House wiring for high end audio 

Absolutely beautiful. Audiophile wiring for the home from pillar to post. Thank god the plumbers aren’t involved.

This is EXACTLY the kind of information I'm looking for right now. Thanks so much for sharing it.

In the UK we have rings, so the start of the circuit connects to the end. This effectively doubles the current capacity. With 2.5mm conductors we have approx 48amps per circuit. Usually thats protected by a 32amp fuse. Bearing in mind all our appliances are fused in the plug themselves by a maximum of 13amps. Most (and all new) houses have a main RCD too.

Breakers protect wiring, NOT equipment. The NEC code matches wiring gauge to current ratings per foot and per temperature ratings of the in wall cables. Running a larger gauge wire (lower AWG number) in wall is fine as long as the breaker, AWG, and outlet ratings are matched. Remember, you may sell the house, the next owner may not have any idea of what's inside the walls. The NEC code is there to protect the structure and occupants.

Hi Paul ... I star earthed every socket in my studio to wonderful affect. I also use shielded 20Amp runs in the walls.

Very helpful for me just in time. Thanks and Hello from Germany.

On a dedicated circuit you can always install a smaller interruption device than what the conductor is rated for, but not the other way round. If you run a dedicated circuit, you will end up also with a dedicated unbroken ground connection as well. Even better though would be to just run a 220v sub-panel to your entertainment room on say a 50A breaker that could be installed in your equipment closet. This would be run from the service entrance of your home with #6 ga wire and bring basically the entire power panel and earth ground connection to your space on a single point. From there you could do a couple of things. A: install a whole panel surge protector in that sub panel to protect all your gear from surge and spike damage and provide EMI filtration. B: run short length dedicated circuits to all the outlets within the room that you intend to use for audio placing them all on one phase of the disconnect and providing them with a single point ground back to the service entrance. Placing all other accessory outlets and lighting loads on shared circuits located on the other phase of the disconnect. This way you know all your gear it’s on the same electrical phase of your panel as well as having the same exact ground reference. This allows you to be able to have a nice heavy gauge cable that runs all the way across your house to wherever it needs to go that’s on a nice heavy breaker that won’t trip unless it needs to to protect that cable… Then in your in room sub panel, you can put small 15 amp breaker’s for each circuit if that’s what you want and run 10 gauge wire to each outlet if that’s what you desire. And everything can be the same length if you want to do that and it will be easy to accomplish and easy to balance. And in fact you will have one single run back to the panel at the other end of the house and that one single ground will all be the same length because it’s only one and not a whole bunch of them. That’s the beauty of single point grounding.

couple comments here.. it is a violation of NEC to attach a 20A receptical to a 30A circuit your commercial building uses "building wire" THHN, not romex in the conduits, as installing romex in Conduit is a violation also

Has anyone considered using BX cable or better yet, MC cable as an alternative to conduit? MC is required in any medical facility where the equipment comes in contact with a patient. The exterior looks like BX (flexible metal jacket) but there is a separate ground wire in addition to the jacket bleed found on BX inside. This is called an isolated ground. The outlets used have a green dot on the face to indicate such. Not only the ultimate in shock prevention, but the isolated ground helps reduce noise on sensitive analog input medical equipment ie. EKG and EEG machines.

The wiring code is pretty conservative, so correctly specified breakers for installed circuits, will protect the cables and provide shock protection. The breaker is not specified to protect the load, which should have its own fuse or other suitable protection.

electrician for 20+ years, I would strongly advise erecting a barbed wire fence around your consumer unit to keep out all those nasty stray waves,, of course if you really wanted to do something worth while all you need really do is plug into a mains filter/silencer, simple, cuts out all the bullshit too. 😀

great info on the conduit. thx Paul.

30 amp outlets and 20 amp outlets have completely different plug configurations...Don't really understand the first question. However, I like the 10 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit concept. The bigger the garden hose, the more the flow

Best thing to minimize noise is to wire your room outlets with a dedicated ground. This wire is a TEW, THHN type that is completely isolated. We use those mainly in server rooms and hospitals. This wire passes true the electrical panel on an isolated binding post and from there, a same type of wire, only bigger goes to your main water entrance and connect to the pipe.

It is against the NEC to install a 30 amp breaker when your outlet is only rated up to 20 amps!

Take a look a the Gigawatt Circuit Breaker G-C20A. It’s made in Poland and does a really nice job.

