I know it's not the most difficult thing to fault find on, but to many, it's beyond their means. The way you go about remedying all these issues is just wonderful. I never miss an episode. Well done done Bill.
I love how much I'm learning from watching these superb repair videos. The big problem is that everytime I see you repair a loco, my brain says "Ooh I fancy one of those" and I head to eBay! 🤣
No the “Screeching” would have been coming from the motor drive shaft bearing, usually the one in the plastic cover plate that covers the commutator. This was an issue that I was aware of when I was still a kid. In the mid 1970s.
Absolute classic dry mechanism....the amature shaft through the hole nylon motor plate. Can have loads of lubrication, but if its not in the right place....
Well done .... nice repair. These models are ideal for changing to double motored versions. If you had a spare motor chassis, you could replace the motor wheel sets fitted with traction tyres with the wheelsets from the trailing bogie. These are also fitted with gears - but not with the traction tyre grooves for the tyres. You then end up with two motor bogies with no traction tyres. Both simply clip into the chassis frame. You will need to add some ballast weight to compensate for the lack of traction tyres. Again you could add additional contact wires to make it all (eight) wheel pickup. The 21/29 will then run with what is effectively a 6 pole motor (2 x 3 poles), with the tractive effort of a modern model. Ironicly the Hornby model despite it's body molding inaccuracies was a more reliable locomotive that its real life counterpart. Whilst the Dapol version is far more accurate (out of the box), the Hornby model can be made into a far more accurate model for less than half the price of a Dapol model. Keep up the good work!!!!
Excellent video. Years ago I used to repair cassette players that were fitted into Hammond Organs. The motors regularly made the same screeching noise that the loco did. Turned out it was a dry main motor bearing. My gut says that the main motor bearing was dry and as it vibrated the motor slowed down. I could easily be wrong of course and as you oiled all the bearings including the main shaft on the motor the loco is running lovely. I really do joy your videos. Thank you.
Lovely old job Bill a very enjoyable watch as always.Since i have watched your workings ive often heard you say a wee scooch when you use the cleaning spray,i have never heard that word before :)
There's a Tender Drive 'Duchess Of Abercorn' coming into repair time view on my part soon too. Same issues. There's a few Ringfield Motors around! Nice repair and excellent result. Keep Safe now, sir. Cheers!
@@PeterJewell2 definately mate, I've made it policy all locos must have ringfields or lima mechanisms (later slower geared ones), or triang motors, most of my stock is either lima or hornby ringfields just so I can service them
I bought one of these a few years back off the well knows auction site. The photographs were not particularly good but it was described as "can't see any marks" and "runs in both directions". Well, the seller must have had poor eyesight, and the motor was so full of oil it could only manage a crawl with billows of smoke! A flush glazing set sorted out the worst of aspect of its appearance, and I think improved on the original Hornby glazing. The motor was cleaned up and ran very well indeed. The only issue I have with the model is its appalling running after it has sat for a few weeks - its wheels always need a clean and it needs a good run to get rid of its jerkiness. Once it has run in, its great again! Thank you for the video, and I agree, the additional weight is an excellent idea for this model.
I got one of these of e bay recently in blue and a ok runner , like the class 21/29s and there is a great recent book about both classes which I got too and a class that hasn't been covered much by the railway press.,
had this with a class 37 a few years back, like you say, its the plastic gears, if you watch and turn the power up till it starts making the noise, you can see them start to vibrate.
Thanks heeps for the shot of T Cut there Bill ... Now I can see what it is I can look into getting some or at least something similar. I myself have fixed a heap of ringfield motors and the X103 and X104 hornby motors and had the same screeching noise happening to them and I mostly found it was lack of lubrication or dry bearings as the lack of lube is the thing that is stopping it from spinning freely at max speed and I checked these with the motors out and no gears attached and also before oiling and cleaning them and they made the same screeching noise .. I had a triang davey crocket that made the same noise as it hadnt been run in 40+ years. Oil and lube is a good thing for older items so thanks a heap for showing the tin on the camera.. Cheers and thanks from John in Australia.
Have had the same issue on a hornby black five tender drive. Sorted it out but didn't know how could of been same problem. Got a affix royal scot giving me grief bogie wheels lift up on inner rail on bends will sort it just need to be patient try try again. It's good fun getting old locos up and running again. Keep up the good work bill always helpful, regards Sam Woodward
1:11 "I'm guessing it's gears." You are, undoubtedly, the expert but I really don't think you can rule out demonic possession so early in the investigation.
The Vintage cars/ trucks could have a corner of the carpark and be part of a "Classic car" show? My Dad used to call his old layout a "Historic railway" as it had a mixture of liveries and rolling stock/ engines from early steam to late diesels and electrics.
hi , good video,great to see the older hornby models getting attention, but why dont owners maintain them ? instead of waiting till a breakdown occurs,its not rocket science
It's screeching for the same reason that fans with worn bearings screech. One of the large gears is getting into a modal oscillation due to the inside diameter having worn too large allowing the gear to flop on the bearing (front to rear). I'm not sure if I've been able to describe this properly. Basically, it's either the stalk or the inside of the gear is worn.
I had a similar issue with a Hornby Class 25, though its real problem was that someone had likely reinstalled the wrong gear after a service, there was a good 1mm difference between the diameter of the pivot hole and the pivot itself. Ordered some replacements and it runs well now.
Hi Bill, Great video thank you. I have a decent collection of BR Diesel Loco's all of which I love but have 3 which are problematic. Class 8 which runs well but has a click clack sound as it moves. A lovely green Class 25 which also runs well but has a random screeching noise and an old Triang Hornby class 31 which is slow and graunchy in operation. Can you offer me a repair and service for these locos please.
I've a question for you, I've a couple of lima locomotives that have issues with turning, the motor bogie gets jammed in the chassis and derails as soon as it comes off a corner
Search you tube, I watched a video on fixing this just a couple of days ago. As the plastic ages it swells and the bogie jams against the frame ends, solution file and sandpaper a mil or two off the frame.
You can buy conversion kits that include a CD motor and a printed housing to mount it in the original frame, but they aren't without their own issues -- I believe that many tend to run faster than the original motor (not a good thing for realism!) and may not have as much torque (= less pulling power). In general, I prefer to keep them as is, especially the Hornby motors. But I do have a tender drive loco that may need conversion: I've given it the full OOBill treatment, and it's still not good. It was an eBay non-runner and the inside of the motor was in a bad way -- I even found a strand of copper wire embedded in the plastic cover, and I think that had been shorting the brushes!
Traction tyres ! The reason the British (unlike any other Nation) always seem to have issues with traction tyres, is because no one it seems, has ever pointed out that you must NEVER push a traction tyre fitted loco for even ONE INCH along the track, or you strip the traction tyre! Quality manufactures do not just rely on the traction tyre being "tight" but also add a "tacky" glue, to resist slipping. (Something Hornby seem unaware of !) Traction tyres being rubber will stretch, so a "hand from God" pushing the loco along the track, immediately disables the traction tyres ! Once they come loose they can no longer work effectively. On the contrary they simply let the wheel spin within them !!!!
