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Just for your Information: in your video you did not activate the Boost by simply clicking it. According to the user manual you have to click the Boost Button for 3 seconds, then the Boost functionality is enabled.
In my experience with my unit, you only have to push the boost on my unit about a second or 2, even though it says 3 seconds in the manaul. Obviously, by me pushing the Boost button for that one second or 2 activated the Boost, because the unit was able to jump start that battery with leas then 7 volts. The unit wouldn't have been able to jump start a battery that low without pushing the Boost. I appreciate the comment. Have a great day
To be fair to Noco, Noco offers a great product, but my Noco GB70 has been hit or miss on my 2004 Cadillac Deville V8 for some reason. My Noco GB70 jump starts every other vehicle in my fleet, but the Caddy is hit or miss. Do you have a Noco? If so, what kind do you have, and what issues are you having?
@@HM_RELOADED Based on good experience with Fanttik tire inflators and other reviews of the T8, I ordered a Fanttik T8 Apex last week. You definitely gave the NOCO a fair shot. It's just not up to the job for a Caddy.
@softwarephil1709 I still struggle with the Noco GB70 only on my Cadillac V8 with Northstar to this day. The Noco GB70 works on most other vehicles in my fleet, but there are a few times when the Noco GB70 has issues, like most products, to be fair. Everyone has different experiences with the exact same products for whatever reason. Example: 20 people, all with a Noco GB70, may have 20 different experiences depending on user error, defective unit, certain cars not accepting a jump start, ETC. I am here to show exactly how to use certain products and show you the experience I have. The Fanttik products are great products as well. We have a few different Fanttik videos on Fanttik T8 Apex, Fanttik Max, and Fanttik tire inflator. They all work very well and are heavy duty. I appreciate you watching our videos. We will have a live stream coming up within the week. We will be giving things away like an Amazon gift card , portable jump starters, and possibly tire inflators as well. Depends on how generous I feel that day. Lol
Thanks very much! Followed your step by step on my 2017 Santa Fe sport and everything work out just fine. Would not have even tried without you. Thanks again.
@@HM_RELOADED It helped a bit, but I think there's other issues beyond just the squeak. The rubber stoppers are also missing, might have to lube up all the sliding joints on the sliding doors
Not really true. If you have a frozen unit, it will take a little more than 100 seconds for the unit to heat up and work on its own (with No preheat technology). Many people don't realize, but when these units are frozen from low temps, so are the internal parts of the unit frozen as well. Just by waiting 100 seconds will Not remedy the issue, you would have to wait a good 15 minutes for most units without preheat technology to work as they should. But keep in mind, when you are stuck on the side of the road in the cold weather, the last thing you would want to do is wait for your portable jump starter to heat up, because you don't have preheat technology. And we have tested frozen jump starters without preheat technology to see how long they would take to come out of their frozen state and operate as they should, which is how we know. Most of the cheaper units either took way more than 15 minutes to operate, or some cheaper units didn't even function for hours. And just about all the better units took between 10-20 minutes to fully operate without preheat technology. Preheat technology is a great option in places with very frigid weather. This way, you won't have to wait a lot of time to jump start and go. If you are trying to jump start your vehicle in sub zero temps, obviously, you won't have any heat in your vehicle to assist your frozen jump starter without preheat technology, that's where preheat technology comes in. We appreciate your comment
What I think. First, you have not yet completed the repair on the oil pan. As is, it's gonna leak. I believe as you use this device to do actual repairs. You may change your opinion. After you cut the pins off and grind them down, you are gonna need to melt some plastic down that crack, probably on both inside and outside. You may find it easier to do with the pins further apart. I believe that it depends on the project just which way you want to put the staples and also the thickness of the plastic. On some projects I would put the staples cross ways with space between so that i can staple from the other side also. Each project and how you are gonna want the completed project to look when you are finished will dictate how the best way to staple it is. Wouldn't mind seeing more videos as you use the tool more.
Sorry didn't work for me! The squeak was driving us crazy. Some people suggested the clips for the panel needed to be replaced, nope, tried that! Tried spraying silicone on the gasket, worked briefly but back to squeaking. Why it worked I have no idea, tried the suggestion in this video, did not work. Took the panel off the door, drove with the panel removed and it continued to squeak, so nothing to do with the door panel. In our situation it seemed like there was no solution. Went to our body shop we used, asked them if the door could be pulled tighter to see if that would that would help. They took it for a test drive, checked over everything related to the door. In my attempt to find a solution I discovered that many vans have this issue and people are going crazy trying to find a solution! HERE WAS OUR SOLUTION. It was immediate and have never heard a squeak, not even a tiny squeak! Apparently the door was starting to sag a bit and the door was rubbing on the latch on the post. You could see the metal was polished from the door rubbing on the latch. The body shop lowered the latch and instantly no more squeaking, none, nothing, zero! No grease and it's permanent! Look at the post that the door slides up to. There is a 1/4" diameter, aluminum rod that the door latches on to. The latch in question can be seen in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T1_cAX2zmiI.html on the right, lower side of this video at 13:03. Hope this works for you!