Maybe the codes have changed since I built my house about twenty years ago. I used a single dedicated circuit for my stereo in the living room and the rest of the room was wired as normal. I used 10 Gauge wire and ran a single circuit back to the box which has a 20 Amp breaker. The inspector asked me why 10 Gauge but he approved it. He said the code required a minimum wire size for each current rating and breaker, but you are perfectly fine going with a larger Gauge.

If you are going to install multiple receptacles that are each on their own separate breakers they should all be on the same phase to minimize noise.

They call it a branch circuit. It is nice to have some dedicated 20 amp branch circuits in the stereo room, for the amps (maybe in the floor) and one where you are going to plug in the power conditioner. Most rooms have the outlets on a separate 20 amp branch circuit and the light on a separate 15 amp branch circuit. So your (dedicated) branch circuits would be seperate from the other outlets in the room. Most of the time there are more than one room on the outlet and light branch circuits to save wire, breakers and money. A couple of branch circuits in the house are not going to cost much if the walls are all opened up. You can get wire in a flexible steel conduit which is normally used in areas where the plastic coated romex is exposed to damage; like in the garage or basement. It could be used as a shield I guess. It's easy to pull through the walls. Rigid conduit like Paul mentioned would be tricky to run through the walls. I guess you would have to go over the rafters and come down the wall to the outlet.

Paul even you younger staff members are in to high end audio through headphones. I ready to purchase your FPGA DAC streamer with high end balanced headphone amplifier. The younger generation is moving to this type of audio vs dedicated room for 2 channel. I will be dropping by RMAF this year to meet you and chat about great future of this product. Love you videos and a tiny schilling is Ok.

Just as a suggestion, you may want to consider taking out any dimmer switches that are likely to be running while you're listening to music. Dedicated circuits are definitely the way to go though. I can't comment on the specifics of American wiring rules but a larger cross sectional area cable will always help. Good luck mate.

NEC (national electrical code) allows oversized wire. Most old breakers are thermal tripped. Check your local codes to see what TYPES (thermal, AFCI, GFCI, etc.) of breakers you’re allowed in your listening room. The power supply should cut out any huge peaks, so using a smaller breaker isn’t necessarily a problem for peak wattage.

Julia said it right use a 10awg wire just in case and put a 20amp breaker on the ckt. You can put a 30 amp breaker in if you trip the 20. But also you can run a 10/3 in case you want a 240v ckt. And keep in dedicated if you can.

NEC only allows 110v volt general purpose recepticals to be installed on 15 or 20 amp breakers. A 30 amp circuit requires a 30 amp device. You can definitely de-rate the wire (upsize). If you want an isolated circuit you can run dedicated circuits in MC cable to the required outlets. "home runs". This would provide shielding and isolation without having to run hard pipe. If you run conduit, pull in THWN #10 instead of Romex. You can use a smaller pipe and Romex isn't really made for pulling through long conduit runs. BTW, I'm a Master electrician with 30 years in the trade. In server rooms we run feeders from isolation transformers to iso panels with creates separately derived isolated systems to keep the the data free of interference. You could do that also, but seams like overkill to me. Also, if you have a small service on you're home it can affect overall performance of any equipment. With combined loads the amps build up and you get noticable voltage drop. One example is dimming/flickering lights when the sump kicks on. Upgrade you're service to 200 amp, the larger feeder wires reduce VD in the whole system. My 2 cents.

For higher powered systems we usually recommend a 240 double pole breaker such as 50A. This feeds a distro with single pole breakers 20A each. Larger amps run on 240V directly which is nice. NEVER run NM/NMB (Non Metallic Sheathed cable commonly called Romex which is a brand like calling a copier a Xerox machine, a tissue, Kleenex, etc) inside of EMT! Stranded THHN is pulled through EMT and runs directly to either a distro or sometimes to the outlets directly. In a lot of commercial buildings they will terminate the EMT above a suspended ceiling in an 1800 box or similar and drop Greenfield (BX) down through the wall to the outlet/switch box. In homes this is rarely done. Most of the time it's NM from the breaker box all the way to the outlet box.

