Just bought a used CBR600RR. Really happy so far but it definitely needs some maintenance and TLC. How have these rotors held up? My front rotor has pretty deep grooves so I'm thinking of just replacing the front rotors and pads. My rear pads are real low so I'll just pad slap on rear pads. I'm pretty wary about buying used OEM rotors and a lot of aftermarket options are $250+ per rotor which is just kinda crazy to me.
Hi, today i did the tyre change job on my bike its a 08 600rr, and i notice the gap between different collars/spacers the left one on the bike seem like 1-2 mm wider/thicker. however the difference between caliper-forks and tyre edge to fork and so on seems perfectly fine, have i done something wrong or is it supposed to be this way? can you have a look at your bike. the distance between bearing/spacer to the fork.
@@RideWNC yes its the left side 1-2mm is taken by the axles thicker part on the left side and then comes the spacer and on the right side its only the spacer.... so is it all fine then and its only a visual issue, I guess then
@@wali363 It is right. Always remove the parts and place them on the correct side of the bike which they came off of. This is the best way to always know and an easy way to align your front end. Install the front wheel with axle and axle bolt finger tight. If space is on the wrong side the caliper will not line up. Install the caliper and torque. Spin the wheel and grab the brake a few times. Your wheel will be in the proper location and have the least amount of drag from the pads. Torque the axle bolt. Torque the pinch bolts. Spin again and grab the brakes. By the way, Good job keeping your bike from the stealership. Check out my brake bleeding videos for your bike. It is probably time to replace that brown fluid.
@@RideWNC Thank you for the input! I'm between getting OEM used ones with 7k miles on them or these brand new. Which would you go with if you had the decision?
@@ShaddySteve I am a huge fan of always going with OEM when I build a bike... But, brake rotors are the parts I have issues with. There is a reason why the used brake rotors are for sale. They came off a crashed bike. That bike hit a tree and the front wheel was destroyed. How do you know the rotors are good? Or they shook a bike and the owner replaced them and is now selling to get some money back. He is not going to tell you they are bad. It is very easy to warp a rotor. I had a Concours 14 with OEM warped rotors. Kawasaki knew their rotors were an issue and they were making the owners and dealers jump through hoops to get them warranteed. I took a hammer and banged each rotor once and not super hard. The bike was completely unridable. Kawasaki had no issues replacing them at that point. The new chinese rotors are under 200.00. I think that is the better choice. Are you sure the rotors are warped? It could be your pads? Have you tried replacing your pads with EBC HH pads and taking some steel wool and cleaning up your current rotors? If your running around on some BikeMaster quality pads, they can make your brakes feel like crap. There is a reason why brake pads are less than 30.00 per set.
@@RideWNC Wow! Thank you for your input, I never thought about it that way. There really would be no indication if the used OEM rotors had a problem until I received them and installed them. I didn't think about the possibility of the pads being the problem. I was going to replace the pads and brake lines along with the rotor just to make everything's new. But, I think I will replace the pads first and see if that was the problem area. Thank you so much for your outlook and responding to me very quickly!
@@ShaddySteve Since you have decided to do the lines, do the lines with the new pads. The braided line will give you so much better feedback than the OEM DOT lines. Once you have replaced the pads, lines and scubbed the rotors with steel wool, you will know for sure if the rotors are warped. If they are not, you will have an amazing braking system. It is also not a bad idea to make sure all of the bobbins which allow the rotor to float, all turn freely and the springs on the inside are still servicable. You can take a tooth brush and soapy water and clean those bobbins.
