Honda Acty Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement.  

Thanks Keith!

You got it Robert! Thanks for the positive feedback. If it helps one person it’s time well spent.

You got it Frankie. Better shrink those hands for this job buddy. LOL

Thanks!

Thank you and welcome to the channel! Ive always got something in the works so stay tuned!

Good luck! It’s a little beast, but doable obviously! LOL. Hit me up on IG if you have any questions while working on it. @RHD_Ron

@@rhd_ron awesome. Just followed you

@@petescarport Thanks Pete! Much appreciated

Much appreciated! YOUR Page has been a big help as well. Thanks for that Rob!

Thanks Gordon! Hope it helped!

Glad to help!

Haha! Thanks Nick! Glad this helped. Yeah, I actually did a coolant flush the other day but didn’t film it. There are times to film and times not to film depending on my schedulez filming more than doubles the time to do any job so I pick my battles. Next one up and I’ll video. Thanks!

Yes it is doable with no lift. I can say it's a pretty tough job just removing the timing belt covers. The leaf spring gets in the way. Other than that, pretty standard Honda timing belt replacement.

Let us know how your timing belt looked when you took it off. Always curious to get data on old age/low mileage belts. I know 15 year old belts are typically pretty good looking and 20 year tend to get iffy, but both usually have substantial mileage behind them. I'm in the camp that there's no need to risk messing something up when it's running well if it's not really needed. One loose screw or a timing belt tooth off will be a lot worse than running a perfectly fine belt a few more years, so I try to not take that risk until the risk of imminent failure is worse.

Yeah when I did mine I marked the tension bolt with a sharpie to put the new one back in the same spot. There is a deflection guide but I don't have it available. I've done many many Honda belts, I kind of just know how much slack they need. Doesn't help others though, sorry about that.

Thank you for the comment!

Seems very popular in Japan

Thanks Curtis! Glad to help. I use Permatex Ultra Grey from the parts store, or Honda Bond if you can get it from the dealer. Crank and cam seals are right behind the crank gear/cam gear. Holding that crank still while busting the bolt loose is tough. Honda makes a special tool but not sure if it’s available in the States.

Yes good observation. There is a procedure with the use of a deflection gauge in the book. I try to mark the location of the bolt on the tensioner and go back to that same spot. Ive done TONS of Honda/Acura tbelts, I take for granted my “mechanics feel” for the right amount of tension. Lol.

It’s all we got! LOL

Thanks for the feedback Chris! Yes, I'll see what I can muster up for a coolant flush video. I actually flushed and vented that trucks system from just the bleed screws on the Intake Manifold and jacking the truck WAY up in the front to make the radiator the high point. If I would have had a thermostat with me I would have changed it with the pump. It's on the backside of the water pump housing and I could see it with the pump off. Take care!

Could very well be too tight of a belt. Make sure you have some deflection. Thats why I mark the tension idler bolt to know approximately where to put it back for tightening purposes.

Its a pretty standard “honda” timing belt job. A shop that is good with Hondas/Acuras should have no problem. Thanks

Not yet! Had one lined up but couldnt get to it in time.

@allthingzjdm is where I get my parts. They have a Facebook Group called "Exporting AllthingzJDM" check them out! Thanks.

@@rhd_ron thank you !!!

Possibly but as cheap as the timing belts are its good to do them while you are there.

Yes I'm near Chattanooga. We can definitely work something out if you want to bring it over this way! Thanks for watching!

That is your catalytic converter. It means it is getting too hot. Typically when they get old and clog up they get hot and trigger that light. Some people knock the packing out, or some replace it.

@@rhd_ron Hey Ron thanks for the feedback I sent you a message on Instagram

I would try Smokey Mountain Imports. They may have a Service Manual Available. That’s where I got mine free with a $50 purchase! Thanks for the comment.

Yes, you will be able to move the crank to align timing marks with the belt off. Align the timing at the crank, and the two marks on the cam gear with the head, then go back with the belt. It will take you several iterations to get it right. Always check with full revolution of the crank and cam gears that everything comes back to where you started. Thanks!

Thanks Ron, followed your advice, truck starts and runs!

