I’m doing the same on a Rancher 350 and I tossed the shifter ecu to eliminate faults from developing on the display. Shift components are not needed to run, just the CDI.
Yes, I bought a regular splined foot shifter and used a socket, I tightened the spline section to a socket extension, and attached extension into the socket. Drill hole in socket and thread for lock bolt.
Im reading in the Honda atv forum from other owners that the emergency shift shaft components are not durable enough to become the Routine method of shifting. Basically, converting the ES to an S with manual shift requires more work than simply creating a shifting arm. The hazard is that the splined end breaks and parts fall into the gear case. FOD occurs and your SOL.
That's why I removed the gears from the es mechanism so there's no binding or fighting against the shift shaft when going through the gears. I use this quad almost every day for farm work and I've had no issues so far.
@@handy_andy_bobandy Looks like viewers are under the impression that just adding a shifting arm is the cure. The other work around is to bipass the ecm with additional wiring. The 2000 model looses the 2-4 readout on the cluster but the power shift module operates as it should. I have not had to implement this on acrecently awuired 450es. How many miles or hours were on the clock when you first experienced any issues with the ES?
@@Reliable1102Intel the quad had 6400km on it when the angle sensor went the first time. the second one only lasted roughly 100km so that's why I did this conversion. both sensors were Honda. like I said, I've used it every day on the farm and used it hard. so far no issues at all.
@@handy_andy_bobandy im glad youve not encountered a failure on the primary shifting shaft. Reports of the shaft tang breaking off have been reported. If that does occur, the tang becomes fod in the bottom of the case. Theres no warnings. Only excessive rotational movement after the tang sheers off. Good luck.
I bought a bike that was smoking. An the guy sent it with a spare engine but after I got home noticed it is a ES engine an bike is a foot shift. Can I do this without any problems do you think?
Yeah it shifts easier and basically the reason I took the gears out is because they will give resistance when you foot shift since the electric shift motor is also attached to the transmission and acting as dead weight since it isnt shifting. If that makes sense.
@@beauhunter2123 it shouldn't and I havent had any codes or problems after about 50km of riding afterwards, But im not a professional. Hope that helps.
So how is it doing far as shifting manually? I have a 2000 450 foreman an its have ES problems an would like to do away with the electronic shifting.. in theory it sounds like your 100% rite and it should be fine because your just going around the electronic shift. But have the shift shaft ther it makes sense adding a shifter an removing the shifting motor gears.. give me a shout please when u have time Thanks..
I've used the quad almost every day on the farm and have had no issues. Only thing is that the gear numbers don't show on the dash due to the angle sensor still not working. But I don't find it to be a pain. It still shows reverse, first, and fifth.
@@handy_andy_bobandy thanks. I did find a forum on the honda that's be4 2007 all the shift shaft are the same.. so basically what I can see is that ther all manual but some are factory converted to electronic shift. More or less as they roll down the line ther the same some get ES an some stay S.. thanks for your help..
@@handy_andy_bobandy your welcome. The mechanic at the Honda shop explained it to me..and that's how it took it that the only diff was a 12mm shift shaft vs a splined shift shaft. I'm gona tear in too mine an see how it goes..
My 99 450 ES machine won't shift up and down smoothly with the manual shifter. Currently, the shift motor and gears are removed, the key is set in the run position and the motor is not running when doing this test. I need to rock the machine in order for it to cycle through the gears. I've pulled the motor apart twice, "all the way to the shift forks". I have NOT found anything broken, worn, or bent to the naked eye. I was told that rocking the machine is normal in order to cycle the gears. You seemed to indicate that your machine shifts smoothly through the gears. Can you elaborate on that? I'm still not convinced that my issue is electrical rather than internal based on the poor cycling I am experiencing. Thanks for the video.
