This is a well thought out ( how too ) and makes it much easier for someone who's just starting out with bikes! Great tips aswell 👌 I don't even have a bike yet haha. But I've subscribed after this one! Great stuff
@@jaimereyes7480 to do it right you need the valves and the seats cut as well as the guides depending on what happened and what is overall needed. Cost would depend on that. A few companies on eBay offer full head rebuilds for a reasonable cost.
Ok thanks, really hoping that isn't the case with my bike. Its pretty hard to kick start takes a good 10+ kicks. Gonna try to shim the valves myself first
@@jaimereyes7480 Adjust them them to spec and see how it does. A leak down test will let you know if your valves are sealing or if you need piston rings.
Excellent delivery when it came to specs and procedures. This is the 3rd "how-to" video I've watched and definitely the most straight to the point. Cheers
Wow. I wish you could explain every mechanical project I do. The tips to look out for and details are spectacular. I think I’ll just buy whatever you do videos on so I don’t have to watch other videos and be frustrated.
This is so helpful! I just got this bike and I may die kickstarting for 15 minutes until it starts lol. I got a carb rebuild kit also. This bike has been given the dinner many times for sure but my kid wanted someone to ride with (his is crf250 and my crf450)
You can do it, adjusting valves is an extremely important maintenance item you don't want to have to pay someone to do every time. It affects the way the engine runs in many different ways.
This is the first place I’m gonna start my 2008 Crf250r would start pretty well and now I’m kicking and kicking and it will maybe start after a lot of kick but when it’s warm it’s starts right up
Gday. Ive got a similar issue with my 2009 crf. Not sure if this has anything to do with it. My air temp sensor isnt connected. I read something about the bikes computer default is 40°c if the temp sensor isnt working. So even thou its only 10°c outside, the bike thinks its 40°c. Im guessing this is messing with the air/fuel ratio making it hard to start. But im no mechanic. Just having a go.
for you, my friend, your video is very nice, I want to ask you, I have a crf 450 r 2008, the manufacturer says to change the piston and springs every 15 hours, I don't use it as a racer, and I've owned it twice and you can see the piston that it never has the thickness on the bottom side is 95.86 what should I do, change it
I have the exact same bike ..same year.... my valves need doing soon and having watched your vid it don’t seem so scary any more..... subscribed.... cheers
Thank you very much for that info...my 2005 CRf250r just fired up.. now I have to nail the right shim because is making lots of noise.....same thing right intake was at 0 with 1.90 in shims on it...I dropped it down to 1.74
I adjusted my valves when I put everything back together I tried to start it the timing chain fell off. I aligned all the marks again but the bike still won’t start. What els could this be?
I dont think thats my problem but I cant figure it out i have a modified dr350. increased compression mikuni flat slide carb. It starts real easy if i roll it down a hill and pop start it, but I cant get it to even try to start with the kick start. At my 260 lb I can put all my weight on the kick start and it takes several seconds to move. Ihave to get it at the top and kick it back with my leg muscles instead of down with my weight.
I'm curious why your seat looks like that is that defective foam or is that on purpose and deliberate to have a big lump in your seat at the end ?? Just looks like whoever did your seat did a real fast sloppy job 🤦
Just got a used crf250r and it’s having hard start problems, so I checked my valves today and the intakes were the exact same measurements as yours. Only difference is, mine has number 200 shims under the caps so I’m trying to figure what shuns will get me within spec on the intake valves. My exhaust valves are fine. As many others have already said, your detail in showing this procedure is by far the best one on RU-vid.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I appreciate the quick response and help. I just walked out of my local dealer and one of their techs were able to help me by giving them my measurements and current shim size. I’ll be subscribing to your channel and keeping a eye out for future vids.
Great video! I have an 08 450r and it only starts if I bump start it. Do you think that's the valves? When I try to kick start it there's a few drops of gas that come out of the carb.??? Thanks again for the video.
