In this video I share my opinion on whether or not you should change your transmission filter as part of routine maintenance. It always sparks a good discussion!
Every single metal-on-metal surface or clutch/band assembly constantly produces microscopic pieces which break down with every single revolution of the gears. Those pieces eventually clump together and form varnishes due to the heat. That varnish clogs the filter, and reduces the line-pressure of the transmission slowly over time. I still believe in the old rule-of-thumb. Change the fluid and filter once at 30,000 miles to remove the initial break-in wear, then change the fluid and filter every 60,000 miles thereafter. The amount you're spending on a filter and fluid is far cheaper than having to buy a new transmission because it was not maintained.
@@PetesGarageandperformance anyone who works on transmissions for a living should know that it is an important part of vehicle maintenance. Not as often as oil but almost every vehicle has it in there maintenance schedule. Every 30-50k miles transmission fluid change and filter change is to be done. You are making videos on something saying you don’t need to do it when every car manufacturer in the world says it is routine Maintenance and SHOULD be done at a certain mileage..
That filter is to the cooler. If you don't change it, you will overheat the transmission eventually. In fact I came across a garage that apparently thinks the way you do. The result was the cvt overheating and going into safe mode because they wouldn't change the filter. I started doing my own cvt fluid changes after that. After I had that filter changed, no more overheating cvt. Why does that filter need replacing? The fluid breaks down from the engine heat and hence why the fluid has to be changed. Also the transmission has wear just like the engine does. The older the fluid the more wear that occurs. That filter is there to filter out small metal particles and to keep them from clogging up the transmission cooler. The filter can only hold so much and must be replaced or else the fluid flowing through there gets restricted. There are also one or two magnets in the transmission pan that need to be cleaned of the metal particles when the fluid is changed.
Change those transmission filters between 60k to 90k depending on how hard you drive, weight you haul or trailer towing. Clean the trans oil pan. I have seen trans filters plug up & damage transmission. Transmissions are very, very expensive to replace & usually not as good as the original. The transmission is the most expensive part of your vehicle & will leave you stranded needing a tow, costing you over $5000, so if you want to be sure it last forever, install a transmission cooler & change the filter. Heat is what destroys 90+% of transmissions. Dirty filter will starve fluid pressure causing clutches to slip & destroy the transmission.
@@Pwn3540 I said "install a transmission cooler", not replace often. Most vehicles, especially ones loaded or pulling trailer or driven in hot weather, need an extra transmission cooler. Ask any good transmission rebuilder and they will tell you that heat is what destroys 90+% of transmissions. Modern full synthetic trans fluids don't wear out, they just get contaminated with clutch material that will clog your filter & destroy your transmission.
@@michaelhaiducek2648how do you install a transmission cooler tho if there aren’t company’s that make a kit for your car? Also would it not block a good chunk of your radiator?
I came across due to inquisition regarding the necessity to change AT filter. 2009 focus has no drain bolt so ATF goes everywhere when pan is dropped. This is the sole reason I am wanting to avoid changing the filter, otherwise I would not care whatsoever. I will tap into the return line and drain as I fill 1 gallon at a time. I also wondered what would contaminate the filter requiring a replacement. Great video. Thank you!
Pete, I completely agree with your logic. In my case, changing the filter in my C4's automatic is what actually killed it. My fault 100%. I didn't remove the old O ring before installing the new filter. I think I damaged it while trying to dig it out. That allowed air to be sucked into the trans fluid. After doing a 1/4 mile run, the trans started slipping real bad. The first thing I did was pull the dip stick. The trans fluid was loaded with little air bubbles. After letting it sit for an hour, the trans started working normally again. But, the damage was done. Under certain high throttle operations, the trans would slip and not upshift. In hindsight, I should have never messed with the original filter. Now, in my 96 Impala SS and my 2003 C5 Vette, I leave the trans filters alone. The trans in my Impala made it to 270,000 miles before I had it replaced.
thanks for sharing. The dealer tech put the rebuild flush amount of oil back into the transmission after a pan drop. I had several EXTRA quarts and also had tons of air bubbles and burnt smell. I did a trans flush after that and they confirmed what I had seen at the dip stick - several extra quarts of oil from the Dealer pan drop, filter change! My transmission failed soon after the flush but it was definitely caused by the dealer tech error. Since the transmission had the rated 275K miles on it and I was just trying to extend the life of the transmission I didn't pursue the dealer error. But your story confirms that as you say, "the damage was already done." I got a rebuilt transmission - for a few thousand dollars. They put in new cooler lines also though at my request. I'm now 10K miles later and so figuring out if I should change out the filter myself...or do a flush before the fluid gets burnt without changing the filter at first...hmm.
