Great video, have done all these steps, fuses, volts, ohms, still not heating, no error codes. The COOL orange button illuminates when i try to heat up, any advice or help appreciated. Thanks
I have balboa rs101. What if no power to heater? Pump running ok. No error codes heating light on and just replaced element. Thinking board but what relays control heater? Pulled board no burn marks. Possible relay??? Please help. 120v coming in
Unplug the heater element cord from the board and test the plug on the board itself. You have 3 spots, only test 2 of them (not the one close to the green ground wire). You should get 120V. If not, Its the board.
2 things. Make sure that the pump pushing the water thru the heater is working. Make sure to pull the filters. There should be an error code before the HH. It still could be a sensor issue but other things will make the code come up.
Balboa RS101 control board. I removed the board and nothing is burned or indication of board heating. Each relay coil measures either 80 or 160 ohms. Heater element is 15 ohms. No voltage on element. Just doesn't heat. There seems to be sufficient flow. It is in the standard ST mode. I don't see anything which looks like an error code. Do these have a history of burned relay contacts? Spa is 7 years old. Am I missing something before buying replacement board or tearing this one apart? Thanks
i Have a master spa and stopped heating replaced heater and no difference. BalBoa EL1000 Mach 2 board. Have voltage coming in and heat light displays on panel. Do not have 240 on heater terminals. Relay?? if so don't see identifying numbers to replace. How could i find the proper relay.
Hi great video, my spa is the same and when the filtration was running the pump was making funny sounds, now it won't filter and wont heat I turned it off and on put it in stranded mode, the heater light then come on.... then flickers then goes off I have checked the fuse and its fine, do you have any idea what it might be? thanks Wes.
Is the pump that pushes the water thru the heat tube running now? What noise? Could be a bearing or capacitor. When the heat light flickers, that means that it's thinking about heating.
Great Video! I have the same heating element in my 2005 marquis hideaway spa. I have no voltage going to the heating element through those two copper straps. Does this mean that my heating element is bad? I figured when the “heating” light was on, I’d get voltage to the heating element regardless if the element is working or not.
99 percent of the time, it's the element. Still could be the relay, but don't think so because that normally will trip the breaker. Change the element first
I have a bp7 tp600 2 pumps,both 2 speed,a blower, and a circulation pump but when i put it on program 1 the 1st pump will not run with my heat causing a no flow issue, if i switch to program 6 it works but my circulation pum wont work on that program any suggestions
Have ran all these steps I have no code on my display and tub still won't heat. Board is fairly new with no visible damage. Have changed the coil already as that had gone but now it still won't heat. It does heat sporadically but once it gets to temp it won't heat and temp drops significantly.
Hi there, I’ve currently got my spa set to heat to 38 degrees Celsius. However it’s not getting past 36 degrees. I’m getting 22ohms across the heater and getting 0 volts when testing the heater itself. Any ideas? Thanks
I have a Balboa VS511Z, The heat light doesn’t come on, I have 120V on element, Heating element in circuit shows 10 Ohms. Can the heating element cause this no-heat condition?
Sensors won't sync is the code I'm getting. Balboa BP pack. Looks like a m7 heater. Should I replace the sensors or the entire heater. Won't heat at all.
Thanks ran through all these steps. In Colorado so freezing is a big risk so trying to fix myself - No panel errors, circulation pump running, Heating element tests good, heating light is on, relay on the left closed, on the right first relay closed, second open. My second relay on right in series is open, heat light is on but the relay is open . Failed relay or do other sensors like the M7 control that relay? Any ideas what can cause that or other testing I can do? Can I replace the relay, I assume that is not an option so something is telling that relay to stay open or it failed? But if it is system telling it to open then seems like the light would be off or there would be an error message. Thanks for any suggestions!
What spa pack is in your hot tub? Model Number on the top of the pack) Look on circuit board for any burn marks. Might have to look behind it also if everything tests ok.
Is everything working? Did you test everything? Do you have normal flow? How many pumps do you have? Name and model of hot tub? Also, if your worried about it freezing, follow this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yca83KAqzhc.html
@@VIPPoolsandSpas Everything but heat working, it has a circulation pump and it is pumping at normal volume. Replaced the heating element but no change and there is not voltage across the terminals. Can trace the voltage to the second relay on the right side connection and that relay is open with the heat light on. The hot tub is a Master Spas Twilight 8.2 with three pumps and the circ pump. To test I have disconnected the three main pumps and the control panel with no effect, no error messages on screen. Thanks for the link to the freezing instructions.
