Hello Bien. Great device for home use and for little money. The 1450 revolutions are definitely too small. You can increase them 2-3 times. Mount the motor parallel to the rotor of your centrifuge. On the engine a large wheel a on the rotor axis 2-3 times smaller. It's a job, but the effect will be visible. Greetings Tadek
Neat. What I would have been curious to see is a "glove test" of the solids collected by the bowl. Also, it would be interesting to see you run the cleaned oil through a second time, to see if further solids were removed. I'm interested in this process for cleaning waste vegetable oil for use in an old IDI diesel car.
I would like to see a sample of the oil before treatment, the clean oil, and the dirty oil in test tubes. That way, we can get a comparison of opacity, viscosity, and general color. (basically, a "before-after" test)
Once this has been processed do you think that that waste oil is clean enough to pass through the filter element of a home heating furnace? I’m thinking if I can get it clean enough to go through the filtering system and I can run it in my shop warm air furnace? Thank you good video
Yes, Pete, I think it would, with the proviso that you use a faster spinning motor than the one I utilised which wasn't really fast enough, (ideally 4000 r.p.m +), as it was all I had available at the time, but the filtered oil was clean enough for my less critical use where it had to pass through a heating furnace jet/nozzle. It did this perfectly without any blocking with dirt. Hope this answer is of some help.
great video, how did you achieve balance on the spinner? for those of you who plan to build one like this, may I suggest that spinning the drum faster if you can find a way. this will reduce the dark color, and slow the flow. thanks Brian for sharing
Thanks for positive comment, jerry thomas . I fully expected to have a balance issue with the spinner but was pleasantly surprised to find it ran smoothly first time round. Running faster might well show up a problem here, but for my purposes the speed was fast enough and the thought of something going wrong at high speed, upsetting the apple cart and flooding the place with black oil also made me stick to the lower speed.
Actually I would like to know about the design of the dirty oil container are there any holes inside it . how it is connected with the outer drum . where the impure oil is stored . These are my doubts . kindly upload a small video on this . especially the video on how the outer drum and inner impure oil drum connection regards Kailasanathan
So does the oil spill over the top lip while the centrifuge is spinning? Or do you have holes in the bottom of the centrifuge and it goes out that way?
O.K., armorer1984 - The centrifuged 'cleaned oil' spills over the top into the outer receptacle. There are two holes in the bottom of the centrifuge spinner in towards the centre, but these only come into play when everything stops and this 'dirty oil' residue then drains into the waste oil receptacle. Hope that explains it.
In answer to Todd Crenshaw's query, there would be no difference visually between my 'dirty' and 'cleaned' oil. All this centrifuge process does is remove the solids from the dirty oil (necessary only for my pressure jet furnace burner set up). It cannot remove the black 'colouring' in the oil, otherwise I'd be reusing it in my car ! I too have an oil burning stove working on exactly the same principle as yours, and also have to remove the hard burnt residue in the bottom regularly . The tip I use and suggest, is to place a large paint tin lid in the bottom and when time comes to clean it, all it takes is to remove it and give it a few taps with a hammer from the underside to break up the solidified carbon - two minutes maximum ! Try this and see...
Yes, Christopher Jones, The waste solids are centrifuged and compacted onto the outer inside face of the 'kettle' (1:10 on video), although I wouldn't describe it as a 'crevice'. A paper or light card ring can be inserted here for easy removal of the solids. When turned off, any un-centrifuged remaining liquid in the 'kettle' drains off through a hole in the bottom into a container, (4:50 on video). Hope this clears up your query.
Hi. Nice built. If i can suggest, heat the oil to 100+ Celsius, add bleaching earth to the hot wvo, and feed to the spinner. We will be grateful if you can do that for us to watch. Hehehe.. Cheers 🥂.
For the purposes for which I'm using the centrifuged oil, there would be no need to add the expense of bleaching earth. Thanks for suggestion, Vape Craft, anyway.
No, Graham, I use the oil for a drip fed homemade 40 gallon drum oil burner/heater for my workshop, but the centrifuge was primarily made to obtain totally dirt free oil for a pressure jet furnace burner which I made. If the oil was not 100% clean the fine nozzle blocked up all the time.
Hello from Argentina. Sorry but dont understan ver well. This sistem can be used to separated glicerine to vegetal oíl used? I would like to do some to obtain biodisel. Thanks you.
