You really know your stuff. I watched this video to learn about brake caliper rebuilding, and I learned other things like vinegar for rust removal, that they make actually spray paint for brake calipers, what a square cut gasket is (first time I heard the term), and more. Thank you very much for creating this. I'm glad I watched this.
Thanks for this tutorial, very helpful. As suggested, I used a pick to remove that stubborn bottom part inside the caliper and also, at the same time, shook it off by ''softly'' taping it with a screwdriver, like a Robertson #1, thru the bleeding port. But, in my opinion, with this type of caliper, a DIY rebuild is to much work and a bit tricky, especially installing the piston rubber booth. Next time I will get a new or rebuild set of calipers.
Just ordered a kit for both rear calipers for my 97 Prelude. Thanks for making this video dude. I'll be watching this video everyday until it comes to give myself a fighting chance!
Good video. Got the right lighting on everything. A few good tips as well. Helped me out a ton. I know lots of people will just buy new calipers but it was way cheaper this way and I enjoyed doing it.
excellent video .. I had a huge fiddle to replace the dust shield on my citroen c6 caliper .. the problem was corrosion build up in the locating groove . a cutoff disc in my Dremel got rid of the rust and the lip on the dust rubber boot located exactly like your video shows .. Well done . shame about the sticky paint job .
"Caliper paint" is different from normal spray paint in the fact that it is made to withstand the higher temperatures associated with brake systems in general. The same idea applies to engine paint but brakes experience more heat than engines assuming you didn't overheat the engine past the point of no return. Sadly, caliper paint is still paint and as such DOT 3 brake fluid removes it in a real hurry so don't get any brake fluid on any paint you want to keep. Powder coating seems to be the only thing able to withstand brief exposure to brake fluid. If you know of something else I'd love to hear it.
A caliper this rusted will rust again. Speaking from my experience, I went through hell doing all the same thing you did but for all of my 4 calipers. I cleaned them with a wire brush and spray painted them with the proper paint. It rusted through in a week. Then I repeated the whole thing but this time I sandblasted the calipers and then powdercoated them. I was starting to see some return of the rust pitting on one of the calipers while waiting for the powdercoat so the guy painting them used some strong chemical. After that I rebuilt them. They turned out great (copper brown color) but in 12 months I see signs of rust again. Still not as bad as after the spray paint. Just a heads up for you mate. Great video!
Good vid. Honda uses expensive grease and I'd use what they do as Honda rear calipers suck when operated in road salt in winter conditions. The internal grease is premium. Should also use brake cleaner to degrease all the caliper parts. Snap ting pliers work bet and Honda OEM motorcycle ones are primo. Also the part you said and a slit in it is actually a seal. Some seals have a spring in the groove at the back side helping the seal to maintain contact with the part in question. The grove side usually is towards the inside of whatever it's sealing. My the way your narration is excellent, good job.
Did this for my del sol a few years ago. Mainly watched this to see how you got the piston boot on. This was a fun project and this video describes the process well.
The mech a nic sadly I sold the car a year or two later. I did a full rear disc swap, ss lines and es trailing arm bushings all at once. Made such a difference with that car! The work I did was rock solid for the rest of my time with it.
Sounds nice, I'm putting together a rear disk conversion. I have a video of it up already. Not sure what car I'll get but I'm leaning towards a del sol because more likely to not be as rusty
Awesome, thank you so much. I am just going to replace the caliper boot I think.. and the flat ring... after seeing you disassemble the entire caliper and difficulties I might have. I found the boot torn, though it was my first brake job and I may have torn it by pushing the piston in.. I do think it was already jammed up though. My previous comments are gone thanks to youtube adding the date back :)
Great video, my caliper on a 95gsr seized up, looks like they rebuilt both of them at 1 point on the rear and did not replace the piston and put the brackets on backwards so the pins were upside down and seized the gold slider pins were on top. The pick idea to get the bottom piece inside the caliper was the only way I could and I got lucky as it was bone dry, no brake fluid. Ill be sparing with the red tacky grease I decided to go with at the points you greased and reuse what I have. In the near future rebuild both rear calipers in tandem really, get into the bracket holes, replace the pins and pistons but this will get it into working condition. Just sharing my fun from a basic brake job gone array!
If you notice, the gold and grey Pin, the bracket usually has a gold and dark hole. The gold pin has 4 flat sides and is goes onto the bottom whole, It doesn't seem like it but the brackets have a Left and Right to ensure the gold is on the bottom, but when they are rusted its hard to see. Im sure this is what caused my pins to seize since both were in the grey wholes.
Hi, This is the same model of rear caliper on Honda Jazz. I'm going to use your tutorial to redo mine. For rust removal, some use a phosphoric acid bath.
Use white vinegar and salt the salt makes the vinegar work better. You have to leave the part in 24 hours or more. It will work. Nice job on the caliper. Looks good!!
Finally doing this for my two sets of calipers, i found that the easiest way in 5:50 is just hit the caliper against something and that piece will come out.
Turn the handbrake axle bolt thingy with your hand and try to figure out when its at the top position and the it should fall out when you give it a couple bangs
John- experiment this: DOT 3 NON synthetic brake fluid will strip "paint" off of everything. Soak it, brush it, write your name on something. 2-3 days later, bare metal. "Caliper" and "engine" paint is very special. It is thicker, has a hotter reducer, and usually contains ceramic powder. After sand blasting- liberally brush & rinse with 91% Isopropyl, then spray or brush the coating. Wait 10 minutes, apply 2nd coat. 1 hour later- either bake in electric oven at 300℉ for one hour, or use a heat gun to cure and flow the coating in a cardboard box with heat gun, outside only- even your Shop oven- outside only, not your food oven! Do not handle the part until fully baked/heated and cured 24 hours. Nothing is impervious to brake fluid- it strips everything. Regular "paint" is not ceramic heat paint.
