David, the half inch bolts keep the bar clamped. Even if the bar slips, the bolts wont break immediately. The log protects you on the top and bottom. It really is quite safe.
WHAT IF THE SAW COMES FROM OUT OF THE PINCHED SECTION OF THE FRAMMING AND IT KICKS OUT.WHAT IS GONNA STOP IT FROM HITTIN GU IN THE LEGS?kewl idea on mill.looks like it works ok.
its pretty much just a basic Alaskan saw mill. i have my own but i use a 72 inch bar, but only two high tensile height adjusting 40x40 box section with angle clamps to hold them and my saw clamps are 18x75 flat mild steel at 200 long machined out circles projected in centers 50mm diameter x2 high tensile 12mm bolts on either side at each end. but because my bar is so long i have attacked an angle chain guard at end of saw with secondary oiler attached to it that i made out of a 2 stroke scrub cutter petrol tank with a nifty flow valve and a 127cc 090 mag Sthil. also because of the length i need two people to pull it so i mounted a handle with a soft grip for vibration and the 40x40 bow section slide frame that holds it all together just slides along a seven meter ladder so similar system, works great tho especially if your not at the engine end lol gets painful after a few slabs with that engine trying rip your arm off, helps if the secondary driver doesn't push too hard
Neat. Bit o plate around the free end of the chain and a little on the top bracket for if your hand slipped on narrower logs and it would be a safe as it could be, probably salable. Dragons den, no more than 20% though....
Don't put the clamp on the end of the bar nose there are bearing in the nose and most people have no idea You have to grease the nose that's what the little hole on the side is for, they make a special grease gun for bars like the bar in the video. hard nose bars do not take grease.
Gordon, I am wearing foam ear plugs. This entire mill was welded using a $100 90 amp flux core hobby welder. No reason not to learn to weld. Buy a welder off craigslist and get started.
Hey Konrad, nope, no rubber. Steel on steel. The rubber may compress uneven which would angle your bar a bit and cause the mill to rise or fall in the cut resulting in an uneven slab. Steel to steel causes no slip so really no need for rubber.
I was really wanting to make one, can you do a PDF or a Sketchup plan for us so we can follow how to build it? I own a 18" saw and wanted to make one so I can cut smaller trees.
Great video. I've been wanting to build a self sufficient homestead with a log cabin (on a budget of course). I also just started to weld incidentally. Ps: I have a friend named l leitner and his dad is a middle-aged Jewish lawyer in NY and a Yale graduate. Are you by any chance related?
Did you use a special Chain ? Don't they make a ripping Chain ? I would like to do this. About how long would it take you to make a pass on a 14ft log ?
I am glad you all like my video and my lumber mill. Bolt together would work well as long as locktight and/or lock washers were used. I am really not into trying to sell this design as its not all that different from mills already on the market. Thanks for the suggestion about the guards and such. Ill tgink avout adding some. Hope to have a new video up soon!
I like your mill, but looks heavy. Want to see my little aluminum mill I made from scrap I was going to melt down? If so lookup my Versatile timberjack, I think you will like it too, cost less than ten bucks in scrap.
I am not worried about losing money as I never intend to sell these, patent the design, or try to make money on this idea. Thanks for your concern though.