Impressive bit of machining there, but the oil is still only clean enough for a waste oil burner. Like Todd said, you need at least 6000 rpm's, preferably more, to get really clean oil. You could have accomplished the same thing that you already did, in a lot less time and effort, by buying a little 12v or 110v Sureflow pump, and then rigging up a series of water well filters to push the oil through. That's what I did. My first filter is a typical automotive oil filter with a probable micron size of 15-20. The next filter is a water well filter with a micron size of 10. The next one has a micron size of 5. The final filter has a micron size of 1. I generally dump 5 gallons of this filtered oil into the fuel tank of my "94 Chevy dually with a "93 12v Cummins up front, at each fill up. At 20 mpg that means 100 miles of free driving, plus the injector pump is being adequately lubricated. Once for 6 months I ran on 100% used, filtered, free ATF, no diesel. However, I have noticed that if I allow a 5 gal. pail of this filtered motor oil to sit unused for a month or so, then pour it into my truck, there will be a layer of slime about a sixteenth of an inch deep in the bottom of the bucket. It's a little thicker for used ATF. This black slime is apparently composed of suspended particulates that were smaller than 1 micron, and which apparently pass right through the injectors. But my experience of doing this over many years now proves a couple of things. One, even after all the filtering, it's best to allow the filtered oil to sit for a month or so in order to provide time for the remaining suspended particulates to sink to the bottom of the container. And second, a typical oil filter on an internal combustion engine, gas or diesel, is totally useless. Having it there gives you a warm feeling inside, but it's apparently a false assurance, doing your motor no good at all. This is especially true in consideration of the fact that the oil in the crankcase gets darker over time as much if not more as a result of the formation of sulphuric acid that is created from the combination of sulphur in the fuel, heat from the motor, and moisture in the air. Oil filters can't remove this. Just speaking from experience.
Yes, Vape Craft, I could try heating the oil beforehand but the bleaching earth would just be an additional cost by adding it, as the present results I'm getting are quite satisfactory for me.
Sir it is excellent , thanks for uploading this video . I humbly request you to show how the inner connections are assembled . I did not understand the inner assembly . I would be thankful if you upload that video regards Kailasanathan
Thankyou, kailasasathan T N, I thought the assembly was clear in the video and I can't quite understand your difficulty. If you could message again with the precise beginning and end times in the video that you are unsure about, I will try and help.
I presume, bos dad, you mean the 'pan' at 1:13 in the video which as I said was cut from the bottom of an old kettle with plywood ring fixed to it. Hope that clears this up for you.
Dear sir Your video was excellent . Kindly tell me about the connection of dirty oil pipe outlet to main assembly . Please help me to understand it better. Regards nandini
Thanks for favourable comment, nandini jmv, The dirty oil outlet fitting is tapped into the sandwich plate (2:14). This fitting passes just outside of the motor flange (3:12) for connection to a drain pipe. I hope this helps. to answer your's and kailasanathan T N's question too.
Yes, prabu, the oil seal is just a press fit in an accurately bored hole in the pan which is 3mm thick - quite enough to hold it in position. Hope this helps.
I'm inclined to doubt it would do this, Ann Maria, not having had the need to try it. I just let my containers of waste engine oil sit for a day or two whereupon the water settles to the bottom and can be avoided.
@@confabrication hi, but considering the concept, because a centrifuge should be able to do this; if attempted it can be possible right? I'm currently developing my school project, and I want it to be simple, therefore I wanted to use your idea of making a centrifuge. So it should work right; to separate the water from the oil? correct? or is it not realistic?
I've never has the need to try to separate oil from water and thus I cannot say if something like this might work, although I'd be very interested to know if someone like your selves could achieve this. Sorry I can't be of help to you. (p.s:- I have copied and pasted this reply into your other similar request in case you miss it)
@@annmariaanthony8260 I've never has the need to try to separate oil from water and thus I cannot say if something like this might work, although I'd be very interested to know if someone like your selves could achieve this. Sorry I can't be of help to you. (p.s:- I have copied and pasted this reply into your other similar request in case you miss it)
Wow a totally fantastic video my friend. I did not look yet to see if you had continued your research into getting the oil literally stupid clean...lol I do not even think waste motor oil needs to be that particularly clean t be able to run in a Diesel engine but will always run better when diluted with a better burning additive
@@confabrication I was going to start out by saying I am a chemical engineer but I do not think it matters because most people do not think out o the box.I have had good experiences when heating with sawdust and waste motor oil/transmission fluid. Just use a high cam fan to keep it burning very hot and the ash and clinkers that form seem to self digest. This in a total waste system. I used to make biodiesel and the centrifugal filtration system was excellent for stale or old and I mean very old diesel. I built a centrifuge and put the fuel through it until I had what I was going to use in few days in my truck. Then I would treat the fuel with stability diesel treatment and it truly brought it back to a fresh state. That is why I was akimbo. Because I was wedding if ylluhad any experience with this.
