I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ru-vid.comUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Wow, never saw a chainsaw mill go electric. Good thinking. Pretty nice lumber coming out of that. You must have some kind of oil tank to feed the chain and bar from burning up.
Thank you! Yes, we decided on an electric drive because our first attempt with the chainsaw was not ideal. The fuel consumption was very high and a cut took a long time. I think a chainsaw would not have withstand very long. The oil for the Chain comes out of the blue tanks mounted on the sledge. An oil pump from a chainsaw delivers the oil to the chain.
Thank you. I think a longer sword would work too. But because of the greater cutting forces I would use a thicker chain. It is also important that the chain is sharpened evenly, otherwise the sword will run up or down.
Nice, I have a portamill from Norwood and I am looking to replace the chain saw by an electric motor. I like your, do you have mechanical plan of the fixture on the electric motor? Thank Pierre
Hi, thank you for your feedback. You can write me an Email than I can send you some detailed fotos from the sawmill. You can find my Email in the Video description.
You can write me an email and then I can send you a couple of pictures. You can find my email address in my channel info. You have to call up the channel info on the PC, otherwise the email will not be displayed.
A friend made one very similar to this , but he had to star drives ,right hand star was power for forward cut ,, then the left hand star was power for the return , he could cut going both directions, don't know if made it any faster , but it was neat to watch . Just used v-belts as clutches. Mind you, with the way yours works I don't know if I'd change a single thing
Hi, I did not expect that there would be so much interest in my sawmill. Since the email address is not easy to find on my channel, I wrote it in the video description of this video.
I love your design and the simplicity of the mill itself. I am trying to figure out what brand or company makes those height adjusters that you use to raise and lower the log, or did you build them yourself? Thank you
The frame is similar to that of a Logosol sawmill. Instead of the ratchet with automatic locking, we simply use a bolt for locking . The slide is self-built and the lubrication in particular was not that easy to implement.
Is the 7.5kw engine necessary ? Chainsaws propelled by fuel never have that kind of power ? Also, i am interested in building one of these but don't have more than 2kw of electric power ... Any thoughts on if that is feasible ? It is to saw Douglas fir in max 40cm diameter as i don't have any machine to lift. Thanks in advance
Hi, in my opinion the 7.5 kw is exactly right. The engine has already stopped on a wide oak trunk. I could imagine that the 2kW motor is not enough for a 40cm wide saw cut. Maybe it's very slow and the engine warms up quickly. Normal chainsaws are not as powerful because they will never operate at full load for that long. The chainsaw I had on a sled at the beginning of the video has 7.5 HP. It was also very slow. Of course you can just test it with your engine. You just have to keep in mind that it will take longer and make sure that the engine doesn't get too hot.
Hi Ben First of all very nice build chainsaw mill i have seen. Cutting is also smooth. I have also started building one but stuck in making oil pump. Was wondering if you have any blueprint for fitting of oil pump. Thanks
We also worked on the oil pump for a long time until it was perfect. However, we also have a CNC milling machine at home. This was very helpful when adapting the oil pump. I have an exploded view of the sled. Write me an email and I can send you the drawing. You can find my email address in the channel info.
@@bensch7530 Hey Ben! Thanks for replying. Searched for your mail id but wasn’t able to find. Could you please mail on my email id : triveshhans@gmail.com Thanks & Regards
@@triveshhans I forgot to say that you can only see the email address if you call up youtube on a PC and then go to the channel info. I sent you the email with the drawing.
Thank you. We took the 10hp engine because we still had it in stock. I think a 7hp motor would be enough. At 10hp the chain determines the feed speed because it will eventually break at the power of the motor.
Great design! I have often thought about using a lawn mower engine about 26hp. They have an electric clutch and a belt turning the chain pulley would double insulate the motor from catastrophic failure. I just don't think 3/8 chain could handle the load.
Nice build. Basically an early Logosol copy. Electric motor is a good idea. Gas engines do use a lot of gas and can overheat. Only thing I don't like about chainsaw mills is the amount of timber lost due to the wide kerf.
I see you need to detach the end to change the chain. Something that might make this quicker is to attach the support arm by bolting through the bar instead of clamping. You lose some capacity of course.
Wow bin begeistert !!! So ne Anlage kaufen kann jeder, aber Learning by Doing ist ne andere Sache. Vor allen Dingen, selbst gemacht und funktioniert Tip Top
Super robota 👍👍👍 Jak zrobiłeś system poziomowania kłody ??? Posiadasz jakieś rysunki budowy traku?? Planuje sam zbudować cos podobnego a ten twój trak naprawdę robi wrażenie. Brawo👏
@Sapphire Wood Crafts Thank you! I watched your video. Definitely runs better than we used the chainsaw. We only have a sharpener for the saw chains. It is important that all teeth are the same length and have the same angle, otherwise the saw blade runs and then jams. With the file you can not do that exactly. I would not buy the cheapest device. Otherwise we have no extra accessories.
