This is one the best explained the working in a highly technical manner especially with all the components with cut VS section , and also the schematic diagrams, Awesome, Superb 👍, fantastic, Thanks 😊
Thanks Frank. Excellent explanation. Been using Coleman' devices for decades and never fully understood this. BTW.....has anyone told you that you bear a striking resemblance to Alice Cooper? Add the black eye paint.... you're a dead ringer
Your videos are great I really appreciate the information and it's fun to see the museum pieces my grandfather j hamblin was the Northwest regional sales rep for Coleman for decades until he retired. We used to have huge garage sales from all the returned items that we took and stored in our barn and repaired lanterns boats everything you could freaking imagine. I was often on lantern patrol replacing stems and seals and mantels end globes lots of globes. I really enjoy channels that stoke the nostalgia in me.
Thank you, Frank for sharing your knowledge with us newcomers to the Coleman world. I needed a new hobby to keep me occupied in my shop, and when I saw two old Coleman lanterns in a thrift store, I bought them both to see if I could get them working. One is from 1959, and the other is from 1961. I have also bought one from 1971 recently. As soon as I discovered your RU-vid channel, I was hooked. I follow your step by step guidance to help me disassemble, clean, repair, and reassemble my lanterns. Thanks to you, my lanterns have a new lease on life and their journey will continue on for a new generation to enjoy. I also live in Idaho, and love it here.
This has made my day, Alice Cooper has taught me the innards of a Coleman stove and I mean that in the most complimentary way possible. Rock on my friend. 🙂
I have been using thes for years but out of nowair i needed to use one beacus the power went out and it presurises but gas is not coming out .anyone have any ideas ? I might just need to take it apart and rebiuld it again it has ben 15 years 🤔
Why is the pump tube hollow and what is the purpose of the small hole at the top of the handle ? Are you supposed to block it with your thumb as your pumping ? I've watched lots of videos hoping for an answer
I don't know the official answer, but it appears that the little hole is to let you put the handle inside the tank if the pressure is already too high to pump even a little more. Imagine there's no hole in the handle. You unscrew the handle and start pumping; at some moment you realise that the pressure is already high enough so you want to push the handle inside and screw it. But you can't, beacuse you've already pumped so much air, that no more can be let in. So what can you do right now? How to hide the handle? To release all the pressure through the filling cap and starting the process over? Or just to cook with the handle up? That's why there's that little hole in the handle. The rod connected to the handle (the one we move up and down) is a pipe opened at the bottom. And if you don't close the hole with your finger, the air just escapes through it while you push the handle down, so you want to pump the air you have to close the hole. But when you don't want to apply any more pressure to the tank, but you want to hide the handle, you just release your thumb and let the new portion of the air just escape. Releasing the thumb before screwing the handle doesn't let the pressure escape from the tank, because there's the ball valve inside. The screw valve is somehow like a handbrake in a car, it's for long term holding the pressure; while the ball valve is like a service brake of your car. The ball valve holds the pressure during the pumping, but you can't rely on it during cooking or storing. Can anyone confirm my theory?
@@Krzysztof-Bodke I have always wondered the same question myself as I noticed it pump either way, hole on pump handle covered or not. Your explanation makes the most sense that I have found d so far. Thanks for your input.
This is very interesting timing. I an in the process of rebuilding an early model 431 2 burner stove and a 1991 295 lantern. Both of them needed the pumps rebuilt. The 431 still has the original leather pump cup and it was dry and stiff, but after working it with dubbin it softened up and is as good and as supple as new. I cleaned the whole pump tube and all parts, re-lubed and reassembled and I was shocked at how much better it worked and how quickly it built up pressure. This got me thinking about how the whole pump mechanism worked and I pretty much worked out just what you showed here. But this got me thinking, because as a kid when camping it was always drilled into me that when pumping up the stove you MUST remove your thumb from the pump hole on the up stroke. So many others say this was not required and I admit it did work. BUT...I found after rebuilding the pump on my 431 it builds pressure significantly faster if I remove my thumb from the hole on the pump when pulling on the up stroke. I have to assume that this is why the whole is there in the first place unless it was just easier to manufacture the tube with the hole all the way through instead of one end being blind. But my stove pressurises way faster now if I cover the hole on the down stroke and uncover the hole on the up stroke. The 295 has the neoprene cup which pretty much disintegrated and has totally fouled up the pump tube and check valve so it is still in the process of the rebuild. Haven't been able to source a replacement leather cup locally as they are all sold out. But this can wait. But I greatly appreciate this video if only for the fact that you confirmed that I did figure out the basic operation principals of the pump without researching. Thanks.
My pleasure, always glad to help. By removing your finger from the hole, you are allowing air to flow into the area below the pump cup with less resistance that it would get by flowing over the pump cup. Either way will work, but not removing your finger would be faster. If you ever find an old 242 or 242A that does not have a hole in the pump stem, and you try to push it down to lock it away, you'll understand why the hole is there...it is quite difficult to do. Pushing the pump down without your finger over the hole is really easy and makes finishing the pressurization process a breeze.