I appreciate your advice. Makes complete sense. You have relieved my worry about my 4L30e transmission with over 165K. I never replaced the transmission filter and I am never intending to have the filter replaced. My only routine maintenance is to periodically partially drain and fill with new ATF. * I am worried about clutches wearing out and I suppose a new filter is not gonna gonna effect the future wear.
If it shifts ok now. There probably isn’t anything to worry about. If the clutches wear out, it was probably just time. No filter change is going to affect the wear on the clutches.
@@PetesGarageandperformance I'm no transmission expert. But wouldn't the tranny fluid filter clean the dirty old tranny fluid like how an engine oil filter cleans the contaminate of the engine oil??? I guess it is a fallacy and misconception....that is not how tranny fluid filter works right?
Thanks for the thought provoking points! I went to the Toyota dealership today and I asked for a trans filter and the guy said there’s no need to change it because it’s a mesh screen.. that part didn’t make sense to me but I took his advice anyways and your video helped clarify my questions. Between you and the Toyota guy you saved me a lot of extra time and money. Thanks man!
@C Diddy Since you own a Toyota, please be sure to watch these videos and make your own assessment. The guy's a Toyota Master Technician, worked at a dealership for 10yrs, recently cut ties and opened his own independent shop. I'm pretty confident his videos will provide answers/knowledge you're desperately seeking... just hope you haven't already damaged the transmission. dBronco ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TevK-u3vkx4.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eRxSu4-4ojo.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OJZLMIl6XPo.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TJhFAwFv-O0.html (proof the guy is a mechanic)
With Toyotas sealed tranny you only drain a small amount every tranny change. That's how they are designed. So it blends new with old. There is still quite a bit in there. If you were to do a complete drain with tranny out you may run into issues. A tranny with mileage on it needs particles in the fluid as they wear. No particles = slipping... That's why if you have 150,000 miles on it - your better off leaving it & expect it to need tranny at 200-250,000 miles or sooner. Change it every 30,000 miles (like 4 quarts & do the overflow drain) you may get 400-600,000 miles or more out of that tranny. Do not trust dealership. They want tranny to go bad
Changing the transmission filter can cost over $300 in labor, parts, and new ATF. If you change the filter and fluid yourself, it's a more cost effective measure. Changing the Transmission Filter is cost effective insurance compared to paying a mechanic to rebuild or replace a spent transmission. On my 2006 Siena and my daughter's 2002 Camry, I have to unscrew the left engine/transmission mount and rock the engine upward, with a bottle jack, to access the transmission drain pan screws to get to the transmission filter. It's not a quickie job for a mechanic so, to avoid paying for the labor involved, I do it myself.
The filters get clogged from clutch material and the fibers break down over time unless the filter is a metal mesh. . It felt the same with fluid change only. After the filter change, transmission felt smoother.
Ok Horses you absolutely right and right, and ChrisFix is also absolutely right because I saw ChrisFix on his video was breaking apart the previous transmission filter and show us when transmission fluid you suppose also to the transmission filter, and us a lot of metals inside of the previous transmission filter, thanks to you Horses and thankfully to ChrisFix, and yes transmission filter supposes to change
@@PetesGarageandperformance bro I love your video I hope you can get back to me and respond. I have 1990 corvette with the 700r4 and the first gear and second gear works but when it want to shift to 3rd it slips and stays in second gear. All my coworkers tell me put a new filter and change the fluid ,put a new filter and change the fluid,if I do that is it really gonna change anything?
On old but well functioning transmissions the pan usually has a coating of viscous dark material and so does the filter. It seems probable that this is from the clutch and band coatings due to normal wear. Is it possible that new fluid with additives at full strength can resuspend some of the finer particles and circulate them? Then cleaning the pan and a metal screen type filter in solvent seems likely to remove most of it and lessen the wear, since these are the lowest points.
Depends on the vehicle. Some cars are easy and cheap. Like my Infiniti G35, the filter is right underneath the drain pan and cost about $10. So if you have high miles and your removing the drain pan, might as well change it while your at it. Others might not be necessary unless your rebuilding due to the filters location.
If you're already need to remove the transmission pan like to replace a damaged pan or leaking gasket, otherwise you just created a bunch of additional labor for yourself as now you need to replace a gasket and remove and retorque a couple dozen additional bolts that you otherwise didn't need to touch.
The biggest issue with changing trans filter is accessibility. Some transmissions must be removed and split open to even get to the filter. Not worth it in my opinion.