Buyer Beware! Piece of junk. No customer support, Fanttik customer service (or lack of) will NOT be there for you to fix, repair or exchange a new defective unit. Wish I knew before purchasing.
I guess we have one of the better built units since we have had 0 issues with ours. We have used it many times on the channel and in the field, and our Fanttik has never let us down. Hopefully, that continues. I'm sorry you are having such issues with your unit and customer service. Hopefully, they fix their issue you're having. Unfortunately, some products work great one day, yet the same exact product doesnt work so good other days. Everyone has different experiences with the same products. Some units are defective, and sometimes, it is user error, not saying you did anything wrong. What is the issue with your unit, maybe I could help.
@@HM_RELOADED , Opened the box, read User Manual. Connected the T8 to charger. Began charging on 23JUN24 at around 1:30PM from 85%. 26 hours later, it is at 88%. If it takes a full day to charge 3%, I rather purchase something else. I cannot afford to spend days charging a defective/substandard device that may or may not work at the end of the day. The only fix is a replacement.. I appreciate your interest, but now l have no confidence in Fanttik. I have decades of experience with these devices. I know when one is superb, or substandard in quality and/or manufacturing.
very very very good!!! at first: it is very important, that the electrical circuit always is closed and opened with BLACK minus-cable!! (= so RED always stays longer at car) often shown wrong but not here: from H & M always shown perfekt Job! thanks! otherways you can damage your expensive engine control unit ore some else electronic! second I was looking for a video like this (comparison of Noco and Lokithor...). very helpful. all the best
Warning: never open or close the electrical circuit with plus/red!! always with black (= red must always be there longer). As shown here (five times wrong: especially with the black Hyundai even with the device on), a large electric shock goes through the entire car electronics and in the worst case can destroy the engine control unit ($1,500 to $4,000 installed and programmed) or one of the many other control units. If you do it right, the electric shock mainly goes through the battery and is slowed down by it. ALWAYS pay attention to this, or also when jump-starting from car to car! Otherwise there could even be two cars that are damaged. If you don't want expensive trouble, pay attention to this; and once red and black are connected, never touch the red one again until the black one is off again. =that means: if you think that the contact at red is not good, !FIRST! remove the black again to wiggle/correct the red contact. than close again el.circuit with black, etc. (with black you can wiggle it and if there are sparks in black side, it's not so bad for the electronics) good luck.
Many people don't realize that most of these portable jump starters have Smart clamps and smart protections to avoid such incidents from happening. With these portable jump starters with smart protections like the jump starter shown in this video, it wouldn't matter if the red or black cable is hooked up first since nothing would happen because of the smart clamps and smart protections on these portable jump starters. The cheaper portable jump starters do not have smart functions unless it says in the specs. Now the old style jumper cables that you need two cars for do NOT have smart functions, as a result you would need to do what you said. Basically, these portable jump starters are goof proof, unless the Boost button is activated, only then are the smart functions disabled and you would have to do what you said. We appreciate the comment
Longer cables = RESISTENCE/impedance = less power at the battery. This is one of the reasons these packs work so much better than jumper cables. VOLTAGE DROP is a very real thing. Longer cables may be conveinent but they cripple the ability of the jumpbox
You are absolutely correct, but being these portable jump starters claim to have 4000--6000A (Peak), the longer cables are still going to be able to jump start with very little issue. We all know these jump starters are not producing the amperage they say, but they are putting out quite a bit. We have countless videos showing the longer homemade 3 foot cables jump starting V8 engines on the first shot with no issues. I could almost guarantee if these portable jump starters were putting out around 2000A or less, the longer cables would probably not work half the time because of the resistance drop (less power), as you said. But being these jump starters put out 4000--6000A, there shouldn't be any issues with the longer cables, as we have experienced so far. But you are absolutely correct with longer cables delivering less power. Thanks for the comment
From 4:35-4:45 we show the plug and the USB C wire, and tell you to plug the plug in the wall, and put the USB C wire in the USB C port on the unit. W It seems when we edited the video, we edited out when we said "This is how you charge it". But you will see exactly how at 4:35-4:45. I appreciate your comment
It amazes me how many people don't know how to properly use the avapow 6000a sir there is a small red button on the top of the cable module hold that button for 3 sec and it will force jump pack into boost mode you on have 30 sec start motor before it disengaged thx and your welcome