@@theophiluszuniga9829 Hey hey! Congrats. It's a task.

Thank you! No, no lift needed however it makes it quite a bit easier. Years of rolling around on concrete floors working on cars has taken it’s toll. Glad to have the lift! Lol

I did mine in my front yard with a jack and jackstands. A lift would make this job a bit easier. At least easier on your body lol

@@mikester1472 oh buddy. Ive been there. Very fortunate to have the garage and lift now.

You have to lift the valve cover to get that upper timing belt cover off unfortunately. Makes the job that much "Bigger" because you then need to apply sealant on the corners of the valve cover gasket where it goes over the cam.

Thanks for the comment! Not sure where you’re located but maybe something could be worked out depending on where you are.

@@rhd_ron Hello Ron Happy Thanksgiving day, I'm located in the Miami area, thanks for your time.alex

I got the motor mount off. I let it sit in pb blaster for a bit and it came loose with a breaker bar. The motor mount bracket was a pain to remove. Lots of up and down with floor jack. Finally moving foward. Thanks for the video; very helpful!

now i'm stuck trying to get the crank pulley bolt off.

Yeah some of these are long time partners with the frame. Just takes some “ugh-tuugggaa”.

You can try loosening that engine mount right under the frame rail by the tbelt cover to lower the engine or drop the leaf spring on that side. Support the torsion bar if you do that. Good luck!

Hey Jack, I did not. You may want to make sure the tension on the belt is not TOO tight. That is typically the case when there is a whine. Thanks.

Thanks ron

Yep! Should be the same. Just a little different to get to on top due to the engine cover inside the van.

Should be okay without if you can get the upper timing cover off without removing the valve cover.

Sorry for the late response! Book says (9.5 kg.m) which is about 69 ft-lbs. Thanks!

I actually do not have a street sticker but I've seen them on other Vans. They just say "STREET" if I recall correctly. Thanks,

With filming like 10 hours. I can do a timing belt, water pump, and seal job on these in about 4-5 hours. No rush, just taking it cautiously.

Passenger side under the dash. There’s a little cover with wing-nuts. Underneath the wing nuts is the radiator cap.

Thank you for the feedback

Dont stress! You need to slowly and methodically move the cam gear a bit to get the valves in a different closed position. Then you will be able to turn the crank back into position. Move the cam, move the crank until you get the crank lined back up. Then set your cam again. It’s not moving because you are getting piston to valve interference. Be careful.

Hmmm, you've removed the mount to the chassis right there? Let it down with a jack? Are you referring to the timing belt cover, one of the 10mm shoulder bolts?

@@rhd_ron yes I removed that first mount but the bracket right behind it I’m having trouble getting to the top bolt as the engine lowering doesn’t get it low enough to access. Almost as if I’d need to remove the engine mount. In the rear of the truck as well

@@_Quicklo ohhh, the engine bracket with three 14mm bolts. That top one you have to get to from the top with a box end wrench.

I dont recall 10mm bolts on the alternator pulley. Do you mean the crankshaft pulley by chance?

​@@rhd_ron I may have named it wrong, the part in the video that you point it out is 5:40, though I will mention my '96 Acty has another cover to the right of that pulley with another belt connected to it at about a 45° angle. I didn't take it off tonight I plan on doing that tomorrow but maybe that has something to do with it.

My Acty is the first vehicle I've ever worked on so I still have a lot to learn but your videos have been a big help, thank you!

​@@rhd_ron well it turns out the belt that goes to the right is for the AC compressor and I ended up needing an impact wrench to get the bolts off the crankshaft pulley without it rotating

The alternator bolt or the engine mount bracket bolt? Both are TOUGH!

@@rhd_ron the engine mount bolt. The alternator bolt will be next. Hitting it with pb blaster, I have a swivel link for the tight spot and even using an impact.

A whole list of things really. Ignition system, fuel system or carb solenoids.

So they are not in the book. BUT, the same size bolts are used in my other hondas and THEIR books say 43 ft-lbs for the 17mm bolts, and typically the 14mm bolts are 33 ft-lbs. Thats what I go to when I cannot find values. Hope that helps!

She’s a star🤩

Minny Appearance! Lol.