@@edocsil1635 most newer FWD GM and Ford transmissions have “lifetime” filters that are deep inside the transmission and are only replaced when rebuilding the transmission.
Well as someone that has his truck in the shop at the moment because of a plugged-up filter, and though I do agree with you that if your filter is plugged up that there is a worse problem changing it once a year may help delay the inevitable.
Im at nearly 475k miles on my 98 Tacoma with original automatic transmission and have never changed filter. Still running good, although the trans pan gasket has gone bad for the 4th time and needs replacing again.
Draining and then re-adding fluids in mine for preventative maintenance. So figured it would be best change the filter anyway since opening the pan and draining fluid. Going back with Doorman pan with a drain plug. 05 5.4 f150 automatic. Which filter do you recommend? Wix or Motorcraft?
I never replaced my transmission oil & still working good with 300k f150 lariat truck I only change motor oil cabin filter air filter or you think if I change the transmission oil it will broken what you recommend ? Thanks for your videos peters garage
I do agree you probably don't have to change it near as often as other filters, I'd think after two fluid changes you should definitely replace it. They say fluid lasts 60k miles yet I don't think I've gone over 10k on a fluid flush and it's already discolored to the point I need to change it again. ATF may not be subject to fuels and the like but it still gets hot specially in the summer and breaks down and the more it breaks down, the ability to dissipate heat and lubricate lessens and thus more wear on the parts.
The filter filters the shavings. If there a certain amount of shavings in the filter, it will hinder the flow of the fluid. So if you're changing the fluid, why NOT change the filter as well. It makes absolutely no sense to have clean fluid flowing through a filter saturated with blackened fluid.
I own a 2013 MKX AWD with 200,000 miles and we just had transmission fluid changed for the 3rd time leaving the factory filter untouched, 1st change was 150,000 miles so I believe you are 100% correct. Now we purchased this MKX @ 80,000 miles and I'm a bit of a maintenance person, but the mechanic who did the change also agrees with you. Also had an issue with the PTU on the same car so to stop the vibration we had a new PTU installed but this time I used High temp fluid, are there parts available to rebuild the factory PTU? Thank You Randy
The transmission is still metal on metal contact, it doesnt have to be a catastrophic amount of metal that comes off. You still have to change the filter, since you only need to change your transmission fluid every ~ 60k miles, its not that big of an issue to spend $70 on a new filter. If there was a catastrophic failure, the filter is as reduntant as the bolts holding the fluid pan. youll need 2k for a new trans, however if you dont change your filter and those metal pieces make their way back into the transmission, that could potentially be the CAUSE of the catastrophic failure. Again, you dont change your transmission fluid that often as engine oil because theres no need, so it shouldnt be a point of saving money since the spacing between when you do it is fairly large
I agree that if you are into the transmission that you should change the filter. But you don’t need to drop the pan on most transmissions to change the fluid. They either have a drain or you can use a fluid exchange machine using the cooler lines (my prefers method). When I worked at the dealership we had two options: just a fluid flush with the machine, or drop the pan to change the filter and then do a machine flush. It usually would cost an extra $80-$100 to do the pan drop and filter. They don’t put a filter on manual transmissions or differentials. All they use is a magnet to catch debris. A filter is used on automatics because they have to keep the pump, valve body, cooler, and piston seals clear of metal debris. However, if there is more than the “normal” amount of debris that the filter is designed to handle, the transmission needs an overhaul that changing just the filter won’t fix.
Hey you seem pretty knowledgeable and I have a question my transmission seems to be going out the other day was making a whining noise on the freeway halfway home it got stuck in third gear now when I started up it drives for about 1 minute and then it stops driving all I get is the engine revving won't go into reverse unless I just started the car should I change the filter or just get the transmission replaced??
They asking me 350$ to change transmission filter and flush transmission fluid... In toyota camry le 2016... Thank you man you just saved some money for me... God bless you
It makes sense to change it you are planning on keeping the car. There will always be wear in moving parts. A transmission change in the future is way more expensive than a simple filter and fluid swap that costs less than $150 in parts every 3-5 years.
Never flush it. It moves the gunk around to places it shouldn’t be. Yes you should replace the transmission FLUID. I suppose this guy is just saying the transmission FILTER doesn’t need to be changed.
I totally agree with you. Most transmission filter will only filter to maybe 100-200 microns size particles. Most clutch wear particles are smaller than that & go right through the filter. I dissected a transmission filter on our '07 BMW X3 with the French made GM transmission, running Dexron VI fluid, and had 132k miles on it. The filter almost looked new. I had to check the date code molded on it to see that it was the original filter. Also, the magnets pick up most of the steel particles, the clutch particles will eventually settle out & adhere to the pan vis surface tension. That's why you have to wipe them clean. So, IMO, a "drain & fill" will do the trick. I do it about every 10-15k miles which replaces about 40% of the fluid. Thanks for you video.
