Thanks for posting. I really appreciate it. I have been driving my Xterra xe since late 2001. It has been very reliable with 180k on the clock. I change oil every 4-5k. It has never let me down. I do my own maintenance since a dealer ripped me off. Easy to work on. Well easier than gm products. Your vids a big help.
Just bought an 03 with 126k on the clock as a work vehicle/ hunting rig. Doesn't look like anything in the steering/suspension has been touched in those miles either. Will see a lot of highway miles and BLM trails. Just ordered everything on the list to whip the steering into shape as well as a set of adjustable shackles, a set of Bilsteins, and replacement sway bar bushings. The plan right now is to go with a 1.5" - 2" PML and some bumpers with winches.
Nice!!! Im glad I did some research after watching your video. It looks like I'll be able to piece it together like in your list. Great video by the way. Exactly what I was looking for as far as understanding what the weak links in the steering and how to address them. Thanks!
This is awesome! You bring a lot to take into account the endless possibilities to what can be done to Xterras. Can you please provide links mentioned on this video as I am guessing one is more expensive than others. Please would also provide the third option per your personal customization. Been playing around with the stock torsion bars as I lifted 2in so far. I’m planning to lift 1in more to make it equally as to the height on the back. I’m thinking to install 32in to 33in with 17in rims in the future and I’m contemplating this set up for now. I think I will do once a month off roading as of now. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Check out 4x4parts.com for the king kong steering kit. They also have individual parts like HD tie rods and idler arm brace. Calmini.com has the total steering kit...plus a few individual parts like the idler arm brace and HD tie rods. Grassroots4x4.com has the upgraded center link as an individual component.
Id trust the engineers at nissan over a random person on the internet...they got it right the first time ;) hahaha just teasing. Enjoy the good alignment and durability of the center link. Let me know if you have questions.
Thanks so much for these videos. They have really helped me in the build process. Question on what bushing you used to press into the grassroots centerlink to help reduce wear on the centerlink itself?
The bushing I got was a hardened oil light flanged sleeve bearing from McMaster Carr. 3/4 inch long, 3/4 inch outer diameter and 5/8 inner diameter to hold a 5/8 bolt. Gotta get a hardened one. The regular bronze bushings aren't strong enough with the steering forces.
Thanks again for all this info. I have most of the frankenstien kit( don't have the grssroots centerlink). Is that enough or the center link is a must do? I'm on a 3" SL and while turning fully I hear a noise. Is it one of the steering components hitting the frame? Thanks for your help
My vote is a heavy duty centerlink is a must. Even with mew stock style replacements...my truck would chew through tires and the tie rod ends would get caught up on frame rails. Maybe if you never go off road you could get by without it though. Hard to know what your noise is specifically though.
I completed the same upgrades on my truck. You're information has been great, thank you! Steering is tight and I got an alignment. Steering feels a bit heavy when turning tho. Do you think I might have tightened the center link bolts a bit too much? I couldn't really find any source for torque specs.
Do you have the grassroots 4x4 center link? Torque spec isn't as clear on the big bolts because they have castle nuts and a cotter pin. I tightened them up as much as I could by hand, and backed it off just enough to line up the cotter pin hole with the castle nut window. I first hand it tighter and the steering was heavy and didn't want to return to center easily. Backing it off a small amount made a big difference.
@@XterraRob Yes, it's the grassroots center link. I think it's the same issue then. I'll try to back it off just slightly and see how it feels. Just wasn't sure if that could cause other problems. Thanks!
Any clue where to get the jam nuts for the tie rod adjusters. The 4x4 listing for adjusters says the nuts are sold separately but can't find it anywhere on the site.
Good question. 4x4parts.com has them as a separate add on when you buy the adjusters. Id send them an email or phone call anf see if you can get just the jamb nuts.
thanks for making these videos. they seem to answer questions just as I am researching them. as a past (R50) Pathfinder owner and now X owner DIY is the way to go. Question, replace or add to rear leaf springs? currant ones are saggy. I've added Timbren SES and AC adjustable lift shackles, but that really doesn't fix weak springs. should I add a leaf or two or replace with a new pack. l'm looking for better load capacity. and if doing the rear should I upgrade the torsion bars as well. not an off roader for fun. the truck just gets me into places I want to go. think overlander/hunter. BTW I have the same year an color x that you do....so far am loving the truck! Did a 10K km trip this past summer. was awesome! no issues. though all highway.
+bush nut I have never been a huge fan of AAL packs because they typically really stiffen up the suspension and can make ride quality harsh...though they definitely improve load capacity. The other thing to consider is lift height. If you max out the adjustable shackle, you are at 2 inches or so. UCAs claim 3" in the front...but there are risks of puahing that limit too much. The AAL from 4x4 parts is a 3 inch lift...so you'll end up with quite a nose down stance. Calmini has a single AAL that claims 1.5 inches of lift that may be an option. I think I would either replace with a stock leaf pack, add the Calmini 1.5 in lift pack and drop your shackle down, or see if you can find a custom suspension shop that can make a custom leaf pack that is stiffer without adding much ride height.
+bush nut I wouldn't bother with changing to stiffer torsion bars. They are just a stiffer spring. Similar to AAL packs that are too stiff, they can make ride quality harsh. AAL may make sense for load capacity or trailering because you are carrying more weight...but unless you have a heavy off road bumper/winch etc on the front to make it much heavier...they aren't really needed. I still run stock torsion bars with my winch and bumper with no issues. Just had to readjust lift height after all the extra weight.
