Red Rubber Grease is totally compatible with DOT 4 fluids. It can be used to pack the dust boot to prevent ingress of salt and muck...unlike the Dot 4 fluid.
@@FastFixRU-vid There is no need to pack the boot the boot will allow air to pass but not water or dirt. If you pack it it could make the boot pop off under air pressure.
@@FastFixRU-vid You do NOT have to install the dust seal over the large dia. part of the piston first as you did here! Just install it into the indent on the piston where it is supposed to seat, and then push the piston into the bore all the way, and then push the rubber seal in with your fingers into the outer bore indent where it is supposed to seat, it goes in no problem at all! Then install the metal ring, and your done!
DO NOT crimp the brake hose line this guy did! Unless you want more problems. Here's how to do it: Before you remove the brake line, disconnect the battery. Slightly depress the brake pedal. Slightly less than 1/2 inch after the pedal touches the pushrod and use something like a stick or dowel to hold it there. Now get to work. Doing this moves the piston past the inlet and return ports of the master cylinder so no fluid can leak down from the reservoirs. You'll just get a few drops out. If it's a metal line going in I clean and place the dust cap from the bleeder over the line if it's going to be apart for a while. You disconnect your battery because you probably don't want your brake lights on while you're working. DON'T CRIMP YOUR BRAKE HOSES KIDS!
Interesting advice as I was about to purchase some clamps so called supposedly for brake lines!! Well so much for that!!! I never liked the pink colour of the clamps anyway!! I'm not a pink guy!! (yeah right)
You put a board between the driver seat and brake pedal and move the seat forward to where the brake pedal is pressed like 1/2" forward and then stop. Then disconnect the battery and you shouldn't get brake fluid leak.
PLEASE don't crimp a rubber brake line. You can collapse the inner lining and then when you apply your brakes, the fluid travels down the brake line to the caliper as it should. However when you release the pedal, because the hose is internally collapsed it acts as a 1 way check valve, the fluid cannot return back through the hose, therefore the caliper remains seized. Another method to keep all the fluid from dripping from the brake hose when you remove it, is to press the brake pedal in about 1/2in with an extendable rod, or I've even used a brick. This means the brake lights will stay on, so you may want to disconnect the battery. (Remember your radio code) No more than 1/2in tho, that way the piston inside the master cylinder is moved from its resting state and mostly covers the holes leading down to the brake lines, therefore drastically slowing the drip of the fluid. Great vid, just wanted to pass that info forward.
That is an excellent tip. Hadn’t thought of that one. Figured the crimp method wasn’t ideal, but didn’t know of a work around either. Thanks for this it’s greatly appreciated.
U can remove caliper but leave attached to car. Pess break peddle with pads removed. It should just pop out. Then gently clamp hose and undo banjo bolt.
Hello. Yep, that’s what I tell folks who don’t have access to compressed air. If it were me without compressed air, I’d probably forgo the rebuild and buy a reman. No thanks on the mess 😂 Thank you for the comment and suggestion 👍👍👍
An alternative way to get the boot back onto the piston is to seat the boot in its groove in the caliper, then slide the piston into the boot most of the way. Put a piece of 2 x 4 in front of the piston. Apply air from the back of the caliper and it should push the boot forward into its groove on the piston.
Hello! Yes, I forgot to film that part. The retaining ring/clip is installed last to retain the boot as you mentioned. There’s a machined groove that’s unmistakeable and where the ring fits into. 👍
I think I have a similar sound, on the pedal release tho, if I remember correctly. After discovering both front discs were scorching hot last week, I deattched the calipers from the discs and tested them by pressing and pumping them today. Front left seemed a bit harder to press in. Then, pumping the brakes to push both pistons out simmultaneously, the front left traveled less distance compared to the front right. Also, part of the dust boot on the front left is not stretching out evenly around the piston. So, I'll be doing the seal rebuild this week. Anyone thinking this is the reason for the brake/caliper drag on both discs? OT, I've learned that air in brake lines/master cylinder can cause a sinking pedal, but can it cause brake drags? @Fast Fix, did you replace the piston too? Did the rebuild eliminate the noise? Also, did you have any brake drag?