Thanks Frank. I’ve watched your video’s but still having problems with my 285-700t. It’s struggles to light. I’ve changed the generator and the font o ring. But it splutters and lights but then goes out. Upstream of the font is clean and good. Is there a blockage in the valve or font? Fuel does flow but it is sporadic. Any help appreciated. Thank you and keep up the great work!
Just the video I was looking for. Seen a pressure lamp and was really curious on how it worked. And you Sir are answering just that. Very interesting and informative!
I'm 59 years old and never really had a hobby. Thanks to you and your videos I now have a hobby that I love. I have several different lanterns and even old oil lamps that I now am cleaning and refurbishing. About 15 years ago I found a 242C in a dumpster with nickel fount. It doesn't work and the fount has rust dust in it. That lantern has always been my favorite but I never knew what to do with it but thanks to you, I now know how to fix it and clean it up. Gotta love that base line groove in the beginnings of the videos!
Hi Frank, I just bought a Coleman Lantern model CQ/C 1919. Can you solve me how to fix it to make it light up. And also can you show me where to buy a shell cover. Thanks,
The vertical tube from the pump is not vertical to put the air above the fuel to pressurize it. Air will get there with no special help. The tube is there so fuel doesn't go into the pump. Hence the admonition NOT to overfill the fount and flood the pump. Also, the check valve is designed to let the air go one way but prevent the FUEL to go the other way. Not air. But i guess we all know that. Beautiful pictures. Beautiful lamps.
What happen if the Check Valve is permanently submerged to kerosene gas because of a faulty Pump Tube? Can I still continue pumping and create pressure inside the gas tank?
Frank, thanks X3 for this expert video, not only makes me remember my Jesuit teachings with mechanical drawings, makes me knowledgeable of the workings of the compressed air tanks much understanding which are still used even for rockets and turbines .... I always wanted to cut one out and now I dont have too anymore ; )
I bought a coleman stove a few years back for a few dollars to take on camping trips with our old VW Camper. It kind of worked but it wasn't getting much pressure. It was put to the side for a year while I started looking into converting it to propane or was going to toss it completely. This winter I came across an old Coleman lantern & it too wasn't working right. Then I found this channel. From getting my lantern to work & understanding what's going on, I was able to completely take apart, clean & redo my lantern. From there I got my stove working (all I needed to do was clean the generator tip & oil the leather cup. It's really simple but without channels like this, I would have never got them going & would have gave up. Now I'm partially addicted to lanterns, bought 4 more cheap finds (2 Coleman & 2 Sears - Blue/black big hat & the avocado) and even got a super nice 502 with pot/pan, original boxes & advertisements which I love. Thanks Frank. You're a great instructor. - Jamie from Pennsylvania Edit: I also got my 18 year old son his first coleman lantern & together we went through it all, I explained how it worked and how to take it apart & put back together. I'm glad to pass down info I have to younger generations.
Thank you so much! Keep these videos coming. Without you I would have a bunch of cool lanterns hanging in my grandpa’s garage with the memories of days past. Now they are all working and my family loves camping and fishing with them. More importantly, thanks to your videos my kids are learning to keep and maintain these awesome air looms alive! You’re the best Brother!
Robert thank you so much for the very kind comments. It is people like you and your family that are in my mind when I make them and I love helping keep the old Colemans alive. Best to you.
Ha Ha!! Love the blooper beginning. Been looking for an instructional video like this for a long time. Finally found this one by accident. THANKS VERY MUCH FOR PRODUCING IT!
I think I bumped into your channel 10+/- years back and even ordered parts from you. You have done a GREAT service for Coleman stoves/lanterns/etc over the years. !!! THANK YOU!!!
Hello been watching your vids got a question… got a Coleman 220f 1965 took apart to clean and I left valve body on the tank and pressure tested and no leaks and check valve good but was wondering while I opened valve to release air after about 45 pumps the air gets released in approximately 10-15 seconds is that proper working condition??? Just seems to quick am I missing something???
I just got a powerhouse dual fuel lantern and this is my first lantern but I’ve already fixed the check valve and the rubber seal on the cap so now it hold pressure. I took the generator tube off and I can see the little needle come out the top with the knob turned. Those only thing it does is I can hear it hiss but no sputter so I’m guessing the pick up tube is clogged right?
Love Coleman products and have been using them for MANY years! Thanks for the very illustrative and informative vid. I have a few lanterns that I have aquired that are not functioning. Hopefully with yer help I can get these going. Thanks again.
Great video. What is your opinion on the neoprene pump cup coleman uses nowadays? Also what is the best oil to use on the rubber? Coleman recommends light machine oil but I'm not 100% on what exactly counts as light machine oil.
MIND BLOWN. Im so impressed with Franks knowledge. Happy to see someone who loves coleman gas appliances as much as I do! I felt like I was on a dessert island, Just me and my coleman lantern. Great work, very masterful.
