Did extreme tight turns clockwise and counterclockwise at neighborhood school parking lot, slow in my 1995 Honda ACTY SDX H4 . Heard slightly popping sound not loud in both directions! Further examination tears completely in half in boots to where you could put fingers through and feel the grease! Exact spots as your boots! Thanks for the video now I know what I have to do or have done! Why me?
Awesome informative video. I just purchased an acty last week and Im picking it up tomorrow. I plan on doing all the maintenance work myself so I will definitely be watching your videos. Please do more routine maintenance videos for the acty. Thanks for your hard work!
I just now am working on my rear boots. I was unable to get the outer part out of the outboard hub and I could not get a puller (pusher) that fit. I was stuck, then I realized I could remove the retaining ring and remove the drive shaft from the cup on the inner side of the hub. This means I will assemble it partially on the vehicle which will only be a little bit more difficult. Nice video!
the torque value on the Rear Axle nut is 20 kg.m (144ft lbs) . It was on page 184 on the service manual in suspension chapter. Watching your video as usual before i prep my brain for this task. Removing all 4 axles and rebooting them all tomorrow. Probably will be few days task for me. 3 of the boots were shot and rest were looking pretty bad. Can tell the rubber was degrading and its only a matter of time.
Awesome! Thanks for the info on torque. You've got a job ahead of you but the front axles are much easier and like a FWD Honda. You may as well do both in the back when you do one. I wish I would have done both as a preventative measure.
@@rhd_ron That is true. As of now i rebooted both front axles, changed both tie rods, both lower control arm ball joints, center steering arm, and torsion bushings. Plan was to do rear axles after this but to tell you the truth i need a break :D. Also noticed the front propeller boot was completely gone and leaking grease from there as well. Service manual really doesnt tell how to remove it just tq value and a graph. Do you have any infos regarding about that? It almost looks like you unbolt it from transmission side , then remove the bolts on the front differentials and it should pull out. but not 100% sure never touched 4wd before.
I add most of the grease into inside of outer joint then I push it onto shaft till It bottoms out pushes all that grease threw the bearings any left I add to boot
Awesome! I am looking at maybe getting a Vamos turbo engine for my other truck. thought it would be a sweet swap, and retained the bed use. Thanks for viewing!
Ron thank you for the super helpful video. I did my axle boots this weekend w the guidance of your video! Question- does removing the leaf springs from The torsion bar mess up the alignment in any way?
Congrats! Glad my video could help. It Should not mess with the rear alignment as there is no toe or camber adjustment with the leaf springs. Just drop the shackle bolts. Put them back in. Thanks!
Oh brother, that is A TASK. So, get the outboard into the bearing as far as you can by hand. Then take the axle by hand and use it like a hammer (using the take up of the boot) to hammer it into the bearing. I was able to then get a piece of wood from the outside (inside the drum/shoe area) up against the bearing. THEN put the axle nut on to pull the remaining portion of the outer CV (using the wood up against the nut) through enough to then go back with the Drum. Then use the axle nut pressed up against the drum to pull it all the way through. It was really a 4 step process of slowly "inching" the outer CV into the bearing. Hard to describe but I hope that makes sense. Little-by-little until you can get the drum on, and have enough thread to start your nut on the axle. Then all is well.
I know! It's almost a press fit. I didn't sand much, just shined it up really with 500 grit. It still took some "using the axle as its own hammer" to get the spline in far enough to allow the castle nut to pull it through.
No, I would not use that in the transmission. It is far too thick for the high speed rotating gears and synchros in the transmission. The service manual calls for 10W-30 or Honda MTF. Thanks!
Was there a noticeable noise or vibration that lead you to replacing this? I just got a few Acty's myself and one of my 4wd's had a weird vibration that starts at around 35kph, I have a feeling a worn boot might be the culprit but not sure.
@@rhd_ron gotcha, gonna put it up on a lift in a day or two and see what it might be. Thought maybe it was tires needing balanced but the vibration seems to increase and decrease with throttle manipulation, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thanks for the quick reply though!
So after two days my band clamp failed and I already see some grease shot out. Can I just cut that clamp off and get a normal pipe clamp style one on it? Or maybe one of those crimp style ones. Super frustrating.
Ugh my life sucks. Tried a regular one but it was too thick and slipped off shredded the boot. Now I’m back to square one. Maybe I’ll try and find some crimp style clamps that fit.
Yep. Got a sledge and hit it till I almost cried and it came loose. U sanded it down to get it back in easier? Also no matter how hard I yank on these clamps I can still make the boot rotate back and forth on the cv.
I gave up for the day. U can’t even get the damn thing started back through the hub. I have to chill or imma break every fucking window out of this truck. Ha!
@@JedKoll yeah its tough. Took me a couple days. To go back in you have to use the axle like a hammer on itself to get the spline back into the hub enough to get the axle nut started. Then you can use a piece of metal or wood to turns against the wood to pull the spline through while turning the axle nut. Its quite the process
Yup got it through enough to get the hub and nut back on. Now everytime I get it into transmission the other axle pops out. Struggling to get the axles flush with the transmission. This is the worst fuckin job ever. But I appreciate the help.
