Here's the list of motor oils reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you! Mobil Delvac: amzn.to/44Huvkm Rotella T6: amzn.to/3K7VmMI Royal Purple: amzn.to/44LrzTB Schaeffer’s: amzn.to/4bDNbn9 Hot Shot’s: amzn.to/4dJMKJS Amsoil: Available at the online Amsoil store
I have a challenge for you 12 car batterys how longbwould it take one simple altinator to charge them and would they last a full day running a heater blower motor from a house furnace and use voltage reducer like light dimmer to slow lower juice to fan
Nice comparison- one thing is the Mobil product was a synthetic blend product. To do an actual comparison against its competitors would be the delvac extreme,which I believe used to be Mobil 1 diesel. The Mobil extreme has upwards of 40% more additives and anti oxidation capabilities of the 1300.
Our whole semi fleet switched to amsoil and we've seen 30% less repairs with millions of miles tested. Use to run rotella like every shop but the results have been speaking for themselves. Great channel!
@hkfan4596 we send oil samples in ever 10k miles I can assure you it's the amsoil when we couldn't get it for a little bit during covid shortages we ran rotella and ever oil sample showed higher wear materials from bearings. The valvoline blue actually performed better than rotella. When we first switched we did half our fleet to see if cost difference was worth it in our trucks on rotella engines laster around 500 to 550k miles. Amsoil constantly hit 900k and above which is good for heavy haulers
Shell Rotella only in this household. Two Kenworths, three John Deere field tractors, two Kubota tractors, three diesel pickups. All run this oil for years with no problems. Change any oil when you should and there will be no problems. We always change before the recommended time interval.
Everything in my arsenal of vehicles and engines is running 5w40 t6. 140k miles of use in my supercharged civic, and so far 50k miles in my f150 with the 2.7. My lawn equipment gets t4.
I also don't have any diesel engines, yet I use heavy duty diesel engine oils in my petrol generator and my electric air compressor (also recommend multigrade 15w40 as mentioned in it's manual)
Not just diesel, I started putting diesel oil into my gas engines 20 years ago when they started taking zinc out of engine oils. It’s kept all my old flat tappet (pre 1988ish) engines alive.
@@ThirteenTwentyRepair Yeah. Years ago I did some general farm work. Rotella not only went into the semis and big tractors but also into atv’s, mowers, welders, generators.
Rotella's price to performance ratio is why it's so common in fleet applications. It's not the best, but it keeps costs low in an environment with controlled service intervals. Consistent, regular oil changes are more beneficial than any additive package that exceeds OEM requirements!
in fleet operations you should totally be using amsoil or pennzoil ultra prem. Those vehicles are run HARD and seriously need that oil protection. Now if it's fleet as in car dealership sitting on the lot then obviously it's barely run at all and you can get away with anything
@@jason200912 Go work in a large corporate fleet management facility that oversees thousands of vehicles. Paying 3-4x as much at each oil change, versus the average vehicle lifespan and average repair costs over the life of the vehicle, there is absolutely no financial incentive to spend that much on oil. Factor in vehicle depreciation into this equation, and it makes even less sense. Any oil that meets manufacturer specifications is more than enough for fleet, even in a severe duty application. Oil analysis is common with large, internally-managed fleets, but only to either confirm current service intervals, or to determine if modification is required or financially beneficial.
They're oil is impressive but try their grease, best stuff I have ever seen in my Heavy Equipment Operation/Ownership life. I knew Shaeffers would be up towards the top once I first saw it in this test.
To my knowledge, the product viscosities are approximate. For example, brand A may be thicker than brand B, but would still fall in the same viscosity rating range, such as 5w30, etc...
THE missing variable THE MOTOR! Lets using cooking oil and on bike bearing and expect results? This guy does not understand anything about cars. TO test oil it must BE IN A MOTOR!
The Shell Rotella T6 has been a common oil used in the motorcycle racing community for decades. Sportbikes (Except for some Ducati's) have a wet clutch. The transmission and engine are within the same cases and share the same oil. Motorcycle specific oil can be VERY expensive so some of us started using T6 around the year 2000. As your tests show, it contains 0 Molybdenum. Thats what makes it safe for a wet clutch. Racers also change the oil often. Usually every weekend if not more so the cost savings can be significant. My own experience is over 25,000 miles each on two Yamaha R1's with no engine, transmission, or clutch issues.
What year is your R1? I have a 99 that I run 15w 40 T4 in for the last 10 years or so and I love it. I don't know if it's all in my head but the transmission seems to like T4 better than T6 even though I want it to like the synthetic better. I tried Delvac 5w40 full synthetic 20 years ago and it hated it. 55K miles now on the original clutch so I love Rotella.
