Another old Class 37. This one was sent to me by George who wanted it running for his grandson Max. FAQ - ko-fi.com/post... Support - ko-fi.com/00bi...
Hi there Bill, Here am I another newish to the scene of railways. Last active involvement was some 10-11 years back with grandson and nephew both how have moved on from trains and scalextric etc ! Just like George and grandson Max' I have been saddled with repairing some old Hornby engines one being the R751 - I notice George's has a 37 130 No. on the body where as the unit I have to repair has D6 830. on the body but the chassis etc is the same unit. So to the matter in hand Bill' I watched your video --- Hornby R751 Class 37: Repair request. and found it 1st class and will attempt the repair within the next few days as time allows, not to sure about the sorting the magnet out in the rebuild bt will persevere. I have watched 3 of your videos one being the repair of the Duchess of Sutherland and it's tender- easy when you know what your doing and familiar with the scene etc but managed to sort the faults out and it is running what appears near perfect thanks to you. A few more engines to attend to but with your familiar accent etc ( I am Edinburgh born living in Kent) I find it so easy to listen to and follow the instructions hopefully all my attempts will prove successfull. Thanks Bill for the easy to follow video keep up the good work, fantastic. Cheers Rick' - Kent.
Well done Bill - thanks for the video - I always look forward to them! Very impressed with the repair - great to see these older locos being put back into service.
Evening Bill, another great repair. It’s really good to know that your repair has added to the history to this being past on to the next generation. Another life of enjoyment. Wow a true repair. So well done, another enjoyable and highly informative video. All best Marc
a piller drill vice might be the sulution to fitting worm drives just took a look at my clarkes piller drill vice and it does have a flat area to place armature. great vidio as allways keep doing what you do far more entertaining than tv. regards sam woodward
Hi Bill this model with the number 37 130 and the old worm drive motor was only made for one year in 1977 and the following year it received the ringfield motor but still with the 37 130 number till about 1979
Yes agree with Kevin. I bought one in a set with 4 mk2 coaches. Bought with my paper round tips. 37 130 with the older motor. Still got it and it still runs if a little noisy. Great vid
Lead weight, I use from Piano Keys. I'm a musical Instrument Tech. Keys are weighted with lead. Useful for making weights in a plastic container or for weighting coaches and tenders. Great video. Lots of information. Thank you. Gavin in Milngavie.
Hi there Bill ,, yet another great fixit video. I like how these sound and are a tad similar as in the groaning noise they all make and the knurled wheels on the drive wheels sounds great too. They also sound very similar to the 42 class GM locos we have here in oz. I finally tried that tee cut stuff you use on the commutators on a flying scotsman tender driven loco i have here but they call the teecut is called brasso here in oz ,, and guess what m8 ,, it works a treat. I also had 1 of them oh derrr moments when i was using it. I got a wiff of the brasso and got an instant flashback memory to when I used to have to clean all the brass taps and the coppper pipe work and the brass change tray and ticket puncher or the ticket cachoonka (old cast iron ticket date stamp machine) as we called it back in then when I worked on the railways. The oh derrr moment was why didnt i think of brasso , copper , brasso , they should work well together haha. Anyhoo thqnks again. Cheers from John in Australia.
Brasso is just a metal polish for soft metals so will work fine. T-Cut is different stuff and really meant for rubbing scratches out of car paintwork. But it works for cleaning too.
Hi Bill, Another great success in saving older models. I must admit that this one when fixed runs really smoothly. Well done. As for Frankenstein models, I have a Hornby bodied class 37 running on a modified Lima class 37 chassis. That runs really sweetly. I am thinking of putting a CD motor in it. But that's a project for another day. Please keep these videos coming, as they are immensely enjoyable.
This loco is greater than the sum of its parts. Love a bits n bobs runner. Gives them character. Great video Bill and I see your guitar on the wall now has a body!
Got to love those old Triang 33s. Great video and how familiar is that pile if bits and pieces!. Can remember going to the local model shop with my late father to buy a BR Green version in the late 1960s which although battered, still runs well and will keep her running as longs as possible. As for being noisy, enjoy it as the real ones definitely are!