I thought I understood the pressure system - but never asked myself what purpose was served by closing the pump (turning is clockwise) - I just assumed it locked the piston in place or something. It just shows 'every day is a school day' :)
One of the Best Tutorials I have seen in a while excellent Explanation say that 3 times but seriously a very detailed and comprehensive view of the lamp and I would assume this applies to the Stove too 10/10
Hermano eres el mejor, es genial encontrar alguien que te enseñe sobre estas hermosas lámparas de gasolina sin dudas subscribirme a tu canal fue lo mejor que me ha pasado y sin dudas este canal se merece muchos más subscriptores Saludos desde Colombia y una gran abrazo.
I was given a stove and when I Prime it it burns ok for about a minute then the flame goes down I have determined it has a leak by Pressurizing it and submersing it in Petrol the whole stove under petrol and there is a tiny pin hole in the Base of the stove can I seal this with liquid metal of some kind of glue? Otherwise it seams a good little stove its like the Feather Type Stoves but it is a Coleman for sure
For those of us that grew up with you over 20 years ago (and spent hundreds in parts) it sure would be nice if you would do a "How To" on rebuilding and the differences in the CQ Lamp that you are very proud of. Why not?
Hi Frank, thanks for these very informative videos. I am in process of rebuilding 200a lantern. I have question about maintaining the pressure. For longest time I thought that these lamps have some feedback system to keep pressure high in fount, so that only you need initial 20 pumps to start it and then it would run by itself. I listen carefully to your videos however I think I am missing something. Do I have to pump up the lantern from time to time or will it run by itself once it is started? Can you please clarify?
Glad I found your channel, great content. Looking forward to the rest of the series. The vertical tube at the outlet end of the pump is not to direct pressurized air up into the top as air would naturally rise without this tube but instead it is open to the air pocket above the fill level to prevent liquid gas from bleeding back into the pump cylinder in case of a check valve failure. Bleeding off air is always safer than bleeding off gas.
No matter how much carb cleaner I spray into the check valve I cannot get it to stop leaking. I do not have a removal tool and I'm worried about ruining the valve. Would it be advisable to try a citric acid solution down there instead of carb cleaner? It's my understanding that citric acid is what's used once the valve is out
Hey there I ordered a new 639c and the globe was busted and it has scratches and scrapes all over the tank so what could I do to remove the scratches from the paint
The 242 c lantern has a small fountain. On a unit that has no air leaks, and has been pumped up to pressure with a tank of fuel, how long should this lantern burn at a moderate intensity without requiring any additional pumping to maintain brightness? Was the small size of the fountain the reason that it was discontinued in the US?
Thank you so much for these videos Frank! I'm young and got my first two Coleman's last summer. Need to restore one and am trying to learn more about these. Happy to see some of the older enthusiasts making it online now. Keep making these videos! If you had the means, it'd be awesome to find a book on this stuff
John thank you very much and it is my pleasure. If you Google search "Coleman Collector Club book" you'll find an incredible one. Also look on Facebook for D&D Lanternworks as Darcy has written an absolutely beautiful book on Coleman (and other) lamp shades. Thanks again!
I am always amazed at how well the system works when I pick up a lantern that has not been used for 40 years and find that the fount is still pressurized.
ps - you still doing the regular gas test? - how many tanks are you up to now? - I really want to see what the generator looks like between the two when you tear them down - I have no-ethanol gas near me and may start trying it - but will drain yearly and use leftover in my lawnmower.
Bill, absolutely, I will be recording the "gas test" video in the next few weeks. It is complete and I'm also excited to see the difference between the two on the inside.
Frank, Tonight I finished rebuilding a 242C lantern that my Ranger School buddy recently gave me. With the guidance of your tutorials I successfully did it! What a thrill to light it for the first time. I just watched the theory of operation video part 1 and it, like all the others, is first class! Thank you!!!
Hello Frank, you have a very good communication skill. Don't want to bog you down with endless questions : However i can not seem to find a check valve Part Number, any place i can find one etc. Where do you source your parts ? Its a thirty year old lantern model 325A. I am in Nova Scotia. Thoughts?
Hello Frank,, you might not think so but this is the best explanation on how the font holds pressure, then anything on you tube ! Its very easy with the pictures you put up. I have about 19 different lamps and about 14 different stoves, I thought I knew it all . but you thought me somethings I did not know this is better then school ! THANK you Frank from montana. Can't wait for more videos....
As I’m living in Ireland there are not many Coleman lanterns available here. The lanterns available are mostly Tilley or vapalux. Both kerosene lanterns. I have managed to get a Coleman 639 kerosene in mint condition and a 220 F. The 639 I have lit and no problems with it. My question is regarding the fuel for the 220F. I frequently see on RU-vid people in USA talking about white gas, Coleman fuel and pump gas. I can get Coleman fuel if I take a 2hr drive and then it’s about $14 for a 750ml bottle. “ white gas “ is unavailable. So…is pump gas what we call “ unleaded petrol “ ? Available in the petrol stations.
Yeah, me too! Started looking for the next one, & saw this 1 came out 2 days ago. It's funny, we were out camping until this morning with 2 lanterns, a stove, a kitchen table, cooler, chairs & tents, all by coleman. We should be sponsored. Lol
Thank you for the instructions. I have been guessing and hit or miss. Like a car shop changing out parts till it works. These three will help me diagnose before taking it apart.
