I was sent this CR Pug to look at as the owner was having trouble fitting the clip that holds the motor in place. Easy fix! 5 minute job right? www.buymeacoff...
Dear Sir, In your last video, the discovery of the failed insulation on the spring that holds the brushes was a real strike of a master. Hats off. Cheers from Brazil.
Hi, I think you deserve more than a 'coffee' for that 'quick little fix', ha, ha, That's where people like you come into their own, and keep the hobby alive. Excellent job. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
Hi, I would just like to thank you for your informative videos, I have set up a small layout with my Grandson. He is only six so I have bought 95% second hand stuff. As you can imagine some of it has issues but after viewing your videos it has given me the confidence & knowledge to tackle a few repairs & servicing. So once again thank you from the two of us & many other enthusiasts for keeping these loco's going.
dont worry about the age...a bit of oil and defluffing goes along way.....my top tip is keep the track clean alot of issues can be sorted with a track rubber or so 60 grip sandpaper.......hav fun.....both of you that is
These are Fun, versatile little Locos, and above all cheap if you buy then SoR and I have done several, the latest of which I have finished as GWR, which I think Hornby don’t produce. The first one I got about a year ago, came boxed, was less than a Tenner and ran on the track straight from the box. I contacted the seller to tell them it had arrived safely and he told me it had last ran on the track in 1983. Gobsmacked! 😶Thanks Bill 🙏🏻
When you uploaded your video I was just trying to get working my 56011 0-4-0 and it had the same exact problem so I was watching and doing the same thing and it works now
I have one of these locos. The trick to fitting the clip is to remove the diecast running plate then fit the clip, then put the running plate back on after. It was quite a grubby one when I got it, but after a bit of TLC it's a lovely little runner.
Congrats on a job well done! Heads up with thread locker: some plastics react badly with it. So super glue was a very sapient choice here. Would not want the plastic part of the wheels crumbling. Thank you and greetings from Finland!
These locos are built to a budget and are basically disposable. The difference in running characteristics between reverse and forward are basically due to the worm gear and motor moving by a small amount. A washer at the rear of the motor might help
Good repair that Bill, You gave me the willies as you removed and replaced that motor clip !! will he wont he stab his hand !!!!! I have 5 of these 040's , the verions without outside motion all run smoother?! The latest Caley pug model does have handrails on the tank and i beleive the latest Smokey Joe does too? Several years back in one of its many penny pinching moods Hornby left them off along with the cab handrail.just how tite could they get!!
If I ever do stab my hand I'll leave it in the video! Rarely happens actually. Might look precarious on video but I'm actually quite careful what direction the slip of a hand tool will go.
I'm having the same problem with my really old Smokey Joe where he is wobbling really badly and it's having a negative impact on his ability to run smoothly at slower speeds. If I gently press a finger on to one side of his cab whilst in motion, the wobble becomes much less and the running quality improves. It may well be the same thing causing this issue on mine. This is, I believe, the first version of Smokey Joe ever made because he has seperately applied handrails along the boiler like the C.R. Pug does in this video, so they will both date back to the early 1980's.
Hi Bill. It is really odd that you say it has such large flanges on the wheels. They were designed to run on code 100 rails. Unless you are using code 75 rails it should not have a problem. I have checked all of mine including the same model of the Caladonian Pug and that has small flanges. Very strange. I think this Pug dates from 1980 to 82.. It is the Hornby R057 Class 0F Pug 0-4-0. They made 45.000 of this engine alone. It cost RRP £8.95 in 1980 and the last model cost RRP £10.50 in 1982. The main difference between this model and a lot of the other 0-4-0 pugs was they put wire handrails on it. Believe it or not but the Hornby collectors guide list 105 different versions of 0-4-0's made by Triang and Hornby over the years.That's a hell of a lot of models
Really helpful video tutorial - but without you having zoomed in much closer to show exactly what you’ve been doing it probably leaves people scratching their heads a bit.