I had a Hymek back in 70s that would not run that's my dad for bought me .My Grandad tried to fix mine but he couldn't so he sent it back to Hornby and Hornby fixed it free of charge and send it back with a with a compliment slip voucher for 3 wagons that I could take to any dealer I said that they don't send out any loco that are faulty and do not want any children to be disappointed
@@oobill It was two week .the voucher was just a compliment slip with it written on to take it to any Hornby supplier three wagons for free it's what my grandfather wrote in the letter that's why I got what I got
Hi bill. I have the issue with original bearings going from letting the loco run silently (quieter than my Bachman 37!) to starting to screech at certain speeds to full on racket. I got new bearings and fitted them but still a bit noisier than the perfect original ones. I found the top plastic housing to be a bit loose and causing a bit of noise from brushes not being worn in in all the positions it went to so the moving housing changed the noise output. Degraded bearings is all the problem I ever have now with these X337s and they’re beautiful when as they were designed to be, as I said one I got ran quieter than a modern £100+ loco. Oil and love is all they need eh Great to see it fixed, hope to see more like it Regards Will
Yes a loose housing is another issue these motors can have. It results in vibration and noise. I've cured it in the past by drilling a small hole through the housing into the metal of the bogie frame and fitting a small screw to hold the housing firmly in place.
@@oobill same on the hymek ,but i find on the 31/37 the lugs on top of the metal over the bearings can be simply given a small bit of blu tack and the plastic housing is held firm by that pressure and the bolt/nut through the magnet. On the Hymek i find buying a new housing from peter's spares and adding a bit of blu tack to the inside of that as you push it down also holds it down
Hi Bill, I'm having a devil of a time finding those bearings for the X247 armature, checked on the sites in your FAQ's would you be able to give the part number or a link to these vital parts, also S5452 housing is available from Peters Spares I have found this part to wear out as well thank you for doing these videos as I appreciate the time that goes into making these videos. 😊
Thanks Bill this made me smile I’m sure George will be pleased regards fred ps doing some bits myself and yep a really old mainline 03 Shunter being a lumpy runner
To get them quiet you may need to fit new bearings, check your back to back, check the motor housing fits tightly, swap the drive wheels about or replace them and you might need to push and pull the worm gears a little to get the best mesh between the worm and drive gears. It can take a of of trial and error.
Hi Bill. Just wanted to thank you for your in depth easy to follow instructions whilst you restore another model. I recently purchased a D6380 slow runner from FB. As I have just began my Model Railway journey I would have been very disappointed to receive this model that doesn't in fact run. This morning I embarked on my first attempt at servicing a model following my watching a few of your videos. I've just placed an order for two missing traction magnets as previously they had been replaced with what looks like milliput (or the like). I will no doubt now need to re-magnetise the magnet but wondered what machine it is that you have? I have seen some items to magnetise and demagnetise screwdrivers and wondered if these might work the same? Another question I have is the Ammonia solution you use to clean the metal. What is it actually called ? Keep the great videos coming. Best Wishes
How do you get these motors to run so well and quiet? I have just rebuilt one with new armature bearings and rewired with everything cleaned with a good armature and new brushes. When it runs it keeps making a screeching noise, any ideas?
Check the back to back on the drive wheels (should be no more than 14.1mm and no less than 13.8mm) and play around with the position of the worm gears. Try to set them so there is very little movement of the armature initially but if still noisy try moving the one on the commutator end out again very slightly. I've seen me dismantle and re-assemble a dozen times to get it right so it requires a bit of patience. Another thing to watch out for is if the plastic housing is loose. Shim it or screw it to the bogie to stop it moving if it's loose.
@@oobill Have you been using this stuff for long? The Victoria and Albert Museum warn against ammonia for copper-based metals: www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/cleaning-metals-basic-guidelines/ Thinking of the pinkish hue at 7:10?
It's a very weak ammonia solution with cleaning agents. That article also says the same about brass but this is specialist clock cleaning fluid so for use mainly on brass. It should always be rinsed off afterwards and does no harm. Very, very clean copper is slightly pink but soon tarnishes.
My guess would be that wheels that are insulated on one side have plastic bushes, doubt the plastic would survive soaking in an Amonia based product. Just a guess, I may be wrong.
