Just installed by rv6 catless dp. I’m in love with the sound. Drowned the bolts in PB penetrating oil. The goddamn heat shield under the intake was the biggest pain in the ass to take off and put back on. Thanks.
Was long ago but I don't think I ever got any of the sulfur/rotten egg smells at all (at least nothing came in the cabin, even at red lights with windows down)
+Danny Dias I wish... I'm no tuner really, going to start messing with it soon though. From my limited understanding of it all you might want to modify your boost targets since you can now spool faster and might be able to hit higher boost than before with the same target/wastegate duty cycle so to keep the same boost level you might actually Target just below what you want. Then you could probably advance timing a bit because you are now hopefully getting more heat out of there with the increased flow... Have to watch knock control closely though. Afr/fueling shouldn't really need tweaking I wouldn't think since you aren't messing with air flow into the engine at all (MAF size/location, piping diameter, etc all stayed the same). Again take all that with a grain of salt as I have tuned ZERO engines up to this point lol
caraddict Ah okay i see, i just wasnt sure if you did the tuning your self with hondata or whatever you use, i recently installed the downpipe and now have a CEL so i was curious as to see what needs to be done to turn that off, but thanks!
You need to get ktuner and click the "disable secondary catalyst efficiency" or some words to that effect. You cannot do that with hondata. you can also try adjusting the defouler. I have only thrown the code once, it went away on its own after a couple drive cycles and never came back and I don't have that code disabled.
caraddict I have a question if you read this, so a de fouler will trick the engine correct? No tuner needed ? I'm about to order my catless down pipe and saw you had a de fouler, and your engine never threw the code but only that one time ??
I have gotten the catalyst efficiency code once and it took quite a while to pop, it actually went away on its own after a couple drives and never came back and I have driven a lot since I installed it and been to the track twice.
Did you use anything like pb blaster to help with the 4 bolts on the front pipe to get it off or did you just man handle it off 😂. Just worried about when I do mine that I’m going to snap a bolt or stud
Only ones that show up for me is the Takeda 3" race for 399 and catted for 649. Plus I had been talking about this downpipe with RV6 since I bought the car in Jan so I might not have paid retail ;)
I actually don't even know for sure yet. I did in fact pay retail but they made a deal with me to refund me money (gave me a range low-high of what I'm able to get "depending on level of effort") after I made in install guide so I wrote one up on civicx.com and made this video, and am going to be making one on the testing data I got, then submit all the links and they decide how much to send back but it will end up being right around or a little above 50% off after taxes/etc. There were actually a few of us at least to get in the door first and receive the deal I'm pretty sure.
Hey @caraddict I'm looking to get the same RV6 catless maybe catted down pipe and I wanted to know how the exhaust smell is with the catless ? My car is my daily and I drive in stop and go traffic everyday to work. I also live in California and the POPO is a pain. Is the exhaust smell bad or is it just like the smell you get in the morning on a cold start with stock DP? I want the catless but don't want to smell like a late model ice cream truck coming down the block 😂
RV6 doesn't have a catted option at the moment. I actually rarely noticed the smell, even with my one muffler unbolted until I lowered the car. Somehow this affected the airflow around the car that the exhaust gases were now being drawn through the body panel gaps, coming out the fuel door, rear quarter/bumper gap, by the taillight, rear "vent", etc... After that I started noticing it more when coming to a stop I would get the smell if I had my window down or something so I would imagine the smell was ALWAYS there I just never was subjected to it. I don't think that it is that bad either although I actually kinda like that smell... Sorry I can't really be more help about it.
+MattVlogs I'm guessing I'm still right around the 215-220hp game but hope to change that soon. PRLs new CAI with the larger MAF housing should be available soon, do on turbo might come soon, etc...
+MattVlogs well I didn't really clarify. Either fuel I'm at about 280lb.ft and with pump I was at 213 before the downpipe and running e25 I was at about 240 before the DP. Haven't dynoed since so I just threw on a few for good measure...
Billie Jean in the background Love it man haha. Oy, I’m not sure if my other question was sent, I was half asleep when I typed it. But it is as it follows, did you wait for a certain mile mark before doing upgrades and tuning? Is there really a brake in period?
They say there is a break-in period, and there is but in MY opinion (and many others as well) it doesn't need to be followed the way they say. I have "broken-in" 5 new engines my way and never had problems. But I am not starting up a new engine and beating on it cold and "abusing" it, same as you shouldn't do at any point in its life. There are some conspiracy theories about why they tell you "their" break in method... One that makes sense to me is especially true when it comes to ATVs/ motorcycles. You just got this new machine (that you may not be familiar with at all), that has 50-200hp and weighs around 3-400lbs and you can get into trouble REAL quick and hurt yourself BAD, so during that "break-in" period you are forced to ride very conservatively while you are becoming familiar with the power and handling traits of your new toy.
i don't know where u live.....but bro do they smog cars where you live?......just wondering ....i got a turbo elantra and I'm about to start my journey in the aftermarket world....but i guess your doing the work yourself so it saves u $
+Ethan Hill yep, do about everything myself because I'm too poor/cheap to pay fort labor. Thing about it that sucks though is everything takes longer. I've had sn FX350 in the box i the clay for weeks now, it'd be much quicker to just drop it off somewhere and pick it up in a day or two. There is smog here to some extent but if you are 96+ they just plug into the obd2 and look for readiness which you can trick the car into achieving with defoulers and cat simulators etc...
Thank you for the video! Do you mind telling me what tools with sizes that you used for the entire install? I'm planning on installing my downpipe tomorrow but i'll need to buy the right tools first.