It's not in your head. Reviews show that many users find better shifting with the T4 over the T6. Either one is a great oil. What people don't know is Shell changed the formulation on the T4, Though not listed on the bottle it is now semi-synthetic and states it on their website.
Would be nice to see you test multimeters, checking voltage, amperage, and resistance accuracy, seeing if the cheap $50 multimeters are as good as the more expensive ones
I've got two meters I built in highschool, one analog and a digital. 40 years later, they both still work like new, they don't look as good, I still use them today.
@@vivillager people definitely runs oils too long and then blame them when something goes wrong, running rotella and changing it in a timely manner is the key. I just changed the oil on my tundra yesterday, I had amsoil signature in, it had about 11,000 miles on it. It looked brand new, almost felt bad disposing of it haha. There’s no doubt amsoil is top tier but man the price is hard to swallow.
I'm 61 years old, and since I was able to use all in all of our equipment it's been nothing but Rotella. I have rebuilt my John Deere dozer engine which had close to 9000 hours on it and it still looked good on the bottom end, not to mention all of our logging skidders they get the piss used out of them and never had any problems out of Rotella
I use Rotella in everything including my atvs,dirt bikes,Harley and Suki street bikes,pickups,zero turn,push mower,etc and I've never had any bearing,buildup or wear issues in any of them,nor in any of my big trucks throughout the decades... I swear by Rotella and won't use anything else anymore...
there is a lot that goes into great engine life. i use rotella t6 change it every 5 thousand miles, good quality oilt filter and keep the air filter changed regularly. the results have been great especially when considering i have save hundreds of dollars over the years one the price of oil.
Canadian here. The cold flow with the Hot Shots was WILD! Thats a game changer for winter diesel starts, especially in Powerstrokes with HEUI injectors that need oil pressure to start.
Thanks Project Farm for such a great video once again. This confirmed my choice of Schaeffer's for my 7.3L. Been using it for 4 years with great results!
I started out my working career as a diesel mechanic. My boss swore by shell rotella T before most of those others even existed. He showed me the difference on engine teardown. Shell engines were clean inside. The Delo engines had a thick sludge layer that had to be cleaned off. On cars it was the pennsoil that left the worst sludge behind.
Been using rotella t6 in all of my diesel trucks. 02 f350 7.3l powerstroke zf6. 246k miles. 03 ram 2500 5.9l cummins 48re 242k miles 05 f650 6.0l Eaton Fuller 5 speed. 96k miles. 07.5 ram 3500 DRW 6.7l cummins g56. 143k miles 08 f750 6.7l cummins Alison auto. 104k miles. All of them (even the 6.0) are on the original block, zero blow by, healthy compression, and have never been rebuilt. I own a tree service, so they get worked hard daily hauling wood, machinery, chips etc. Sure, other oils may be better in certain categories, but for the price, in my opinion it can't be beat. I used to have a 93 ram w350 dually on a 5 speed. I bought it with 380k on the clock. I knew the original owner. He told me he only used t6, so I kept with it. Over the next 10 years it earned another 300k miles. I sold it just shy of 700k on it. Original rings, pistons and block. It had a different head. But I was pleased to see that it needed no cylinder work when I pulled the head to replace it. T6 has proven itself to me. I'll probably never use anything different. Especially when the better performers are 2x more expensive. I do use the hot shots secret diamond g56 oil in my 07.5 6 speed ram dually. Fantastic stuff. Excellent review and video as always, Todd. Thank you for all you do.
I packed Schaeffers aerosol products back in the 1980-1990's. The head chemist was Mike Ryterski. Guy was a genius. So many different products, all top notice and a hometown company. He always put the good stuff in his products. Their compressor oil dropped our rotary screw temp by 20'F. Most unusual product was a zinc bearing goo used on huge dredging machines. 1 can to a wheel. Offset wheel device would run on a rail track, pick the whole machine up and move it 8 to 10 feet. Extreme Pressure!
Schaeffers is king. I gave it a shot about 10 yrs ago on my concrete pump and it reduced my hydraulic fluid temps constantly 20+ degrees, same thing when I put it in my truck, i than got into it and started doing oil analysis, different tests, etc. schaeffers is king, with the addative moly in it, the longer u run Schaefer’s the more the molly coats everything and is a game changer when it comes to cold starts. When I went to Schaefer’s in my Allison trans it reduced my max temp i would typically see at the track where I’m really workin it, 25-30 degrees and I’m not exaggerating even a lil bit
Every video I watch from you on every Sunday at the end of the video I always tell myself "and today I got this much smarter" and it's true because you teach us so many things with bad products and good products with no bias remarks. The best RU-vid testing channel I ever watched so glad to watch every video you make❤
1:41 Thanks for emphasizing that -40 degrees does not need a descriptor, as it's where both Fahrenheit and Celsius scales converge. Another great video as always.
