Honda CRV Rear Diff oil change - How and Why 

Just purchased a 2003 Honda CRV Se Sport £1800 (130000 miles) This is the first thing I would be doing thank you for the video, simply made and explained.

Brilliant demo, and all done with a sense of humour 👏

Thanks mate, will be doing this job over this bank holiday weekend.

Good one! Love your comment at the end, I learned the hard way back in '78. I found out that Rover V8's are heavy. I didn't listen to my dad about stupid Jack Stands. What do fathers know anyway? FAAFO 😂😂😂 Cape Town South Africa.

Thank you for this vid. Very helpful, you made it look easier than I fear it is.

Really thorough demonstration. Thanks man.

I'm on my 2nd Mk 2 CRV. This one has been fine, but I'm about to change the rear diff fluid anyway, because I can't see anything in the service history showing it's been done, and after 128,000 miles it surely needs it. I changed the fluid on the first one I had within a week of buying it - there was a hell of a juddering coming from the back, when reversing in full lock. It really sounded 'expensive ' and my heart sank when I heard it. Someone suggested I change the rear diff fluid and though I doubted it would work - it worked perfectly for the next 30,000 miles and was still fine when an idiot wrote the car off in the works car park. I always wondered what went on in that box - thanks for the explanation.

I used to do that kind of thing with my 1980 Range Rover when I was into off-roading, but my days of crawling under vehicles are over. I reckon my Volvo XC60 might work as you describe (it certainly never tells me if 4WD is engaged), but my Shogun is made of sterner stuff I think.

Helpful video, detailed and well explained (Y) Thank you! :)

Thanks for this very useful info. I've recently got a 2004 CRV 140k I'm sorting out and having a bit of a turn judder (like CV joints but coming from the back) I understand a fluid change may sort this out. Also doing an oil change of the engine to try and sort out a power cut at medium revs which I believe, hopefully may be oil pressure/viscosity issues affecting the VVT system. If not its probably the solenoid valve? Whilst on I must mention the shocking rottability of the rear disc shields and the awful collection of rustable brake pipes located in a connection block just behind the engine - 4 lines pulled in 1 MOT!

love the diagram and knowledge thank you!

While you have the drain plug off, insert a pencil magnet into drain hole, it will help get those metal fragments out of differential. Also with drain plug off, run some clean fluid through fill plug to help flush out fragments. This will help reduce differential shudder.

I loved the tea and medals comment. -:)

Great video this one!

Cheers for that big help I'm going to do mine now I think 👍

Thanks for that - good video. Do you just have the back wheels up, or the front as well?

Great video !!

can you do your next with your top off?

Thank you. Keep wrenching.

Really helpful and well explained - thank you! Do you recall the size of the washer on the drain plugs?

Hello. Thanks for this vid. Would you happen to know the width of the pipe you used?

@drawingboard82 Do you happen to have a full copy of the user's manual in a PDF? It's impossible to find online.

Okay, thanks, appreciated!

Hi, how often should I change the rear differential fluid for my 2010 CRV? Thanks

Hopefully your not doing any cooking with that crock pot any time soon! Thanks for the video 👍

just got an 05’ read this is a must, have you swapped out your air compressor? I read this can fail internally and destroy the a/c system, but I believe this was more common before 05’

Nice! What do you think using a syringe to fill with oil

Thanks. Good video

Omg if I was your gf or wife id be PISSED that you used my Le Creuset pan lol thanks for the video I have to do this on my 2005

Just one point. When filling to a drainplug or dipstick it's important the vehicle is approximately level.

Excellent very informative apart from ollyups?

What torque pressure did you do the nuts up to please?

What is the torque on those two bolts?

Hi what is the size of the drain plug washers? Is it 20mm?

Is there any way of keeping the differential engaged

Молодец! СПАСИБО!!!

Nice

Did you just jack the rear of the car up, or both ends of the car? I was wondering if I could do this job by just jacking the rear end up 👍🏻 great vid btw

Great info - do you know the washer size please ? can't seem to find it anywhere ...

Fellow ex mate lot here, You drained a 42’s gearbox of oil and they couldn’t fill it and they removed it and sent it back? Wasn’t that like a two weeks process, dry dock and everything? I’m assuming it was a gearbox on something else not the ships gearbox

You ever seen the wild thornberries 😂

สุดยอดครับ

Go Navy! US Navy, 1993-2003.

No sabía que a Jason Statham le gustara los CR-V…

Not sure how I feel about you nipping up the fill bolt when its still running out at quite a pace. Honda have set the level for a reason.

more than a quart drained out when I did this. how is that possible?

Since it requires 1.5 bottles, might as well, flush the system with the extra 1/3 of the bottle. I’m not going to save a 1/2 of a bottle for 4 years.

I can almost hear what you're saying

Wrong. You said the 4wd only works when the rear wheels slip. It works only when say the front left looses grip the rear left would start to push.

Thanks! Also wd-40 isn't for loosening bolts, unless it says penetrating oil on the front of the can

What I can’t hear you.

Too much talk