I'm not a professional technician so I don't see many broken vehicles but I'm glad I saw this video. I think I can help a neighbor with a similar issue.
The ELD(A) data PID is an amp measurement that the PCM is converting from the ELD voltage signal (signal voltage at the PCM should usually be between 1v-3.5v approx). Some quick tests you can do on most newer Hondas is to check voltage on ELD signal wire and compare to data PID ELD(A) at idle (if you have the ELD voltage data PID that's even better). If you are close to these numbers you are probably ok. Idle only (vehicle warmed up), no loads: ELD signal voltage 3.3v-3.5v = ELD(A) PID reading of 13-15A Idle with Headlights ON: ELD signal voltage 2.5v-2.7v = ELD(A) PID of 25-27A Idle with Headlights ON HIGH/Defrost ON: ELD signal voltage 1.0v-1.2v = 56-57A When the PCM detects ELD signal voltage that is too low (usually below .5v or so) it activates MIL for P1297 (ELD circuit low). When the PCM detects ELD signal voltage that is too high (usually above 4v or so) it activates MIL for P1298 (ELD circuit high). Some of the ELDs on some Hondas are part of the under hood fuse box and fixing it requires replacing the fuse box. Hope this info helps somebody out.
Thanks for this info. Will a ELD going bad cause my, 2006 Honda Odyssey to stop charging or does it only throw codes? Can't figure out this charging issue
My 2008 CR-V ELD is buried under 2 layers of panels in the under hood fuse box, I took it out and going to replace it. No charge condition after replacing alternator due to battery light on dash and no charge condition. I hope it fixes the problem. I did not use a code reader to diagnose the problem.
@@tiredowalkin I just replaced the alternator in my Acura RSX and the battery lights on but it is charging and the computer does have control over the charge duty cycle so I don't know what's going on with mine the only reason why I changed the alternator was it was overcharging at 16 volts had no codes no battery light on nothing it was overcharging only so I changed it with a reman Nippondenzo which I heard are junk after I put it in but it charges fine now I have a battery light on but the computer still drops to low charge status and bounces to high charge status when it needs more power so I have no idea what the hell is going on
if your eld is blown then you should be experiencing the car starting but then slowly dying and then abruptly bog and kill its self. Basically what the eld does for the alternator is allow it to send power through the exciter/field wire to go back to the battery to charge it. If you don't have the eld working it cuts off the connection to the exciter/field wire thus not charging your battery so you are running off the battery's power. Also what I found is that when you have a blown eld ( may not be for everyone but in my case it was) is that it send way to much volts to the alternator which then effects the voltage regulator. Sometimes it's in the alternator, but sometimes it's external. If you have the voltage regulator in the alternator then you most likely need to change the alternator when replacing the blown eld fuze. Hopefully that helped some people because I was puzzled for about 3 days trying to figure it out.
Dealing with same issues atm. ELD/Alternator In my case WHEN running will not engage Drive gear (wont drive in drive lol). Related? Troobleshooting Thanks for your summary though helps!
Colin Kasprak hey just curious im experience this on my 2000 accord lx 5 speed. Just wondering since you mentioned changing the alternator after changing the blown eld fuse. I changed my alternator and every other electrical component about 3,000k miles ago. Is changing my alternator again necessary?
Omg the same thing happen to me today also the car goes on bur with a jumper after I take it off rpm goes to 0 I put the gas all away down and make a big explosion 🤣
thanks for posting the videos how about mechanic myself sometimes we do not know it all or sometimes we forget and it's just a great reminder and they do help a lot appreciate it
I just replaced this today on my 05 CRV with a stick. Lately it’s been having some cranking issues when starting it sounds really weak and I already replaced the battery in the alternator and I know that the previous owner had the starter replaced at a Honda dealership. Not to say that this one isn’t bad because they are known to be problematic on these cars, but I know that this ELD is a known issue with Hondas and there is a service bulletin on this issue in fact, so I went ahead and replaced it and already I can tell that the car is cranking over a bit easier now. I also took the opportunity to spray any corroded areas as well as the metal bar that goes through the ELD with electrical cleaner while I was in there. I haven’t tested the starter yet, but I do plan on doing that in the very near future to see what kind of cranking amps it’s putting out.
Same thing happened to my 97 Honda Civic, turns out it was my "alternate s fuse" underneath my steering wheel. It turned on the P0135,P0141 And P1298. So check all ur fuses and BAM UR BACK ON THE ROAD!
I end up showing your videos and your brothers videos to Mike mechanics at my shop I run a mechanic shop myself and we do appreciate it thank you guys once again
My 2000 civic is 23 yrs old so I know my eld relay needs changed. I’ve bought a new battery and alternator and my voltage drops after 10 minutes of driving on the freeway when I come to a stop in gear. When I put it in park the voltage goes back to 14.3 but in drive it drops to like 12.6 so I know it’s old from wear and tear from all these years of driving.
I've 'heard' (note quotes) these things are just an inductive amp meter... there so the ecu can goose up drive by wire idle speed a little to compensate for large electrical loads... like the electric power steering being hard cranked. Have also heard they do fail now and again. Great videos, Thanks!
Nicely done , James. I have never seen that on a Honda here in Canada. Where Steve Rob lives I don't think they even have Honda's at all. They would get buried with snow in the winter and their owners would not be able to find them. {:-)
02 crv had no check engine light on.the car was idling highwhen pulling up to lights or in the driveway thought it was iacv cleaned it and it didnt help.i plugged it in and code pulled up .replaced the eld and problem went away never even heard of it or had to replace one before it was weird.but glad it was an easy fix
Nice fix James! Hope that Dorman replacement holds up as well as the OEM ELD sensor did. I think Tobias already mentioned this below, but the ELD (A) Pid most likely indicates the total current amp draw by the vehicle. That was just a coincidence that it was 13-14Amps when you looked at it. A good test would be to turn on the headlights and see if it goes up to like 30Amps :)
I'm late to the party, but I'd imagine the "A" in ELD(A) stands for amps.. that the pcm was converting the eld input to show the scan tool the amps of current going through the sensor.