If it's dripping out of the carb when you're trying to start it, it could be flooding. First I would check the valves because it's the easiest. If they are good, pull and clean the carb checking the float needle and seat. Most likely it's tight valves though. Thanks for watching, lmk what you find.
Hey just wanted to say great video man! Learned a lot from your channel already. At 3:58 you say the exhaust side is .008" - .011". But when I look in the description I notice a different spec. Am I missing something or is there a mistake?
Enjoyed the video my friend... I am thinking about buying a local '04 crf450r that's avail. for $1900 maybe lil less?. The owner had it listed $3100 but said would take the $1900 being it needs a lil work as its hard to start.... hopefully a valve adjustment is all it needs? But, still think $1900 is a lil too much for a 17 yr. old bike? WWYD Kinemaster? Thanks Buddy
Hi there.question I have 2004 250x with big bore kit on it.when it’s test run out last year left it till few months ago I’ve done the carb jets a cleaned it all in a ultrasonic cleaner.was told by hot cams that valve gaps should be 28 thow and 12thow.I’ve done this a bike still won’t start up a used to start right up.any help please as to what it is why won’t start.
Juct got me self a second hand crf250r man befor me spent £525 on a hot start and new shims and fall Service oil filter oil so on the bike is the nuts I’m going to put videos off it up on my channel next day or two this is stank I’m goi g to keep my eye on and do me self 👍🏻you got new sub
I have a 05 kx250f that is super hard to start when cold! It will bumpstart with ease then start easily when warm. I checked timing and it was way off. Havent had a chance to try and start it but would that be a reason or would it be valves being too tight or too loose?
.005 intake .011 exhaust in inches or .12 intake .28 exhaust in mm + or -.003 Here is a good link for info on your bike. thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/429421-honda-crf250x-faqs-in-progress/
Great video mate!! A friend of mine just got an 08' CRF 250, that's super hard to start. It has receipts for just having the valves adjusted (as well as a bunch of other stuff) Do you have any other ideas why it would be so difficult to start? My mate read on a forum somewhere that you should be pumping HEAPS of petrol (gas) into it when starting, like 15 throttle twists plus full choke?!? - this felt like it helped a little but seems excessive to me and I was wondering if it might have something to do with carby jetting? Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated!!
So, I would start with putting it back to stock jetting. Then normally, with the choke on, I twist the throttle 4 times then kick if it starts then stalls, 3 more twists then kick. You can richen up the pilot but then you'll have to use the hot start when starting it hot (which leans it out). But first I would check the valves. Because if the valves are sinking, they get out of tolerance quicker. So unless they were adjusted just before he got it, they may need it again.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you so much for the fast reply mate!! I believe the bike is still stock jetting and I don't think the bike had even been ridden between the shop doing valves and my mate taking ownership of it. I tried your starting procedure this morning and it fired up pretty easily!!! It did seem to take maybe 5 minutes or more to 'warm up' (idle with no choke or throttle 'blipping') is this normal, maybe just the idle screw setting? I have only ever owned older 2 stroke bikes and have no idea if this is (or anything) is normal for a 'newer' 4 stroke, so thanks again for your help, it's much appreciated!!
I have the same exact bike, same year and everything, and it's extremely hard to start. Valves are spot on, bought a new coil (still had original equipment), carb is clean, new spark plug, can't get it to start easy at all. Runs and idles like a top once it is started, but it's 20-30 kicks to get it to fire. Pretty sure compression is good because it's a mother to kick it over (and the top end was done last year with just a handful of easy rides since). It starts easy with a bump start, and once hot it starts in 1-2 kicks, but cold it is awful. Going to move up the pilot jet to a 42 (I think stock is a 40) because it seems like it's hungry for fuel to start (though choke on doesn't seem to help). Would just like my darn bike to start in less than 10 kicks so I can get out on the track!!
I've had similar problems with a bad stator, putting out a weak spark. Tons of kicks, bump start or hot. First I would put the carb to stock settings. If that doesn't help I would personally do a leak down test next. If that passes, I would suspect spark. It should start like the one in this video, this bike had a lot of hours as well.
