HomeLink Mirror Install for 2024 Acura Integra 

You're welcome! Yup, I ended up tapping into the reverse signal on my original harness and routing a button to disable the mirror from dipping when I go into reverse. The ITS doesn't come with the dip feature so I added the module from Mikstore, but quickly realized I only wanted it to dip when parallel parking. The kit doesn't come with a disable switch so I had to improvise and DIY.

No problem! I agree that they should have included it, but I personally don't mind getting my hands dirty and digging in like this. You might be able to get your dealer do it for you, depending on how cool they are with installs like this. This is an official modification for the Accord, so I imagine many dealers probably wouldn't be too averse to doing it. Otherwise you can probably find a reputable shop to do it as well.

@@fixallthethings I have a LIftmaster Gate Opener and a Liftmaster Garage Door Opener. What I ended up doing was buying a two button Liftmaster remote (for $32) and programming the gate and door to to the buttons on it. This way I only have 1 remote control clipped to my visor. It's not as elegant as Homelink but at least I don't have 2 remotes hanging on the visor. 🥴

Awesome, glad I could help!

Awesome, glad my video was able to help you! Unfortunately no video for the power folding mirrors - I installed the ones from Mikstore not long after doing the HomeLink mirror. I didn't make a video for this since I was in a rush. However, check out the video I did for the folding mirrors on the Rav4. The process was very similar - the biggest difference was probably the difficulty of reaching the bolts that hold the mirrors in, and having to fully de-pin the Honda connector where the Toyota one is designed to be split up into two mini-connectors.

@@fixallthethings dang, that vid would be killer and a hit. Ill check out the Rav4 vid. You’re instructions are very well scripted. You must be a teacher or military lol

@@cousindeaglecousindeagle4848 Neither - I'm a software developer haha. I guess in a way, writing code could be considered a form of teaching. The code is a set of explicit instructions that you want the machine to execute.

Did you order these exact part numbers for your FL5? The place I ordered online said these parts won’t fit based on my VIN.

​@@cbschraderYes. It says it doesn't fit because it's for the accord, but it fits fine in the FL5. I got the mirror and the wiring harness for about $220

@@dowbowski Cool, that’s what I thought but just wanted to make sure since they are wanting to cancel my order. I’ll let them know to send it anyway. Thank you!

Hey brother thank you for confirming this will fit on my Type R. Do I need to purchase Anything additional need to be purchased. Example Does the mirror stem get covered by the current type R housing? Just want it look super clean along with my blendmount radar/dash cam mount. Thank you.

@Paul11387 Nothing extra needed. Just order the part numbers for both the mirror and wiring harness, and you're good to go

You might be able to - the key things to look out for are that the mounting base is the same, and the wiring connector. If the connector is different (as with mine) you'd need to install the wiring harness like I did. If it's the same connector, you might need to add a jumper cable so the HomeLink part of the mirror gets power.

If it was, I didn't notice. I had the car for about 24 hours before doing this.

nvm, Germain Honda instructions say do not reuse... Probably because airbag.

The wiring kit comes with a new one so no reason not to use it unless you plan to go back in there to install/update wiring for a dash cam or something

I believe the part you mentioned is not frameless where the mirror I used is frameless. Also they use different harnesses. Your part says it's compatible with the 2022 Accord, where mine is for the 2023 Accord. I'm not sure if anything changed between those model years but you'd want to check both the harness connection (on the fuse box side) and the mirror base. Probably safer to go with what you already know works (either the 2023 Accord frameless mirror + harness, or the framed 11th gen Civic mirror + add a jumper wire to the existing harness).

Nvm someone else asked the same question and it was answered below! Great video! Will be doing this for my 2023 Civic Sport Hatchback 6MT 🤙

I haven't seen any links about this other than someone saying they jumped a few wires together when doing this with the Civic mirror (which had a different connector than the Accord mirror I used). What I would do is grab a multimeter and test the voltage on each of the pins on the harness connector on the side that plugs into the mirror and record which ones are getting +12 volts. Do this once with the car off, and then again with the car in Accessory power mode. There should only be one pin that is powered when the car is off, and that's the one you'll want to remove (don't remove it unless the battery is off or the harness is at least disconnected from the fuse box end). Then you'll have to attach a jumper wire from a pin that gets +12v in Accessory power mode, to the spot that held the pin you just removed. Hopefully what I said makes sense to you - if not, let me know and I can try to explain better.

Thanks for the write up. If I were to depin a connector, wouldn't that be the side of the fisebox so I could splice the wire with the ACC wire? Alternatively, I could cut the 12v wire on the mirror end and splice the wire with the ACC.