Hello. Yes, I replaced the piston and the seals. I didn’t have any brake drag...not sure what can cause that, but master cylinder malfunctions and sticking cylinders seem like likely causes. Best of luck!
Happend upon this video randomly glad to see people still out here rebuilding brake calipers. It's trial and error with the dust shield but once you have done a couple you can be in and out in like 20 min start to finish. $4.99-$12.99 vs $100-$300 well worth the little bit of effort to fix it. Me I rebuilt the whole thing. Replace the slide pin boots and bleeder valve as well. Literally cost me a total of $10-$20 per caliper and thats all they do in china with your core you give back then ship it back out to be sold as a remanufactured caliper.
Exactly right! So so much cheaper to do it this way and if you’ve got experience, you’re gonna be able to knock this out pretty quickly with little frustration. Most people are doing this for the first time, but hopefully after they completed once they’ll be able to do it again and again in the future and save a good amount of money. Great work and thanks for the comment!
saved me after I destroyed the original and i did not want to ruin the new one going on/in thank you so much.I've watched it again just to refresh my brain rebuilt the left side and now the right side thanks again man !
This did save me. I rebuilt one rear caliper last year. Used a little pick to get the piston seal in. Pushing it with your fingers is much better, and a lot less select words.
@@FastFixRU-vid no joke, I did the other rear, and giving up after an hour, pacing for about 15 minutes, I came back to this video and was done in maybe 5. I’m forever thankful you made this video lol
Crimping brake lines & therefore leaving them to possible future damage is a damn ongoing hassle & I never know what the hell to really do?? Same say its ok but equally others say don't even think of doing it!! Appreciate some comments here please!! Personally I'm not happy myself with this practise & often refrain from implementing it in any case, I very much doubt if brake lines were actually designed to be distorted & abused to this degree!!
Hello. You’re absolutely right. Crimping should be a last resort or a total no-no, but you’ll often find it to be a common practice, even at reputable repair shops. There are tools to help, but I’ve heard they’re cumbersome and unreliable thus, the ongoing bad practice. My lines were fine after crimping, but I’d not recommend doing it. At your own risk type of thing.
Didnt realize till like 6 hours ago calipers can be rebuilt, so im going to jump to it and do the same on my pickup. Beats paying a lot for new calipers, and just as easy to snap in a new piston as it is to replace a whole caliper. Good video!
I hear ya! I didn’t think about rebuilding until I got quoted the price for a new one. It’s definitely easier to buy rebuilt, but if you can rebuild for a fraction of the cost, why not? Just keep in mind it’s a bit tedious and will take some time 👍
Yup! But when you try to get a caliper rebuild kit(seal & dust boot) at a parts store they look puzzled & tell you caliper rebuild kits don't return anything on there computer search. They want to hose you by selling an overpriced rebuilt for 60$ or more. The kits are around 10$ & they don't make as much if they sold them.
Don't know if it's because I'm female or guys just like to assume I don't know anything. But my Volvo has very expensive parts and usually way too much money. $600 Canadian per caliper. I already replaced the back caliper and started seeing the videos for repairing the calipers. Now I'm hearing "you should never cheap out on parts" "it's incredibly dangerous to repair the calipers, just buy new ones" and garages actually getting angry at me for asking... This seems pretty simple and my calipers were in fine working condition before they were pressed in by the wrong tool, the wrong way.. the repair kits I found are only the gaskets. Should I replace the entire piston?
Should have used the brake pedal to push the piston out. Much more controllable and will work every time. Compressed air will fail to get EVERY stuck piston out.
The job is a bit more tricky than 1.5 rating. Anyone trying this need to know you may damge other components trying to fix this. I would rate this 2.5 out of 5. 😊
@@FastFixRU-vid hahaha, im currently doing all the underneath rear of one of my cars, all undersealed now, calipers are getting rebuilt and painted and fitting braided brake lines
Crimping the brake line is like bending a phone cord in one spot over and over and then expecting the inside to be fine and charge your phone. The pressure from clamping even once a brake line that’s starting to deteriorate inside can break the inside of the hose structure enough to cause the pressure to not flow right and your new caliper to cease from a lack of brake line pressure..