It looks like the grassroots centerlink is still available. The website is still up anyway. There is no contact info to ask if the centerlink can still be purchased. What do you know about it's availability to say it is not an option now? Thanks
Sow how necessary is upgrading these portions? I do a fair amount of easy-medium (no rock crawling but it is rocky as all get out here) trails offroad. I currently have 31's but would love to get a little more clearance with tires down the road. I am waiting on shackles so I can do a PML. Is this something I can just do upgraded tie rod ends down the road and call it good or is this stuff I should really be doing at the same time as the PML?
Tie rods are by far the weakest part of the Xterra and most likely to break and leave you stranded. With no lift and small tires, it isn't a huge deal. If you are going to max out your lift with a PML and 32s, I would still go with HD tie rod adjusters, idler arm brace, and the Bandit 4x4 bushings. Can you get by without it? Sure...until you dont. Insurance policies aren't as sexy as a lift and tires...but preventing a break down is pretty valuable, especially if you do trails alone. Another option woukd be just keep replacement stock tie rod adjusters in the truck and a few wrenches and make sure you know how to change them. Ive broken 2 and had to make sketchy trail repairs. Not recommended.
Idler arm bushings from bandit4x4.com. The McMaster Carr bushings were for the bolted joint between idler arm and grassroots centerlink...and also pitman arm to grass roots center link. Mcmaster carr website... Power Transmission > Bearings > High Load Oil Embedded Flange Sleeve Bearings > 5/8 shaft diameter (5/8 bolt comes with grassroots center link). 3/4 outer diameter (housing size) 3/4 length. Part 2938T44 is what I used.
To "drill out" the IA an PA to 3/4" (I got the same sleeves as you), do you think it would be a good idea to use a reamer, like one of those t-handle reamers in order to get it as center as possible? Or is the material just to hard / difficult that a drill press and actual drill bit is the best option?
I had no issues with a regular 3/4 drill bit. I know others have used hand drills (corded for the extra power) to drill the arms to 5/8 for the center link (no sleeve bearings)...so I think there are a lot of optioms. I think a t handle reamer would not be strong enough...and also they are usually tapered, which won't work well since its a thick chunk of steel. I got a 60 dollar drill press from northern tool. Worked great.
+Micheal Ponce yessir...that one is next in the queue. The last 2 videos were filmed at the same time so I was trying to get that footage edited and posted.
Grassroots4x4 center link uses a 5/8 inch straight bolt...so drilled it to 3/4 inch and used a hardened flange bearing with a 5/8 inch inside,hole for the bolt to go through. Then it has bandit4x4 bushings in the hinge...and the rest is just gusseting. Steel plates welded on it to increase rigidity. That was probably over kill.
Moog is a good brand for stock style parts. If you aren't doing off roading and aren't doing lifts...they will be fine. Once you get into larger tires and lifts...the stock design wont last, regardless of the brand you use. Its best to decide up front what direction you want to go. I replaced stock center links twice...one OEM from nissan and one Moog before I realized it wasnt the quality of the parts giving me trouble...but the quality of the design. I could have saved money if I had just gone straight to a heavy duty steering kit.
@@XterraRob going with 265/75/16 which only going up from 265/70's so not much bigger. Also, only lift I'm may do is turn T.Bars about 1/2-3/4" to level it out. I believe the CV's don't turn in 2 wheel so not worried about angle, plus that ain't much of an angle anyway. Some off roading but nothing major, just normal trail blazing with light mud, some small hills. So do I still have to upgrade to expensive stuff?
The biggest angle is not CVs...but tie rod angles. 265s and a front leveling should be OK alignment wise ... But trails will always be a judgement call as to how much you think you will stress the steering. You don't HAVE to...but if I were going to spend money to replace everything with Moog anyway...id at least upgrade some of the things...or start saving for it if you can't afford a kit right now. It absolutely is the biggest weak point on the Xterra. Especially if its a daily driver and down time for repairs will hurt you. If you were doing no off roading, id say no need for an HD kit with just 265s and a small leveling...but any off road trail in the stock steering system is a gamble. If you can't do a full kit, Id recommend heavy duty tie rod adjusters as top priority, and bandit 4x4 idler arm bushings and an idler arm brace (Calmini or 4x4parts) as a close secondary priority. Light offroading with 265s and a leveling are at the high end of what the stock style center link can do.
I have another old video called "Tire shops cant align lifted vehicles" or something to that effect. Watch that...i talk about tie rod angles and ahow you what I mean.
Xterra Rob I'll check them out. I just got an 03 about 3 months ago. I completely rebuilt the front end with all stock parts. Then added some Falken wildpeak tires. Need shocks next. Not too sure if I'll do a lift or not. I did your air box mod yesterday. Not sure if there are any power gains, but I'm sure it didn't hurt it.
+Vince Ruland cool! Did you get a high flow filter or just a paper filter? Falken wild peaks are pretty decent. If you already rebuilt the front end...may not make sense to go with control arms and do the full suspension lift. Maybe a PML and a body lift if you want.
Xterra Rob I just put in an oem type paper filter. A high flow sounds like it will take full advantage of the mod. Will have to do that. Need to work out my p0420 and p0400 codes before I get anymore into the suspension anyways.
