time to install a redundant water filter - preferably AFTER a shut-off valve and before the solenoid.
What is the likelihood that all of those plastic particles are a left over from when the boat was built? Our 1600 is been built as we speak, and I want to make sure that both the water and the fuel tanks are being inspected for any leftover particles and dust.
"Squares on the horizon." I was helping deliver a 44' Chris White traimaran from San Diego to San Fran and had the 3a - 6a watch. It was VERY busy on AIS. A ~ 985' cruise ship, which can be seen for MANY miles as they are ALWAYS lit up like Christmas, was on collision course with us. It was travelling at 23 knots, while we were motoring in a dead calm at about 5. I don't mind telling you, I got pretty nervous. It passed us about 600 yards away, but it felt like a close call! Some of these large ships can flat haul ass.
If I was Seawind, I would be embarrassed at the quality of work that they are putting out. For a new boat, yall are having way too many problems. Especially with the water system- which is vital… I would be burning the phone line ups to Seawind.
Hi Nick, while I was impressed with the macgyvering of the solenoid to get it open. Do yourself a favour and get 2 essential tools. 1. a DC Variable Bench Power Supply 30v 10A (around A$60) to externally power a range of items and voltages when fault checking. 2. An 18v compressor with tank to blow/dry/clean parts. Been indispensable on my boat.
One thing to watch is the raw sea water intake. Most boats are designed to use sea water for cooling of the engines and for systems like the AC and of course the water makers(some manufacturers use titanium to offset rusting of pipes with sea water use). The best system is to have a heat exchanger that cools a brine to will go to the engine/AC to extend the life of the engine and AC units without using exotic metals/plastics. But the heat exchange system takes up weight on the boat. For systems with steel/iron the norm would be a duplex strainer (1 in use while you can clean the other) as a rough strainer. To get better filtration another type ( y strainer or other strainer) can be used for better filtration( or 2 Ys in parallel, to clean one in operation- requires check valves). For water makers (reverse osmosis machines), filtered sea water can be further filtrated by a sand filter medium (very large item that requires back flushing of the sand filter) or equivalent strainer. Also the water maker itself requires back flushing to prevent membranes from clogging up on one side. The better the sea water is filtered, the less maintenance on the equipment (But more for checking the filters). Ideally all the piping systems on you boat should of been flushed out with fresh water before the use of any piping system. Today not everything is plug and play.
Hi guys, maybe an idea to have a longer bolt through the anchor shackle to put a locknut on it, or peen the bolt end so it will never ever come loose. Might even consider dropping the anchor swivel too, as it's just another thing that could break. (just check the chain for wind once a year or something, if that).
As a mechanic, I love Nicks explanation, almost as good as last week's aboutnhow solenoids work. You can do a simple amp test with a multi-meter to diagnose the viability of solenoid. I am curious if those microparticles are from ocean pollution as much as possible from human error. I hope the problem is resolved soon, and you both can have fresh water and less stressful sailing.
I feel so bad for you guys with your continued water issues. I’m glad you had a nice sail! I love watching the every day routines like getting tea and how that works on a boat, the monohull habits, lol.
It may be hard to see sometimes but I really appreciate these types of videos, and I bet there are lots of us lurkers who think similarly... Ginger tea and troubleshooting! :)
There should always be a " shut off valve " on every system on the boat just like in a home . If there is a leak in a bathroom sink ya just shut off the valve . Simple as .
Thank you for all the information because it further motivates me to design and build to my specs. I hope your water system issues get resolved. Best wishes !
Nick, I will repeat the comment I made in the last video just in case you missed it. Tackle this problem at source and clean the crap out of your tanks attempting to do by ‘polishing with filters is a forlorn task. Drain one tank down low and use a wet vac (or better a pool vacuum) to get the crap out of them. Have you checked your deck fills - do they have good seals and closing correctly.
16:45 Ruby Rose 2 has RADAR, RADAR has a feature called ARPA - Automatic Radar Plotting Aid - as good as, if not BETTER than AIS tracking. AIS data, *if* being transmitted can be 5 seconds, 30 seconds or 20 minutes out of date, ARPA is real time. Read the manual and learn how to use it. How many times have numerous sailors had unlit vessels, or objects, not on AIS at night? ARPA resolves this issue day and night.
Those Danfoss SVs are very good, except when they get a bit of muck in the orifice. It is either blocked or passing. I always specified a strainer just i[ stream, with an isolation valve before that. Yes more kit, more cost, more waste but the valve is protected.
Would be good to install a bypass valve and use the water pump to recirculate tank water through a filter and Ultraviolet Clarifier. 0.5 Micron Filter will remove bacteria or a 1 micron filter will remove sediment and the Clarifier will kill the mould in the tank.