Same here i had my 4l60e rebuilt and beefed up. I put her into another astro van at 10,000 miles.added deep Pan.replaced deep type filter from shallow one.i feel same highway Miles replaced fuild about 3 times in 70,000 miles.no issues. Started shifting little harder so i just took off pan. Cleaned. And replaced ac delco filter. Shift s nice corvette servo. Shift kit also.i will cut open filter to inspect. 3 and 4 shift flawlessly. When new bam into 4th.2 nd feels like normal. Little firmness. So i agree im curious to inspect.thanks for view.
Totally a great and valid point I've been working on car since I was 5 years old am now 44 years old and I will tell you this much transmission filters hardly ever need to be changed unless like you said it is a catastrophic failure they also have to remember that transmission fluid also has a detergent in it which allows it to stay clean so no you do not need to change your transmission filter you may need to change the fluid at some point three to five years maybe but you don't have to change the filter unless something totally goes wrong like metal shavings or something thank you for the good point
There will always be a normal amount of clutch material wear. The filter makes sure that this doesn’t get into the pump, valve body, cooler, etc. There is enough surface area in the filter media to accommodate this “normal” amount of clutch material. If there is more material/debris than the “normal” amount, you would have shifting problems. Then it would need to be rebuilt anyway.
Would you change one that’s been sitting for 16 years without having any fluid circulated through it? Just bout a project truck and yes it’s a 5 speed manual and wondering if I should due to it sitting for so long
The reason why you change the transmission filters is because of the clutch material and other things that are wearing out and wearing in in the transmission
If after4 changing the fluid the new stuff turns dark should you change it again? It looks dark in a container then when you out it on a white background it looks clear. I'm guessing I should do it again to remove more of the old containments because the old fluid was pretty nasty.
Hey Pete I do agree with what your saying about filter in transmission. Ive got the 3.6 and the auto has no drive. After dropping the pan I can clearly see its never been opened. The filter itself was holding the finest and the kitty litter sized pieces and smaller filings collected on the magnet. In seeing that i could confidently say shes seen better days and a refit is called for. Plus a new filter.
@ Pete's Garage 2002 chevy 2500hd 4l80e. Has 83,000 miles on since new. Transmission was serviced with new fluid and I believe a new filter @ 50k. I have a drain plug in the pan on this model. Would you personally Pete, pull the plug and drain or drop the pan and install new filter/fluid? Edit: gears just roll in smooth and shifts no problems...
96 Camaro here. I was having a lot of issues when I would shift into R the car wouldn’t wanna go and the RPMs would go up but the car wouldn’t go anywhere fast.. lot of delay. Well, I changed out the filter, gasket, and fluid for the first time ever in my car 221,000 miles… the car shifts great now.. probably should have done it a long time ago. I think I’m just lucky. Probably wouldn’t go crazy with it but wouldn’t go past every 60k miles without doing it.
The only reason the filter is replaced is that you had to lower the pan to get the fluid out and so if the pan is already off why not just replace the filter anyhow. If, however, you have a drain on the pan and the transmission is working correctly, just change the fluid. If you are really worried about the fluid quality, then replace the fluid in the pan via the drain more often. I installed a drain in my pan by using a roofing sheet-metal screw. It takes a little while to drain the fluid through the rather small hole but it seals as it should. The screw cost about a nickle.
No dont act like you know it all. Explain honda transmissions.... They have an internal filter because people believe that this filter will never clog. Wrong. Many customers drive their cars for 15 and then go into limp mode. Why??? Because the filter gets clogged. Clutch material builds. And makes a difference. They only have a drain plug. Get out of here with this nonsense. Change it. Why risk it. Except with honda because you have to take apart the whole transmission.
@@johnnysolano1025 I won't say they will never clog. Honda transmissions do have an external filter as an internal. The internal filter you have to pull the transmission. The external is usually in front of the radiator. Also this video is just garbage.
I agree that a dirty filter equates to a damaged transmission. However, consider this situation: The transmission appears to have no issues, except for a soft humming noise when you let go off the throttle. To find out there are a lot of shavings in the drain plug. Probably a torque converter running a little dry. If one replaces the filter and recycle ALL oil, one should get 20K more out of that transmission...
On my Ford Focus 2008 it was easy and cheap to change the filter when I change the oil and did it regardless without thinking why I need to change it. When I got my Ford Escape 2015 it a sealed unit so I just change the oil now. Did I need to change the filter on the Focus is a good question.
