No kidding, most people making videos on YT are totally clueless how annoying and distracting their insistence on putting stupid music into their videos….. But here, none of that…. Good job for not doing that!:)
@@rickyperkins232 East Coast US they have it Home Depot, but not Lowe’s, and of course at drywall supply shops. It’s really, really good stuff, but absolutely unforgiving to mistakes.
“Against my own advice….. you know, YOLO!” 🤣🤣🤣 I found this channel by ‘happy accident’ - searching for a topic to get back up to speed in renovating- and after the first couple videos, I realized I really like the way this man is real, showing mistakes, forgetting what he was trying to make a point in saying and little quirky comments. By far my favorite guy to watch while refreshing my knowledge on mudding drywall.
Man just thank you for doing these videos. You've saved my ass with these things. I've went from remodeling my bathroom to doing side jobs because people have saw the photos I've posted of the completed remodel and have contacted me wanting work done. Luckily you've taught me well because I need the side jobs because I need the money, got my wedding coming up in October and you've helped me make that possible. Just know that in doing these simple things you've helped me reach a lifetime goal. Thank you bud and your damn good at what you do, God bless you!!!
As a DIY guy I redid 2 rooms in my house using mesh tape and USG all purpose mud and have had no problems with it. I find paper tape much harder to lay down and get the initial coat on without having air pockets.
Mesh tape tip; After putting mesh tape down spray it with spray glue, that keeps those little loose ends from standing up when you smear on the mud that ends up as those little dots after sanding that'll show all the way through paint, the spray glue trick will save you plenty of headaches when using mesh tape.
@@dukecraig2402 does that cause problems down the line, say in 10 years? I like this tip, just wanted to make sure. Also, what spray glue did you have success with?
As a noob who has had problems with paper tape lifting off, I find the mesh tape a lot less error prone because I lack the experience to get the right amount of mud underneath the paper tape; too much and the joint sticks up proud, too little and there isn't enough adhesion. With the mesh I just coat it enough to hide the tape and I know it will work.
With too much under the paper tape just squeeze it all out. You really cant put too much because your going to squeeze it all out, Too little mud is the problem and you might want it a little more wet to saturate the paper ( well it should be a little saturated at least)
I pre mud with mesh tape because even tho the tape is self adhesive... It usually doesn't stick so the pre mud not only fills the joints but holds the tape in place for sure. Also when you have big gaps you double tape the joint offsetting the mesh by half a row. Been veneer plastering and joint compounding in New England for over 20 years and this is how we do it.
Ben, Thank You.. You help me clarify when to use mesh verse paper tape. My wife was listening in while I watched the video.. Her comment was " He is funny " . THANK you again for making your videos educational, informative and entertaining with your humor!! Keep up the good work!
I love that you don't edit out the parts where you lost your train of thought. It makes you so much more personable and relatable. We are so much more interested in what you are teaching us than we are concerned that your'e not perfect. And you do a really good job of teaching us. This is the sixth video of yours I've watched and I won't be using most of what I've learned. I just like learning different things and since I bought a house, I figure it won't hurt and maybe some day when a contractor is telling me a bunch of BS, I'll know it because I have.
5:49 That’s the nicest “way” I’ve heard anyone actually call “those types of joints”…. Had an interesting day; as we showed up to a jobsite and ended up having to fix a bathroom that was grouted and tiled “in a way that wasn’t necessarily right”; so, was one of those days (meaning, didn’t know about this till 2 mins after walking on job, and wasn’t expecting it, but, THINGS HAPPEN). Do gotta say, when you walk into a shower that’s tiled ya kinda expect it to stay on the wall, not be on the shower floor, or having pieces of grout missing from sections of wall; & sadly, the company who first did this didn’t wanna do a call back and ………(ya get the cliff notes😉). Should have been doing minor drywall touch ups/repair, fixing door reveals, & final cleanup. IT MADE ME SMILE & LAUGH 😂 THX Ben, and do enjoy watching your vids b/c like your work, personality, & ya pull ppl in, and also like to pickup tips/tricks from others….as “can always learn something new”, is what I say; & the minute you stop is when ya might wanna think about some things😉 Have a good one, & hope knee feeling better✌🏻
@@tbag-2224 as not saying actual word for many reasons, but if truly don’t know. We refer to these types as “BLEEP” JOINTS. What Ben said was, and can Google, but usually referred to a boy/male that “a person born of parents not married to each other”, is definition from Google.
