Hello from Europe brother, thanks for this video! This fix worked for me, Couple of things tho: 1. You dont need the constant power source, only the 2 other wires are needed. But i agree a kill switch is a good idea considering the car doesnt have an immo anymore. 2. This will work with an OBD2 ECU if you combine this bypass with the bypass inside the ECU (open the OBD2 ECU, locate the small board named "immo ao" and just remove it) 3. If you want to keep your plug intact, you can use a paper clip to bridge the connector. Ps. for european brothers, the wire colors in our cars will be different than in this video, but they are plugged the same, follow the wire location on the plug, not the wire color!! Thanks bro, couldnt have done this without you!!!
@@Moneygrip I want to clarify, i think the reason you thought you need the constant power source is because your key ignition was in the off position 👍 sick video tho bro, ive been driving all day in the spring weather thanks to you
@@NjoyMoney nah it was just how the attempt worked out. There was no write ups or anything so i had to figure it out on my own and this was the way i did it. I was under the assumption that the immobilizer box broke constant power to the ecu so i threw a kill switch in
Heyy, you literally saved my life with my RD1 CRV. I welded a few things over the weekend with the battery removed, and it killed the immo, finally found a good vid about the wiring because the 1300 page factory service manual says nothing about the immo box pinout
Hey man the vid helped a lot, I had the same problem with having to bypass the immobilizer, but I had a push to start kit from JDI, if you use that and just connect the blue and grey wires together it works perfectly fine. I had to do this because I only had unprogrammed keys for my 01 prelude Edit- autocorrect error
Took it for a test drive (granted I stalled a few times cause I’m new to driving stick) it started back up with no problem each time, the only thing I’m trying to trouble shoot is the missing key light that keeps blinking
Well did you keep the immobilizer box in place bc that failed on mine and thats why i had to do this whole thing the blue and grey only do the starter circuit
@paulmendez2409 is this with stock obd2 ecu? I am looking at buying a prelude that has NO keys so I want to get the push to start kit and jump the gray and blue wires to see if it will start. Do you also need the immobilizer bypass chip on the ecu or did it work simply only jumping the wires?
The immobilizer sends a signal to the ECU allowing it to start or not start depending on if the ring reads the correct chip. The Chip in the key the immobilizer and ECU are all linked together. They are all a set, you can't just swap one without all 3. This may or maynot work but I have personally installed an OBD1 adaptor and P28/Hondata and it started just fine with no other modifications.
This works 100% with an s300.I have rewired my prelude completely and can confirm.If you're doing the same thing with a stock k24 ecu you need it chipped or k-tuned bypass module.But yeah essentially it just cuts the power n earths like he said.After that it matches the key signal to ecu and if they dont match it doesn't throw plug spark and other stuff.So there's 2 parts to ecu immobilizer(except obd1).So even if you bypass it without a chip.immobilizer bypass it will cry again.
Will this also help woth the ignition recall, inhad the recall done and my car still cuts out while driving. I cant figure it out. Also replaced the recall ignition switch with another one amd had to chip the ecu to read my key. Ao if its chipped will this still work?
Good work I’ll keep that one in mind! But I got another problem and hope you can help! I did a AT to MT swap! But I can’t figure out the neutral safety switch! Thx
Thanks for the video, I know this is a year old and you probably won’t see it but I am having a lot of trouble with my prelude. I just swapped in an engine and transmission, I even took the entire wire harness and installed it through the whole car. The key light flashes when I put in the key, so I tried this and still nothing. It’ll crank but it won’t start. Any suggestions?
so i got it turning over again you wqere right about the fuse.i swapped in an obd1 ecu but im still not getting any spark if i ground out one of the sets you did it wont let the starter kick over
Hey so lost my keys and new ones made but they didn’t work because I needed the original keys to add new ones but I did this video step by step and now my car turns over but doesn’t wanna start what am I missing or doing wrong thank you ! 😎🙂
Hey man.. i was doing a manual swap from -97 auto to manual do i need to change the immoblizer too? I had manual ecu which has been changed already and i also have immoblizer from the manual car .... but that wont register the key right? The original immoblizer should work right... I didn't have any problems with the immoblizer with the car ....
I did this and now the car cranks but I’ve lost my fuel pump. Previously it couldn’t crank and wouldn’t spark with the starter jumped but I could head fuel pump in the on position. Fully stock 97.