No issues with using 10 gauge wire protected by a 15 or 20 amp breaker, larger than required wire is ALWAYS allowed by code as long as the terminals are rated for it and the conduit is large enough. Ideally you only want to use as large of a breaker as necessary for safety reasons. Using a 30 amp breaker on a general receptacle circuit is a violation of the National Electric Code no matter what wiring you use because normal 120 volt receptacles are only rated for 15 or 20 amps and a 30 amp breaker could allow the receptacles to be overloaded. Table 210.21(b)(3) of the NEC shows that only 30 amp receptacles are allowed on 30 amp circuits. Technically if you install a 120V 30 amp receptacle supplied by 10 gauge wiring or larger you could use a 30 amp breaker, but nothing you own would plug into it and there is no good reason to anyways.

If you are spending uber money on exotic high end then you might benefit from a dedicated line. I doubt the outlet greatly affects sound on cheap gear. Expensive treated outlets are not doing alot for the money in my humble Naim Nait 5Si/CD5x/XS. But a higher quality outlet than std- a more robust grade of plug with better grip on the equipment plugs is probably well worth the cost-- a better one at home depot costs ~ $8 [a regular house outlet for 2 plugs ~$4?]. Also, upgraded cords to the gear is worth doing as well - I heard an improvement with a 15' Cable Leader, 14 AWG = 15A 125V, Hospital-Grade NEMA 5-15P [male] to IEC320 C13 [female], $17 ea. replacing the std black cord that came with my Naim Nait 5Si, CD5X/XS gear. I installed a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge romex to a better than std 2 plug outlet [not slot] and ran a copper ground wire from the outlet to a buried iron rod-- Immediately when turned on with the grounded dedicated line, I heard a "relaxation" in the sound, as if the system was now happier, operating better, but I'm not sure its worth the bother. I think a power conditioner might be a better way to go-certainly alot easier! One could comparison test by plugging and unplugging comparing the foregoing with ordiniary old house outlets/ shared undedicated romex/breaker box to see how the sound is changed, but my guess is its not a big difference.

An engineer with IBM and the wires used in mainframe super computers are not us$ 1000.00 dollar a foot. Yes, we do have a inline generator. Wire for Hi-fi is like fishing lures, it does catch people not fish.

Dedicated circuit breaker to amp and streamer is crucial for top sound. Also a good wire in the wall like for example Gigawatt and a circuit breaker like Gigawatt. And the only wall inlet I recommend is the Oyiade swo-xxxe, that has a sound that is very natural and sweet, many other expensive HIFI plugs are usually very analytical and non musical like the Gigawatt and some few Furutech. I also suggest getting a Isol8 mini sub axis power box which is one of the very best, all of this together can save a lot of users several thousands of dollars on amp/speaker upgrades and such. It's probably more like 5-10k. If you don't do these things, the sound has a tendency of being very flat/boring/lacking a great portion of drive/relevance. A huge part of making the sound powerful and effortless and also introducing some natural color to the music, is linked to these things being in place. I hear a lot of expensive systems, sounding very grey/sad/digital, before all of this was done properly. It's the difference between running your system to 10% of it's full potential and something like 40%. (big difference) To get the rest, you need some appropriate cables/plugs and deal with the room and a long list of other things. The power setup is the core of your sound, and everything you do after that, will then have a much bigger effect.

It would be really cool to see the modulation on scope

I've seen buildings that are public venues wired with #10 solid copper with 20A switches and outlets and protected by a 20A breaker. Even though #10 solid copper can carry a 30A load and be protected with a 30A breaker, the outlet is of a different type and that would make it difficult to protect your 15A-20A devices, as you would need a different type plug.

I'm not sure how the dedicated circuit is isolated from the noise on any other circuit in the house. All those circuits branch off the mains and are only separated by breakers, which do not block noise when closed. There is extra distance between the noise source, so that might help but would not be enough to eliminate the noise altogether or even significantly. I still like the idea of a separate circuit and using larger wire with derated sockets.

Howdy. I agree. There are basically two kinds of over currents in the house wiring. Short circuits. Short circuit current activates the breaker magnetic (=fast) breaking. Overload current. Overload currents trigger the thermal breaking of the breaker. The wire AWG must be rated to be able to handle both cases. Let's take a 20 A breaker. The breaker may actually pass about 24 A before the thermal breaking triggers. The house wiring must be rated to conduct this 24 A without overheating and fire hazards. The AWG may easily be chosen using tables. The short circuit rush current is more tricky. If the short current is at least 10 x the breaker rating it may be assumed that the breaker triggers in a time no longer than a few hundres of milliseconds. The house wiring is likely to be able to handle the short current is that short time. In what kind of a situation does the short current not climb to 10 x the rated breaker current ? Shortly: Long property feeder cable and weak high voltage grid. The short current may be only, say, 4 x the breaker nominal current. The magnetic (=fast) breaking does not trigger and the short may run a long time in the house wiring until the thermal breaking activates. There is a very real fire hazard. So. By reducing the breaker from 30 A to 20 A there is a kind of "guarantee" that there is enough "short force" available feeding the breaker to enable fast triggering. Regards.