The reason why the filter needs to be replaced is because all the parts will very slowly wear over time creating very small particles of metal and the filter catches all those particles over time, catastrophic failure is different and does not parts are not being worn out even with good oil in them.
Have you ever opened up a transmission filter with over 100,000 miles on it and inspected the filter media? I have several times and there was virtually nothing on the filter media itself. The filter can catch any larger metal particles from when the car was new and the transmission was going through the break-in process but the very small metal particles will go right through the trans filter (it's not like a motor oil filter). Many trans filters are nothing more than a metal mesh/screen. Worn clutch particulates also do not get caught by the filter but instead get suspended in the trans fluid itself which is why it's a good idea to change the trans fluid regularly and in most cases and shorter intervals than the manufacturer suggests. In many newer cars, the trans filter is no longer even accessible but instead built in to the trans internally and on accessible by completely disassembling the transmission because the filter is only meant to be changed once the trans itself needs rebuilding.
This is so interesting video Pete. I changed the trans fluid a year ago(it had never been changed), when I bought my car (128i E82 84k miles) because I did feel some vibration in specific RPM and gears. The dealership told me the problem is the transmission and we should start from changing fluid. They told me that the drained fluid was quite bad and there were some metal debris but after changing fluid my car turned to drivable. But what I got shocked was the dealership doesn’t exchange the filter and pan, they just drain previous oil and refill. So, I was thinking that I should exchange the filter, pan, obviously fluid again because there are still highly likely some metal debris in transmission. However, based on your opinion, do you think I should not or don’t have to re-change fluid and etc? I’ve only drive 6k miles after I exchanged. @Pete’s Garage
Just watched as I was going to do both filter and fluid but may just do fluid now. I have an 06 Crown Vic Police and the filter was replaced at 185k. It has now 215k. My plan now is to chance just the oil (Has a drain plug) and drive it for a day and change it again since I don't have the fluid exchange machine. I was planning on using the recommended Ford Mercon V fluid. Do you think this is sufficient. I'm taking it on a 1000 mile trip this Summer so it'll be hot and the A/C will be on etc.
Thanks for the advice Pete. I was about to buy a transmission filter for my 2000 Frontier CC truck from O'Rileys. Guess all I need is some OEM Nissan transmission oil and a copper crush seal.
I was really having thoughts about this for weeks!.. Must I chage or not.. After watching your video, surely I have decided to NOT change the transmission filter. Thank you for this video, it really helped me.. Greetings from Cyprus.
I'm wondering for my ford escape they built the filter inside the transmission not the pan so you have to actually take the transmission apart to access it
Interesting! My 2008 HHR user manual footnote 'h' says "Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: (1) in heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90F (32C) or higher. (2) in hilly or mountainous terrain (3) when doing frequent trailer towing (4) uses such as found in taxi, police, or deliver service. It also qualifies this maintenance task as a 50k, 100k, and 150k "severe service only" task.
I have never changed the transmission filter on my Mercedes 2000 model c class .I only add trasmission fluid and it is working fine .Thank you for your logic 👍🏻
So my transmission pan is pretty rusted I was told when I went to get a a oil change. so you think that would be a reason to change the filter cause I just bought a new pan and filter. Or you advise takin the filter back? Pleas respond
I have a GM 6 speed auto transmission that's a sealed unit with no dipstick. I replaced my filter as it was the first transmission service. Fluid looked dark. The old filter was average inside considering the fluid was about 6 years old. The pan gasket was in good condition as well. I believe if you plan on doing regular fluid drain and refills (every 30,000 miles), you can keep the old filter and gasket. Just replace the filter and gasket if its the first initial transmission service (100,000 miles or 6 years)
The factory gasket on the 6L series transmissions is reusable and a new one is kind of expensive. Those aftermarket rubberized cork replacement gaskets are junk compared to the factory gasket.
Somehow transmission fluid are known to turn black and dirty. If you don't change the fluid soon enough the filters will be very dirty and prevent fluid to past through the transmission.
I’ve been working on cars for many years. I found out that when you change your air filter if you clean your mass airflow sensor and let it dry for about an hour you see your fuel economy improve I have serviced my transmission every 50,000 miles with the filter change every hundred thousand miles with a flush then a filter change I have 300,000 miles on my transmission with no slippage. I also do 50,000 miles on all my front and rear differentials of my vehicles, just a suggestion
Breakin time and wear depending on driving habits. Can cause it might not get clogged but over time can slow down the flow and I would think it'd put more stress on the pump as well restricted flow. CVT I have I've changed the paper filter big difference in color no longer black or dark clear. But I haven't taken the time to change the metal one but I've been looking into cleaning the metal screen filter as I heard you can. Ty for this informative video. 👍🏽
Great video. What do you think about yearly drain and fill cycles? I know is not ideal, but you are renewing 30% every single year ... and is easy. Thanks! Editing for adding: To your point, I couldn't agree more. If filter would really need to be changed, they would have invented a more easy to access design. Regards, Nacho.