I'd install water filters at the outlets of each water tank before water gets pumped around the boat. Next thing to plug up are your shower heads and faucets.... Those tanks need to be completely drained and cleaned out as well.. JMHO YMMV Fair winds and following seas !!
so i'm wondering if the H&H of the Wynns are having similar problems but not reporting it or whether Seawind have just done a bit of rush job. Thanks for being so honest Ruby Rose. Seawind you need get into this boat and help and show some front foot after sales care which would be epic, because right now your good brand is getting smashed!!!
Your water maker doesn't receive water from your filtered water under sink or where ever the filtered drinking water filters are? I know I would not want ice from tanks that can grow bacteria etc... Going around the world I would have a full reverse osmosis system with UV sterilization. Then the water should go to drinking faucet and ice maker.
I have a rather controversial question for you, I hope you don't mind me asking. I followed you through the build and I remember you were very vocal about the quality of the build. I have also been following another couple that were building their cat at basically the same time. They have taken delivery and there is a vast difference between your experience and theirs, The took delivery and I don't think I have seen any issues after their shake down cruse, on the contrary I cannot remember seeing an episode where you did not have a reasonably significant problem. The issue with the water tank is concerning and is not just alge (which in itself is very concerning - stuff growing in your fresh water is not good). Any ways, my question is this, if you were to give advice to others would you give different advice to others wanting a cruising cat than what you ended up doing yourselves. I hope the question is not so much on the nose, you guys are really great at giving the difficult side of sailing a full on exposure but it does seem that it might be more than what one should expect from a new boat.
you need to work out a way to feed the ice machine with water that has been past your filter. run a new hose from your filtered tap position and switch valve leave it switched to the ice maker unless you use the tap.
What are the chances Seawind didn’t plug the inlets for the rainwater catchment system during manufacturing? Maybe flush those inlets to make sure they’re purged of crap?
Nick, if she say’s sand… it’s F’ing sand!!!! Haha. I hate yall are dealing with issues, BUT GREAT content. Still remember Nick’s first tat in Charleston… love
Pedantic is an insulting word used to describe someone who annoys others by correcting small errors, caring too much about minor details, or emphasizing their own expertise especially in some narrow or boring subject matter. This is a classic case of projection.
New design at a new yard within the first 10 hulls and at a period of parts limited availability! 😊 the quality of water used to fill the tanks being suspect
While the problems and drama bring in the views, it seems you're having more than your fair share of them with your new Seawind. Hopefully Seawind will make good on the issues that aren't your fault (like the algae growth in one of the H2O tanks). The grit in the water lines is inexcusable.
Your leeward rigging was very loose @13:15. It can be soft, but never so loose that it's swinging around like that. As a rough guide, in flat water, the leeward shrouds should just get soft when you're at your next reef wind speed. In waves, the pumping action of the mast will unload the leeward shrouds more, but again, they should never be so loose that they're flapping around. The risk is that the mast moves more than it should, creating higher than designed shock loads, and could even hop out of its step. Definitely tighten those shrouds!
Your problems with the water system is oddly intriguing. Can you explain where the man made debris came from? Is it a leftover from the build? I’m trying to visualize a schematic of your water system and I can’t put my finger on where that flotsam & jetsam would be coming from. Fair winds! Cheers 👍😎
From a Pom who has lived 95% of his life in Australia. I think the expression is "Don't spoil the ship for a hapeth of tar". Meaning "done penny pinch on the big jobs". I cant believe how many problems you have been subjected to on your Brand New Boat. The odd teething problem aside, the volume of problems after handover is ... ridiculous.
Have you seen the movie "The Mosquito Coast"? It's the saddest story of ice machines in paradise. Your problems will seem smaller in comparison to this. Wishing you every success.
Putting aside the problems you’ve had with the components not made by Seawind, what is your overall opinion/satisfaction with the sailing ability and live aboard comfort of your catamaran?
Nick, seems you not exclusive fill the tanks by watermaker - I saw other ships with that habit they install a special coal filter at the tab were they fill the glasses and the icemaker. I also know, you wouldn't be able to purchase one on this yourney.
Honestly, it looks like something in your water system upstream of the tank is falling apart, like a pump, filter, valve... Otherwise it seems like the amount of crud should slowly be decreasing as you get it out of the tank itself. My first thought would be your water maker, but I'm assuming you've got a test spigot and have tested the output during and after all the issues you had with that equipment. So whatever it is should (lol) be after the test spigot.
From my experience compressed air does not work great to clean valves blocked by dirt, because the dirt gets squeezed, thus the tiny leak. It always needs something mechanical, like a brush. Don't you have current limited 12 V in the workshop?
A good example of how a small oversite can ruin your day and the customer's experience of a product. That tank was not cleaned or inspected before delivery.
Why don't you just put in a pre-filter for the ice maker to pre clean the particles out of the water pre going into the ice maker. Looks like you may have just enough room next too or behind machine.. just a thought quick cheep long term fix. Just keep extra filters. Lol
There are a lot of negative comments about Seawind here. But the big thing is that this boat sails like a dream. They perhaps have come unstuck to some extent with covid etc, and their detailing is rather lacking, no shut offs for every water system and so on. But all rectifiable although annoying.
