If you are wondering what the CM stands for I think it means custom, this model had a Vetter fairing and Shoei (spelling mine) panniers option. I know because i have one that is a kind of mini goldwing, guess i won't go the cafe route with it overtly but i like the simplifications you have rolled with
Looks really good. I have an 80 as well. well Someone started chopping it and didn't get too far. Gonna keep the 6v too. I was iffy on ditching the air box, but seeing how you did it makes a difference. I run caps instead of battery and no dim lights. 2 kicks with the headlight on cold. 3500 miles as well. Its pretty much stock minus the seat and the lights that were removed and frame cut where yours is. I like the stance with the lowered front. I keep having a hankering to throw a turbo on with an oil pump replacing the starter. I weigh as much as the bike (200 lbs) so a little extra snort for highway speed would be ok. Seems your rejet would be a way to go. I've been up to 80 but on a windy day its wot to hold 65. I was trying to decide how id do my seat with the tank mount, your seat looks excellent.
Awesome build man! I recently just got a 1981 honda cm200, i been having a lot of trouble finding a matching set of tires because it's such an odd rim size, what brand and size tires are you running with??
Hey Johnny boy ..i know your post about the tires are from a year ago ,but iv put new ones on my Twinstar and my bike shop i take it to for tires ,they had a time with that as well ,she went through every book they had and there was only one company out there that has a matching 2 size set listed and i think they are Duros,i think ill double check that next time im out in the garage but i think it was Duros,
Nice bike! I have the same bike and put a pod filter on. I rebuilt the carb with a standard kit off of 4 into 1. Did you have to use different jets? Any help would be appreciated! I also have chopped exhaust.
Thanks! I found a factory repair manual on eBay. At the time of the restoration I ended up pulling the head it was slightly warped. New head gasket, and new rings that I believe I got from Honda new. The manual is pretty straightforward and easy to read. Hope this helps!
Thanks! Those are literally the original tires that are still on it. It’s the one thing I never did. I don’t ride it much anymore. I think it’s 17x3.00 in the front and 16x3.50 in the rear. I think I gave up because I wanted a matching set but couldn’t find them because they are oddball sizes.
I know you posted this a while ago, but do you remember where you got the air filter from? I'm considering making mine look more like this, but not sure which filter to go with.
It’s a uni filter. You have to measure the inlet of the carb to see what size it is and match it up. You’ll have to bend it slightly to clear the frame. You may have to rejet your carb if you put one on though.
Hi, I only cut the frame at the back, roughly where the upper tube and lower tube meet leaving the triangular support still there. filled the holes with rubber plugs found on brake calipers of European cars.
hi, so currently in the middle of my build, i have 3 questions. can ya run the bike with no battery set up? i have only ever kick started my cm200. also how did you navigate the air filter? is there a email i can reach you at?
Jeremiah August the battery along with the voltage regular are what keep your lights at a steady brightness and keep them from being over powered by the generator coil. It will run off of the stator just fine but you really don't want to run the lights straight from the generator coil. Puts a lot of stress through excess heat etc.
Hey mike. I’ve got a cm200 and I’ve removed the starter, airbox, and was going to relocate the battery with a more compact battery. The bike runs fine, but I can’t get any of my lights to work. I made a mount for the new battery, turns out the manufacturer of that battery is out of business now. It should be possible for me to run my head and tail lights without a battery right? I was thinking generator would be enough power. I can’t seem to get them to work though. I don’t know much about electrical and I’d prefer to not have to make another mount.
I run a 6 volt lithium battery and it's been ok. Your lights should turn on as soon as you turn the key on. There is a main fuse by the battery, that supplies everything with power. Possibly no power getting to the bulbs? Also check your ignition switch and make sure it's sending out power. The wiring diagrams are really simple to figure out. Your doing better than me, if my battery is dead it will not start, even if I kick start it. So in your case I would imagine the lights wouldn't work without a battery, I don't think the generator is strong enough, if you still have a 6 volt system.
Mike Kay hey mike. I got it all to work without a battery but it just wasn’t enough power with just the generator, and I think the rectifier hated it. Lights were dim then bright and very twitchy. Ended up going with the same battery you have here, everything works, now I’m going to copycat your battery set up, but I’ll be a little more lazy about hiding the wires. Thanks for the inspiration. Figured one problem out, but Now the bike dies when I hit the throttle though. gonna start with new fuel filter and hope it’s actually that simple.
@@pacifictrash8993 Hey man I'm glad it all worked out. It's a good bike to learn on. Get a repair manual if you can. If your bike has been sitting for awhile, or at any point in it's life you may need to start with a carburetor rebuild. You may have one of the jets or passages partially clogged from gas sitting for awhile. Very easy to rebuild once you find a kit. Good luck!
Mike Kay the confusing part is I just did a carb rebuild, and cleaned the tank. It ran fine for about a week with my new pod filter. Now it’s doing this new thing. I do have a repair manual, I might have to look more in depth about carbs. Thanks
@@mikekay8328 Hey Mike, did you have to get a new voltage regulator with that lithium iron battery? I've read that the reg/rect., plus all the bulbs needs to be replaced when switching to Lithium Iron batteries...or do I have that wrong?
Hi yes I did have to get shorter cables made from motion pro, but only after I cut down the forks. I had clubman bars on mine and to get creative with routing the stock cables. it's not hard. zip ties come in handy.
Thanks! I’ve gone about 70mph on it. I’ve stripped off so much off of it it’s very light. It’s a pretty intense ride at that speed on the freeway, I wouldn’t recommend it! 😂
Its been so long, i cant remember. I know its a oddball size like 31mm or 27mm something like that. If you can get ahold of a digital caliper from like harbor freight you can measure them. I found them on ebay i think from hong kong, the actual brackets. I made the bars themselves from 7/8 hollow pipe cut to size you want. I think they may have been sold under scooter clip ons because they are so small. Hope this helps. Good luck
I made it. I took plywood, traced around the frame notched it for the gas tank mount and had the local upholstery shop sew it up with leather he had laying around. To secure it I went to the hardware store and bought inserts for wood that’s threaded and has prongs on it that go into the seat bottom. There are two holes in the frame that work perfect for mounting it. Mind you I cut the frame and hoop off at the back and filled I the holes with caps from a brake caliper made by “Ate”. Get the plywood shaped first and fitted before you get the upholstery done. After everything was done I painted the bottom black. This was done 7-8 years ago. No problems with the seat. Hope this helps👍🏻
@@MsicHouse i think. The stock shocks were not adjustable. I got those off of ebay for like $40. They work well and are adjustable.I think they are listed as scooter shocks. Measure the old shock middle of eyelet to eyelet. Find one listed roughly same size. Also i think they were Chinese made. I haven't had issues at all with them at all. The quality is good and after a few years no leaks or rust on them.
I made a base out of plywood, then took it to a upholstery shop they had extra leather laying around from a previous job and they stitched it up for me, with the leather for around $50.
Honestly I don't remember. I measured eyelet to eyelet in mm. Went on eBay and found some that were adjustable around the same size give or take. I believe they were around $50. I think they were sold as scooter shocks as well, I don't recall the brand though.