Hello. To be honest, I do not remember. I’m sure there was a reason why I did that, but I suppose it’s also possible that I left in some footage that I shouldn’t have. Simply evaluate the situation when you go to do the repair and the answer should be self evident. Thanks for the question and have a good one!
Yes, sorry about that. Put it in at the very end. You’ll see the area where it’s supposed to go. There’s a groove machined into the cylinder near the top. It helps keep the boot in place. You just need to compress it slightly and place it in…not much to it. I hope this helps. Feel free to update the thread if you have issues. Thanks.
Short answer is yes, you will. The only other way I know of is to remove the caliper and depress the brake which will force out the piston. It’ll be messy… have a bucket on hand to catch the brake fluid. It’s highly corrosive to paint amongst other things. Best of luck!
Done this several times... Dont buy it people. That seal will fight you til death. Hours of panicky pressing, having it hopping of the ledge where you dont press. Finally having you condcider screw drivers or such tools ending up with you puncturing your new seal and throwing it all in the wall. If that was your daily drivers caliper and the car on jack stands. Well, hope that you have an alternate car to use.
Hello. Yes, you’re absolutely right with the things that could happen when completing this repair. That’s why I believe it to be an individual choice on how much you could possibly save if things go right versus how much new caliper would be. Getting the remanufactured calipers definitely the easier option and honestly something I would probably do most of the time unless there was a significant amount of money I could save by repairing it myself. Otherwise it’s like they say keep a simple stupid. Thanks for commenting and have a good one!
Im rebuilding a1990 Honda Prelude 4WS and everything under the hood and wheel wells is basically BLACK with thick grime. Good thing about being covered in 30 years of grime is once its cleaned off, you can see all the original metal treatments and coatings. I always thought the calipers were a grey color(online rebuilt calipers for sale are a dull grey due to being soaked in acid bath to remove said black grime but also removes any metal protection treatment) but in reality, they're a golden zinc color. I spent days gently cleaning and soaking in simple green. Lightly scrubbing with a brass wire brush. Lo and behold, the once velvet black calipers are now a greenish gold zinc color! I keep imaging how they looked new, contrasting off the silver rotors. I don't know if i should paint them with a high temp rotor paint tho just for future weather and temp proofing because, even tho the zinc coating looks great, i don't think it will hold up much longer and some areas have been scrubbed off almost completely. But man they look awesome tho! 30yo calipers that most ppl just toss out or replace for the dull grey "rebuilt" calipers(basically same exact calipers just acid bathed and rebuilt). Shoot i might just buy the online ones, paint them and save the zinc ones for posterity lol
Wow, I love this comment! I’m also a fan of the zinc color and if pressed, would keep it zinc for as long as possible. But you said it yourself, already worn off in areas and will soon giveaway to rust. I like the idea of keeping them around for posterity. Nice garage decoration 👍
You’re very welcome! I hope it goes well for you. Videos generally make projects appear easier than they are, however with patience and a little know-how this is a very doable job. 👍 Best of luck to you!
Something that gets overlooked quite often when rebuilding a caliper because the vast majority of people don't know about this - is the seal that fits in the bore is tapered and needs to be installed so that it faces the correct direction. The seal is tapered so that the piston will slightly retract when there is no fluid pressure on the caliper. This keeps the pad from pushing into the rotor when the pedal is released and causing premature pad wear. People may not believe this is true but it is indeed a 100 percent verifiable fact
I have a question: i have a 98 camry and today was doing my brakes and having taken the brake pads off, i accidently pressed my brakes too much and had one of the caliper came out too much. it's not going in no metter how much i try. one friend said the caliper is out of the housing and i need a new one. is there a way to get it in? or do i just need to buy a new one?
Hello. I assume you mean ‘piston’ when you say the ‘caliper’ came out. It should go back in. I bet the metal retainer ring is keeping it from seating back in the cylinder. So, remove the rubber boot and inspect the cylinder. If the retainer ring is still installed, remove it. The piston should go back in when you make sure nothing is blocking it. Hope this helps. Best of luck 👍
Hello. Everyday wear and tear is normally to blame. Although it might appear to be fine, if you’re seeing leaking fluid, best bet is to rebuild or replace. Especially if you can’t tell where the leak is coming from.