@@TepcoCycleRepair So today I got it all fixed up. Turns out there was a #45 pilot jet in the bike. I dropped that down to a #42 and it literally starts on the first or second kick now. However, I think I need to drop down even further, because I am 3 complete turns out on the fuel screw based on what I know on that adjustment (back it out to the point where when you pull the hot start lever the bike revs rather than dying). It is night and day though on the cold start, I cannot believe it.
Use the hot start or lean out your pilot jet one size. It's to rich if it's hard to start after a stall. Or your valves are to tight reducing compression.
I have problem with 2001 yz 2 stroke that dosent want to turn on, at times when try kicking it on aftet the 3rd kick it seems get really hard to kick and it always happens every after couple kicks. Can anybody help plz!! Bike has new top end new spark plug and its got spark, checked carburetor float and jets are clean and also checked reed valve and its in perfect condition.
Ok so a few things, Are you sure you have a good spark? What's your compression? And something I've seen in a few YZ's is water intrusion from a improperly seated head gasket oring. Pull your plug and make sure there is absolutely no water in it. I once had to turn a yz upside down to get all the water out of the crank case. Good luck I would be glad to answer any questions.
@@TepcoCycleRepair ohh Ok appreciate your response and so what is consider a good spark, also i have not checked reading of the comprssion. I did have a leaking water pump seal tho where the water was getting to my oil and ive replace the seals i would have ti remove trans oil to see if is not milky color again if not might be the head gasket but thanks alot o appreciated your response and you opened up some pin points for me to check 💯
@@carloscervantes618 No problem, a bad pump seal would not cause this, it would just get water in your oil. Water only gets in the cylinder from a bad head or base gasket in a 2 stroke. Good luck keep me informed.
So many fantastic comments on truly one of the best most incredible to the point lamen videos I've seen. Find it hard to comment so I'll say THANK YOU & IM ABSOFUCKINGLUTELY AN INSTANT SUBSCRIBER !!!
Re-shimming will only be a short term fix , if the bike has been run with zero valve clearance the valve faces will be worn and once the surface material has gone the valves wear out even quicker . I would pull the head and renew all valves , very common issue on this model .
Hi tepco, have you ever had a 450x wear out starter motors? I did an oem engine rebuild, now it is rare to kick start it to life. I road race it, had to start it on rollers. With the clutch side open and the gear reduction taken out, the starter still won’t spin over. For what it’s worth the crank takes 30 inch pounds of torque wrenching to spin through the exhaust stroke.
My ktm 250sx-f loses it's spec about 10 hours after it's specked. It has become very tiring(mentaly). My bike is 12years old.Maybe it needs a total rebuild or something....
Thanks for the video. I have a 2005 CRF 250x that is hard to start and idles erratically. It's been sitting for years and I need to get the carb rebuilt by someone other than me and check the valves.
My2012 crf 250 idles just a tad bit high a but my idle adjustment knob will not turn the bike starts good and runs like it’s supposed to should I jus leave it alone ?
The idle speed for your bike should be 2000 rpm + or - 100. Remember in your bike to turn the idle down you need to turn it in, not out like other carb bikes. Try to measure your rpm to see where it's at the try that knob again by turning it in to get the right idle. These bikes normally idle higher than most people think so you might not be that far off. Thanks for watching.
Hi there. I have an 05 crf250r can't get it to start. New cyl head, valves, piston, crank, cam, carb, plug everything is brand new and it still won't run. Timing and valve clearance are all in spec. Any ideas?
I just got 03 crf450..started 1st time from cold was out on it for 30min I turned it off and would not start again. Could that be a valve clearance issue
What if your bike had high compression and its hard to start? I have a 2010 txc250 and i just cleaned the carb and havnt tried to start it yet, but the carb was already pretty clean, do you know what the issue could be?