This is another helpful video. I need to do a final bathroom remodel that will require drywalling. I'll need to find his videos on which muds to use for which jobs. I tend to go to Menards or HomeDepot and buy a bucket of mud. I need to find a refresher on which mud to use when.
I use paper tape on inside corners only. I use mesh and Speed set mud for 1st 2 coats on all seams. Final coat is premixed easy sand mud. It works for me just fine. i do pack the large gaps with speedset also prior to any taping. I love SPEED SET MUD for its strength and no shrinkage aspects. most of the time i use 45min. as i can usually use half a bucket just before it starts to set up. and by the time i get the 1st coat laid out its dry enough to start the second coat at the beginning
I use mesh for my joints, for patches, i even use mesh in my corners. And a tip for joining new board to old board - use a fast drying roll on primer to coat the seams... you'd be surprised how much of a dif it makes
in kitchen sometime I mix fine tile grout (unsanded) with latex paint and use that to bond the mesh. It works in bathrooms as well to bond the mesh tape to cement board. Ive done dozens of houses that way and NO ISSUES.
Love the video! As a long time finisher I agree with the setting mud IF you need to use mesh tape. It should be avoided if possible because Mesh tape is for Plaster where you have a base coat and top coat where the mess has a 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch coverage over the mesh tape. It's mainly because if you have any movement it will crack much faster than paper tape. I use a lot of Quickset on jobs for taping and 1st coat just because of the durability of it. I also coat screws and nails with it and in most times just double wipe them the 1st time if they bubble with excess mud. I'll also give them a quick scrape after the 1st coat dries. For some of the comments below the trick is to do tighter coats so you have to sand less. When you get good at finishing you should have a very minimal amount of sanding to do. Basically be able to just rub the edges with your fingers to buff the mud to paper transition. This way you dont rough up the drywall paper sanding and then need to sand again after you prime the surface. If you sand too much and fuzz the paper you will see it no matter how many times you paint it. Thanks for the videos.
Actually if you put mud down first like with paper tape before you put mesh tape down it won't crack anymore often than paper tape does. Hardly anyone knows that with mesh tape you're really supposed to put mud down first, the adhesive on the one side of mesh tape is not for sticking it to the drywall, the only reason it's on the tape is to keep the roll from falling apart and "birdnesting", unlike paper when the fiber tape is rolled up it wants to straighten out, the adhesive is only on it to keep it from doing that and becoming a big mess, if you contact the tape manufacturers they'll tell you the proper way to use it is to put mud down first just like paper tape.
@@dukecraig2402 This is news to me. Bought some self sticking mesh today. I had no idea it was peel and stick. Never again! Anyway, the peel and stick seems to go against what you are saying. Actually, I do not like working with any mesh tape. I always seem to have trouble getting it covered in a timely manner without a lot of mud.
I now have some mesh tape that is not self adhesive. I do mot like dealing with mesh tape much at all. Just seems like it takes more mud to cover it. Been doing some patching and repairing in a rental apartment lately mostly with paper tape and ProForm mud. I am no pro by a long shot, but I have done some very good drywall hanging and finishing. That being said, I have never had such a hard time getting the results I want.
Being a newbie, I think I’ll stick to hot mud & all purpose. I prefer sanding out the high spots if possible & floating out the rough spots. Will use mesh tape when needed but will usually use paper tape. Get it done step-by-step step. May take longer but it WILL look good when it’s finished.
Absolutely. I stuck firmly to the step-by-step as well, because it always produced a great end product. It was only after spending a little quality time with some real professionals did I start to see some speed-increasing methods that made some sense. But on jobs of any size I still stick to the steps.
Hot mud when you are in a hurry, but generally hot mud is almost impossible to sand. Can be great for a first coat but unless it's a quick fix I prefer general all purpose. Even the lightweight has it's drawbacks.
You cant just stick to all purpose. You need durabond when you need to ensure that the seam wont crack. Such as from going from plaster/plasterboard to drywall, OR if you are patching a spot that has already cracked.
I have learned a lot from you, you helped me do my kitchen remodel and that ceiling work sucked... too old to work above my head, but I did it. I recently put in a sliding door and that drywall came out perfect. Until our black lab pup licked all the mud off the wall, but I was able to fix that too.
