Jason who sent me the Bachmann 66 and EWS hoppers a while back has kindly donated this Hornby Class 67 in EWS livery to me. A huge thank you to Jason! Support - ko-fi.com/oobi... FAQ - ko-fi.com/post...
Great to see a newer Hornby model things are much more intricate on the newer models (endoscope is great) and may attract younger viewers to the hobby. This is what the hobby is about all machines are only 75% efficient and great engineering skills are born repairing models. Love the kitchen sponge cut out the protect the loco what a great idea for a modeller to save money. This is a hidden gem of a site and is a credit to the hobby.Love it when you say you have not repaired this type of loco but go on to fix it an inspiration to us all to go a try a repair. Look forward to more videos.
I have the same issue with the Bachmann locomotives, I discovered the bearing on the end of the worm gear needed a bit of silicone grease, not oil, and the noise stopped. Thanks for the videos, Bill, they are great to watch and very informative.
Wow - Very Nice - In as much as I’m a Die hard 2 wire tech Classic Dc Fan, I have to say I do like the lighting function and the Smooth running on these newer models - We’ll have to see if I’m gonna allow my principles to be compromised when I do a New Layout 😉☺️ Many thanks to your Benefactor for supplying this weeks Subject 🙌🏻✨
R3399 is the train pack number Bill, it came with 3 MHA 'Coalfish wagons in EWS livery very nice model. The endoscope camera works well Bill some great new angles on the repairs.
I've had the Hornby 56, same drive system, make the same noise. I found that the worm gear wasn't centered over the gear in the bogie and when the motor loaded up in one direction it made a noise. After a bit of an adjustment it was all quiet again. The Hornby, 31,50, 56, and 67 all have the same basic design of cast metal chassis and similar drive systems which makes for an excellent running model that will pull a scale length train with no problem.
The noise that stops under load is indicative of a CV joint issue, IE knocking and grinding in tight corners. I did notice that the wire that you had to solder back in place did appear to have signs of being trapped, as well as being short; it left me to wonder whether there are designed lengths of wire when the models are assembled, or whether that's whatever the assembler chooses to cut and solder.
Check the bearings on the motor and on the worm gear at both ends. Sometimes these can stick solid. I would try Cleaning all the old oil and grease off then check that the bearings are free on the shaft Then relubricate Hope that helps
Another great video - thank you. When wires are too short, I occasionally add a length to give me more 'wriggle room' when disassembling locos. You do, of course, still need to be careful soldering in-situ but in certain circumstances it can help.
Hi, I have 2 of these class 67’s in my collection, they are very good in my opinion, I may update the pcb’s to 21pin version if and when I can, I do like the look of the Platinum Jubilee class 67 in the royal purple livery, nice touch by Hornby remembering the late Queen Elizabeth the 2nd.
Hi I have and earlier DCC Hornby class 67 Rising Star which has taken to going slow. Its a little faster on analogue but still not what it should be. Any ideas?
Hi Bill, I’m not a million miles away from you and thoroughly enjoying trawling through your recent videos, some great tips and advice. Also well done re moving on donations to generate money for charity. A quick question, I’m always impressed with the results from your ultrasonic cleaner and wondered if you have gone for a budget model or opted for a de luxe model. Keep up the good work. Best regards, Gordon
Hi Bill, I spotted a thread on RMWeb where a guy had the same issue - noise one way coming from one end. He thought it was driveshaft related so maybe that is the issue, of course the answer was never posted. I know on the Hornby 60 there are small plastic washers on either side of the worm but looking at the service sheet (383B) I can’t see those on the 67. What I can see is that there are 7 small gears in the tower ( like a Mainline bogie) so maybe a dismantling and lubrication of those might fix it. Good luck with it.
i have several of these all make same noise been apart many times to investigate even tried the plastic washers no joy in the end i put it down to wheel flange noise when running solo
Very nice loco Bill.a more deserving chap I can’t think of……on the knocking noise…I remember from my motortrade days,drive shafts used to knock more on bends,could it be something similar? How far things have come on,when you removed the body etc and all that complexity,the scope is tremendous.
Good morning 00Bill. Yet another cracking video especially with the endoscope shots giving great detail shots giving a new dimension to your videos 👍🏻 Getting generous donations shows how much we really appreciate what you’re doing Bill. I’ve got something I’d like to donate so how do I send it? Cheers Stevie 👍🏻
I guess, the scraping sound may be due to longitudinal pivoting of the bogie (which allows the bogie to rock and to follow the rails vertically). Like, the bogie has too much play and is hitting any of the underframe detail, when it's also pivoting in curves. This may explain why it happens only in one direction (due to the particular displacement of the bogie) and why it doesn't happen under load (because the bogie will be held down by the weight of the wagons.) Should this be the case, reducing some offending detail to provide more clearance may help.
@@oobill It's something I had with a Dapol Class 121: while there seemed to be plenty of clearance, this didn't account for the bogie being dragged in a particular direction. (I guess, this is something where the experience of a manufacturer does show.) - But, yes, gears may be an even more plausible culprit.
I know that lube needs applying precisely & sparingly but have you tried the WD40 Dry PTFE Aerosol lube .. It will probably have more applications for rolling stock rather than locos but it is completely dry with no residue once the propellant has evaporated... Its one of those tins with a ball bearing inside so the teflon is obviously held in suspension
Hi bill u alright I have that 67 and just a thought the scraping noise could be the coupling hook scraping the rail as they sag down try taking it off and trying curve again
