This has been an awesome help, thank you so much for your time and posting this video. I'm a 1st time homeowner and my home came with a stainless steel chimney on the side of the house. There was no stove inside, but I was given a free wood stove. It does have the specs calling out the installation procedures/clearances. Glad to know that the installation recommended on the label are the best way to install & pass inspection. Now I need to inspect the stainless steel chimney to make sure it's up to code. Thanks again for the info 😎👍
Stainless chimney must be rated for 2100°. Usually 2" insulation pack but several newer 1" chimneys meet the standard. Chimney must be supported well at the base and have proper 2" clearance from combustibles. Some base"T"'s require a wall thimble and some don't. Send me photos via my website contact info and I'll try to help
I appreciate the information on clearances as I am fixing to get a wood stove and install it and I'm installing it in a 32 ft long travel trailer but I am down to the studs on the wall so I will be able to insulate it with non-combustible insulation and use metal studs in the area of the stove but I still needed to know the clearances. I also will be having some sort of shielding on the wall, thank you for the measurements needed for the heights on the outside and the clearances needed for the flu pipe going through the wall or ceiling. The travel trailer at one point already had a wood burning stove in it and now I need to inspect that fitting in the roof carefully to make sure that it's going to meet specs cuz I really don't want to burn myself to the ground LOL this is been a very informative video and it was very helpful and needed thank you
A travel trailer requires that the stove is certified as mobile home approved and must be bolted to the floor and have an attached fresh air intake. The insulation will be considered flammable even if you use Roxul.
Looked up your channel, I think we have similar political views. Wish I had more subscribers. My wife and just talked about how many people are worried our government is going to shut off their gas and they are installing wood stoves as back-ups.
@@borderpropertyinspections2634 the insulation I was going to use is the insulation that they use around kilns,. It's rated for over 2500 degrees. It is non flammable.
@@borderpropertyinspections2634 since I posted this, there has been a change of plans, I'm going to build a cabin on my 2.6 acres and put my wood stove in there..
I watched every second, thank you. Sending this to husband. We have been in our home 27yrs. Our Napolian stove was wet cert. upon buying the house. Husband has a chimney brush and maintains twice a year, replaces cracked bricks in box etc. Do you think we should have an up to date inspection?
You're most welcome, The RU-vid videos that I do are very time consuming. But I like to put information out that I know is accurate.. Glad you found it useful.. You should check out my linkedin channel where I have shorter home hints. I also have hundreds of. Short home hints on instagram but I don't use instagram anymore.
Hi. I really enjoyed your videos on wood stoves. Very informative and not judgemental against DIYers. Did you do that Part 4 of the series about problem solving? I have installed a number of stoves over the years as a wood burner for over 40 years. I have done a few installs over the years with tile over mill board with the 1" space using drywall hat channel. Does that drywall steel furring channel over the standoffs pass inspection ? It offers good support for 1/2" Durock and the screws for the Durock are isolated in the top off the channel and may be OK for screws behind stove especially if two layers of Durock with cement between. As well do 1" spacers have to be ceramic or can 1"long pieces of copper, galvanized or SS steel pipe be used? On another project I have run a wood stove into a builders box (desperate for heat at time) with a hearth in front of builders box. Pipe goes up from top and elbows down into builders box and then back up into 1" chimney inside a large exterior chase. I am aware that the builders box only has 1" wall pipe which doesn't pass on a wood stove. It has ran perfectly for over 15 years with no creosote buildup and everything from stove to top off builders box taken apart for cleaning. The draft was great considering the 4 elbows. A local stove supplier mentioned that you can purchase an adapter to put on the builders box that can accept the newer 1" wall improved chimney or even a 2" wall chimney adapter. 1" wall would be needed to keep 2" clearance to house wall in chase. Are these improvements, if done, passable on a inspection with a rear exit wood stove pipe or would it be better to rip it all out and make a bit of an alcove setup with new everything. Lots of work for sure 🙂 On another topic I don't see any information available if 1" Ceramic Fiber Insulation Board (2300 F) cemented to wall with no airspace and tile applied over that would be a substitute for the 1" airspace to reduce wood stove clearances. Cheers
If the spacer is non combustible and a minimum of 7/8" it's good. Anytime something is attached to yhe wall it does not qualify as a shield for clearance reduction.