@@johnkirkpatrick9973 If you have volts and amps and NO HEAT. It's the Board. NOTE: test amps also. If you have NO volts and NO amps, its the heater element or restricted flow. . It also depends on what spa pack you have. You said M7. whats the model? It's on the top of the spa pack (control pack)
@@ericsvenpladsen9499 My first Balboa control system came pre-wired for 240v and my replacement was wired for 120v. There are all of these jumper wires I needed to understand to ensure everything was gettting 240v. In my case the heater was only getting 120v because the jumper config wasn't using both black and red hot wires. I also needed the right dip switch settings for my pump so it new to run the heater at the right times.
Hey VIP pools and spas, I have a QCA spas hot tub with a Balboa VS300AV P/N 55506 and the heater stopped working so i changed it out (The whole tube including sensors) and it fixed the problem for a few weeks and now its not working again. Checking voltage coming in is good (neutral black 120, neutral red 120, black red 240) but checking the heating element posts is 0 volts. What are the odds another heater crapped out or would it be a board issue? No flow codes and the pump is working good, pulled the filter out as well to rule that out
@@VIPPoolsandSpas no 0 volts, if i have one lead on the neutral and one on the first post its 120 v and the other post is 120 v as well but with both leads on the posts its 0 volts
@@coyko3953 If you put the lead on neutral and one one red (120v). If you put on neutral and black (120v). If you put on red and black (240v) If thats what you did, something is wrong at a breaker. Also, make sure all those wires coming in are in there good.
@@coyko3953 Did you ever solve your heating problem? I have the same symptoms, and I'm not sure if I should change the heater element or the circuit board.
Balboa spa pack MXBP501X New element. No volts or amps at heat tube connections? 240v coming in. Runs fine and shows its heating. But its not. Relay bad? Please help
The circuit breaker tripped recently in the winter. When I switched the power back on I was getting a sn code. I would get it to run but it wouldn't heat and eventually shut down with a hh code. Do you think I might have an ice blockage somewhere.
I have a Viking Spa model PSL AURI serial number 16022000 No power to heater? No sure if it's a board issue? Fuse seams ok. sensor issue? Relay issue. No codes, heat light comes on. but no power to heater. How can I check the relay??
Hi VIP Pools and Spas. - hoping you can help. I have a Balboa BP501 that isn't heating. I can measure 240 across red/black on input block. I isolate the heating element and it measures about 11 Ohm. There is no voltage across the heating element posts when topside is calling for it. No errors given and just runs the pumps as it calls for it continually. I can measure 120V from each side of the element post to ground. All other functions are fine, pumps, lights and cleaning cycles. I assume it's the relays at this point but haven't pulled the board out to review closer. I did get a few "the heater is too hot" errors on a water change that was completed about a week before this happened. They were cleared from the topside and it continued to heat and did reach a temp of 102. Any thoughts you have would be greatly appreciated!
@@VIPPoolsandSpas hey thanks for the help here. amps are measuring zero as well. seemed odd to me that I could measure 120 from element plug socket on either side to ground but I guess the relay closes the grounding not the supply? I guess I am pulling the board to confirm the relays, I can't find anywhere that gives the specs on these relays but assume they should be widely available to purchase and solder/replace. If you have any info on them I'd sure love it THANKS AGAIN SO MUCH!
@@VIPPoolsandSpas the element? But I can measure 11-12ohm on it isolated from controller. Begining to think I will replace it regardless while I'm in there based on age. Unfortunately, I'm a bit further north than blue.
i replaced heat element, checked for air locks, i have voltage at the element. and if you shut valves on the union to heater, it gets hot. At the filters their is no sucking . pressing jets 3 on immediately cuts the heating symbol off. no error codes. any advice greatly appreciated
Hello I have a balboa and we are not getting any power to the hot tub. We replaced heating element a few months ago is been ok. Checked all fuses were good .. nothing.. replaced the mother board and now top side and still nothing.. not tripping breakers, power going into spa pack but nothing..about to order a new tub. This is a Dr wellness x-3 model..any ideas on what else causes no power? ..we tried disconnecting items no pumps, no power to topside at all..
Hello, hopes you can help, i have a VS100 just converted to 240v followed spaberry inst. And you tube video so that's good. Heater does nothing tub says it is. Get 15 ohm at heater unplugged. Gets 120v each prong when testing to neutral at heater when plugged in. Unplug heater and test plugs on board White=1.5V black= 120v test both together with heater plugged in get 0V. Heater is 4 months old. Board is 10 years.