Good advice with the breakers, normally an electrician will give you the minimum so you are right.

Paul, can you make a video on power conditioners? Been eyeing one of the Panamax units.

The simplest power solution is to build yourself an EMI/RFI power filter. Very easy to do because they are already prebuilt in modules that are cheap and easy to get. Just go on eBay and search for EMI/RFI filter and pick a 20AMP modules (this is important, less than 20 amps and you take the chance of peak current draws causing the internal coil to ring and create more noise than it filters). These are available for as little as $5 and should not be greater than about $30. You can get larger units (30, 40 50 amps, 2, 3 phase) but they cost more so start with a cheaper 20 amp. These units just need to be wired inline with a power bar (start with a cheap one and upgrade later if you like). Cut the cord on the power bar, connect the line side of the module to the plug side of the cord and the load to the outlet bar side. Make sure that you are plugged into a regular circuit with a half decent ground. A few bucks and 10 minutes of your time and you'll be amazed. I've been building them and giving them away to friends for 25 years now and have yet to have ANYONE say they don't hear a difference. Usually, I get asked for another one for another system or friend of theirs. If your comfortable fixing a broken extension cord, you can build yourself a filter. Go ahead and try it, you'll be delighted.

Here in greater New York a 30 amp Romex can not be run in conduits from a 20 amp breaker. But you can run a 30 amp Romex to a 30 amp breaker in your service entrance and connect it to it’s own 2 circuit sub panel with a 15 amp or 20 amp circuit breaker in your theater or music room. Or a 4 circuit sub panel with two 15 amp breaker’s in your media room. So Paul is correct in the use of a ten gauge Romex . Just remember to use proper code for enclosed wire inside interior walls . If using Romex then skip conduits. THHN and it’s variants XHHW for use in sub panel work via conduits is not necessary to avoid EMI and other noise .You can condition at your media room. Modern service entrance offers whole house surge protection.

Hi Paul, dedicated lines with Duelund. But there can be some very surprising colateral results with amps transformers BTW, they can get pretty hot as some are not designed to work with anything else that very bad cable behind them. I had TWO of them almost smoking (NAD 3150) with a 2 m bi-wiring, so I made a 4 m single wiring with both cable. Temperature was back to normal, stage was wider, but the incredible sound textures and ferocious punchiness of the short bi-wiring was gone ! How could this transformers get so hot ? At most, resistance was divided by 4, bc 2 wires and half length, but others factors must have played some mysterious effects.

Yes, i agree, i use a 20 amp breaker on my system. :-)

The circuit breaker protects the installed wiring not the load that's what the fuse in each bit of gear does NZ

I’ve seen a video of a guy in Japan buy his OWN step down transformer and pole !

Hey Paul , I can only imagine the cost of wiring your house in this fashion, I hope he has some what deep pockets!!!

In my opinion ,on a 10 gauge wire There is no danger outing a 20 Amp breaker, even if the load is greater, it will be a pain because it will trip all the time for no apparent reason, but there will be no fire danger.

It's fine to have 10 gauge on a 20 amp breaker. Sometimes you need to run a 20 amp outlet so far 12 gauge isn't thick enough. The danger comes in when you have a 30 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire or a receptacle rated at 20 amps allowing you to overload the conductor or receptacle before the breaker pops. It's not against code to use a bigger than usual conductor on a breaker it's just unusual (of course make sure the terminal on the breaker is rated for the size wire though) basically just make sure anything down the line is rated at or above

what camera are you using to record your videos?

Hi Paul..greetings from Paranque Philippines.learned a lot from your videos..my question is..are there electrical,sonic advantages between RCA,balanced and DIN inputs/outputs? I have a Naim supernait amp w DIN jacks which I don't see in other gear..just curious Again thank you for your videos Ramon Lopez

All components have a fused plug and many have internal fuses in the case, so how much protection do you need.

Can you get 10 gage wire under the terminal screws on your receptacle? 12 gage wire is hard enough to manage and is usual in house wiring.