I have thought about making that forth video but gathering footage is tough. Overall I intended to talk about the stack effect and how your house can make a better chimney than the chimney and cause smoke spilage. Without good quality footage the videos become fairly boring.
And I'm not sure what you mean by hot box. You are right that 1" chimney is usually not S629 rated for 2100°F. Even if an install seems very safe it may lead to a fire abd if it's not compliant there will not likely be insurance.
@@borderpropertyinspections2634 Yes I agree on the stack effect especially if not so cold and no wind outside. Found it best to open a window by the stove until going strong, especially if your better half has the dryer or range hood going (-:
@@borderpropertyinspections2634 So it appears you are saying the hat channel is OK for the spacer behind the Durock as long as at least 7/8" airspace and open at top and bottom for airflow. The other question on the 1" ceramic board without airspace was of interest as I see no data or information on it on the wall. Only saw data on the floor application. It states it can take 2500 degrees and assume it doesn't transfer heat to the wall behind that a concrete product would.
Doesn't look like any questions in comments are being answered by the video poster. Lots of good info in this video... should look too at the other parts 1 and 2 etc..
Very helpful, thanks. I thought that any wall or floor that has a hearth or if it has a brick/tile wall around it was considered combustible if the material under the hearth or behind the stove (walls) it is still considered combustible. If that is the case, what is the point of say, puitting up say, cement board with tile if the combustion clearances are still the same?
Not certain if I understand the question. If you add shielding to reduce clearances, that shield needs to be sized appropriately and spaced away from the wall which achieves the air space and cooling effect. If the wall has a non combustible material such as brick or tile but no air space behind then it's not considered a shield. Non the less when measuring to the nearest combustible material you can ignore the brick and measure to the drywall or studs. Insulation regardless of the type is considered combustible, even Roxul. Hope that helps.
I wish I would have done more research before I bought my tiny wood burning stove.it is not certified,clearly stated on website.my fault.might not get installed if I need to install 4 ft. From every wall.
Thank you for this video. I have one question. I am now installing a wood stove with single-wall pipe for the indoors and triple-wall pipe for the outside. Can I later switch to double-wall pipe for indoors?
This is so helpful. Thank you. I have a question on total applieance+chimney height. I'm installing a wood stove myself and have the chimney at least 3 feet higher than roof plus 2 feet higher than the peak which is less than 10 feet away. The manufacturer of the stove "recommends" 14-16 ft from base of appliance to top of chimney. Is this something that is a hard and fast rule or can I see how the chimney drafts and add chimney pipe if needed. I just hate to buy more chimney pipe if its not required.
Your call but manufacturer recommends minimum height based upon rigorous testing. If they reccomend 14' of chimney its because that's optimum and less likely to cause back drafting. Sometimes your fist loss ($ for extra pipe) is your best loss. Smoke damage and poor performance is very costly as well.
@@borderpropertyinspections2634 Thank you again. Another topic that I can't find much information on is grounding. I'm in a manufactured home and my Wood stove manual requires grounding wire from the stove to an ibeam. Any recommendations on clamps or where on the stove to put it?
@@denverbasshead Grounding the stove to the frame of the mobile home. It is a requirement. I guess because of lightning. I don't know why it's specific to mobile homes.
@@paulrobinson5833 You are correct Paul. I trimmed the sheets with a narrow trim and it now has the look of sheets/blocks. I thought that would look best. Its just our barn/ rec room. Wish I could upload a finished picture, I think it looks pretty sharp.