I have one of these motors dates back to the 80s the handrails are better than the modern day mouded ones but I have to say that's the most difficult way I've seen to put that clip on it takes less than 30 seconds to put these clips on
I bought one of these recently, NOS never been opened til my grubby mitts got at it and it is a lunatic on wheels, abs like greased lightning and it can pull pretty much everything I have in my stock with the dead engines just sliding along the rails in one long wheelslip. I think I have an issue with my controller as I cannot get any of my loco's to creep, 2 notches on the Triang 4.5 and its quite a lot of wellies but managed to source a grail of another NOS 4.5 boxed and original unused so expecting good things from the new controller and hopefully an ability to creep :D
If you are using an old Tri-ang controller, it's unlikely you'll be able to get anything to 'creep'. They used a very simple design, and are really only suited for locos of the same vintage. Getting a more modern controller (such as a Gaugemaster, and they've been around a fair while now!) you would see an immense difference in the performance.
Bill, are you _sure_ that your China-built Pug has a metal body? It looks exactly the same as the Margate-built model you've just fixed, except that you dismantled it differently. I have just looked at my China-built example, and it has the same metal footplate and plastic superstructure as the Margate Pug. The differences are that the China-built examples don't have the cab and tank-side handrails (or the first ones didn't), and latterly the motors have been fitted with an extra capacitor and a resistor (I think) in order to slow the motor down, and that's why there are different pickups. Interesting video, nonetheless, especially when combined with the feedback you get in the comments! (Thinking of other comments, not just mine!!!)
Wasn't there on the first 040's a little compliance bush that kept the long rod out from the wheel? Like a little plastic collet that just pushed the rod out so it didn't foul? I remember on a GW 040 having immense problems as I had lost the two little collet's and I think I just used a couple of plastic washers back then.
I want to thank you for your videos. They are always very informative. I thought that since you seem agreeable to help people I would ask you to help me with a question. I am in the US and have been working with trains for a little while. I mostly have models of 19th century 2-4-0 and 4-4-0s. After following several youtubers in the Uk on trains I thought that I would like to have some British trains. I found a old Triang Princess Elisabeth on Ebay, but it will not run on my setup. The little that I know about British vs US trains is that OO and HO are modeled on different ratios but that the track is essentially the same. The problem seems to be with the flanges. In this video you talk about the problem of the flanges on the engine. Can you give me some info on the flanges on British model trains. Are the flanges on models made today the same as the older models. What I am really asking is if I buy newer trains will they run on my track. Thanks again for you videos.
UK track changed a few times in it's history. I won't go into details but basically older models have larger flanges and older Triang wheels are especially bad on modern track. Avoid Triang and you probably won't have too much of an issue but there are maybe others who will have better knowledge of US track v UK locos than me.
@@hillmangt1 Thanks for your reply. After I asked this question I decided to just try and see what happened. I found that Hattons had used locos and bought several. I bought some used Hornby's and a couple of Bachmanns. There was no problem with the flanges but I found something strange about the used Bachmanns. They had a split chassis which I had never seen before. All of them had the same problem.....the plastic spacer between the wheels is broken letting the wheels wobble around. I learned not to buy those again even though they can bee very nice models. After I learned that the UK trains would run on my track I have bought a few new locos. I have fitted them with DCC sound decoders and I really like them. Again thanks for your input.
I recently bought one of these second hand. Mine wobbles and clunk's too. Is setting the correct wheel spacing the way to fix the wobble? Monique from Brisbane
Can be. Set it as close as your layout will handle. The other thing that could be done is to fit small washers to the axle of the front wheels to act as spacers. I keep meaning to get some suitable washers to try that.
A real shame that the actual railway works these were built at, are dormant with little effort to do anything but turn it over to property maggots and build crappy fall apart houses on. My daughter lives next door to the other works at Yoker but be a shame for St Rollux to disappear and one heritage railway chap wanting to turn St Rollux into Glasgow's Steam Town was knocked back by the landlord demanding ridiculous prices because he knows once its got planning permission for houses the site will be worth billions grr