Periodic drain and fills. Swear by it and have had cars and trucks both run 400k without a hitch. Even if pan removal is a pita I’ve pumped out and pumped back in exact amounts. Wala fresh fluid !
I tend to agree on principle but question tho...shouldnt the loose clutch material and crud be cleaned out of the bottom of the pan every 80-100k miles or so? Just to keep the fresh fluid from getting dirty all over again? Or should we not bother doing that? Filter is probably fine but if the pans already off might as well put a new $20 filter on it. Or should i not bother dropping the pan to clean the gunk at all? In the past i would do that every 80k or so.
Pete, thanks for this; traditionally I've just replaced filters like you said - now I'm rethinking it! What I wish manufacturers would do is incorporate an external filter we could change that filtered better than the internal filter. It would give an opportunity to inspect the transmission fluid. Ideally, a cartridge type filter.
Hates doing basic transmission maintenance. Later calls the trans a POS when it fails early. Change fluid and filter where applicable when mileage due. Pan drop only - NO flushing. This guys video is for clicks only. Do not follow his advice.
@@Joedoriamusic some automatic tranaxles Have an internal filter you can’t get to unless you disassembled the case ,but I always change the filter if it’s under the pan
Thanks Pete. Your perspective certainly matches what other professionals have told me, based on their experience. The transmission ‘filter’ should be called a transmission SCREEN, and then people might realize that it’s there to catch the big chunks. It’s better to to completely flush the fluid then to only replace portions of it at small intervals. Now, blow their mins and remind them that Honda doesn’t even use transmission ‘filters’…
good video and very valid points, however most people can`t just buy a pan gasket on its own. the trans filter service kits come with a filter anyway. my advise is to always do a regular trans service - when trans has done under 200,000km, to do every 50,000km, then when trans has done over 200,000km to service every 25,000km....this will give you max life and reliability from your trans...the biggest point of removing the trans pan is to clean the magnet ( and good idea to flush the switch plates ), so the fine metallic wear debris stays away from your solenoids and sensors....i`d recommend adding magnets as well ( once a magnet is covered in the fine debris it cant hold/catch more ) we often add neodymium magnets to trans pan.... and finally bypass the coolant heat exchanger/trans cooler to eliminate chance of "milkshake" or coolant entering trans. good stuff cheers
Really great video, I was so confused when my Toyota dealership told me they do not change the filter. What do you think is better, drain and fill, or flush? I drive a 2011 Scion tC. Thanks!
I always recommend hooking an exchange machine to the cooler line. This will get the fluid that was in the torque converter exchanged also. If you just drain and fill, you don’t get the fluid out of the converter.
@@PetesGarageandperformance All transmissionjms are not the same, and they require different service intervals and procedures. Example: Per the FOMOCO Shop Manual, The 4R70W Transmission requires a Filter Change at every 30,000 miles. When I bought the car at 51,000 miles, the transmission had not been serviced, and the filter had never been changed. I drained the trans pan and the Torque Converter, and added new MERCON V fluid. I installed a new Motorcraft filter and a B&M Shift Improver Kit, a B&M 13,000-lb. Trans Cooler, and a B&M Drain Plug Kit. Since trans upgrades, fluid is changed at 30,000-mile intervals. Transmission functions flawlessly at 170,000 miles. Any argument against doing the required filter changes is misinformed, at best. www.mercuryforum.com/forum/grand-marquis-14/1995-grand-marquis-restoration-8937/
since its a closed system, routinely change the trans fluid every once a year (approx 20k km, whichever came sooner) will keep the trans in good shape. so just like you said, if the trans filter is clogged, then it surely means the owner rarely change the fluid -> problems in the trans..
Thank you so much for this video. I have been searching this morning contemplating if I need to change the filter on my 2006 4.0 v6 tacoma and my 1995 2.4 4 cyl tacoma. It seems to me all I need to do is drain and re fill a couple of times if I am going to do it myself and that is all it needs ever. Would you say that is correct?
You would have a symptom like slipping when shifting into one or more gears. Changing the filter and cleaning the magnet isn’t going to fix that. The material that’s stuck to the magnet had to have come from parts that need replaced, like clutches or bearings.
