Ark Fox mate, I just did mine and it's the easiest thing in the world compared to other cars. Couples of clamps to close the Pistons in the calliper and one bolt at the bottom to undo. The calliper flips up and the pads come out easily. You'll find it on RU-vid. It really is easy.
Should you lower the car after sump is off to drain fluid that is at back of box also do you know the exact amount of trans fluid used isn’t it around 6 ltrs cheers
I’m about to do my vz and I just saw from another video that there is no drain plug and same for your ve I wonder if the new ones have a drain plug? Also, how often do you need to change the trans fluid? You said 300,000 ?
300,000km! My SV6 series 2 3.6ltr died at 217,000km. Ended up replacing the LLT coded engine with a LFX. Hopefully I get longer out of it then the 2011 pus bucket. Before anyone says boo about anything, my car is and has always been serviced every 15,000, always had set kilometre servicing done, never thrashed... Anyway, thanks for the video mate, it will come in handy in another 60,000.
Brad Bater that's a pretty bold statement and I figure it is meant to get me rarked up. Lol You are entitled to your opinion on all things vehicular. I am a V8 man. I own a 73 HQ Belmont Ute with a supercharged 308, 5 on the floor and a 9 inch in the back. I've spent over 45k on the old bitch and I like to have a little bit of money to survive on. The SV6 wagon is good on fuel and has not done me wrong other than that engine failure. Other than that, she's a good girl. I'll likely hold on to her for the long haul, as commodores will be made by Germans soon enough. But thanks for the comment mate.
Paul Wild wrong. The commodore will be Chinese and will drive through the front wheels in 2017. Im just saying the vz and ve v6s were prettyy shit compared to ecotecs and even the good old vn v6. Ve its self is a pretty good car i have a cammed ssv
Brad Bater Opel is making commodores as far as I have read thus far. Opel is German. Perhaps like most things these days, Opel probably has it's vehicles made in China. I*t is a fucking joke. I just read that the new "commodore" will be front wheel drive. What an insult to the name hey. Damn
Thanks for the video instructions. I have 10HBA auto transmission. When I ran scanner I get the error code: P0864-00 (Invalid Signal from TCM). When I inspected the transmission I can hear noise inside, something like engaging and disengaging every second or so. When I moved the car, I noticed the car feeling like it was auto switching from drive to park then to drive snd so on. On the cluster I can see when I change to any other gear the icon is displaying the gear I selected then keeps jumping to park and back to the gear selected. I can't seem to find anything with similar issues on any auto transmission models. Just trying to workout what could be causing this before i get it towed to someone. Cheers
I've got nothing useful for you apart from suggesting you check out the Commodore forums and see if you have any luck there. Sounds like the kind of problem where you want the car moving as little as possible before it's fixed. Best of luck to you.
Hey since only partial fluid is drain, i was thinking drain swap filter. And soon after a few thousand ks drain oil and refill again the get a bit cleaner. Have you tried this.
Great video mate, but at best you are only changing around 30% of your systems total volume. Wherever possible, sure, I'll do it myself, but these days, automatic transmissions go to a reputable workshop who can flush the entire system: torque converter and all. By the way, perhaps by now you have had the bump stops changed on your strut towers?... they are stuffed ( notice the gap between the rubber and the top of the tower ). All the best mate.
The “bump stops” or strut caps are fine, I just had both of my front struts replaced entirely and they look exactly the same as his. Also, flushing your transmission isn’t a great idea. Changing 1/3rd of your fluid is fine as the good stuff will mix in with the old stuff and still improve the overall quality. If the old stuff is darker than this then changing the fluid AT ALL is a bad idea and you’ll create slippage as you’ll find there is debris in that fluid that is giving the transmission the friction it needs to still function. Mind you once your fluid is burnt, you’re already on borrowed time anyway but it’s one of those things where it’s stuffed but fixing it will make it worse. If that makes sense.
