sir thank you very much easy to understand your video having a problem with my balboa change the heater and two sensors and have no heat any help would be great
@@VIPPoolsandSpas 240 and a 4 kw did not know how to test until i seen your video does have conntinutity on both post of heater and all fuses are good cold out right now and could use this will try to get a tester like yours today
I appreciate your videos. Where I live most of the spa guys have retired or moved away . Seems young people don't want to learn a trade nowadays so no one replaces them. The remaining spa repair places said they would only work on spas they sold.One was nice enough to hear my plea and suggest some things. My daughter asked if my granddaughters could use our spa. she promised shed keep an eye on them to keep them from dong things. Then she got a call from a potential boyfriend and left them to it. They put a bath bomb on and then took turns turning the spa on and off a lot to bug each other. So then next time I go out there its full of slimy stuff. It turned on and off over and over.Like maybe the switch from them pushing it on and off so much. I cleaned to out and drained it and rinsed it . I flushed it the best I could. I replaced the control pad up top. Worked great for 2 months then the board fried where the power wires attach to it.I am a electronic/electrical tech for automobiles. But not spas. Im gonna buy a new Balboa board but Im afraid of why it heated the wires up so much. This a 110 spa. It has a breaker at the plug.It didn't pop that or the house panel breaker. Boards aint cheap so I was wondering if you could give me some advice on this. The board has a supersede number and the new ones are available. I can do the testing easily that you suggested. Im gonna look into the heater element to see if its coated when I pull it to swap the board. I think I'm gonna try to flush the pump out too, while Im at it, just to see if its still sludge in there. when I found it dead the water was still pretty hot so Im betting the heater is still good. Any other ideas I should look for?
Most likely it burnt out because of the filter getting clogged and was putting a strain on the pump. Not much I can suggest. Maybe change the gfci on the cord after a few years and cleaning the filter more often. Flushing it out once is all you need.
My spa is balboa vs running at 120 volt plug and play. I can’t get it to heat. I installed new pump and heater with sensors. Voltage is good on the heater but my amp draw is only 1.5 amps during heating. Shouldn’t it be a lot more like around 10-12? If so do you think it’s a board issue? If you can help that be great. Your videos are very informative
Does the tub have a cord with a GFCI on the end of it? Whats the volts coming into the tub? If you have 120volts and no or low amps, that sounds like a element issue.
Great video. Easy to understand. I have a small hot tub with 4kw heater element and was experiencing intermittent breaker tripping. Did find a small leak in the Ozonator and replaced that unit. Still get a tripped breaker intermittently, might run for several days or weeks. Tested as the video shows, 240 volts were in from the breaker, and 120 V was on each side. Volts at the heater element were 236, not 240. Ohms at heater 14.9, Amps 16.5 on one side 16.2 on the other side (clamp meter) Continuity tested good. Any suggestions as to what could cause intermittent breaker tripping?
When a hot tub trips at random it's hard to pin point the problem. How long has the tub run before it trips. And what's the fastest it has tripped after you reset it?
@@VIPPoolsandSpas On June 15 replaced the Ozonator refilled and restarted. Tripped out June 23, again on July 7, I didn't reset until July 30 it tripped out on Aug 5, reset on Aug 13, and tripped out on Aug 20. I am in a rural area and we do get brownouts and sometimes full loss of power we have generator backup and I have noticed that when power goes out and the generator kicks in the hot tub trips out. I have a wifi temp sensor so I can see when temp drops off.
Thanks for your great videos! We have an old spa with a gecko pack we test for continuity and meter beeps but when we test it live we don’t have any volts reading on the element probes. What to do next? We have a 3 dot code (flow) we have changed the flow pressure switch, the temp sensor in the tub, replaced the filter, purge for air. Pump doesn’t turn on when we flip the breaker but when it suppose to filter it runs for about 10 seconds and stops. Any other things to check for?
Hi Jim great video .. Question I have is the tub is running and jets and pumps and filtration cycle also turns on. When I turn up the temp does not turn on heat ! Could be anything else . Could dirty filter ?
I’ve got a MS1600JP model. I’m not getting voltage on one leg going to heating element. Getting 120 on left side, right side nothing. What’s your recommendation? Thanks
Hello - I have a Hot Tub that when the heater kicks in a clicks it blows the GFI breaker, could that be the elemenrt or anyway that I can track that down ? Thanks Jim
Having heating issues Thanks for the tips changed the heating element keeps coming back with a dry and hhc clyes then doesn't run unless its reset is it the logic bd , also the heat when it is heating is flashing and also changed the pump out as it was frozen solid heats slightly then turns odd to dry also notice no water coming from water fall spout any suggestions ?
