In my case, it was a plastic bottle with the bleed tube sealed in the lid, and I used a pump (for inflatables) in vacuum/suck mode attached to the bottle. You can use anything that will effectively 'suck' the fluid and start the process. I do have a vacuum bleeder tool, but didn't have it to hand at the time, but you should be able to make something similar - even if it is a jar and a bicycle pump
Great video! Thank you. I'm struggling to find the type of cylinder for the master and slave. I have a 2006 model. What is the part number in this video?
TRW P/N is PNB959 as per 3:31, which also shows the fitment details. If you goggle PNB959 you should get some links and alternative part numbers from other manufacturers. I think the OE P/N is 46920-SMG-023 or was for me
The clutch damper can also be a candidate, but usually start here if the fluid is dirty, and think about a bypass hose for the latter if it is still an issue
I wouldn't even bother with the £30 master cylinder. It'll be broken in a year or so, if that. My dad went cheap on a master cylinder off eBay once, it broke within 6 months. As for clutch bleeding, just open the valve, put the pedal down then put your toes under the pedal and pull it up. Pump it a few times like this and the air should come out. Then lock the bleed, pump the clutch pedal 5-10 times, then open the bleed nipple again and it should be good to go.
my clutch sometimes is okay but sometimes i dont get alot power in first gear. Feel really short. Is that something what would you suggest me to change ?
If you're getting clutch slip (e.g. revs rising but the car isn't accelerating), I don't think the clutch master would resolve it. Typically, you'd expect to see symptoms of the clutch *not* disengaging - so hard to get into gear, crunching into gear etc.