I am from Quebec(Canada) and i once saw that code on a 2003 CR-V while doing an inspection but the customer didnt want to have it fixed so thanks for the pointer if i ever come across this code again i'll have an idea what to look for
James Danner well i cant tell because it also had idle control trouble codes and like i said the customer did not want it to be fix, but i just did a quick search on a honda tech forum and it seems that it does indeed turn the check engine light after a couple of trip
It looks remarkably similar to a current transformer. Senses current thru a circuit and trip a code if there is high or incorrect current draw in the circuit. After marked mods or additions by owners cause the problem you are seeing? Although In my experience I have only seen current transformers used in AC circuits where high amperage draw would be a problem and the circuit is disabled if the current transformer senses a problem. I have also seen them used to indicate that a circuit is live.
Pomona Bill Thanks! As you might have guessed in my post I generally see these in an AC circuit where they often do function as transformers. Just as James Danner mentioned for himself, I have never encountered one installed in an automotive application. Live and learn
10 cents check, at idle runs on battery voltage with no major electrical load. To test, turn on headlight then see if battery voltage goes 13.5V to 14.8 V. ELD should be ok. My thought.
The sole purpose is to allow the alternator to not work as hard as it should. This, in turn, makes the engine not run hard too. The end results are the MPG goes up. This is to satisfy the Government, who puts pressure on all of the car manufacturers. Look at all of the problems with batteries failing because the ELD is not a realistic solution. Not everyone drives 50+mph on the highway every day which is needed to properly charge the main car battery.
Good to know all the diagnostic, though di you check to see the TSB for this car. Another mechanic on RU-vid showed us a TSB for this problem. thx again for the detail dx.
I have 05 Euro Accord. Also have P1298 ELD High voltage .. changed ELD (took a part whole fuse box to change that), but still this code appears in permanent section. It's possible that there is problem with ground wire somewhere in car. Also, when connected OBD2 computer, ELD shows minus 0,35A, normal would be some positive number, depends on turned on electronics. I am guessing, I need to change ground wires and hope for the best? But could bad ground wire mess with obd2 readings to show -0,35A?
So i have a 02 accord 4 cyl sedan. After having it sit for 2 weeks and i went to start it it refuses to start the fuel pump wont come on and engine light is one. So it cranks and turns over perfectly but wont start. I have an obd scanner coming in the mail in 2 weeks but want to figure this out asap. I removed the fuel pump and connectes it to the battery directly and it comes on and works fine. I changed the main relay and it made no difference. when ever i connect the pump to the car it wont come on. Also even thought the battery is full whenever i crank the car in that breif moment all the lights come off and the clock resets. I canot even get windows to move. Any advise would help Edit: turns out it was a bad ground
Bro i have check engine light on with this code, but in the fuse box dont have the ELD and nor does it have the connector where the part goes, what can I do?
Will this ELD mess with the ECU? I have an issue with the O2 sensor heater wire there is a malfunction and I just changed it but the issue still persist. I wanted to know if the ELD had anything to do with that issue. Can anyone help?
Good afternoon James. Where do u get the t pins that u and your brother use for back probing? Thank u! Anytime u use the Vantage Pro for recoding then viewing the recording it would b helpful to go over that where we can watch u push the buttons. U do it so fast u lose me.
Nice video, I have a 97 prelude with charging issues, a new battery has been installed and the alternator was rebuilt and tested fine afterwards off the car. When I turn on car it starts at 14.1 volts then slowly just draws the battery down, when electrical load is applied it reads about 13.5 and eventually the battery light and E brake light on gauge will illuminate once the voltage gets lower. I cleaned up the grounding points and checked cables for excessive resistance and even installed my obd 1 ECU to see if that could be the problem, same results occured. No CEL light has came on but do you still think this could be the cause and not allowing ecu to send the signal to alternator? I am still going to remove and visually check it meanwhile. Do you have any other suggestions, thanks in advance.
+Tex Mex 86 that's a good question. I'll try to research it a little and get back. I'm not sure what you mean by an obd1 computer. Anything in USA should have obd2 96 and up
On hondas you are able to do an obd2 to obd1 conversion by using a wire harness and obd1 ecu for tuning purposes. I swapped it to rule out the ECU as the problem
I have a 96 integra, that was B20B engine swapped and i have a code for a P1298 (ELD) but i go to the fuse box and their is no ELD, like no slot, so im at a stand still any help on that?
Do you know how to bypass the electronic load detector so the alternator was stay at higher voltages all the time please let me know because my system is suffering because of it
+James Danner I've read that if you put a 820 Ohm resistor on it that it'll drop the voltage enough to make the alternator stand high output mode if you Google it it's under is Steve Meade post it goes into detail with a relay and everything but from what I've read if you just use the resistor will do it check it out
Typical over engineering. Reads the amps being drawn across that bar, converts it to a voltage and that tells the ECM how much current the alternator needs to put out to keep things happy. Basically takes the place of the voltage sense wire on most other brands.
Amperage is a much better way to sense load. You can still have a high voltage with bad cabling but the current will be reduced causing you problems. This way, measuring amperage, it cannot happen.
+Jesse Langdon my Mitchell program shows one in fuse box behind right strut tower. It's top left if u are looking at it with the 2 main power wires on the left. Looks like 2 offset screws with maxi fuses at either end