​@@automagniNo problem! You could probably do it either way. That being said, I think there are a few things to take note of here. If you do it on the mirror side, you'll need to make sure to tape off the constant +12v pin with electrical tape so it doesn't accidentally touch something and cause a short. If you do it on the fusebox side, keep in mind the harness has another connector by the two 2A fuses - I'm not 100% sure but I think this might act as a "splitter", similar to an outlet at the end of a string of xmas lights that allows you to add more lights (or in this case more accessories). If my thinking is correct, then if you change the input going into the harness from a constant +12v to ACC, this would affect additional accessories you add there. Personally if I were doing this, I'd probably do the splicing on the mirror side so no other systems are potentially affected. Now that I think about it, I'm curious to see what happens when you remove one of the 2A fuses from the harness. I'm guessing one is for the ACC and the other for the constant +12V going to the mirror. If that's the case, you can probably just remove the fuse for the constant +12V and add your jumper on the mirror side without having to cut anything. That way, if you ever decide to go back to how it was originally (or sell the harness for whatever reason), it's all easily reversible. If you go this route, it's probably a good idea to label the fuse holder so in the future you or anyone who works on your car doesn't try to add a fuse there and potentially cause issues. Whatever you end up doing, please post your findings here for everyone else to see.

I'm not sure which of the wires correspond to which, but you should be able to easily test this with a multimeter in voltage mode. Put the negative lead of the multimeter on a ground point (unpainted metal, can be the bolt where I attached the ground under the dash) and test each of the pins on the connector that plugs into the mirror, one by one (while the is mirror not plugged in but the connector is). While the car is off, the constant +12V pin should show a reading of +12V. The accessory pin should read 0 when the car is off and +12V when the car is in accessory mode. Make sure the harness is disconnected at both ends from the car if you do this, but you can either de-pin (recommended) or cut the constant +12V pin, and add a jumper in the connector between that spot and the Accessory pin. Make sure it won't come loose and that any de-pinned/cut wires are sealed off with electrical tape.

I think it should be mostly the same. The only difference I can think of is the Civic has a second set of buttons on the panel to the left of the steering wheel, so there would be an additional connector you'd have to disconnect.

@@fixallthethings alright perfect I also saw another comment you replied to saying that if it’s manual mirror then I skip the part about unplugging the connector and hiding it in the back at which part in the video do you do that I was going back rewatching but got confused

@@tyisgonee The connector I'm talking about is at 3:19. I think I may have remembered something incorrectly at the time I wrote that. The Accord instructions say to tuck it in but I rewatched my video and looks like I just left it there since for the Integra it's attached and not just dangling. The manual mirror shouldn't have the connector there so you'd just skip unplugging anything since there would be nothing to unplug.

@@fixallthethings ended up doing it today had one of my boys at my Acura dealer I work at do it and your video helped I appreciate you man!

@@tyisgonee Awesome! I'm glad it went smoothly for you and that I was able to help. Enjoy!

I believe they should. The Civics and the Integras from this generation are probably at least 95% the same internally. I've seen a few people post in forums that they successfully did this install on their Civic Si and Type R, so I don't see why it wouldn't work on the Sport. If your current mirror is completely manual and doesn't have auto-dimming then you'd just skip the part about unplugging the connector and hiding it back (just like in the Accord instructions). If you're worried before buying them, you can always check the top of the fusebox in your car for the connection where the harness goes, and also temporarily take off your original mirror to check that the bases are the same.

Hey there! Just wanted to say thank you so much for this video. I completed the install on my ‘23 Civic Sport. The instruction you provided was flawless and honestly, I don’t think I could have done this without your video. Many, many thanks!

Sure! It's just been sitting in a box in the closet since I did the swap. Send me an email at fix.all.the.things.channel@gmail.com and we can coordinate.

Ehh I wouldn't go so far as to say you're "tapping into the electrical system". It's really not any different than plugging in a phone charger or having the dealer install any of the available accessories (for example the heated steering wheel). I'd consider it "tapping in" if you had to cut/depin/splice wires, but this is easily fully reversible if needed. The only difference is they made it available for the Accord and not the Integra - the parts and instructions were all officially from Honda. But I agree with you, it would have been nice if this were at least standard or offered as an option, especially for a $40-50k car.

I add a homelink mirror to my volkswagon. Similar installation but the electronics couldn't be easier. After routing the wires down to the light switch, all I had to do was unplug the light switch, plug the connector into the light switch and then plug the original plug for the light switch into the mirror plug They made a stack, one plug into the other plug into the light switch, done. Easy peasy. Absolutely no chance of getting it wrong.

more like 60 thousand dollar car

If you don't care for frameless, yeah you should be able to use the same connector. That being said, I think if you go that route you may still need to add a jumper in your connector to get power to the HomeLink buttons if you're only getting power to the dimming part of it.

Yes, I did the jumper. After seeing your video I might get the frameless and sell the one I got.

Could you please provide information on how to do the jumper? Thank you so much!

​@@socal_gambler You'd want to take a multimeter and remove the connector from the mirror and test each pin with the car off, the car in accessory mode, and the car running. Take note of each wire - you're looking for one that's on ONLY when the car is running / in accessory mode (this will be your Switched wire), and another that is on even when the car is off (this is your Constant +12V wire). Next you'll want to disconnect the battery and then cut (or depin) and tape off the Constant +12V wire going to the mirror connector (make sure there is absolutely 0% chance of this wire coming into contact with anything as it's a live +12V wire). Then you'd want to add a jumper wire between the Switched +12V and Constant +12 locations on the connector - now the HomeLink pin should be using switched +12V instead of constant.

@@fixallthethings thank you so much!

Each button adds +4hp 😄