Also, all automatic transmissions sheer some amount of metal. When you flush your transmission you’re just pushing that debris around and you’ll jam channels then bam, your transmission is totally fucked.
should be "warm" but doesn't have to be, some cars have cold/hot levels others not. best bet is to look at the fluid amount it's meant to have and go with that, keep in mind that the torque converter holds a good amount of fluid as well and if you don't drain that then you need to account for it
There is a much easier way! I could tell you but then I’d have to kill us both for knowing too much! 😂😂 This method shown in the video avoids accounting for the litres of dirty old trans fluid inside the torque converter and the trans oil lines & the trans oil cooler. The easier / better way requires clear plastic hose with internal diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the flared end of the trans fluid line. Also one with the internal diameter just small enough to fit over the nipple where you disconnect the trans line from oil cooler back to transmission. Also you need 2 clean 2 gallon buckets. And your new trans fluid. In essence you full one bucket with new trans fluid. You disconnect one trans line from the oil cooler at the transmission. Put chocks / bricks under the wheels because you don’t want the car able to move once in gear at idle with park brake on. You connect the new fluid bucket to the nipple going into the trans. You connect the second clear hose to the flared end on the disconnected trans oil line and put other end in the empty bucket. Put your 2 bottles of new fluid in the first clean bucket. You then make 100% sure the car is in Park with handbrake on & you get a second person to sit in drivers seat and press hard on the foot pedal brake & not touch the accelerator at all. They have to stay there and do nothing but press on the brake until your finished and tell them turn off the engine. You start up the engine and select drive while in idle with hand brake on and foot brake depressed and held. The car will rock slightly against the bricks / wheel chicks and sit there. You watch underneath the two clear hoses. The trans fluid pump will draw new clean fluid from the bucket up into the trans, the other clear hose will drain the old contaminated oil coming from the trans and oil cooler and torque converter into the clean bucket. You keep watching the contaminated hose until it starts putting new oil into the bucket of contaminated oil & the new oil bucket drains as its pumped into the trans. At that point where new fluid has gone through the system, and replaced the contaminated fluid in the whole system, you turn off the engine and put car back in Park. Then you get under, uncouple the two clear hoses and reconnect the trans oil line to the transmission nipple. All fluid now changed in the whole system - not just half of it that is then contaminated with all the old oil that was left in torque converter and oil lines and oil cooler. At that point you are done UNLESS you feel that you need to change the pan filter. If you do need to change it, you can them follow the example here, drop the pan collecting your new fluid - in the clean fluid bucket. Change pan filter, re do the two hose trick putting both lines this time into the clean oil bucket and repeat the engine idle / in gear truck to suck that new fluid back up into the system until the bucket goes back to the level it was where you started. Check levels if you can with dipstick. The 2007 VE Adventra which has the same engine & transmission, doesn’t have a dip stick for the trans go figure. Check the manual for the volume it should take. Your 2 gallon bucket holds 9 litres, you only put 2 x 4 litre bottles in it. The used oil bucket should tell you how much you drained out and that should equal what the manual says if it was full on your dispstick when you started. Just fill until the new oil bucket is down to the same quantity from its 8 litres as you drained out (6litres specified in manual) so until there’s only 2 litres left in the new oil bucket. The crucial thing from a safety standpoint is that no one gets under the vehicle while it’s on jack stands, running in gear at idle with hand brake on and foot brake pedal depressed. Also that the peon helper doesn’t do anything stupid like touch the accelerator while it’s in drive gear idling to allow the trans fluid pump to suck up new fluid and pump out the contaminated fluid. Also no one in front of the car while it’s in gear idling with both brakes on. It’s an easy way to do a complete fluid flush rather than a 50% change. It saves you needing to install a drain plug into the trans sump to drain fluid.
@@ianmoone2359you shouldn’t flush your transmission, all transmissions sheer metal and that debris is all through the system, the magnet doesn’t catch it all. When you do a flush you’re pushing all the debris inside the system around and you can jam channels and totally fuck your transmission up. Changing 1/3rd of the fluid and the filter is ideal as it’ll mix in with the old stuff and if you’re looking to do another 1/3rd then change the fluid again in a shorter interval then the most recent change. However, if your fluid is burnt then your system is already fucked and you shouldn’t change your fluid at all as the debris floating around in the fluid, which is also thicker than the fresh stuff, is likely the only reason your system isn’t slipping. The moment you drain that out and put new stuff in you’re going to start slipping and yeah, fucked. At that point you’re already on borrowed time anyway but it’s one of those things where if it’s not broken then don’t fix it but expect a whole system replacement not far down the line.
DIDN'T SEE YOU INSTALL THE NEW SEAL ON THE NECK OF THE FILTER...THINK IT IS PUT IN USING THE BUTT,,,HANDLE OF A SCREW DRIVER..PLACE THE SEAL IN THE BODY OF THE TRANSMISSION....USING THE OLD SEAL ISN'T IDEAL...HOPE IT HELPS
It was an RTK-4 filter, so it’s a 4L60E. Why are you asking? If you’re just looking to change your fluid and filter the only difference will be the filter you want to replace.
