One of the many items kindly sent to me by Eddie was this Hornby Class 110 3 Car DMU in BR green in need of a bit of TLC. Thanks to Eddie! FAQ - ko-fi.com/post... Support - ko-fi.com/00bi...
Hi Bill! Eddie here! Thank you for giving life to my old DMU! That’s not soldering iron damage, it’s plastic coated bell wire that degraded/melted in the box with the DMU, 20 years in a hot loft! The DMU needs destination boards on the front cab. I’m so pleased that this will run on your new future layout! All the best, Eddie 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for your brilliant video. I’ve just had a class 110 for my birthday and will be fitting a Hornby HM7000 8 pin sound decoder to it tonight at train club. 😊
Hi Bill, I've been following your overhauls and repairs for some time. I have the Class 110 three car set from what Eddie says they are about the same age. As bought it was a lovely looking model with the worst lot of running gear I'd ever encountered. I believe Hornby were forced to make some modifications. Had it not been the last present my late farther was able to go out and buy for me it would have been straight back as unfit for purpose. Apart from the motor bogies all of the wheelsets were out of tolerance in one way or another and even when the whole lot had been rewheeled the unmotored end would leave the track rather than take the curved route through a junction. I eventually worked out what was wrong. The bogies in the end cars were not pivoted in the conventual way they were restrained fore and aft in the curved end of the hole into which the bogie fitted, the weight of the body was taken by a pair of pegs one either side of the bogie which held the body up and slid on the underside of the floor as they turned. So there was significant friction resisting the bogie as it tried to pivot. My eventual solution was to cut some cubes of the black foam that is used in packaging and fit it adjacent to the supporting pegs. I determined the best size for the foam by trial and error. The aim being to support the body clear of the pegs but not pushing it into contact with the bogie frame fore and aft. Since doing that and fitting finer scale metal wheels it's been a great runner and a regular in my running sessions. Keep up the good work! Regards John Williams.
What a super repair Bill. Like others I too travelled on these regularly. They were based at Leeds Neville Hill Depot for most of their working lives. I hear Hornby are going to do a rerun of these.
Hi Bill , As a former resident of the Calder Valley I used to commute on these on a regular basis and as such bought the Hornby set when it was originally released . I have to say it is has always been a disaster in terms of its running performance due to the awful design of the bogie securing clips causing regular derailments . I have made several modifications over the years such as 3 pole to 5 pole motor , additional pickups and replacement wheels on all bogies. Last year I replaced all the bogies with etched brass components and fitted a new twin drive unit from Replica Railways , the result of which was a superb free running DMU set - Hornby then followed up with an announcement that they will launch a new updated version !
Hi Bill, I find that the Tamiya masking tape produces sharper edges with less bleed than normal household masking tape. You can use the normal tape for general coverage but use the Tamiya for where you’re painting up to. Great restoration as always. Cheers, Dave
I’ve just purchased some of the couplings you used in this video and they are brilliant and they work well. I would recommend them as well. Thanks Bill
Hi Bill, A great repair video. The body repairs look amazing, well done. I need to look at a coach of mine as I have a similar mark on the body so I'll follow your method. Regards, Graham
Hi Bill, you may well already know this but I thought I would mention it, I always found that a battery driver always was flat when I needed it, but I read that if you always remove the battery from the drill whenever it is not in use it will help, and indeed I very rarely have to recharge the battery following this advice, thanks for the content,
That was an informative restoration and it's an attractive looking set. That 'plastic wire melting into bodywork' thing seems to happen a lot and maybe there will be a knowledgeable person out there who can explain why it happens. I haven't had any external occurrences of it but certainly some with internal wiring. 👍
(High-level answer!) It's the plasticizer in the plastic that leaches out and melts into the other plastic. I had a whole load of diecast models stored in the big expanded polystyrene frozen food boxes, and the vehicle tyres melted themselves holes into the polystyrene.
I have that set cost me £30 i gave it a service but went in from the top rather than ping the bogie out like that,i didnt know you could do it like that ! Haha ;)
Hi Bill ,, I bought a 3 car dmu set just like yours in a joblot and when I seen the pics of the joblot i seen these green carriages and thought they were french dmu's but when i got them home i googled them and yep really nice condition and all wheels good so i give the motor a service like you did and it runs like a clock. Now I dont know if im doing the right thing here or not but evey time i clean a wheel I always give the axles a tiny drop of oil and the wheels spin so much more freely and even put the tiniest drop on the plastic axles go really well after a drop of oil on them. Cable ties ,, I have found the cable tie heaven and guess where at ,, Aldis haha ,, and a 500 pack of them for only $6.99 ausd. Woohoo... You done a good job on the magnetic couplers and the repairs ,, i might have to do that to my ones too. I think if you go closer to what you are running now would the corridor sections catch on each when travelling in the reverse or the pushing direction when going over points. Anyhoo keep the good work and gr8 video there Bill ,, Cheers from John in Australia.
The coach lighting looks very good. I have 2 DMUs One is from the early 1960s which is a three-car set. You had to buy them as separate coaches. The other one is a later 2 car-set which I have never seen running. (Except on a rolling road) Martin. (Thailand) I collect anything LNER or Earlier versions.
Your class 110 DMU might run better if you fit spare trailing bogie blocks to the non powered cars (same bogie frames). I did it on mine and it added weight to the trailer car (mine was a 2 car set).
Hi Bill. I am often referring your channel to people who mention loco servicing. Could you consider doing a full real-time video of a Ringfield motor service? (With 'Ringfield' in the title.) People who have watched countless of your videos will not need such a thing, but those new to your channel might find it helpful to see the process in full. You could refer to it from the description, and answer questions about your various servicing tools and liquids too. Just a thought.
Hi Bill, Another excellent video, as always. I’ve tried to email you to obtain your postal address. Have just resent this messageas it will address your ‘tools’ comment in this video. Happy Modelling! Tony🚂
Advice please? I have this BR Green Class 110. I want to light it and populate it, but I can’t see anyway to dismantle the coaches. Can you give me some pointers please?
How many time can we say DON'T run your trains on track that is on the carpet? I used to have one of these 3 car sets, mine was in the short lived livery of white with a blue stripe. Not a bad model for its time. Woould be nice if you could put head/tail lights in them!
I think we all did it at some point. A lot of these models I work on are old childhood treasures so it's only to be expected. It would be possible to fit lights.