For a point of reference 30 Amp is usually what you use for an electric stove and has a special type of outlet

First and most important all grounds tie into the main panel and only the main panel. Second better to run two dedicated 20 or 15 amp circuits and forget the 30amp circuit breaker idea, unless you plan on connecting a recreational vehicle.

really dam good video

I own a commercial building and must use conduit. You use stranded wire in conduit. It is easier to pull, you can add multiple circuits and it conducts better than solid. You can easily run 3 circuits through a conduit and then branch it to 3 outlets. Not sure what star grounds are.

Basically the conduit would be acting as shielding just like a mic cable or signal cable redirecting the interference noice to ground.

something to keep in mind is,using too bigger cb also means more fault current is required to trip it,so put simply,you may draw enough current to start a fire but not enough to actually trip the breaker,couple this with time & transients & fault current makes for very dangerous circumstances.I would use an isolation(1 to 1)transformer,on a dedicated 20A circuit,which will reduce your noise issues anyway.I realise this is USA,I am an Australian EE,but still a hot naked babe is the same no matter where in the world 😛

Nice

Fair enough that 10 gauge wire MATERIAL isn't much more expensive, but it sure is a pain in the ass to deal with as compared to standard 12 or 14 gauge, so the labor cost (or at least the annoyance by your electrician :P) is likely to be higher.

This is where you are wrong Paul. The wire that goes into EMT pipe is mostly THHN or THWN not romex. Romex is only 60 degree insulation which is fine for houses but not rated for commercial plenum installations. I would run 2-20A circuits if you have larger power requirements.

it so easy just put 20amp line 12g wire u done, forget 30amp that over kill and wrong as well.

Perry Smiles Good day Mr. Paul! I need your advice please... On short runs, it's not too difficult to choose a necessary wire gauge for speaker cables... but it's more the long runs that are questionable for me. Therefore in my case, I need to install a 70 foot run to my rear Atmos speakers... is 12 gauge OFC sufficient for this lenght? Some info out there suggests that 10 gauge might remove quality of sound on the highs (mid-range and tweeter)... is this true to your knowledge? Or is 10 AWG what I should install instead of 12 AWG? My Atmos installation as rear heights will be Canton AR-500's (4 - 8ohms) powered by my AVR Onkyo RZ-50, and I set the AMP impedance at 6 to 8 Ohms (rather than set at 4 to 6 Ohms). Please help me choose the right gauge (AWG) before I purchase the speaker wire, since I will need a CL2 rated wire for in-wall installation. Thank you in advance! Perry

I hope this person is rich! Installing conduit will more than likely double the cost for any cabling job. I deal with a lot of cable installation in my line of work and would recommend only running a few feet of conduit at the very end near the termination point.

First again...still enjoying and learning

10 Gage wire will carry 30 amps up to certain distance with a voltage drop less than 3%. Soto say that a 10 gage wire is good for 30 amps is wrong. it depends on distance and whether the wire is made of copper, aluminum or copper with silver coating. Always check your tables and never go to the maximum capacity of the wire/metal/distance. allow a 30% safety when selecting a beaker.

Two comments, it's very hard to run Romex through just about any kind of conduit, I would think 10 gauge solid AWG single strand would be easier and maybe cheaper through conduit. Also tough to connect 10AWG solid to a 20 amp outlet, not totally impossible, but difficult.,

While you certainly could have a separate circuit or even an separate mains panel for your audio space, I wonder the benefits of such extreme in the last 100ft or so of the electrical grid. Upgrading the utility amperage is not a trivial matter, and I have seen houses/apts with as little as 100A service. With an 80% limit on usable capacity, you are looking at 80A to still be in code in that example. There are quite a few situations that would preclude upgrading, even. A 30A circuit requires a different outlet, as typical ones are rated for 15A and 20A, visually identifiable by the slot config. So many variables to consider in doing such things. I would never recommend simply installing a higher rated breaker than the cabling allows. You are asking for a fire that no insurance company will cover.

What do studios do about tube consoles that need 50+ amp breakers and then they have a mains/sub setup that requires 7,000 watts? Do they dedicate breakers for the console, mains, and then another breaker for outboard gear and then another for misc.? Aren't there potentials for ground hum, shorts, etc.?

BX electrical cable would probably do same job.