I have an 07 CRF250 with this issue i think. it may be a two part problem though. When i was able to get it started, I also noticed that it doesnt idle properly. I can crack the throttle, when released, it idles high, then comes back down to idle and sometimes sputters and stalls. I guess I will start with valves, and then will probably have to watch some carb cleaning videos next. Any suggestions? I dont have a leak down tester, but do have a compression tester....maybe I can use that to check compression which in turn should be a quick check on valves correct?
First tune the carb / air screw settings - also check air filter - then if doesn't fix then valve clearance if still doesn't fix then the valves and guides are gone rekt
Absolutely could be, could also be, worn piston rings or carburetor issues. A leak down test will answer the rings question as well as telling you if the valves are sealing well. Did it gradually get hard to start or sat for a while or was it a sudden hard start issue?
Dude just got in high gear and my 05 bogged for a sec then grabbed hold again then instantly shut down and couldn't kick it over lol any thought other then the obvious? Lol TR
You can get them from rocky mountain ATV or any online dealer. But the best way is to measure and go to your local dealership and buy from them, this way if you measured wrong they will usually swap them out for the right size.
I have a 79 Honda xl 500s. It has a million miles on it. It never needed anything other than oil changes and one simple timing chain adjustment. Why these honda bikes suck theses days is beyond me.
Very different bikes. Your bike makes 32hp this 2004 CRF250R makes 42hp that's 10 more hp out of half the size engine. It's a very refined engine with lighter parts that wear faster then bikes like yours. Your XL is a tank and will run forever, these bikes are race machines built for maximum power not longevity.
Lean condition on the pilot circuit or an exhaust leak at the header gasket will be you most common reasons. Make sure the header gasket is good, then you can try turning the mixture screw out a little to richen it up. If that doesn't work, try the next richer pilot jet.
So I adjusted valves still hard to start but when it did I herd a clanking noise. Applied some tention to the chain and noise went away but now hard to start. Could that mean I need to replace timing chain?
I just bought the same. Bike. Been hearing stories about the valves wearing really fast and needing adjustments soon after being done. Would you recommend putting stainless or titanium valves in to add to the time between adjustments? Just wondering if it’s worth spending the extra cash to save hours in the shop
The issue is usually when they start needing adjustment, they will need frequent adjustments. I would use stainless they will last much longer. Titanium are lighter but won't last as long as stainless, usually people go from titanium to stainless. If you're racing the pro class and need every ounce of power, titanium, everyone else will be fine with stainless.
I have a Yamaha tt600 has spark and has fuel going to the carb i already did a carb clean there’s gas going to the engine and there’s compression but still won’t start can someone help?
I got a crf450r and it starts when its cold but after it runs like 30 seconds or a min and i try to go and when i stall it (new rider) i cant start it acter its been started already and i have to wait untill it cools. the valvs where just adjusted to
My crf 450r will start easy in the heat and wont start in cold but itll start one kick in the heat if not ill need to kick it alot to start do u think it needs an adjustment
I would check the timing marks on the cam and make sure your they are spot on. You may have a stretched timing chain. Check your valves while you have the valve cover off. If all that checks out good, most likely your rings are worn and a top end is required. I have a 250x top end video, it should be the same.
Intake is .15-.20mm exhaust is .17-.23mm. Many things could cause it not to start. Check the basics, make sure your timing marks are correct, check for spark, check that valves are within spec, make sure your carb is clean with the proper jets. If any of these things are off you need to fix that first. Ideally you need a leak down test done to check that everything is sealed up good.
No they are not. Most common sizes are 7.48mm and 9.48mm this CRF250R takes 7.48mm your CRF450R takes 9.48mm. Double check before ordering to be sure you get the right ones for your bike.
Set your valve clearance first. Then if it still does't start have someone do a leak down test. You can also make sure your timing marks are perfect. If your valves are really loose, they may be bent, a leak down test will tell you that.
I was thinking the same. Clearance would take .2 mil.. we dont have compression test gadget in this town. Maybe i go straight to the cylinder check for clearances.
