To stretch the spring - put a shaft of some sort through through it (a jewellers screwdriver, styrene rod or similar). Stops it pinging away and makes it easier to handle. Thanks for the video.
Hi Bill, Not a bad looking diesel considering it is probably 50+ years old. If you want a class 47 i would recommend the Lima one over the Triang/Hornby one. Thanks for another great video.
I went and had a look at the loco again. I removed the weight and there was an improvement. Then I had a look at the wheels on the trailing bogie and decided to replace them with new Hornby wheels. This resulted in even better running. The only thing left is to resolve the wiring from the rear pickups and I am sure it will be as good as new
talk about just in time I was about to give up on my 47 then saw this video tweaked the screws as you did and now its running fine .Thank you fordoing these videos thay are really informative in fixing old locomotives
Thanks Bill, I have been working on one of these myself. Springs both compressed to rings when I got it and that intermittent start like the armature was on a “bad bit” but it worked if you turned it slightly. Mine also had the pick ups on the trailing bogie melted away from the wheels by excessive soldering so I bolted them back in place using some small nuts and bolts. I’ll try slackening off the screws now to fix the dead spot so thanks for the tip
That would look good on your layout if he decides to sell it ask for first dibs ,I have one of them too and that chassis powered some early blue models have one of them too the difference on the early blue bodies is they don’t have the centre clip on the body under the middle door ,great video Bill 👍🏻👍🏻
Very interesting to see you working on all these different models, and impressive how you always seem to manage to get them apart and back together again, fixing the problems. It's really instructive to see all the various things that you have to do, and the things you try, to diagnose and fix issues. I always enjoy seeing the running on your layout as well. But I see that you still haven't repainted those silly black and white cows!
Afternoon Bill. Yet another great fix 👍🏻 Considering these were built as low cost toys so youngsters could start modelling. It shows with some of your TLC they come back to life too live again 🤣
Nice work Bill very shiny bodywork on that one, I dropped one of those brush holders on the floor ended up getting a pack of 4. Good idea with threadlock will use some next time.
Glad you did this as it gives me something to refer to. You might have seen that I managed to get the loco working although it is not perfect. I managed to get those caps back on but am now looking for some spares as I bent them a bit. Put it back together but the wiring is a bit of a mess and the wires from the trailing bogie are not hooked to the motor. I was hoping to get a close up of the wiring so that I could try to replicate how it is hooked to the motor. Once I put it on the track it ran but not perfectly and the trailing bogie derailed on sone of the points as if it was too light. I also backed off those three screws. I didn’t see a weight in your loco, was there one?
Rather than using your meter in continuity mode to test the coils , use ohms Mode to check resistance of each individual coil. Continuity mode will bleep if the resistance is below 50 ohms.
Sometimes the springs compress from the motor running hot after becoming dry and dirty many of these motors would benefit from a fabric washer to retain oil for a longer period some motors get them and others don’t, I can’t stand that scratching and squeaking you can get rid of it but you have to play around with the motor bearings and gears or last resort you can fit PS4 controller motors.
I f the owner had wanted to retain the original motor Scalespeed would have rewound the armature for him. The CD conversions I am not to keen on as getting a 12 volt motor can only be used on certain models as the casing is broader and sticks out of the ringfield housing. I have fitted a CD motor to my Lima class 09 shunter it was ok but much preferred the original pancake motor just me, and everyone to his own.
I find a lot of the noise is the gears not being oiled for years and getting loose and screeching at low speeds. My 9F is the same like that. Wouldn't bother with a CD motor conversion as the gearing on these is harsher than than the younger ringfields Great fix, wouldn't have thought of it myself! Regards WIll
Great video. Would never have thought of releasing the plate screws. Is there a washer missing from the armature shaft? And another thought... Is the thread-lock conductive? If not, you could be adding more problems for yourself. I found that a good (controlled!) squeeze with the pliers made them grip tightly enough -- except when refitting when the brush spring can easily launch the cap into oblivion! (Make sure you have some spare caps before tackling the next one!)
Those British Rail line workers are so realistic! Just the way that they stand there doing absolutely nothing all day, a perfect replica of them in real life - be nice to see some of them sitting around playing cards and getting drunk whilst abusing the passengers and urinating at the side of the tracks.
Hi Bill, can you send me a shot of how the wire from the pick ups are connected to the motor? I have searched the Hornby pages and they only show the traditional ringfield motor( or send me a link) Can. I buy those small connectors from an electrical supply store or can I only get them from Hornby? Thanks
Hi bill, have you ever converted on of these models to dcc. I have one to do but strudling with wiring. It's the one side of motor that connects to the motor and casing/track. Where do I put this on the 8 pin decoder plate. Can you help. Regards John. Ps the vidios are great.
I have one when I got it the bogies were broken and super glued together and derails on every curve the worst design ever, although I am still looking for a replacement bogie.
I have two such chassis with various states of damage/repair to the bogies. Not tried tackling them yet. Did have a look for replacements a while back, but I suspect they are as rare as rocking horse ...., and if you do find one, it'll be as expensive as a complete loco. Would be helpful for someone to 3D-print them.
Yes you can and I did. Just didn't make the video as it made no difference. Ring magnets don't really lose their power much as they are their own circuit. I only remove ringfield magnets if I have to as they tend to break quite easily.