@@bensch7530 Hi Ben, how did you connect the chainbar/chain to the motor please? are you able to share list of parts please? I ordered a chainsaw sprocket and clutch drum to start with but any help with this I really appreciate it.
Ben your hand crank set ups to advance the saw and to raise and adjust the log height are "elegant simplicity". Such practical design is appreciated. I have used my Granberg "Alaskan" chainsaw mill to slab up 4 large oaks. Very hard work. I found it sawed somewhat faster by advancing the saw bar at an angle into the cut. Will Malloff in his book "Chainsaw Lumbermaking" suggested this also. It would be easy for you to do a simple test to be able to compute whether it would be worthwhile to change your mill to cut somewhat faster with perhaps less strain on your saw chain and more fully utilize your available horsepower , depending on how much sawing you do. A short piece of cant and a bar or pipe clamp could be set on the mill log support. With the clamp attached to the cant and a couple of C clamps holding the bar or pipe clamp to the mill log support. The short piece of cant could then be sawed parallel to the saw head guide rail or angled to point to the far end of the guide rail to simulate what sawing would be like if the 90 degree bar to guide angle were opened up, (if the angle was opened then the chain would enter the where the log is closest to the saw head). Seems to me the greater, practically, the bar angle could be opened from 90 degrees the better. But who knows? From your "thinking man" mill design I think you might enjoy such a simple experiment. And if angling the bar is worthwhile many would love to know. Thank you for sharing. James
Hi James, thanks for your feedback! Really an interesting idea. I've also heard of that it should bring benefits. But the cutting width is getting smaller and we need the full width more often. If the sawmill is no longer used that often, we try it out. To try it out, we could just put the wood at an angle. So we can see directly whether it brings any advantages.
@Patrick Yes I agree with you. The chain has to saw more material. I could imagine that the angle at which the chain enters the wood requires less force and is gentler on the chain and you can therefore make more feed.
@@Patrick-kc5ur Patrick It is all about the structure of wood. With my chainsaw I cut into a 2 foot piece of log from the end as Ben's sawmill does. It was hard sawing and made fine sawdust. Then I put the log piece on its side and made the cut with the bar parallel with the length of the log. It was easy sawing and produced long "excelsior" strands of wood. What I understand is that the darker part of the growth ring is denser and harder to cut. When you saw directly into the end of the log the saw tooth must repeatedly cut through all the growth rings. When sawing with increasing angles into the wood think if a triangle _____i ( in your mind connect the dot on the top of the i with the start of the line). The base of the triangle is the saw cut advancing straight into the log, the hypotenuse of the triangle is the longer saw cut when sawing at an angle - also the line is soft wood the i is the hard growth ring. When sawing at an angle the tooth spends more time in the softer wood and cuts across the the hard growth ring less often and courser sawdust is produced. Less stress on the chain so the chain can be advances into the log faster. I expect this is all set forth in a very scientific paper at the USDA Forest Service Forest Products Lab in Madison, Wisconsin and elsewhere. For Ben's mill this would only be practical if the saw setup were mounted on a plate that rotated on the carriage so change from straight to angled cuts could me made seamlessly between logs. But who knows if it would be worth while? James
@@bensch7530 It was a giant buzz saw and they figured someone had put a horseshoe on a branch when it was young and the tree grew around it. Ruined a very expensive saw blade
Works without problems. A cut oak takes a little longer than spruce. The speed is limited by the chain and not by the motor. Because the chain gets very warm with hard wood, I use water cooling.
The power of the engine is more than sufficient. A 5kw motor would also be sufficient. The chain breaks before the engine reaches its performance limit.
Sehr gute Konstruktion, mich würden auch mehr Details zu dem Sägeaggregat interessieren. (die Riemenübersetzung/Riemenspannung, Sägekettenspannung etc.)
I'm just guessing here but are you using the big electric motor to drive a hydraulic pump which in turn drives a hydraulic motor which turns the sprocket? Do you have trouble with the hydraulic oil getting hot? Very nice set up. I really like your track system and height adjustment . Very good!
@John Pullman Thank you for your Feedback. The chain is driven directly by the motor via a V-belt. What you see in the video is the oil pump for lubricating the chain. I also think that you get problems with too hot oil if you make the drive hydraulic.
That is fast. Its also is pine. What would it be like in hardwood. The guy that said about a 4 cycle motor Has to have gear increasing. Also one with hydraulic. Hydraulic is slow. But torque. Change ratios. I would like to install a 72" bar. Investigating carbide teeth. For hardwood crotch. We live in British Columbia Canada. There are mills everywhere. Guys with headsaw mill cut beams and posts. Or portable bandsaw mills. For $10,000 I could get a production mill. Has to be portable. Electric isn't an option.
@@davewelch1932 Hardwood, for example, oak, we have also often sawed. But it should not be too dry. Speed when sawing oak is not much slower than with spruce. Carbide teeth we have not yet tried because we have no sharpening device. But would still know how it works.
