This seems to be the best method I have seen so far, I have some 3D printers and I printed some plastic foundation, however, it is not quick and is more expensive than buying it, although it worked just fine. I have seen some 3D printed embossing roller machines for embossing paper online, I think this could easily be converted for wax foundation usage, I will look into this. I enjoy making things for my own use and any saving of money is always welcome.
The handy jumper sleeve all purpose squeegees, thanks. This gives me hope to afford to start in bees and get em growing in numbers ( with 2 mates with a few hives).
No matter what I spray the rollers with, I end up with wax sticking. I found an easy and 100% reliable solution by simply putting the sheet between wrapping file before milling. Saran warp and glad wrap both work fine.
Try keeping your sheets in the warm water (around 30 degrees) with a little dishwashing soap. This combined with the rollers being coated will eliminate the problem. The sheets of wax are moved from the water bath and put though the rollers quickly.
Greetings from a small homestead in Texas! Thanks for making this video showing how to create wax sheets economically!!! We have an opportunity to purchase a wax foundation mill, but it wasn't going to be worth it if we had to buy wax sheets in the first place. We wish you all the best!
Great informative video. Do you have bees ?? Or do you just make them to sale ??. Also have you ever tried to put just the slick wax sheets in a hive to see how they would build on them or if the bees build them out any faster or slower one way or another. Thanks
Hi Kathy. I make these sheets for my own bees. I have used flat sheets of wax but the bees don’t work it as well as embossed sheets. I also use starter strips that the bees draw well.
@@lesgold2132 Thanks that is what I thought on trying to just put it in as a flat wax . I use the full sheets of foundation wax and have always had great luck with the bees drawings them out thanks for the response it looks like you have it going on . Keep up the great work. Thanks
Hi les, great work. I’ve thought about doing this but with the cost of bees wax fetching $30 and given that I’ll get 13 sheets to a kg, it’s probably easier and cheaper to buy it at $2.50 per sheet. Whats your thoughts.
Hi Mesbah. I think you have a valid point there. I have also considered that option. I can get about $17 per kg if I sell to the suppliers but if I want to sell my wax to the public, I would have to filter it three times and cast it into small ingots etc. so there is work involved as well. By making my own foundation, I know exactly what goes into it. (My own pure, disease and chemical free wax). My nearest supplier of foundation is 60km away and they charge a little more than $2.50 per sheet. I have to go and pick it up so there is the travel (or postage) to consider. If I am out of foundation and need a few sheets, I simply make it when required. Realistically, in my situation, it’s my best option. This may not be the case for other people. Thanks for the question. Cheers. Les
Les Gold agree, the most important thing about this is making it from your own wax. I think that is the whole point and worth it even if it costs a little more. I make my own using a mould as that roller cost to much for me, which is a great shame, the price really reflects that it’s just bee equipment, if it was for cooking it would be £100 lol.
Not all foundation is created equally. Some cheap out by using additives for example. But more importantly by casting your own foundation you can determine cell size. For a commercial beekeeper a bigger cell means less "waste", the bees have to make less wax to contain the honey, so more time is devoted to making honey. It has a downside though. Larger cells and varroa mites seem to go hand in hand. Which leads to more chemicals and more time devoted to pestcontrol. Within the natural beekeeping community you allow the bees to create their own cells. And those cells are far smaller then commercial cells. An added benefit is less of a varroa mite problem, as the mites mature with the bees inside the cell. Less room inside the cell means less potential for the mite (at least that is the working theory). Natural beekeepers also select bees for resistance and not maximizing profit, which means letting go sometimes. Nature does know best after all. Anyway, my point is, by making foundation with a smaller cell size you can take the middleground by using the size selected by nature as optimal, but aiding the bees by giving them foundation as a start, so they can go on and make honey.
Hi Les. You used to use a rubber mould but have now gone to an embossing roller. Have you changed because you found the straight brittle rubber mould foundation wasn’t drawn out by the bees?