@@confabrication I never had any problems with the mechanical pumps. I would always be Leary of those finicky high tech things. Better be safe then sorry. I am going to use the sawdust /waste motor oil(after centrifugation) to make pressed logs for the coming bleakness. Thank you for getting back to mr.
@@johnkoury1116 Unfortunately by car, being a VW of 2005 has one of those 'finicky high tech things', so will not be trying waste oil mixture out on it !
@@timothykeith1367 The 'cleanliness' of the oil is good enough for my purposes so no need to have it expensively tested, but thanks for suggestion anyway.
@@confabrication It's only needed to test one batch of the oil, provided you continue to use the same procedure from the same source . Testing is generally not expensive. In some cases the provider of the oil tainted it by using it to dispose of materials you don't want in oil.
mount your electric motor on a salvaged RWD car differntial , orient input shaft pulley up and fix your bowl on it :)😇 one of the 2 output shaft connected to electric motor other side blocked to double the speed of the input shaft
I'm impressed that you built this but am unsure about the "clean" oil. It still looks pretty nasty to me. I have a converted wood stove to oil burner. The burner runs hot enough to cause the oil to gasify, creating tremendous heat and a very clean burn. The problem is the contaminates in the oil collect at the bottom of the burner and because of the high heat they fuse, creating a very hard waste substance that I must chisel out on occasion. I'd like to clean the oil with a centrifuge but the costs are much too high for a commercially sold unit. However, as mentioned the oil out of your home made centrifuge doesn't appear to be that clean. Can you post pictures of the dirty oil and clean oil in glass jars so we can see how clean the processed oil is? Thanks.
Interesting, but I believe that the oil can be returned to its normal or near normal gold and transparent state. The solids on a very small scale are what causes the darkening of the oil. Looking at centrifuges for W/O cleaning in the $800 range and up remove enough of the solid material from the oil to give it its natural gold and transparent appearance. Of course these centrifuges are spinning at anywhere from 3000 to 6000 RPM with a gravitational equivalent of 30 G's or better. I was hoping that your solution would be closer to that capability. Though your design is ingenious and much less expensive than the above stated centrifuges, I don't believe the clean oil coming from your design is going to be good enough for my need. I have an oil burning stove that burns the oil through gasification (extremely hot, converting the oil to hydrogen, methane and other trace gasses). The stove works great with one exception. The contaminants in the used motor oil solidify on the bottom of the burner and over time build up. This build up of material has to be removed. Because of the extreme high heat, this material isn't ash but instead melts together and forms a very hard material which I have to chip out using a hammer and chisel. I need to find something that will clean the very small particles out of the oil like the larger centrifuges I mentioned do. I was hoping your design would get closer to what I need, but it has given me some ideas. Thank you for responding and for posting your centrifuge on RU-vid. As mentioned, you've given me some ideas on how to get the oil cleaner. Now I just have to find the time to implement those ideas and test! Thanks again - Todd
Todd could you find some suitable use throw away able plate or catch system that after they build up you just lift out and toss in trash? Do you have a any photos of you converted wood stove. I have thought about the same thing wit an old wood burning stove insert that someone has given to me.
Yes, Corey Parks, by placing a strip of light card around the inside perimeter of the spinner, this can be removed together with the dirt on it and thrown away. I have already mentioned this about a month ago - see reply to Christopher Jones' question below. Where is the 'converted wood stove' you are referring to ?
Hi, Corey Parks, - something seems to have got cross wired somewhere. I got a question about disposing of the solids waste, as you can gather from the answer above, (the enquiry I now can't find and seems to have been removed), and posted an answer to the question. Todd Crenshaw's post did not enter into it. Just don't know what happened !
The oil would never come out a nice golden colour, but it filters dirt that would otherwise block my forge nozzle jet. That's all I built it to do and it works well for this purpose.