I did eveything as in the video i got it to crank but the crank died out does anyone have an idea as to why that is so now i have no crank but i could hear the fuel pump that’s abt it
sick bro, i just had a locksmith reflash my immobilizer & program a new key he made because I lost all the keys, green key light doesnt flash anymore which i think means its programmed correctly, but now it just cranks, no start no spark, you think it could be an immobilizer issue or could it just be a crank/tdc sensor or spark issue?
yea green key turns on, then turns off, it ran good before the new key was programmed, it had a code for tdc no pulse but it was running with the code for a while before this happened
So I’m having an issue with my 98 prelude I just bought it off a guy he said it’s salvage due to theft . Everything in car is completely stock ! Guy stated that only thing they took was the ecu . Car used to not crank over . I repaired few power wires I changed spark plugs and wires that got car to crank over and turn on for about 3 seconds then car shuts off I got fuel coming in . Got spark , fuel and air . I checked distributor everything was fine timing was correct ECU is getting signal and ignition switch is fine . I’m beginning to think it’s the immobilized due to theft issue and having to put another ecu in it . . Would this possibly repair the car by passing immobilizer ? This my last solution
Does your still work? Mine just started happening. I have hondata s300 too and mine keeps kill the ecu power. Does the switch burn out? How much power u making
The car broke on the dyno was shooting for 700+ it made 570hp on 19lbs and hondata is hot garbage i threw mine out because it was dropping the voltage for the throttle position out the ecu failed along with my immobilizer failure
There should be no reason to feed power from A1 (always hot) to A4 (hot in run). The A4 is only there to give the immobox RUN power. It doesn't reverse it to power things externally. If you had to do this then it means you where having an issue with your RUN power feed. May want to look into that cause right now your powering it all from the immo's original always hot fuse.
Aye brother so I’m basically having the same problem that your having, but there is a viper system installed on the car could that be causing me problems also. (Lost the viper fob). Should I or do I need to completely remove the viper
Dam you didn't have to cut the ignition switch wires all you had to do is by pass grey and blue wire from the immobilizer to send signal to the starter, I'm running a p28 ECU and use the HAmotorsports diagram and it worked great shot I'm even running a 4th gen ignition switch, unfortunately here in Nevada we have admissions so for a price of 99 bucks you can send out any ECU to them and they will remove the immobilizer with in the ECU this is for any one wanting to pass admissions and want to run stock, they will also show you how to by bas the immobilizer under the dash/steering wheel
I call bullshit on saying a chipped obd1 ecu won’t bypass an immobilizer. I’ve ran with an obd1 p28 for 7 years and lost my keys a ton of times and CAN still start my car without the key or triggering the immobilizer. Still a good and informative video.
The issue was the Immobilizer control unit itself in his car ended up with a problem that would kill power going to the ecu. In a vast majority of swap situations, it’d be like you said: OBD1 swap, Immobilizer Starter bypass to use any key if you choose, and start/run with no issues. However, the control unit is still in-line with the circuit. Since it is present and is still being powered in some capacity with relations to the ecu, a risk of problems in the future will be possible. Give current 5th gen owners who are stepped down to OBD1 another decade or two. Eventually, the Immobilizer control unit circuit boards will begin to show age and problems like he described will arise.
Then explain why my fix worked you saw it clear as day the car used to work just find then the immobilizer failed and heres the result it could vary year by year it could not this is what worked for me because i tried just having the immobilizer unplugged and then nothing worked at all. If you want to test it unplug your immobilizer and tell me if your car starts
@@Moneygrip but when I remove it from the ecu ground is turns over but the moment I put it back it won't let the starter go is there a chance you have any other social media I can get a hold of you on?
its a 2000 acura 3.5rl, tried getting an aftermarket repair manual like clymer or haynes, they dont make one. the immobilizer is the exact part that you showed in your video, just with different colour coded wires. i tried looking under the dash for the ecu, no luck so far. hope you can help, other than losing the one key i had, car is in good shape@@Moneygrip
There is a company that will remove the immobilizer out of the ecu for like $100, and you only need to jump a wire and unplug the immobilizer. But hey if you found a better way, i say do it.
Your interpretation of the wiring diagram is so completely wrong it hurts. Unplugging the immobilizer and tying the wires to the starter cut relay through in combination with an immo deleted ECU bypasses it If all it did was cut power to the ECU you could just connect those wires together and it would be bypassed on any 5g Prelude and we all know that doesn't work.
@@Moneygrip just because it worked doesn't mean your explanation of the system is correct in any way. Your explanation of the system was completely incorrect and your wiring diagram interpretation is laughable. The immo unit doesn't cut any power or ground to the ECM. Especially not ground.