Please do homework before making comments. It amazes me how many people don't realize that when the Avapow 6000A first came out a few years back, they did NOT offer a red Boost button on the side of the module. The newer generation, Avapow 6000A, now has a red Boost button. We obviously had the older generation Avapow 6000A that did NOT have a red boost button, or we would have used it. Thanks, and you're welcome. Wasn't trying to be rude, just giving you the same treatment you gave us. Thanks for the comment
Same issue with the same fridge. It's insane that they let these out of the factory in this condition. The door has actually damaged my drywall and paint because they swing open so wide
It's very unfortunate that your Hulkman didn't last too long. Luckily, our Hulkman unites have worked perfectly since the day we got them, hopefully they continue to work well. It's a shame that Hulkman didn't help you out in reference to your Hulkman unit. Good luck with which ever unit you decide to purchase. Thanks for the comment
The Gooloo GT4000 uses the EC5 connector to attach the cables to the unit. The EC5 connector is used for high current usage. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment
Hello , UNFORTUNATELY!!!! THIS is not EC-5 connector. Take the cables to your hands , look the male connector ..the + is square let's say 5x5 mm and - is half-square.. and google to datasheet for EC-5 connector male - YOU WILL IMMEDIATELY see the difference. 😢😢😢
@kolka10100 Which connector does the Gooloo GT4000 have then. When we Google EC5 connector, all the pictures look identical to what the Gooloo GT4000 has, that's the reader we thought it was EC5 connector. Please let us know exactly which connector the Gooloo GT4000 has so we know for the future. Thanks for the comment
I'll try to get radioshook day after tomorrow, maybe next week get the ec-5 female connector and will try to connect to gooloo gt4000. Let's see if this going to sit .. So far happy with device as well able to get up to 55w for usbac-to-usbc for laptop charge and same time usba to usbc to phone charge ...
Mine is more like a loud rattle. It's a company van but I'm about to drive it to the country and walk back and say I don't know what happened to it. And the service people are about as dumb as 2 pebbles. They are supposed to know where every screw is and how tight to tighten it. That's why they are certified and cost a fortune.
Sounds like the plastic trim may have loosened off the plastic clips. Try going to the area of the rattle, and check to see if any plastic panels are loose. If it's not the plastic panels causing the rattle, just ditch the van somewhere like you said. Lol. Only kidding. Also, check for objects possibly caught in certain areas. The rolling around of an object may be causing the rattle. Also, check to see if the rattle is constant or if it rattles only when you make a left or a right. Knowing where and how a noise is happening may point you in the correct location of figuring out the rattle. Noises can be so frustrating because you don't know where they are coming from half the time.
I bought this jump starter a year ago and it stopped turning on about 3-4 months ago. I reached out to the company with no response. It just doesn’t turn on. I think it might have to do with me charging the jump starter and inadvertently leaving it in charging mode for over a day or so? The starter lights up when I plug it in but doesn’t turn on when not charging. Is there anyway to reset the starter ? Thanks
I can't seem to find out if the Lokithor has some kind of hard reset or restore to factory settings function. I will keep doing research, but so far, I can't find any info about it. I will check to see if anything could be done internally. Gimme a little bit of time, I will do some research for you. Does the Lokithor turn on when the unit is being charged?
It might help if you rewatch the video, because if you looked very closely to our video, you would indeed see that all the units tested in this video, were connected to the battery with a great connection. Please answer me a question, if all 3 units were hooked up the exact same way, why did the Hulkman and Fanttik have absolutely zero issues jump starting, and the Noco which was hooked up the exact way was struggling to jump start? Keep in mind I love my Noco, but for some reason it struggles to jump start only my Cadillac V8, as shown in the video. The Noco works on every other vehicle I have tried it on. If you watch our countless Noco GB70 videos, you will clearly see that the unit struggles with our 2004 Cadillac V8 with Northstar for whatever reason. Whether you believe it or not, the Noco was hooked up correctly 😭 Thanks for the comment
NOCO 12.2v is less than 50% charge..No wonder it doesn't doesn't start. 12.89v is a fully charged 12v battery. At 12.2v the NOCO Lithium battery is simulating a dead Lead Acid battery.
Every vehicle has a different location where the fuse compartment is located. The short answer is to check your vehicles owners manual to find out the fuse location. Usually, you will find a small fuse compartment under the steering wheel to the left or to the right, depending on what kind of vehicle you have. There should be a fuse diagram on the cover of the fuse compartment telling you which fuses are which. If your fuse compartment does not show you any information, you will need to check your vehicle owners' manual for further assistance. Let me know if you figured it out. Have a great day
Grand Voyager V5 246k+ in the UK and been driving me nuts over the last few months. Avoid taking anyone out in it because of the squeak but you just saved me from dismantling the door. A quick spray and all quiet. Will look for a little coper grease as I have that at home for a long term fix but thank you for the video, really helped me out.