Hey I have a question, I have a new/ used transmission in my truck! I Burt out third/ 4th gear on the old transmission, I changed the lines and the external cooler! If there’s any trash in my radiator line, would that have a bed affect on my transmission, even tho I change almost everything, or do I need to change my radiator as well!
Pete's right. This is not an oil filter that filters down to at least 20 microns. Unless you're installing a Magefine filter or something similar to the transmission hose line, the fluid is literally passing through mesh or sponge, both of which are designed to catch shavings and the like.
I'd say you're right in general ,though I'd stretch the oem cycle from 1:3 so potential shavings would not factor performance if given. You have far than a stilled mind your stated claim is proof along your altruism.
Depends on the transmission and the filter. Once I saw the filter in my wife's QX4 (aka Pathfinder) was just a "rock catcher" screen, I knew it wasn't worth replacing. Other transmissions have real filters. Do you think that the material in a real filter is not going to fail in 20 years/200k miles (which is less than the last two cars we had, bought new)?
I WISH THAT SOMEONE LIKE YOU LIVED AROUND THIS AREA , SOMEONE THAT CAN BE TRUSTED WITH TELLING THE TRUTH ABOUT WHAT IS WRONG AND NOT MAKE THEM PAY MORE THAN THEY SHOULD PAY, YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?
So I’m still trying to get a straight answer, I have a 2001 montero with 200000 miles that I bought at 113000 miles. I have never changed the fluid or filter since I was warned about a slipping clutch. I have not done any off-roading and the vehicle has been driving pretty gentle. The fluid on the dipstick still looks red and smells ok. Any need to worry about this?
It depends on the vehicle, how many miles it has, and how long you plan on keeping it, because if it's an older vehicle you plan to keep for awhile, then yes, a filter and fluid change will come into the picture at some point, simply because if you change the fluid and not the filter, the old filter will dirty up the new fluid faster.
I changed the transmission filters and oil in every vehicle I owned except for 1. It was a Ford F-150. Transmission failed at 81,000 miles on the F-150. Other vehicles included Dodge Durango Ford Explorer 3 each Dodge Ram 1500's Dodge Charger R/T I only changed the oil and filters in the 3 Dodge Ram 1500's The other vehicles were done at the dealership. Could be just coincidence but the only vehicle that I had transmission problems with is the one I never changed the oil or filters in the transmission. Note: My son had a dodge Ram 1500 and never changed the filters nor the oil in his transmission and his transmission went out as well. Not sure how many miles he had on it though. His truck was 2 years younger than one of my Dodge 1500 truck. I know have a Dodge Ram 2500 with the 6.4 liter HEMI It is at 60,000 miles and many may think this is too soon to change the oil and filter I don't. It's an easy job and only cost $100 for the fluid and filters. I tow a camper with my new truck and don't want to have trouble on a long camping trip and that is why I am changing the oil and filters. I know many will disagree but this is how I roll !
@@PetesGarageandperformance I doubt it as well I think just a coincidence. The transmission place rebuilt it then it left me on the side the road twice. He accused me of hot rodding the truck and said that it would be the last time he would work on it. I got a lawyer and they really looked at it better and they had something in the transmission installed backwards. A ring perhaps. It was a long time ago. But that is when I swapped from Ford to Dodge and have never had any trouble with a vehicle again. I have a Ram 2500 and the wife drives a Durango. Zero problems thus far.It may not make a difference to change the filters but it does give me peace of mind and I like doing it as well. I take pride in keeping my vehicles in mint condition and I keep them for an average of 10 years as well. Although I envy the fact you know how to rebuild these complicated transmissions now a day. You got another sub.
Gillis Danos lol the trans shop tried to blame you! That’s the thing with these transmissions, one little screw up and it won’t last long. Thanks for the sub.
@@PetesGarageandperformance Your welcome. Now if a shop would say that I hot rod my 2500 they would be right. 6.4 HEMI with 4:10 rear end is fun, fun, fun !
I bought my 2000 Silverado with the 4.3L and 4L60E transmission back in 2006 that had around 60k miles at the time. It's been my daily driver and currently has just under 240k miles and never even changed the trans fluid once. I'm kinda ashamed to even say that, but I've always put it off. I'm not sure if the previous owner had ever changed it! It still drives and shifts without any problems! I'm getting ready to finally change the trans filter and fluid today, and am curious to see what it looks like in the bottom of the pan. I may have to update this and let you know how it looks when I get done. I changed the rear diff fluid once and that was within the past year! (Go figure) lol Yes, I do change the oil and oil filter regularly! The only mechanical parts that I've had to replace (knock on wood). -Steering Rack & Pinion (180k miles) -Power Steering Pump (225k miles) -Distributor (230k miles) Goes to show how reliable GM is!