Turn power OFF. J11 - make sure it is ON. (jump it across both pins). Change the dipswitch. #10 to OFF. Take white jumper wire off (J28 and J57). hope you did that before turning. lol. Make sure to read the instructions on the back of the door of the pack.
@VIPPoolsandSpas yes I did all of that before turning it on as per their manual. 0 amp on both wires at heater. The heat must be what the pump is making.
@@VIPPoolsandSpasvoltage coming in is 246. Same at gfci. White output to heater is 1.5 black output is 123. Amp draw on both is 0 when heater is plugged in
@@heathermercer8528 test the heater element and the amps. When the display shows around 85, up or down it's from the motor heat and not the heater element.
HI again, I have got my balboa circuit board back from the repairers. It warms only to 29 degrees even if I have it set for 38 degrees. All relays have been changed. When I lowered the heat to 26,I see the temp light goes off. And I hear a small click. Then I put it back to 38 and get a small click. The heat then flashes, but it is not going over 29 ? The fuses look fine, but the big main one is not glass, so would need to check that one. I checked the AC current on the element, with it all powered up, And it read nothing. is this strange or what? The element is warmish to touch not hot to burn yourself. I need to switch it off now to check, the ohms. just checked the ohms, around 18,9-19? What does this mean if it is not around 11 or 12? I don't know where the problem is, any ideas?
Hey ive got one for ya, no codes, no restrictions in the system, pump working, new heating element, but no voltage at the heating element. Heating indicator light is on. I tested everything the way shown. Heating element is 10.5 oms. Not heating at all. New sensors as well, no air in system.
I have replaced the 5.5kw heater element and it’s still not heating. No codes. Pumps are both working. Checked the ohms of the old element and i read 11 ohms. Still no volts at the 2 leads of the new element. The board look ok and the voltage at the board is 120v and 240v.The model number is MXBP501X. Should i check the relay?
Could be one of the heater relays. Can take it apart and look behind the circuit board to see any burn marks. Thats if you cant see anything from the front. Also, when you when the power off and then back on can you hear any clicks from the spa pack?
@@VIPPoolsandSpas Thank you for the quick response and your knowledge, I was alone at home today so nobody to put the power back on to hear any relays clicks. I did remove the board and i didn't saw any clear evidence. What should i do from there? Here some pictures: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cJArsUkaisZmSFiO8enS1uGLfHn7kRwn?usp=sharing
A electronics guy or Cell Phone repair guy can test the board and maybe fix it for you. Just have to find someone in your area. It might be one of the relays with the white sticker on them.
Not heating with SNS code. I checked all the voltages and don't have the 240v across the heating elements. I do have 120v and 240v across the white, black and red etc. I have also taken the filter out and still have the same issue. Should I change the heating element? The heating element is from 2009 and I'm not sure how often things go. Any help would be appreciated. TY
@@VIPPoolsandSpas Pumps working good and I pulled the filter. I put the meter on the water heater and did not get 240volts. I ordered a new heater with sensors and will update you in a week. Thanks for the response.
I should add, checked all fuses as well, no shorts on back of board. Tired of wasting time with this and definitely don't want to spend $500 for a simple fix.
@@b2tl-gamingchannel319 don't know what issue you had before, what error codes if any and not sure the tests you have done. Follow the videos that may apply to your situation.
I have no power at the heating element. Everything else checks fine. It is still producing some heat and keeping the spa at 80°. Temp settings are correct on the control panel. I was thinking of replacing the heating element. What are your thoughts?
@@aaronjonke5704 the pump motor heats up to about 80 to 85. So I know when people say there heat is at around 80, it's the heat coming from the motor running
@@VIPPoolsandSpas OK I Replaced the heating element. I still have no electricity on top of the heating element. So now I am looking for some new ideas. All the fuses were working properly. Does this mean there is something wrong with a relay?