I didn’t do any measuring as I researched the part and knew it was correct for this caliper. To be safe, I suppose I should have, but it worked so I assume was gtg. Thanks for the comment 👍
I had replaced the brake pads on my vehicle before but this time I wanted to remove the calipers clean them up and I couldn't figure out how to get the piston out. They were roofing a house across the street and I asked him if I could use a little air no problem I didn't know if it would work or not but what I was doing wasn't working an the compressed air shot that piston out of there like a bullet anyhow nobody got hit thank goodness. The reason I did it previously was because one of the seals had been pulled out and there was all kinds of dirt in there and that's why that particular caliper was getting stuck closed. No damage to the seal they were fines I'm re-overhauling them again right now.
No grease go inside that piston how it slides back and forth if there's no grease in it you put it back in dry is that the way it's supposed to be and if it is wouldn't that just cause a lot of wear if it's sliding back and forth and back and forth and it's dry
Hello. I may have not shown in the video, but use DOT 3 fluid to lubricate the piston. Yes, putting it in dry could cause premature wear on the part. However, the piston would get lubricated when the brakes were used, so it'd only by "dry" for a moment.
That soft line is completely ruined now. There is stell reinforcements in that rubber line. You collapsed it by vice gripping it. Not hating just dont that next time. Just point it up so I doesnt leak. Again not hating just a tech tip. :)
I didn't put it in service mode. THEN stupidly applied service mode then un-did service mode...leaving my rear caliper piston pushed completely out, and wont go back in. My rear brakes are was already out when i applied the eBrakes. So I can't push it in cause I now know I need to be IN service mode. WHAT DO I DO?? 2017 Jeep cherokee limited awd 4x4 4cy rear brake
Hello. If I’m understanding your situation, the Ebrakes were engaged after you had already removed the piston? Now, the piston won’t go back in? If this is the case, can you see anything in the cylinder that’s prohibiting the piston from being installed? Does the piston go back in at all or can you not even get it started?
I have a ripped boot on my caliper and might try a rebuild if possible to save some money. I dont have compressed air to push the piston out. Are there any other ways to get it out?
Hello. Yes, there are. You can always remove the pads and the caliper, depress the brake and get it out that way. You’ll spill fluid all over, however. Best of luck!
Hello. I’m not sure I’m understanding your question completely, but yes the seal should slide down the entire piston. It won’t cover the piston, just fits into the lip of the caliper. Hope that helps.
Hello. Yes, that piece of footage was regrettably left out. However, it is the last thing to install simply slip it over the boot into the groove. You can’t miss it. I hope everything works out! Thanks for commenting and have a great day.
Note that it's not the rubber piston sealing ring that causes the problem but of course the damaged dust cover that's responsible for letting water in and causing the piston to become rusty. The rust then causes the friction and may eventually lead tot leakage. So, if you notice a damaged dust cover then you can begin right away with your repair job as this will inevitably lead to the mentioned brake problems.
I have a small tear on the outside of my outer seal of one of my calipers. I'm not seeing any brake fluid come out of the caliper. Will that be a problem as far as brake caliper function or is it the inner seal which creates the seal, and the outer is just prevents dirt/dust from getting into the piston area?
Hello. Good question. The inner seal does keep the fluid in. The outer seal protects the cylinder from dirt, debris and brake dust. So, the caliper will function normally until too much debris gets in and starts to cause problems. They can last for quite some time with a torn outer seal, so my usual advice is to replace it when it starts to make noise. Hope this helps.
Once the outer seal is torn. Dirt and water will get inside and rust up the caliper around the inner seal. This will corrode and pit the piston which will then seize up. You can get seal and piston kits to refurbish calipers.
The replies here are correct: corrosion and seizure WILL happen. I reckon ALL the many calipers I've fixed or replaced, failed because either the piston outer seal was split or because the handbrake shaft was split - both causing corrosion then seizure. The repair kits with the seals are very cheap (~£6) and easy to fit.
You could try, but guessing a hand pump will be difficult. You can disconnect the caliper and push the brakes to remove them, but it will be messy. Thanks for the question and best of luck.
