Change my vsv don't bother taking the old one out just unplug it and take out the hose and relocate the new vsv on top by the intake!!!!! Fuck that 12mm bolt you'll be there all day trying get it out.
Thank you so very much. You saved me with this video. I took my van to a repair shop. He changed the ignition switch and didn’t solve the problem and then he told me maybe in the fuel pump but the tank was full. He said it’s too heavy he can’t drop it Till it’s empty I was calling junkyard around to junk the van. I came across this video and sure enough I looked under my van and it has the same problem with the ground strap I bought one off of Amazon for $ 7.99 and replaced it in the van good as new thank you again. You are the man.
I’m suspecting the same insanity my 4.3. My MAF is new but it’s showing about 7 G/S. But my fuel trims are -20’s. The O2 is giving a rich fuel reading. I’m hoping this solves my problem. I want to update it to the new injector style
Update: replaced spider injectors with new style. And replaced MAF sensor. Still getting high MAF readings 7-10g/s at idle. Banks 1&2 still rich. Not sure what else would cause it
I just replaced this today on my 05 CRV with a stick. Lately it’s been having some cranking issues when starting it sounds really weak and I already replaced the battery in the alternator and I know that the previous owner had the starter replaced at a Honda dealership. Not to say that this one isn’t bad because they are known to be problematic on these cars, but I know that this ELD is a known issue with Hondas and there is a service bulletin on this issue in fact, so I went ahead and replaced it and already I can tell that the car is cranking over a bit easier now. I also took the opportunity to spray any corroded areas as well as the metal bar that goes through the ELD with electrical cleaner while I was in there. I haven’t tested the starter yet, but I do plan on doing that in the very near future to see what kind of cranking amps it’s putting out.
Can you please help... I have a BMW 2014 X3 F25 the Electric Water Pump Bleeding was working fine twice. Then, it stop after I used the Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer. The Engine getting hot. So, I changed the Thermostat and clean out the Reservoir Tank. Same issue. Should I change the Water Pump? Is there fuse that I should check? I got 3 Codes: 1) CD9010 LIN, Message: Electric Coolant Pump: Missing. DTC Status: Current 2) 1A2004 Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Line Disconnection DTC Status: Current 3) 1A2002 Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Short Circuit to Ground DTC Status: Current Please help :) Thank you & God Bless
Yeah me too. I have a 2000 Chevy Van 3500. The truck has an intermittent problem where it won't go faster than 60 and the speedometer shows 100. This happens after the ABS light come on and now no gas flow and I'm dead in the water. I can't find a bad ground and I'm sure that's the problem. I tried the jumper trick, no help there. Help please.
I followed all the same steps with a test light after assuming and changing the fuel pump. It wound up being the same ground. Thanks for fixing my headache
I just changed secondary pump & valve pump… then this code popped up ( what do I do)?P2440 Secondary_Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1
This video helped me solve my issue! Thanks!! I have a 2007 Chevy Express 3500 Passenger Van. It would not start and found there was no fuel in the high pressure line at the engine, after checking the fuse and relay for the fuel pump which were good. I was looking for a video on how to test the electrical line to the fuel pump and found this video. The flex/mesh ground cable described in the video was badly corroded on my van at both end. Took very little effort to break completely. I ran a wire from the the driver side frame as shown in the video to the negative terminal on the battery...the van started immediately. Bought an aftermarket black/ground cable from AutoZone and connected it from the engine block to the frame to replace the broken one at the same connection points.
are you located near pittsburgh pa? you mentioned bethel park just was curious cause i have a 99 gmc suburban which has been giving me a ton of trouble after an engine swap (done supposedely professionally) haha
Dunno if gou read these, but this was extremely helpful and straightforward. It can be difficult to test ignitors on toyotas, but looking for the 5v with the key is a great test for the igf
Thanks for being curious as I am too. I have #5&7 cylinders that are stuck open and my spider assemblyt is only 3 months old. I think the problem occured when I decided to add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in my gas tank of my 99 suburban. I wonder if I added more that 5o # of air to the fuel line if it would push any gunk through?? not sure how to separate the back half of the fuel line / tank from the front end. Regardless thanks again for your curiosity. Dino
My check engine light cleared for awhile after changing the oil but came back on, would be the VVT Solenoid perhaps? I got pretty much the same vehicle in the video same color and all.
I have the same sort of issue in a 2006 Chevy express 3500 the fuel pump was replaced in 2019 and then it went out at the end of last year and I just had it replaced like a month ago when I barely put any miles on it and I think it may have went out again. I have the same click as you I think it is from the ABS motor and my battery is currently dead. Can the bad ground cause the fuel pump to burn out prematurely have you heard of this? I found another video the guy was saying that the fuse boxes in these go out and they start shorting everything
Hi James, I’ve the same problem with my dodge charger, 2.7, I tried continuity between the connector from the computer and the positive from the battery but all the wires have a good continuity, and the problem continues yet, I’d change spark plugs, coils and inyector but don’t found the problem. The codes obtained of the scanner is p2308 and after 5 minutes P2303.
Great that uou put it fown to the injector. I replaced all six on my 98 rx300 as one was faulty. Once you get high mileage in these engines you really want to be proactive with maintenance and start replacing sensors and belts in ine hit if possible. My experience with older classic cars is that once components start to age fail the rest starts to go.