Just something to add. The pin for the ebrake spins on roller bearings. These bearings are not replaceable as far as I know, If they fall off the cage, your ebrake is never going to fully release and the pads will drag until worn.
Great instructional video the best I've ever seen so far to know all the details about brake calipers, clear picture and sound professional work, for most of DIY I would just buy a new one, but its good to know how they function. Thank you for taking the time and effort. A+
I rebuilt the front calipers on my Accord but, I'll just buy new ones for the back and paint them myself. The rear calipers are a little more complicated with the added mechanisms for the parking break. I used the Rustoleum caliper paint on them and they look great. My breaks stop so much better now that they are painted. Ha ha.
Also as i type i have a set of calipers cooking in the electrolysis bath to remove massive amounts of rust. Its falling off when i just checked them. Much better than vinegar.
The mech a nic i put bolts in vinegar but its for 3 or 4 days and still need a good wire brush for a few minutes. But found i have lost some material on the threads this way. Not good.
I have used spray engine enamel when i did mine. Hung them up next to a blow heater to cure the paint for 30 mins. Brake fluid runs off them no problem.
Might the regular chassis grease you used for assembly of internal parts and rubber seals attack the seals and swell them? Use the special caliper grease you showed?
So after fighting half hour with pick tool to remove the last piece i realized in the middle there is small hole. Just hit it with a rubber tip air gun and it pops out no problem. (and when you do that, the nipple bleeder screw have to be closed)
Thumbs up. This is a very good video. You really know your stuff. I agree that that paint is garbage and just a gimmick. I tried it once, and it never cured. It stayed tacky for days, and I ended up stripping it off. I suspect that the axle grease you put inside the caliper will not be good in the long run, but I hope I'm wrong. Subscribed.
@@themechanic6117 That's reasonable, but I mean that I don't think any petroleum grease is going to be compatible with brake fluid. One is polar, and one is not. It's like trying to mix oil and vinegar. Again, I hope I'm wrong.
As I understand it, you are not supposed to use a petroleum based grease for brake systems because it degrades the rubber seals. Silicone grease is what is typically used.
if you are having a hard time getting that cup in the bottom out with a pick, or you dont have a pick. you can slam it upside down on a piece of wood and it should drop out, actuate the emergency brake a few times to loosen it too.
I bought some of hooks like you, and then I tried a lot to follow your step to do; unfortunately I am failure to separate the part in the hole, did I need some special tool to do? Or you have any further suggested to me? Thanks!
Excellent video thanks - can the banjo bolt and brake line be left on the car while caliper is being rebuilt? Like it won't leak any fluids or get air in the system?
He's right. Caliper paint sucks, I've tried many. Spray and brush on. Last year I tried Rust-Oleum hammered metal paint and it's been holding up really well. I did paint them on the car after bleeding the brakes and cleaning them up a bit. P.S. brake fluid even removed POR-15 off of a set a calipers I've used that on.
I was surprised and disappointed about that as well. I might as well also mention, the white vinegar would've needed much more time, 4 days roughly. Works best on really hot days, pull it out to wash and wire brush it off daily. Too bad we're all not skilled enough and have the time to use electrolysis and plating.
To get a stuck slide pin out I put the bolt back in part way, put a wrench in the gap and then hit the wrench with a hammer so that the impact will pull the slide pin out. One of the pins has flats and you shouldn't be twisting it back and forth in an effort to get it out.
One more trick to get piston in is to use aluminium can, cut it apart and use it to flex the boot so you can drop the piston in without need to put the boot on piston.
Great video ! I have a 2006 TSX and just replaced both rear wheel brake calipers, rotors, and pads and now my parking brake cable does not put enough pressure on the brake pads. I can see the cable and the boots compressed and I do get a little braking but not like I did with my old parts. I bled the brakes and they seem to work fine. Any suggestions ? I'm thinking I have a bad re-manufactured caliper. Thanks in advance.
naval jelly takes 24 hrs at 60 degrees or more because its heavy it works and actually turns the rust back int o metal the dark back is normal soak the whole thing keep it wet let it dry then pressure wash after that use the wire whelk its be great the black i8s normal its the best
cider vinegar is more effective than white. when you have a lot of rust it takes a long time though. wire brush, then rinse with water, then vinegar, then wire brush. caliper paint is more for the high temperatures as i understand it. But yeah, they tend to suck.
great vid! the inner pad with the little pin should fit into the slot on the capiler piston, but if the caliper piston is going counter clockwise when pressing the brake pedal- how it will turn? the brake pad cant turn.. im confused
The new guide pin shown on the left was too snug in the bore. It's not supposed to touch the walls at all, but ride on the seal. It will seize. The new guide pin shown on the left was too snug in the bore. It's not supposed to touch the walls at all, but ride on the seal. It will seize. The guide pin bores and the cylinder should have been reamed out using a fitted drill operated in reverse and cleaned before painting (paint adds nothing to performance of bad internals) and remaining rust in them will cause the rebuilt caliper to fail. Paint over-spray where the seals fit will cause problems White vinegar by itself will dissolve rust, but is slow, and it seems to be related to the volume of vinegar used, the thickness of the rust, and whether the rust is g=free of oils.. Adding salt to the vinegar would have helped, but without applying an electrical voltage and an anode to the mix, it could take days.
That's for all the info this caliper is still sitting on the shelf so I could still revisit it to make it right. I found sand blasting to be the easiest n fastest
I’m going to run a staging break setup and no e brake cables. Can I leave out the e break pets or do I need to rebuild, without cable, to retainer pressure