If you are not sure which way the boot should go on look at the old one to see if there are any markings such as manufacturer or even a part number scribed on the boot. With genuine Toyota boots ,the markings face out. I will be doing this job soon using genuine honda and will report back
Hello. There have been some useful suggestions for people that don’t have air compressors so search the comments a little bit and hopefully you will find something useful. The only thing I’m aware of is leaving the caliper mounted after removing the brake disk. If you depress the brakes, the pistons will pop out of there, but so will all of the brake fluid so it’s pretty messy. I hope you figure something out! Thanks for commenting. Have a good one!
Hello. The metal ring secures the rubber boot to the caliper. Notice a groove machined into the cylinder near the outside. The boot goes in, then the ring goes in to secure the boot. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question and best of luck to you.
You can keep it attached to the caliper then depress the brakes. It’ll be a mess, but that’s another way. Prob a better alternative that I’m not aware of. Hope this helps
Hello. There are ways! A few good ideas in the comment section that I don’t remember off hand, but if push comes to shove, you can always use the brakes to pop them out. It will be messy!
Hello. The metal ring secures the boot to the caliper. Look on the outer edge of the cylinder. There will be a groove. That groove is where the ring goes. The ring is installed last right after you install the boot. In other words, the ring secures the boot to the caliper. Hope this helps.
@@FastFixRU-vidyour caption says to install the ring between the piston and the dust shield. Shouldn’t the ring sit on top of the shield (on the grove) so it’s between the shield and the caliper?
Hello. BE advised that There is probably safe mode to operate on your rear brakes. I have an electric parking brake on my truck and I have to go through a few programming steps to enable “brake safety mode.” Fear is engaging the electronic brake on accident and losing a finger or two. Best of luck!
Watched this in a rush after accidentally shooting out the last piston on my front Brembos while pushing all the others in. Definitely, definitely came in handy!!
@@jonwheeler3396 you don't pinch off brake lines lmao, you can collapse the line and generally lots of them are made of braided stainless steel with a rubber coated exterior
@@rYan-qo9si what does "collapse the line" mean exactly? Because that's essentially my goal when "crimping" the brake line. I want to "collapse" the line so I can disconnect without everything pouring fluid everywhere. There will be no leaks after my job when I pressure test the system. Fluid will flow correctly. It won't fail unless human error tightens it way too much. Thats what the cardboard is for. To be more forgiving. It's just skill bruh I'm still here after all these years
How far did you get it in? Make sure you removed the bolt that holds the brake line on. I made that mistake and couldn’t understand why the piston would not seat completely. Let me know how it goes.
@@FastFixRU-vid I did. I actually have the entire caliper off the car and cannot get it back in after setting it and using a c-clamp. I dnt wanna use a hammer but can I?
@@AngryAnR hello. Definitely don’t use a hammer. Something is wrong if you’re reaching for the hammer. I’ve been there, then regretted it. Ha. There must be something binding up the piston. Have you removed it then checked for obstructions? Look at the cylinder walls and make sure they’re smooth. If you see a gouge or something similar that probably means the piston didn’t go in square and roughed up the walls. Also, measure the piston and make sure it’s the right size. Could be that it’s too long and bottoming out. I wish I could see what’s happening and offer an precise solution, but unfortunately we can’t accomplish that through comment threads. If you can’t get it to seat you might have to bite the bullet and get a remanufactured one from the store. I’ve had to do that in the past and assume I’ll need to do it again at some point. Sometimes, it’s just necessary to quit and go for something you know will work. Sucks, but it happens. Best of luck and feel free to update this thread.
@@FastFixRU-vid everything is ok. i dont get it at all. i had to break down and go get a replacement tho. i could not figure it out for the life of me. i even took it to a shop and they couldnt see why it wouldnt go in. just one of those things i guess. i truly appreciate all the feedback. until the next fix.......take care
Good question. I’d say it’s not detrimental if you’re only using the carb cleaner for a limited time and making sure to wipe the surface dry right away. The cleaners are pretty harsh, but as long as you’re careful and don’t leave parts saturated, you should be okay. Thanks for the question.
My technique when installing the piston and boot is to place a towel on my lap, place the caliper with the opening facing out ,then use both hands to guide the piston in. Your tummy acts like a back brace.
