My GooLoo like that will start a totally dead Battery. My AvPow will not. I have the old GooLoo without the screen. It will not start a totally dead battery either. I'll stick with the New style GooLoo with the screen.
We all know these portable jump starters are not putting out the amperage they advertise anyway. I just mention in my videos their spec amperage they are advertising, even if people say the 4000A or 6000A peak is for a split second. I have done and seen many videos when these jump starters are load tested and most of these units' amps are nowhere near what they advertise. I appreciate the comment.
Most of the bigger jump packs are just 4 lithium ion cells in series, so most of them are fully charged at 16.8v. From other videos I've seen, the best jump packs can output 500 to 600 amps at between 9v and 11v for 3-5 seconds. You are always gonna have a large voltage drop when you are pulling 600 amps out of a 20-30Ah battery pack. If you wanted to build a better version of these jump packs, you could just use the 14.4v nominal graphene 100c lithium polymer battery packs meant for extreme drone flights. If you put 4 of those extreme C rate drone batteries in parallel, you could Definitely build a killer jump pack. It would actually be completely possible to just build a jump pack out of Molicel P42A 21700 cells. 10 in parallel and 4 in series makes a 4s10p pack that can output 450 amps minimum for at least 10 seconds. The only hard part would be linking all the balance cables together and finding a bms that will allow you to output over 500 amps for 10 seconds. Getting lithium cells that can output lots of power isn't a problem. The problem is getting the right bms with the right abilities and protections and the right charging limits for whatever you build. Its certainly not impossible to design a better product than these companies currently make, but finding the right bms for the job might be a pain in the butt.
What a crap review, as soon as that gooloo started the car the car was no longer in exactly the same state as before, as for that tester its a joke. Use a proper test meter or disconect the battery totally, at least that would be a consistent test for each jump pack
Just remember there is always more than one way to test a battery for voltage, just because you see a different way than your use to seeing, doesn't mean it the wrong method. The test light with the digital voltage readout shows the ballpark voltage of your battery. The multimeter is the same concept as the digital voltage test light. Out of 5.6 thousand viewers on this exact video, YOU are the only one to make a negative comment like that saying it's a crap review and that the tester is a joke. Again, just because you see a different testing method, doesn't mean it's wrong, or not affective. We have used that test light with digital voltage readout as a tester in many videos and it seems to work great. At our channel we use test lights, multimeters, disconnect the battery, load testers, ETC, to determine the voltage of the battery, so we are well aware of how to test batteries. The whole point of this exact video was to see if the cable wires get hot or not after jump starting, that's why the video was called Hot Wires. I understand everyone is entitled to their opinion, but if you have an issue with the way something is being done in any of our videos, please ask us why we do it that way and we will gladly explain. There is no need to be negative, we try our best at H & M Reviews Channel to show how-to videos for entertainment only, these videos take us a while to make an edit. Have a great day.
Your tester didn't work correctly even with the engine running due to poor connection, but you continued to say the battery was totaly flat Once the enngin had started that would put a charge back into the battery, but due to the lack of a decent connection with your tester you kept showing a totaly discharged battery, if you had cleaned all the connection properly then the results would have been totaly different The chances are that your car wouldn't start was most likely due to corrosion on your battery terminals and that why your tester didn't work half the time, so your testing technique was totaly untrustworthy, even to the point you made assumptions that some of the jumper backs couldn't detect reverse polarity, just think about the damage you could do to companies if people see your comparisons and the test was not done fairly Have a very nice day, by the way I am a motor engineer with 40 years experience
@neknadroj1 That battery has been tested on and off camera for months as many of my videos will show, that battery had 2.3 volts in it, so to most people, that's completely dead. The Avapow 6000 1st generation has NO boost button, which was why it had such a hard time starting that vehicle. The newer Avapow 6000A have a boost, but not ours. We do not ridicule any jump starters unless it doesn't work properly or what they claim, and being a mechanic for 40 years you know that All these portable jump starters are not putting out the peak amperage they claim, not even for a second. So, as many of my other videos will show, the Avapow 6000A with no boost button has issues jump starting batteries with under around 7-9 volts. Nowhere in any of my videos am I hurting any companies' reputation by showing exactly what their product does or doesn't do, my other videos will show as well. That's why in my videos, you will hear me say, "It may be a bad connection, or maybe it's something we are doing wrong, even though we follow directions to a tee." Alot of other RU-vidrs have similar videos showing how some of these jump starters are just not ideal with certain vehicles. I am in no way saying things that aren't true, I just relay what is happening, or not happening. The truest test is to put the actual jump starter to the test by hooking it up and seeing if it works. That was one of our earlier videos. I am not a mechanic, nor do I claim to be. I just do a lot of research, watch a lot of mechanic videos, and read manuals to a tee to make sure I do things correctly. Also, I have found from experience that if your battery is just about completely dead, and you jump start your car, you won't put a charge on the battery after the car running for a minute or two, especially with batteries with 2 or 3 volts in it. My latest videos will show my Cadillac V8 with 1.1 volts, will take a jump start, then after running for one minute I shut it off, I then try to start the car and the car still has single digit voltage and completely dead. the caddy will keep taking a jump start, but the second I shut the car off and try to start it without a jump starter, the car is dead. I suppose every car is different and certain jump starters may not work correctly on certain vehicles, as many mechanics have told me anyway. Also, the connections were cleaned and not corroded as far as I could see. I have also noticed that a lot of these portable jump starters are very wonky and act funny from time to time when it comes to reverse polarity or preheat technology, ETC, it depends on connections, vehicle, battery layout, I'm told. And i kept making sure the connections were good because i kept going back and forth trying on and off camera to make sure the connection was tight. But i know for a fact some of these jump starters should not be on the market, as many other videos out there will show. I respect you being a mechanic for 40 years, keep up the good work.
@@neknadroj1 If you have any pointers or tips you could share, please let me know, I would love to hear from a veteran mechanic. Thanks for the comment
@HMReviewsChannel Yes, the reason I said use a proper test meter is that test light doesn't work correctly at anything below 3 volts if you don't believe me check the specifications, I have already said clean the battery terminals and the conectors Lead acid don't like sitting in a discharged state so if the battery is low take it off the car and charg the battery then leave it off the car if you are not going to use it, you should still need to top the charge up about every 3 months, once the battery is flat and left in that state it goes down hill fast and you end up with a battery that wont hold a charge at all But if you are going to test jump start packs, do it with no battery connected that way each battery pack will have exactly the same challenge Some battery packs say not to do it with no battery in the vehicle, but once the car starts it will put power into even a faulty battery so anything tested after that doesn't have the same amount of work to do, also remember voltage is not a measure of ability to start the vehicle, its the power the battery can deliver under load, that's why a proper battery tester has a large load resistor to load the battery for correct ability to crank over the engine, also look out for capacitor jump start packs, they need a battery with power left in it as they charge from the car battery before it delivers that charge back to the vehicle when the demand is there from the starter