You are correct for simple metal mesh filters, but some have a multi layers filter like post 2011 Mercedes 7 and 9gtronic. There is a paper like layer to catch thinner dust and I think for this type of filter it is better to change the fluid and the filter
I agree with your hypothesis. I've never changed sealed unit ATF or filter on a car, unless there was a problem with the transmission.... in which case it always needed more than a fluid and filter change anyway!
All filters regardless of type or brand have a limited life span of usable service, beyond that point, the very molecular structure of the filtration medium will breakdown, become saturated with normal amounts sediment reducing it's effectiveness over time. Im completely lost as to why the hell, would anyone drop the pan, to change the oil and not change the filter also, for the inexpensive cost and the time it takes to do, your point is totally irrelevant. Yes around 40% of the fluid does remain in the torque converter, but adding 60% new oil still introduces a nice fresh batch of additives that normally lose their strength after 80,000 kms, what ever remains in the TC will dilute into the fresh new oil, and the new filter, will clean up any suspended particles, giving your clutches, valves, solenoids, seals and torque converter extended life... If you are smart enough to rebuild a transmission, then you are certainly smart enough to know that the filtration medium, does indeed break down over time and begin to plug up or reduce its micron screening ability.
I agree with you about if you drop the pan to replace the filter while you are there. But I wouldn’t waste the time and would do a fluid exchange through the cooler lines instead. If the filtration media does indeed break down to the point of needing replacement, why would the engineers bury the filters inside the cases of the newer FWD transmissions?
@@PetesGarageandperformance Engineered to fail! We are beginning to go backwards instead of forward with the over complexity of new vehicle drive trains, they perform far better than older cars but longevity has been severely compromised. It started out with the removal of the dip stick, now it's the purposeful installation of the filter in a compromising location. Manufacturers want you to change your vehicle at least every 6 to 10 years.... I've seen so many vehicles develop shifting issues because of lose particles stuck in the valve body after a transmission flush through the oil cooler, using that cursed flushing machine. More a more repair shops refuse to use them anymore, Even my Cadillac dealer was glad when I told them not to run the machine on my CTS, and for good reason, we pulled the pan instead, installed the new filter, and topped with clean Mobile One ATF.
Pete most people don't understand most transmission filters low pressure are rock catchers they are there to keep large transmission parts from damaging the system. Keep the fluid fresh and transmission will be better than fine for many hundreds of thousands of miles.
@@davidporter7051 So that you know, I am a heavy equipment mechanic, I may not be an automotive technician, but I do maintain a fleet of heavy duty pickups, along side the industrial fleet, and I've seen first hand, automatic transmission filters, that were saturated with clutch and metal particulate, we regularly send filters and oil samples out to a third party for engine/transmission integrity analysis. Also the service manual, strongly recommends oil and filter be changed at the initial 100000km mark, and then every 80,000km there after.
Hi Pete thanks for the video. Question: so I’ve heard some mechanics say leave it alone, don’t touch the trans fluid..while others say, drain & fill it about every 60k..I have an 03 Corolla & drained & filled it only once around 90k. Should I leave it alone in your opinion or drain & fill it again? Since I never did it often, I wouldn’t want to cause any damage to it..any advice is appreciated, thanks.
My 2012 hyundai sonata has been facing a slip or a pull after the 2nd gear and it feels like the car is gonna switch off but ryt after 3rd or 4th gear it gets smooth. Will this be a problem with my automatic transmission filter?or just needs a gear oil change
My 06 Lexus was a little laggy on the shifting. Nothing major like hard shifts, but I went to do a fluid change and it was very dirty. Still a red color to it but dirty. I did a 4 quarts fluid change n saw some improvement. Now I’ll be changing the fluid and filter, just to try n get more of that old dirty fluid n debris out.
😊 Yes! Thank you! Typically, the killer to most transmissions is heat. Not debris or even fluid contamination so much. Now I will extract a gallon every 60,000 mi and maybe drop the pan and clean out every other time but heat is the killer. Transmission companies here in the south in Texas. Make a killing, especially during the summer. More food for thought.😊
You can get it out of the torque converter you just keep filling running and dropping it takes about 15qts to completely get everything out of the converter maybe even alittle more they used to have drain plugs on some torque converters not anymore though. I still change my trans filters every 60 thousand but I see your point. I just rebuilt a 4l60e too, the new stuff is taking all the fun out on working on automotive.
