Home Assistant: Automated Bathroom Ventilation 

Oh, that's smart, didn't think of that! How I have it configured now is that the cut-off value is a bit below the turn on value but still much higher than general humidity levels so we have no issues with it turning on too soon or staying on. But your idea seems better even and should be pretty simple to implement I think! :)

@@IntermitTech Fan on if Rv4>=65 Fan off if Rv4

What about using a hall effect water flow sensor.

What about using a hall effect water flow sensor on the shower.

It was raining heavily and suddenly I am smelling fresh coffee from the kitchen.

Hahaha, that made laugh! 🤣

I've looked into them but after trying the Bluetooth version, I really liked it so stuck with it, having a screen was also a very nice bonus. But maybe in the future I will!

The screen is indeed a big bonus. But having the reliable zigbee network is worth something too. I'm actually considering going in the opposite direction and adding the bluetooth versions for display purposes alone and keep it at the zigbee versions for reliability.

@@WoLpH I have used the bluetooth versions for sometime, and they seem just as reliable as the ZigBee versions. Reliable enough that I can use them for heating/cooling and humidity control :)

Using the ATC firmware flasher on your phone: atc1441.github.io/TelinkFlasher.html

You could use some kapton tape over it to make sure you can't reach the contacts, I've done that before when mounting it inside my patch rack and didn't want to accidently grab it.

@@IntermitTech Thanks; I was just wondering that. I'm still waiting for some quinLED pcb's to come in, but I'll make sure to use that in an LED strip project I made based on your information :)

@@ehvlullo Awesome, let me know how it turns out! Always love seeing people's projects. :)

Meanwell also has power supplies that don't have any exposed leads. I've got one in both of my kitchens and a few in other parts of the house as well.

It can be difficult depending on the situation and your room layout. The best way another commenter came up with is by using 2 sensors. One inside the bathroom and the other outside and calculating the difference between those two. That way, even if humidity rises as a whole, the system should still function the same.

My plan is to put a temperature sensor on the hot water pipe to the shower...

This one cannot display F sadly enough. But you could easily convert it in HA, just not on the display. I have some others on the way to test, maybe some of those, I'll have to see. Motion sensing will be a topic for in the future, but I do have some ideas! Thnx for the kind words, but different standards does make some topics hard. I've decided to mostly focus at what I have here, and overlap what I can.

OK, thanks for the confirmation on that model. I'm not set on any particular devices at the moment, but if it comes down to it, it doesn't really bother me if it doesn't display F. It will take some time and I don't see utility power, power outlets, etc. standards changing anytime soon due to the complexity of such changes. However, with energy sources such as solar and such becoming more adopted by the masses, that could help usher in some internationally adopted changes. Maybe the US will also actually (within the next decade) start to adopt C and metric units of measure since most of the world already has even if they end up commonly displaying both during the transition period! I'll definitely keep watching your future videos to see what ideas you come up with on motion sensing and such. Keep up the good work!

@@qbs7701 If you are still deciding, an option could be the ZigBee models without a display and then use a small display, like HA Switchplate, to show the values from Home Assistant.

​@@EsotericArctos I've actually been using 5 of the regular lcd models for around 6 months now and so far they seem to be working well even though they don't have the option to switch the unit of measure to F. I look at the temps more in HA which automatically converts it and when I do occasionally look at them, it helps me to get use to both units as a plus. I also have one of the e-ink clock thermometer models which does have the option to switch to F mode although the time is in 24 hr mode only and the app wouldn't work correctly at least at the time about 2 months ago unless I changed the region to "China mainland" (which I learned from a google search) so it at least could use some updating for international users. I tried to order a 2nd one in early Feb. from Aliexpress, but the vender canceled the order possibly due to the virus pandemic (no message was sent they just canceled it) along with other orders being extra slow that did get completed. I could still use an outdoor HA compatible thermometer along with a few more around the house so I may actually try some of the ZigBee models along with a compatible bridge/receiver and use them in places where I don't care about having a screen and such. Thanks for the suggestion and what method do you use to interface them with HA if you use them yourself?

@@qbs7701 I already have a ConBee setup with deConz that is used for ZigBee so I am using mostly ZigBee models with a couple of small displays in areas where I want clocks/temp displays. I have used the original bluetooth model as per Quindor's video and found that reliable as well, but given I have ZigBee already setup, it's easy, and a little cheaper, to use the ZigBee models as I don't need a display on every sensor. It also means I am not reliant on Xiaomi keeping the firmware the same on any newly purchased devices.

I have a box in the kitchen for all the other settings. This was only override to set it to max power mode, no other options I believe.

@@IntermitTech thanks for quick response, I already was looking if someone managed to analyze the modbus data for this device. No luck so far.

Sorry. Literally found it 2 mins after posting. It's domotica. www.t3.com/features/the-smart-home-guide Thanks for the vids

Well in my case the control box for the ventilation is located in the garage and the sensor needs to be in the bathroom, a full floor and some rooms away with no ability to pull a wire really. Home Assistant in between everything makes it extra flexible. Most ESP32s I have in the house have multiple things connected to it (The ESP32 in the garage BLE connects to some other local sensors) and having HA as a whole means I never had to adjust sny config just change it in the central brain, also for monitoring, etc. But yeah, there are always multiple ways to achieve the same thing in Home Automation!

...? Then how do you measure humidity, close to the shower and turn on the fan and make it turn on and off automatically? I get that the SC-1 could take the place of the relay, but I'd much rather use my solution because that same ESP32 in that spot can do much more stuff at the same time. But I also understand everyone's needs vary. :)

@@IntermitTech I have xiaomi hub and xiaomi temperature/humidity/barometer sensors in several rooms, all sending data to my Hass instance

@@man4evil Aaah like that, ok. I don't really like stuff that runs through a cloud that doesn't need to in my opinion, so that's why I connect them to an ESP32. No need to buy the hub either. ;) But yeah, that can work too, I don't see my solution being much harder though. :)

@@IntermitTech that's true. my xiaomi devices is banned from internet access by Mac on my mikrotik firewall.

@@man4evil Nice, I love Mikrotik stuff! But it still works that way? I thought it needed the internet to be able to use the official API to Home Assistant.