I was taught to undercoat mesh tape. The glue they use is temporary and weak and the thin undercoat makes for a continuous strip of mud to adhere to and so you can get mud deeper into the voids first. The mesh is to reinforce the mud, not hold the joint and I think that's why so many people have it fail. The only time I’ve only had mesh fail when undercoated when the joint was shifting really bad (heaving). The glue is nice to put everything in place while cutting it to size however, or to keep it on a ceiling as you work. I hope FibaFuze comes out with a tacky sided version (and gets cheaper). In that case the glue might even help it not release fibers so you could freely touch it
I do a lot of historic restoration work, love the tan colored heavy duty mesh tape for repairing cracks or breaks in original plaster walls and also tying old plaster walls in to drywall or new plaster.
Its nice to be able to see the detail of the finish on your first pass. I was trying to make it look too good and getting frustrated. I'm working on a remodel that makes your "Nasty remodel" look great! I could kick whoever hung this cabin!!!
Our home had the sewer back up, so the bottom of the dry wall soaked dirty water. I cleaned up the space and had to cut out that wall and replace it. The space was super tight, no surface was flat, it was very low, it had the floor edge, multiple corners both going inwards and outwards. Wasn't very satisfied with my job. Just did my first layer and I'll add another layer when it gets dry before I sand it down. Hopefully it will look better.
Im a Contractor from ontario and I want to thank you for telling people they DONT need to Pre-Fill when using fiber Tape. Ive been proving people wrong on this for years. If you are going to take the time to pre fill Then just use PAPER tape on your 2nd coat. Like really. Time is money.
Actually just like with paper tape you should put mud down first before you apply mesh tape, I'm not talking about pre filling, which you will be doing, but you're really supposed to wipe a layer of mud on the drywall before applying mesh tape. The glue on mesh tape isn't there to stick it to the drywall like everyone thinks, it's only on the tape to keep it from unraveling and turning into a big mess, unlike paper which will stay curled up when you wind it around something the mesh tape wants to straighten itself out much more than paper does so they put the glue on it to keep it from happening. If you contact the tape manufacturer's they'll tell you the proper way to use mesh tape is just like paper tape, apply a layer of mud, put the tape on and then apply another layer of mud over it.
Thanks for your videos man! I'm curious about wide skimming blades, like 24-32". Seems like it would save a ton of time and arm strain on a job like this where it's all multiple trowel widths. I've always done full durabond as a first coat even on all brand new rock, with mesh tape in the factories and paper everywhere else. Thought the durabond was considered "higher quality" as a base. Interesting points you bring up.
When I was listening to the cartoon music playing while you were doing the fast forward part it made me think of Mr Roger’s Neighborhood and there was an episode where he used a hammer and tools. So I made an appropriate intro for your show. I probably can’t post it as RU-vid will block links but I will add it as a comment to this post. Probably only you will get to see it but it’s worth a laugh. :)
Not sure if available in your area, but we use a product at work called Fiba Fuse! It’s a super thin easy to use fiber glass tape. It has been proven way stronger on patches and Butt seams than any other tape. It coats in 2 coats if you know what your doing. You can bed it in dura bond or any variation of lightweight, mid weight, or all purpose mud! We normally use No Coat on out side corners, paper at factories and inside corners and Fiba fuse on patches and butts. There’s 20 plus of us doing it every day with no call backs for 2 years running. Try it out!
He's used Fiba Fuse in other videos. I know he doesn't like it because of the fiberglass. Has to wear gloves or he breaks out. But he has demonstrated it a few times before. Think there might even be some in this reno. Way early on.
What amazed me is how much faster he was able to work at the end when he stopped talking. He was like 10 times the speed, like in those old silent movies. I've never seen anyone work that fast!
The 'mud first' is an old timey idea. It was the way to use mesh before the self-adhesive stuff. Construction wise it makes no difference but self-adhesive mesh tape is just cleaner to work with.
Great video. I've got to switch to the hawk & trowel. The biomechanics of my bread pan kill my wrist & the hawk looks like it cleans easier than the corners of my bread pan.
I completely renovated my house about 28 years ago, I used paper tape in the corners and fibertape on all the flat joints. I gave the joints a coat of a mud/plaster of paris mix to embed the mesh, and not one has failed. The mixture dries much harder than regular mud, gives you about 6 or 7 minutes to smooth out any rough spots as it’s setting, and depending how much plaster you put in, it can set in a few minutes to about an hour. I use this method because I don’t want to have a bag of 5 minute, 20 minute, 45 minute, durabond and regular mud kicking around.
I use mesh a lot because it allows the mud to squeeze into any gaps which seems it would be stronger. I did notice that the tape will move easily when covered with mud, so I am careful to have a reasonable amount of mud on it before scraping so I don't catch it.