Really appreciate this video! I'm wondering if there is any reason why you would have to change the heater tube as well as the element? I tested volts and amps on my 5.5kw element, both were 0 so I'm planning to change out just the element. Wondering when I'd need to consider changing the heater tube as well. Thanks!
The only time you change the heat tube is when the ends get corroded. Whenever there's leaks coming from the end gaskets or even the element, there's a chance that it crowds the tube and creates little tiny holes.
A quick follow-up - I first noticed this issue with the heat after a brief power outage. I can see there's a fuse on the heater itself. Is it possible that a blown fuse would cause this problem?
Hi again. I replaced the element but it seems that isn't the problem. I tried testing the voltage to the heater but I'm not getting any. I noticed a comment above mentioning a bad relay might be the problem. Is that the piece on the pack that has the two leads going to the heater?
Hi! Thanks so much for the informative videos. Quick one for you - my spa turns on and heats up great but it goes too well and won’t turn the pump/heater off when it gets to the right temp and just goes too hot. Any ideas where to start? I haven’t tested anything just yet but I do have a decent multimeter. Thanks again
I did everything you did basically I’m not getting 240 between the two heating elements so when I undo the plug from the circuit board, I’m not getting 240 from there. I’m only getting 120 from one side from the other side so basically the heat is only getting 120. Does that mean the boards bad or is there something that could be changed?
My hot tub is doing the same thing. I had to disconnect from heater to test or the breaker would trip. The one leg is getting 120VAC and the other leg is getting around 25VAC. Pretty sure a relay is bad on the board for the 25VAC leg. Was this what you’ve found as well?
Hello! Your videos are Great! I have a balboa 2007 spa that I can’t get anyone out to look at. It is running but not heating. So I changed the heating element and sensors. (Before I found your videos) the heater is brand new. It has a pressure switch on top. I just tried checking with a Electric meter and there is power coming in. But nothing on the heating element probes. Is there a fuse somewhere besides the glass one that needs to be reset?? thank you for any help! Paula
I have been working on a dream maker hot tub with a balboa circuit board in it. It's a 120 volt cord connected tub. After about 30 minutes it trips the GFCI cord end. Also, the tub is not reaching temp so my theory is when the circuit board sends a signal to the heater it trips. Heater is reading 14 ohms. Any suggestions would be helpful.
My spa is tripping the power. When i unplug the heater. The spa works as normal. When i plug heater connections back in the power keeps tripping. I have ohms and have continuity. Dimensions one spa. Pretty sure its the heater element. I was going to try amps but was thinking it may just trip the power. Any help appreciated thanks.
Hi, changed my Balboa gl2000 3kw heater element as it wasn't heating with a universal Chinese element, it worked for 2 weeks but blew the fuse. I changed the fuse but still won't heat, circ pump wasn't working properly so I cleaned out all the debris but still doesn't heat. Ohm's and continuity is good but no volts or amps to the heater. I even replaced 3 relays but still no heat. Do you think I have to replace the element again or could it be something else.
Please help ! I have a strongspa wirh Balboa VS501Z board. The circuit board has fried for the second time! The first technician simply replaced the circuit board and left two years ago. However, upon closer inspection this time, I noticed that the wiring to the hot tub is done with aluminum. So, I hired an electrician and opted for cheap and low AWG aluminum wiring. We then decided to change the entire wiring to copper, along with new breakers. However, the breaker started tripping with the new board. We conducted a test with the heater disconnected, and the hot tub started fine. We also replaced the heating element with a brand new one. Now, the hot tub starts for a few minutes, but then the circuit relay begins clicking and the jets intermittently work and eventually stop :( The pump was already changed last year. So brand new circuit board with brand new wiring with brand new heating element and one year old pump. I am really running out of ideas here ..
Assuming the pump thats pushing the water thru the heat tube is running, it would most likely be a relay. You can test by having one tester lead on the white coming into the pack and the other on one of the heater leads. There's 2 relays for the element. One might be gone. I don;t have a video on this test.
What if i have a 240 system and have 240 coming in but only 120 at the element? I thought it was the element because one side got hot and melted so i replaced the whole set up. I did reuse the old wires because i have the clip in style not the bolt on kind of connection.