The breaker is sized to protect the wire and receptacle, #14 = 15A breaker 12A load, #12 = 20A breaker 16A load , #10 = 30A breaker 24A load. www.ecmweb.com/basics/sizing-circuit-breaker You can up size the wire to reduce resistance, but if you still terminate the wire with a lower amperage device, the breaker must be sized for it(terminating a #10 in a 15A device is much harder), for example a 15A receptacle with #10 wire must be protected with a 15A breaker, using a larger breaker risks a fire at the receptacle. waterheatertimer.org/images/Wire-size-and-amp-chart-700.jpg You could use a 30A receptacle #10 wire, and 30A breaker and change the cord end to your equipment to fit the receptacle, but if there is ever a fault condition, you only have the internal fuse to protect it, so if the short happens just before the fuse, you could risk a fire if the breaker doesn't trip fast enough so you also have to change the power cord to #10. Having a dedicated run of power wire to each receptacle will reduce EMI from other devices in your house, I would go one step further and isolate the grounds from the the other ground circuits at the panel and run a separate ground back to the main ground(water main? ground rod?), this will help keep the ground plane free of EMI from computers, PWM power bricks, etc... I would use conduit strictly for future changes, it's so much easier to pull out older technology wiring and pull in newer stuff, for example I pulled CAT5 to all receptacles, to all switches and to TV locations in my brothers house for future use, they all were pulled to a media termination cabinet(this is over and above network runs) I also pulled #12/4 speaker wire to each room for distributed audio. Ideally I would have run conduit to each non power location and pull what I want when it's needed, Cat 5 then, Cat6 now, fiber in the future. Keep your power wires away from the other wiring as much as you can and you won't need metal conduit for shielding. I should add that I wouldn't pull Romex through conduit, I would pull the proper individual wires as needed, THHN insulation in US, RW90 XLPE in CAN. www.titanwnc.com/nec-csa-designations/ I would also buy the best receptacles, Hospital grade iaeimagazine.org/magazine/2005/01/16/receptacle-grades-what-do-they-mean/

Gah! If you put something together that uses a 30A 115V circuit, you did something very very wrong. IF you really buy into needing a big breaker and big wire, then run a 15A or 20A 220V circuit to a sub-panel in your listening room. The whole thing is kinda silly. All the wires in the house run to a common ground in the box, and you only have 1 wire coming in from the pole. You could fire up your amp, and see the fluctuations at the meter... A power supply will do more than a big breaker...

As an electrician check your incoming supply and earth ie a zs test If you have a shitty earth reading your amplifiers going to have problems Audio cable must be away from power sources

Wow. Does nuclear-generated power sound better than coal or is that just an old wives tale?

A dedicated circuit IS a dedicated breaker.

20 Amp with APC.Sub's direct to wall.Sub's R Hungry Beast's.60+NOOB.Ground to dedicated Grounding Pole.Do-not share ur Neighbour's E-Noise via House Plumbing ...

For you guy's you should use Romex made from the center of earth!🤣

Only one purpose for a breaker, Fire, no other purpose...

The amplifier already has built in filtering.

Doesn't the fuse in the plug serve as a breaker

why don't you make a better power supply then you don't have these problems (if there are any)

Of course there are dumb questions. Imagine someone asking: "what is the purpose of a mountain?"

Great answer all you need is to be sued if someone's house burns down because you know it will happen

As for the term called " GROUND" it is really called " BONDING" the only part that is grounded is your electrical panel , which IE consist of a ground plate or ground Rods. Which are placed outside.....

10awg isn’t that much more than 12awg…. Lol. It’s 50% more copper.

Romex in the conduit can burn your house down.

4:51 ... There is absolutely NO REASON to place "Romex" into steel conduits. Normally these are filled with color coded insulated 12 gauge wires. (Black and white) The conduit itself is the ground connection. In three phase installations there can also be red and blue wires.

Just get a UPS, problem solved.

You are weird, definitely problem with inspection and code. Why you think that way because you have a common sense. If you put one size bigger wire than the fuse need you don't burn of your house, but this is against the code ...?!... I dont think the problem is you...

People buy 500 dollar power cables and plug them into wall sockets with crap copper wires from the home supply shop. How does that make sense?

Question: sometimes when I fart it stinks?

1:43 Is this even English?

wow can't these people just listen to the music

no offense, but if you have to do such tricks, and your equipment is sensitive to noise, throw that audio equipment in the garbage, because it is garbage