Dude, always a fan of your vids. I have been filling, taping and skimming all the way through with durabond… I am trying to eliminate sanding from my life, but have found that I can sand out durabond if I missed a spot floating the final coat. Is there any reason I SHOULDN’T be doing this? I realize it may not be for everybody but it has been working well for me… have I been hanging out with Kirk g too much?? 😂
I actually quit using mesh tape. I use either paper tape for inside corners and I use FibaFuse tape for literally everything else lol I've come to really like the Fibafuse. It soaks up the mud and makes a very strong joint.
@@kmonnier I agree. The only thing that sucks is if you don't wear gloves you'll get itchy, but other than that, it's the best performing tape I've found thus far. Mesh tape is okay for patching a hole, but that's about it for me, everything can be accomplished with the Fibafuse.
I have only used fibafuse a few times, but really didnt like it much. Might be strong joint, but hated the fiberglass itch. Plus the mix i used with it was really hard to sand.
@@srharris88 i use it atleast once a week, you have to wear gloves, that's a must. what compound are you using? ever hot mud I've used sanded no problem.
Been finishing for over 20 years...I use different procedures depending on a lot if different factors...mainly the software the job to cut down on the number of trips there
While a lot of people say you can't use hot mud with paper tape, Interior Vids on youtube did a test with paper tape and Pro Set 90 and it held up better than with taping mud iirc. Perhaps when you have time you can do a similar test to confirm?
Hello, I see that u have an area of electrical wires. Do u ever create a panel to house those wires? I'm kinda in that situation right now but mine is for plumbing. I'm currently patching up about 8 holes (guided through your videos) my plaster/drywall (drywall is over plaster) and it would be interesting to know how to make a panel. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR VIDEOS.
Try Prefilling all joints and corners with easysand , paper tape all joints and corners with regular mud then easysand over the top, second coat easysand finish coat and cleanup corners with joint compound. Works great with the faster setting bags ie. 20 min 45 min or 5 min if you dare lol
Umm durabond is definitely able to be sanded and scraped. Most of the time though I just scrape it the day I apply it before it completely cures. It may be set but it definitely stands and scrapes not as easy as plus 3 or any easy sand obviously but it’s fairly easy. It’s like the difference between the easy sand and plus 3 you better hope you have a few coats of plus 3 on top of an easy sand if you want to sand it and not have any flashing. Lastly if you have too much water in your durabond it’s proven to have adhesion problems after setting/curing so really watch that mix Vancouver! Lol love your videos
Hy Ben ! i sugest you something ! Prewet your drywall first and use more thik material ! You will need less coats ! And more time for sketboarding !Have fun !
Never used fast setting mud with the tape always the general purpose never had any issues. I'm only fixing small holes or cuts to open wall to run wires or plumbing. What worries me mess up and can't sand it and start over have to cut out a bigger hole around it.
Well done with the tutorial sir.. Qs.For torn mosquito net patching, can air still flow through sticky fiber glass mesh tape or is it fully blocked by a transparent adhesive layer in the tape?
You should only use mesh tape if your fixing a small patch - like a 6-8" square hole patch. Even then, if you have paper tape, you should use that instead. If you have a joint or linear run, then you should ALWAYS use paper tape. NEVER EVER use Mesh tape for long linear joints! It is more prone to cracking. Prefill any gaps larger than 1/8" with Quickset / Hot Mud. Always use 20min hot mud (EZ-Sand 20). If you need more working time, use 45 or 90min hot mud. The secret is mix your hot mud extra RUNNY and use COLD water (Hot/warm water will make the mud set faster) so the paper absorbs some of that moisture and gets a good seal.
Only time I use mesh is on shower flanges, I stick it directly to the flange to keep the durabond from squeezing through the flange and the drywall, then paper tape over that with more durabond. Call me Teflon (PTFE, Paper Tape For Everything) 😁
I think you're awesome. I've taken some things that I use everyday. My question is, if the wall will be covered by cabinets why do anything at all regardless using mesh or paper tape? Just wondering
You see the sort of "V-Groove" shape from the plasterboards on the sides? When you cut a plasterboard, add this kind of "V-groove" so more mud can fill in 😉
We used paper tape when doing remodel on our house and it puckered everywhere. My brother did most of it and while he had little to no experience, (he has no work during the winter months and needed money) I don’t blame him. I tore the paper tape off almost everywhere after I started seeing the puckering with almost no resistance and have replaced with mesh which will not leave as nice a finish, but I see no other choice. I do know that I hate drywall finishing. Really, really hate it. I’m a nurse and would rather administer 10 soap suds enemas daily than finish drywall.
