LOL "Something this old, the bleeders are gonna be all rusted out". I have three Honda 300's and all three bleeders loosened fine. I've never had a bleeder seized up on any atv's I've worked on, and I've worked on quite a few in my days.
My 97 400 had a similar problem. Part of the rear shoe actually broke off, and became wedged between the rest of the brake shoe and the drum. Couldn't even coast downhill in neurtral. Rode it that way for a year.
At 7:09, I always use a dab of anti-seize on those threads before I screw them in. I seem to get more time before the adjusters start trying to re-freeze, as they tend to do. Thanks for the video! Good stuff! Edit: I saw later in the video where you hate it. I totally get that, but it absolutely works, and will outlast lithium grease every time. But it is a MESS. I keep it in a small syringe and squeeze a dab onto the threads. It doesn't take much.
Hey dude! Really appreciate the video this morning I’ve got a put a set of brakes on my 93 Fortrax Really helpful thanks for taking the time to make the video!! good day thank you !
@@1beastlydudefixbreakrepeat hm, I suppose that may be true, I would hope Honda would've thought of that, but maybe the drums are simply not designed well.
@@M.TTT. Pretty sure Honda engineers know these get ridden in the dust. That would be gentle riding! Greasing them stops wear and keeps water out better. The harder you ride, the more often you need to pull them apart and clean/Re-grease.
curtis byrne be sure you got all the air out of the lines, they can be tricky. also make sure your pads are adjusted right they should drag ever so slightly on the drums...you should hear them rubbing. if all that fails check your master cylinder it may have air in it, remove the top and jiggle the handle see if any fluid or air bubbles. if it's tiny bubbles keep bleeding, if fluid it's the master gone bad.
i notice little bubbles coming from the master cylinder when pumping. i opened the bleed valve for like a minute and pumped for a minute and little was squirting out along with air. they worked before i took it apart.....i dont know what i done
curtis byrn the bleeder should only be open to allow fluid out . so squeeze, open, close ,release . keep jiggling the Handle until no more bubbles come up. the bleed the brakes again. make sure the bleeder is not open when you relate the handle or it will suck in more air...squeeze open, close, relase
My 97 kodiak is very similar to this. Did you do a video for the rear breaks? I have zero breaks. I plan on bleeding the fronts tomorrow but am not sure on the rears
not on this specifically, I have one on a kawasaki,most rear drum breaks are the same . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NCJEnq75zWo.html
Sonoma Style your welcome,most arcs have either the mechanical drum break or a hydraulic disk in the rear....if it's the drum break,start with ordering a set of shoes.then clean everything inside and install the new shoes. There should also be an adjustment on the housing or along the cable somewhere
Mike Detisch it is replaceable, but with high milage or excessive wear on the aluminum casting..a new seal will leak, the best thing would be to make a drain hole in the bottom
@@1beastlydudefixbreakrepeat all youtube videos have to have some ass-hat that needs to complain about the music. that is how you know all kinds of kids are watching your show
