Perfect! I followed your instructions, and it went flawlessly. I added some improvements: 1. I've cut the top of the plate in at an angle downwards, So that rain will fall towards the bracket and not the wall. 2. I sealed the top and sides with silicone caulking. I left the bottom without any caulking, So if there will be any water intrusion, it will have somewhere to drain.
This instructional video is way better than anything giraffe tools had to offer on the topic of installing over siding. I plan to get another retractable hose and I'm going to go with hose link
My solution (inspired by a compilation of several RU-vid videos): I dug a 3' Simpson Strong-Tie spike into the ground, then screwed a 4' x 4' post to the base of the spike. I then slid a vinyl fence cover over the post. To top it off I added a solar cap. I screwed the Hoselink bracket to this. Result is excellent, functionally and aesthetically, and much better than penetrating the house siding with the bracket.
Yep! Completely asinine. Took my 2 weeks after receiving this in the mail to finally find the time to get the 3/4” treated plywood, black paint, wood screws, etc. Finally got ready to mount it, got all the way till you screw it in the four corners with a washer…but oh wait! Included instead are 4 hexagonal screws and cannot be screwed in with a Phillips like this video (and the instructions) indicates. What I got was four bolts, basically, that need a socket set to screw in. As a working mom with 4 kids and NOT a lot of time, this making-of-the-backer board has been SUPER frustrating and easily avoidable if Hoselink just provided this to begin with.
Hi@@Hayleylily , thanks for your feedback. Please note this video does show the bracket installation completed using a socket wrench, in line with our Product Manual installation tool requirements of a 3/8" socket set. We appreciate there are a range of tools available to consumers and would like to clarify that a 3/16 drill bit is to be used for creating the pilot holes (for timber or siding), and then a 3/8" socket wrench or socket drill bit for the included bolts. If using a socket drill attachment, you may wish to also use a 6" extender to ensure maximum ease of installation. Please note that Philips- or flat-head screwdriver attachments are not suitable for this task. If you are unsure or have questions, we would love it if you give us a call on our Customer Service number.
@@hoselinkI think when she said Philips she was referring to the part in the video where they literally say to use a Philips screwdriver to tighten the screws into the bracket. But we aren’t provided with screws in the kit, we get bolts instead. Just an inconsistency in the video instructions that adds confusion to what is already kind of a messy process
I love my Hoselink hose. They never kink. You can always get spare parts if needed and on their website here in Australia they have videos for all the products so you can't go wrong. I put mine to a board and connected it to my metal fence with bolts.
Another mounting option is to put a treated railroad tie type of timber post in the ground or garden (dig a hole and set it with quick-set cement). Handy for renters too.
Carley needs to do an update to this video. Instructions now have a wall bracket template and recommend 35 inches from the ground, instead of 34 inches. This "timber installation" in the user manual doesn't mention the backing board, so this is optional.
I bought a professional stud finder, and installed per instructions. Unfortunately, I must have missed the stud because the whole unit sagged after a couple of hours and was going to tear the siding off the house. I don't want to put another hole into my siding, so I'll go with a post install. However, I just found out that Hoselink does not sell the pre-made posts that have a cap install hole and that are made for this unit - they only sell them in Australia for some reason. Fine - I'll put a 4 x 4 into concrete. This process is turning out to be more of a pain in the neck than I wanted it to be.
Also, I should add this info - if you have metal siding your stud finder is useless. I measured from an interior wall and used the same measurement outside from a window, but missed the stud. So this process is not always as pain free as in these videos.
Sorry to hear you had these issues, our customer service is always available with advice if you need tips on the installation. We're also happy to let you know that the Mounting Post is now available in the US: www.hoselink.com/products/hose-reel-stand?_pos=1&_psq=mounting+post&_ss=e&_v=1.0
I'd imagine it's important to seal the penetration holes from the backboard to the siding with caulk, but I don't know how I'd handle that here, since there's no access to those after the board is installed. Any advice to mitigate water entering the siding?
Hi there! The hose reel comes with a 6.5ft leaderhose, but you can also buy a 6.5ft or 16 ft leaderhose extension. So to your specific example, you can mount your reel 10ft away from the faucet, but you do have to buy a 6.5ft leaderhose extension. If any of this is unclear, please don't hesitate to give our friendly customer service staff a call!
Hi Raymond, thank you for your message. That's strange that the stud finger won't work through the vinyl. Another possibility is of course to avoid installing on the house altogether and use our Mounting Post. But it would be great if you can call our Customer Service so we can talk to you and asses your individual situation a bit better. I'm positive we'll find a solution!
Hi Kevin, don't hesitate to contact our Customer Service if you need any advice or tips on how to best install the reel at your location. Remember, if you don't want to drill holes on your siding, a mounting post can be a good alternative: www.hoselink.com/products/hose-reel-stand?_pos=1&_psq=mounting+post&_ss=e&_v=1.0
@@shane250 IN this video, they are drilling 2.25 inches for the 4 mounting screws, so they would also go through the siding. I assume this is necessary as that is likely the length of the screws included with the packaging. Thus, I agree it sucks to have to drill four other holes in the siding.
@@robertpreston2770 Oh, yeah... That's silly. I bought a different brand, but same mount and everything. I just put 4-5 washers on each screw so it would only reach the end of the plate, and won't go through the siding. I also cut the top of the plate with an angle opposite to the wall, so rain wouldn't drain towards the wall, and caulked it all around the plate, and between the mount and the plate, avoiding the bottoms (So if there ever is some water intrusion, they could drain from the bottom). That would keep the wood plate from rotting even longer.