Hello there I have a vs300fl4 balboa system. I have done your ohm test and amp test. I get 15.2 ohms on the test and I get an audible click and unit draws 18.5 amps for a second then it goes back to just reading the amps on the pump. I do not have 240 volts across the post on the heater but I do have 120v to ground on each side. Red and black main feed 246 volts. Red to white 123 black to white 123
Any idea if a stuck relay could be responsible for an OHS code. Tub is very cool but reads 110. looked for flow problems, removed M7 temp sensors, still pauses with an OHS code. Older Down East Spa, MS2000 board
@@VIPPoolsandSpas EL2000 Mach2, I have pulled the sensors and restarted temp obviously doesn't show anymore but still cycles on and pff with an OHS code
@@spencercombs check all the wiring on the sensors and topside (gray in color). dirty filter or somehow clogged filter pipe. (remove filter first). water too low in tub maybe?
@@VIPPoolsandSpas Been there for a while, had this issue a year ago but resolved itself with several off/on's tapped on the relays, etc. wiring seems to be good, checked all of it, filter is clean, also ran it without filter to eliminate flow issues, purged lower pipes near pumps,
Whats the spa pack you have? Name of tub? Error code showing? If it's saying out of sync, it's the heat sensor and high limit not communicating with each other.
Hey. Love the video. Balboa VS500Z stopped heating. Board is 1.5yrs old. Could not find multimeter. Replaced heating element and relays. Did the relay bypass straight to heating tube. Still no heat. Found meter. Just watched this. I have 120v Neutral to Black, and 120v neutral to red. I have 0 volts between black and red! Is it the the power terminal block? Its the newer balboa style not old. (old board had that and burnt up) Thanks VIP!
Thank you for your video. I went to check my heater element and found the pump was out and had to replace the pump first. Now I am on to my heater element and am watching your video closely, but I have run into an issue that is not covered in the video. - I tested the Ohms and they are about 10.9 (I have a 5.5 kW element) - I tested the continuity and it is good with the same reading - I tested the voltage and it is 0, however I disconnected the J46 heater connector and tested voltage at the pins. - Pin voltage is 23.18 on the two outside pins and 123.8 from one outside pin to the center pin. Does that mean my connector is bad? It would seem that if the relay is bad that the voltage would be 0 on all pins; am i correct? Thank you for any help you can provide. Regards, Brian
What are the volts at J100 and J101 ? What is the volts coming into the spa pack (red and white) (black and white)? AND. Is pump 1 running/circ pump running?
Hello if you can help I would appreciate each time í plug back the connector into the switch the main terminal terns off in the house this connector his for the heater power what can it be thanks
@@VIPPoolsandSpas my beaker at home is always going down. I disconnected all the conectes in the pot and found the one . Can I send you a video and show you
Have a Balboa pack with the 240v at the element. Tried 3 new heaters thinking got defective heaters due to lack of packing still no heat. Heat light is on, on control panel. No pressure switch.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas Did not test amps due to it being late and night time. Would rather test that in daylight. No error codes. Temp is currently 74 and been at that for last 3-4 hours. Light is on solid
@@ricku4856 depends on the balboa spa pack you have. but there would be 2. one for the right lead going the the element and one going the the left. normally you would see them burnt or melted a bit. sometimes can only see it from the back of the board. Test the element for amps first.
I got a Brand New heating everything's working in it I got brand new Bible and I'm having trouble getting it to heat up the tub and I cannot figure out what it is help I need help
@@WilliamDaniel3-mh6on You bought a brand new spa pack? With a new topside or new one? What system (spa pack did you put in? Is the hot tub 240V or around that?
Have Balboa BP. Pumps work, no SL code currently. Couple weeks ago it turned off a couple times Bc it got too hot. 8 years old. No OHMS (O.L) between element leads. No voltage between element leads. 240v to unit. Tested power getting to unit and top side. Any ideas?
Change the heater element. See our video on testing volts and amps. Also, See any burnt or melted spots on the circuit board. Look at the right bottom of the transformer. That's the normal spot for the BP.
Another thing to check is.....have someone help you with this next step. Turn power off, hold the leads to the element to test volts. While holding the meter at the leads, have someone turn the power back on. Listen for the relay click and see if volts come thru the element. That same person that turned the power on comes to the tub and sets temp up to 104.... Because the BP will be going thru it's programming and needs to start the circ pump sooner, so your not sitting there for 5mins waiting to see if the volts go thru the element.