Its the relay. There's 2 relays for the heater and one isn't working. Replace the wires also. I have a video on how to test the relay and if you want, a video on replacing it.
Checked all test on my Dreammaker Big EZ with a Balboa heater everything looks good to go but I’m still getting no heat at all,when I turn the tub on I hear the click when the sensor detects under temp the indicator light flashes then 30 seconds later click again to a solid light my spa guy said solid light heater is on and heating… clearly not lol Same thing happened about 8 months ago same tub, bought a new heater tube with sensors everything worked good after changing, when it happened again today I went in to buy another one to change it again and brought the one I took out last time, he tested it and said I don’t need to buy a new one that one is still good and just put it back in and if that don’t work change the board… not sure what my question is but my tubs getting real cold 🥶 and freezing her in New Brunswick Canada Should I drain, swap it back in, fill and cross my fingers? Just get the new board now so have to drain? I’m not sure what I should do 🙃
Did you test the heater element? Whats the volts? Are you running 240v or 120v? The click you hear most likely is the relay for the heater. Could be a resistor issue on the board. I'm assuming there's no error codes coming up on the topside?
@@VIPPoolsandSpas yeah no error code and 240v, I also took the heater tube that I was told was working and connected the two probes from it to see if it was the probes the new temp read 32 ( the outside temp) and it said ICe error waited to see if that would work went through the clicks light went solid hour later still no heat, right now I’m sitting on a 52 degree tub probes reconnected
@@MBZ_420 If you test the element and are getting 240v when the heat light comes on, the board is working fine. If it's 0, change the relay or board. If you get 240v and no heat, it's the element.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas I appreciate all of your quick responses!! I know not proper I’m sure but could I hook up the other heat tube probes and power and let it kick in dry just for a quick second to see if I get heat I could just check quick with my IR gun then turn off the breaker right away? lol maybe that’s dumb I don’t know lol
I have a head scratcher for you. I have a 20 yr old Hydrospa Millennium model. I had no heat. I had 120v to ground to each terminal on element. No 240v across both. The 4k ohm element checks out fine. I changed the filter and it worked for a few weeks. I changed the water and heat stopped again. Same symptoms came back. I jumped out the pressure switch and the heat worked. So I changed the the pressure switch to the newer #3902 switch. Still not working. I'm a licensed Electrician and I am stumped. Any idea's? Thanks
BTW. I changed out the board after the first problem with the heat a few weeks ago. I noticed one of the copper tabs that connected the element to the board were burned at the board. I replaced the element a few years ago. I torqued the nuts at the element but I guess they loosened at the board side. I replaced the tabs with wire jumpers as recommended.
Would have to know what spa pack you have in the hot tub. The words "spa pack" are sometimes used by electricians to describe the "breaker box", but hot tub techs call a spa pack the controls used under a hot tub. Take a picture and send to info@vippools.ca
@@VIPPoolsandSpas The spa pack is a Balboa HS200. The board is #52498-1. Right now, the spa seems be working fine and like it has always worked, other than no heat. It has {2} 2 speed 240 volt pumps plus {1} 115 volt circulating pump. All pumps are "working". I have 120v to ground on each terminal of the element, but 0 volts across both terms. When I temporarily jumped out the pressure switch, the heat came on and I got 240v across both terminals. Also, when I removed the filter, it did not correct the problem.
My spa is heating, but very slowly. It takes 2 to 3 hours to come up one degree and 3 days to come up to 104. What can I check to see what may be happening?
@@VIPPoolsandSpas It's a Bullfrog Spa 240V with a Gecko controller/heater. City water and shell is smooth. I test 240V on the line coming in but can't get a 240 V reading on the heater element connections. There are 3 leads going into the heater tube but the two main and I can't get any combination to read 240V
Whats the temp now and what is it set for? Any lights on the circuit board? Take a pic of the circuit board (whole pack) and the diagram behind the door and send it to info@vippools.ca
For now. turn power off, unplug both the temp sensor and high limit from the circuit board and then plug back in fully. then turn power back on. retest element. Remember, if the tub is at 104 now, the heater will show 0volts. you need it calling for heat to test the element. full the filter(s) also
I fixed mine about 15 time's! And the hottub store themselfs told me to skip this part and sure enough it was always the same parts, heater, maybe a fuse and at worse a pressure switch and that's usually it
If the hot tub is set to 104 and the read out slowly climbs and ends at 104, but the water temp is not close to that temp. Is this a sensor issue. It's a BALBOA heater 4.0K 800 15in 2x2 M7 S