Hi Duncan. The bees love the foundation. Don’t forget that inside the hive is 35 degrees and the wax is no longer brittle. It’s only an issue when you try to put in into a frame on a really cold day. Even then, you can still sit it in the in for a few minutes to make the foundation a little softer. I changed as I wanted to increase the rate at which the foundation was made. If I only had a few hives, I’d still be using the silicone.
Thanks so much Les for your reply and direction. As much as would love an embossing roller, I only have a dozen hives here in the UK and, as a Les experienced beekeeper I guess it wouldn’t be cost effective. Really grateful for pointing out that the foundation won’t be brittle once the bees get it up to temperature. Bless you.
Rolled beeswax is more flexible than cast beeswax. On cold days they will be more brittle. Leaving them in a warm environment before making the candles would be an advantage.
I thought soap was not safe for bees. How is it that soap can be used for this application without hurting the bees or honey safety and quality in any way? Please reply, I am genuinely asking.
The dishwashing soap stops the wax from sticking to rollers or the wooden paddle. All foundation is then soaked in pure rainwater after it is made to remove any residue.
Hi Nick. It may be possible but trying to get the wire tensioned and in the correct position in the wax would be a challenge. It is so easy to add the foundation to pre wired frames. I personally can’t see anything but issues with that approach.
G'day Les, how do you find these sheets hold up to commercial sheets when extracting? I try to only use wax in the brood boxes (plastic in the supers) but I'm curious as I've heard the commercial process makes them stiffer?
Hi Pete. I basically use them throughout the hive. I don’t use queen excluders and therefore the queen can lay anywhere. Like any new frames, I extract carefully the first time they come back out of the hive. Haven’t noticed any difference to commercially made foundation.
@@lesgold2132 Ok thanks mate, it's probably not something I will personally get in to as I'm moving more commercial but great to see others pulling this sort of thing off. Nice job
Hi Doug. I just use a small squirt of kitchen detergent and make sure that the rollers are wet GeForce starting each piece of foundation. Keeping the flat sheet of wax wet also helps.
The temperature is about 30 degrees C. At that temperature the wax is still playable and it runs through the embossing roller without cracking. Cast wax when cool is quite brittle.
I made the mistake of trying to imprint before applying the soapy water. BIG mistake. hope i dont break it when taking off the rollers to clean. BULA from Fiji Islands
@@lesgold2132 All went well. Elected to place the machine on its side and pour hot water over the rolers while rotating them. Its been good making my own sheets! Bee suppliers around here tend to make a 1:1 beewax:paraffin mixture which makes the mats rather brittle.
@@theEpicxY Glad to hear it all worked out for you. I’m not surprised that other waxes are mixed in to make the foundation. Beeswax is becoming a valuable commodity
Hi Alexa. The foundation is installed using the same methods that would be used when using commercially produced wax. Have a look at my other video on Homemade Beeswax Foundation to see this technique demonstrated.
Yes I do. Wax sheets sit vertically in a tub of rain water for about 10 minutes after manufacture. I then allow them to air dry over night before storing them.
You obviously don’t realise but ALL STAINLESS BEER BARRELS………..are and always remain the property of Carlton United Breweries if you cut them or sell them or damage them you will be charged with theft. I have a very good friend that was charged with theft of one because he made a letterbox from one and received a very hefty fine through the courts. You might want to change your boiling equipment as advertising on here is not good.
Thanks for the heads up. I had no idea. I purchased the kegs from metal recyclers many years ago. They had obviously been scrapped by the owners due to damage. From memory there was quite a few that were being recycled at the time.
Thanks for your reply. I am pleased that you raised that point. From your comment I assume that you don’t keep bees and have little knowledge of how a bee hive operates. Let me explain a few points. Wax by its very makeup is a clean and sterile material. When formed into sheets of foundation via heat, pasteurisation of the wax naturally occurs. You may notice that sheets are placed onto a concrete floor or onto a bench that contains dust, wood shavings etc. This is of no concern as any item placed into a beehive is meticulously cleaned by the bees. It is the natural way that they keep the hive sterile. Thanks again for your comment. I hope you have gained a bit more knowledge about this wonderful pastime.