Have the same problem no heat. Light is on and calling for heat. Voltage is coming in to power our correct. Voltage to ground on each heater terminal separately is 120v. Voltage across both heater terminals is around 9v. Pull board and check for burns? Thanks.
hey if the element is ohms out but you're not getting 120v does that mean the boards bad? the screen keeps just blinking 104 and not going to any temperature. almost like a thermostat when it won't click. and then when i hold the jet button down and let go it will scroll through f1-f8 by itself. also, the light button on the control won't click on, but i can get the light to flash when i turn on the second dip switch.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas if i unplug the topside i will get 120 at the element is what your saying? and it is not cracked but i just pulled the board and as i was putting it back in a realized there is a small amount of blue corrosion in the plug for the topside on the board
@@VIPPoolsandSpas so i put the board back on the LED light started to blink but i couldnt get it to go through diffrent light mods. before i cleaned the corrosion off it wouldnt do that at all. then the control started to do what it did before. it wont stop scrolling up. so it will scroll the tempature back up to 104 when you turn it down. and it will scroll up through f1-f8. it seems to be stuck srolling up. there was small amount of blue corrotion where the topside plugs into the board.
No codes. Pumps are both working. I have a brand new heater that I just installed and it’s still not heating. The light comes on the top control panel like it’s calling for heat but still nothing. How do I check if the board might be the culprit?
Test volts first at the 2 leads of the element. If you get around 240v, then test the AMPS. 4kw element should be around 23amps. A 5.5kw element should be around 27amps. If no volts, dont bother testing amps. it would be the element. If no error codes come up and you have around 240v, test the element amps. Let me know how that goes. Get a meter with the "clamp" for testing amps. Set it to AC.
Update: When it first clicks and calls for heat the light blinks very quickly and then after a few minutes it will stop and be a solid light. The heater is brand new so I have a hard time believing that it is bad, but I guess it’s possible. I disconnected the leads to the heater, turned power on and had zero volts. Then both pumps kicked on and then I had 240v??? I turned power off, reconnected the leads and the same thing happened. Zero volts until both pumps kicked on and then I had 240. I’m thoroughly confused, haha.
@@robbrollinger2856 Pump One engages the heater element. If pump one doesn't come on or there's an issue, an error code will come up. The blinking is just programming and it's looking for problems before calling for heat.
@@robbrollinger2856 Remember. If you have volts at any time after the start up at the heater element and its not heating up test the amps to confirm if its a board or element issue. I'm still saying it's an element. But the only way to confirm is the amps test.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge here. I’ll need to see if my meter will test amps 🤷🏼♂️. I’ll keep checking. I didn’t find your videos until after I ordered and installed the new heater tube. I was kinda tails shot in the dark.
I have a Balboa VS100 that's been configured from 110 to 240. The spa comes on no error codes says it's heating indicator light but doesn't warm up. On the heater from ground to power it's 120 on one post black wire from ground power 120 on other white wire. When measuring white black together there's zero volts. Bad heater or bad circuit board? I'm lost...
If your testing the power coming into the spa pack......red/white at 120V....red/black at 240V and black/white at 120V. Was this pack just changed from 120V to 240V ? Was the breakers changed or moved at all?
Also watch video (not my video)....... Converting a Balboa VS100 FROM 110 v to 220v (Russ Washburn). Also make sure that your breaker is set in the breaker box the right way (2 phase). If you didn't do what the video says, you might of blown the spa pack.
Yes on the power coming into the spa pack there is 240 and 120 on the wires you mentioned. I haven't tested the breaker box it was wired in by a certified electrician so I assumed it was good.
@@otishills4757 If you can test the element itself, test the 2 leads and you should get 240V. If you get 240v, then turn power off and test ohms. See our video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gU-GgXnVeOU.html
I have a Balboa LPI501ST PN 56704 Had a new 2nd pump installed which works but the Expander board is faulty. The Heater is not working as prior to the 2nd pump replace. I checked all the fuses and the heater is not working. I replaced the heater and still not working. Power to unit is OK but no power is at the heater terminals. Am I destined for a new circuit board? any options to see if that is the case without totally taking the circuit board out?
Do these tests. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eu4sRppY4fU.html Or This one - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zoF2q0UEJx4.html We also have a new video coming out in 10mins. Its a MAAX Swimspa with a balboa BP spa pack with the connection and relay fried.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas Thx for your response. Its a Bullfrog a900 series. BFBM20 is the control box. I have power to the unit, pumps, all controls function, but testing the power to the heater, the two leads, showed nothing. No voltage. I think its the circuit board. Two other websites I went to concurred with that
It's a Balboa spa pack and has no pressure switch, so it sounds like the relay not turning on. If you know anyone that fixes computers....ask if they work on boards. I think it's just a relay. Look on the board for any melted spots.
