Chris, you do great videos. Very professional with explanations so the amateur mechanic can follow along. I've been repairing automobiles for over 40 years and I still learn something from your videos every time I watch one. Thanks man, and keep them coming.
thank you, from the heart.. i come from a car family... they think i am the dumbest motherfucker on this earth...i went to school to become an engineer.. so in an argument.. im a dumb ass school boy.. even though all my gauges work on my 70 chevelle SS DASH and none of theirs do..
8:50 Chris...If that is one of the square gaskets you buy from Holley they are actually die cut. If you peel off the the film that covers the adhesive side and look at it under magnification and good lighting they are actually die cut round. You just need to pick at it to break the circle away from the square. Some may be easier than others to work with.
I have a Holley 1850 and it has vacuum secondary. I took it apart and it was missing the thin plate and thin gasket. the small secondary plate was screwed directly to the blue gasket. Now I have to look in my spare parts stash. Great video and explanations.
If your 1850 has a solid secondary sealing surface and no power valve channel/cavity it will not have that steel shim plate behind the secondary metering plate. The shim plate was only used on carbs with the seconary power valve cavity cast into the main body, which are usually the older carburetors.
@@TheCanadianBubba If it's missing the plate and it needs it, it'll cause all sorts of weird issues since the metering plate can't seal to the gasket with a big void behind it.
They all should matter. They all should be done the same. You do good work don't sell yourself short. My old man told me if you ain't going to do it right just don't do it at all-
Warped secondary metering plates are common causing leaks . Cheap fix is to remove all gaskets and screw metering plate on the carb body with only the thin metal shim/baffle underneath. Torque down the screws. This will usually straighten the plate to conform with the carb body surface. Also, cork bowl gaskets give a superior sealing surface. Solved the dripping out of the secondary idle transfer slots.
just do like i do .. there are a lot of BS channels trying to show off like they KNOW secrets.. there are NO secrets.. just rebuild it.. to factory specs.. and have a car that starts up like mine.
What if you don't replace the vacuum secondary check ball ? Whistle and create a vacuum leak ? Lost mine playing with springs, and now I have vacuum leak symptoms and whistling ?
Rebuilt a 3310-2 (working on carbs for a living) and gas slowly leaks out of the secondary idle transfer slots just above the secondary plates.Do a web search they all seem to be giving problems. Tried everything. All idle vents clear running out of ideas . Considering just blocking off the passage to prevent fuel from reaching the transfers and emptying bowl and rich running. What the hell does it need transfer slots on the secondary side for?...especially with vacuum secondaries that open gradually. Also the 3310-2 I have did not use a check ball for the secondary diaphragm.
i have not ran the 3310-2 yet.... but hearing your problem.. i would put that check ball in the diaphragm and see if that fixes it.... just a thought.. im still new at holleys and the 3310-1 I built runs perfect with no problems.. i will try to get the 3310-2 on when the weather gets cooler... ask that holley guy that has 40yrs experience.. he should know... sorry i cant help
Thanks for the fast reply. Some do not come with a check ball only those with a small slot on the ball seat. This one does not have the slot.and the delay action that the ball serves is done by a restricted orifice in the diaphragm housing. In any case that would not cause leaking fuel while sitting on the bench . Problem turned out to be the metering plate mating surface allowing leakage into the transfer ports. Thanks again and great videos
I noticed on throttle body gasket (in new kit) has open holes in two spots on gasket. I'm original owner should I block off? I can send you a picture. Awesome video!
Bought a bought with a 3310-4 everything so far looks almost the same. I did realize that im missing the backing plate on the secondary side. I do have the metering plate but not that thin backing plate. How important can that plate be? In your opinion
Hey Chris I've been building a 85 c10 with a 350 abc for a few years now and been following multiple of your videos. Just about ready to do the initial break in I'm also in the houston area was wondering if you would mind giving me a hand to make sure everything goes out ok. Really have been stressing the break in procedure.
As i was rebuilding my 3310 i noticed that im missing the metering side backing plate. Its that this shim like plate that goes behind the metering plate. How important do you think that pieces is especially being that the boat ran pretty damn good without it this whole time
it probably won’t matter for daily driving.. I’m not sure what happens.. it could keep secondaries open a bit longer or closed.. I will need to research that
Never heard of the check ball in the vaccum secondary?? I bought a cheap rebuild kit from eBay for $22 & STILL got a new secondary diaphragm?! Wtf Holley?? Lol
some nerd was telling me that not all vacuum secondaries use the check ball.. in all the videos where I took them apart I said they weren’t there.. when cleaning I found 3 little metal balls on the floor.. they all had them.. as far as that kit... let me know in the future if it holds up.. I buy Holley stuff because I might sell it at any time.. and if it screws up 2 years down the road they can get mad at Holley.. but yes, I will buy one like you got next time
NO.. the 4160s are economy automatic transmission STOCK CAM friendly carbs.... my next video is going over the 3310... which is a 4150 series (secondary metering block) and the original performance carb for the 396 big block .. should have the video up in the next day or two.. what engine are you running? i need all the INFO
With these manual choke 3310s, are they internal vacuum for the choke? I’m wanting to convert mine to an electric choke but need to know if it’s internal or external vacuum.