I used to use rotella t4. My friend uses delvac. Neither of us has had any issues. We ran 12,000 mile intervals in our Detroits. No problem with either. Great video!
Schaeffer's did a customer testimony video of their oil. It was Urfer trucking company 30k oil change intervals on a 3406 cat engine. They broke the engine down at a million miles and it was spotless, still like new.
Another great unbiased review that we can trust. Most oil reviews are sponsored and they are biased to their oil. Thanks for doing these reviews and keep them coming please.
Yeah lets trust a test that never uses an actual motor. THis is like using motor oil on a bike chain and expecting results.... its ENGINE OIL NOT BEARING GREASE OR LUBE!
@@salman13 Liquimoly is a German brand oil made in Germany. These are all US oil brands made in the US. He's testing domestic brands that are readily available on shelf. While I have seen Liquimoly additive sold in parts stores none of them sell the oil.
I have been using Mobile Delvac for years and years. Never a problem. And I run T-6 in the winter when temps are going to be Sub-Zero. I learned that from your previous video, a few years ago.
Do I own a diesel? Nope. Do I plan on owning one? Nope. Did I watch the whole video? Yep. All your videos are so well done and very informative! Thanks for your work.
My 2011 BMW diesel M57 is the most efficient motor I own next to my Honda B-series. I make over 300 HP and 487 torque. I’ve driven 392 miles and still have half a tank of gas leftover. I have had no major problems since ownership to this day. Knock on wood. I was at one point also deterred by diesels before owning one
I've asked you to test motor oils for air cooled V-Twin motorcycle engines, for a couple of years now. I ask because no-one has done it, to my knowledge. You'd be the first, truly independent test, ever done. You have no idea how highly debated this subject is in the Harley community. PLEASE test these. Especially Amsoil V-Twin 20w-50, Mobil 1 V-twin 20w-50, Royal Purple, Screaming Eagle, Redline and anything else you can think of. I promise you, this would be a hit! Thank you for doing these tests. I do base a lot of my purchases on your recommendations.
I live in cold cold Canada. I buy the cheapest oil on sale at the time I don't use a certain brand I just use the cheapest oil. I've done this for 42 years. I change my oil religiously and I've never had a problem. The important thing is to just change your oil and to never push it to far.
i live in a moderate climate in Europe and i've been doing the same for 40 years too; in my cars i always use the cheapest OIL i can find; i'm a mechanic
I live in the very moderate UK, drive low-performance cars and don't usually drive them hard. I use cheap oil and never change it (after buying the car - used - because I don't know what was in there). I do change the oil filter frequently, though. I have never had a problem attributable to oil troubles, but who knows what other cars and driving styles might show? PF's tests do indicate that even the cheap oils provide decent baseline performance, anyway.
Some of the best RU-vid content out there, IMO - robust testing, does exactly what they set out to do and communicates conclusions well to the audience. Super stuff!
Video Idea: testing Rotella T4, T5, T6 just to see how the same brand stacks against each other. As long as ICE engines are still around, we can't wait to see ANY if your oil testing. Amazing presentation as always ! 💯
Agreed. I like Rotella but I'm also on the fence with T4,5, and 6. I know T4 is great for flat tappet engines but I've heard inconsistent reports on the T6
_"Jack of all trades, master of none. Offtimes better than a master of one."_ So many people forget the second half & reverse the intent of the saying.
T6 is top notch quality oil for half the price of other oils.. youll be fine with any of these oils as long as you change the oil on time every time... I will never change oils ..T6 all the way for the price and quality it has no competition @@thegarbagegladiators4735
Yeah same here, I've used T4 with outstanding results for years, especially on my wallet. Would love to see how it stacks up in lab testing. Engine results have been near perfect.
@ProjectFarm specifically an anti foaming test would be cool. I've heard although these are wet clutch certified, they don't stand up to the revs as well.
Same here. I running T6 in my bike currently. I’d like to keep running it but I’d also like to see how it compares to a full synthetic oils that are manufactured specifically for motorcycle use. I change the oil in my bike every 2,500 miles anyway. So I’m probably fine no matter what I use.
I never realized they started putting motorcycle pics on the Rotella. We've been using it for years in bikes. They finally caught on and promote it now.
Your wear test apparatus was elegant in its simplicity. As well, inclusion of lab analyses gives greater insight into brand differences. Keep up the good work!
TODD YOU HEARD AND ANSWERED MY PRAYERS!!!!!!! No seriously thank you so much man you are my FAVORITE youtuber by far and I look forward to your videos every Sunday!! Ive been requesting this one for years it feels like! I am so excited. Thank you @Project Farm
I know Delvac didn't finish all that well against the other brands, but I've had really good luck with it. Been driving a truck for 25+ years and have used nothing but Mobil Delvac. Never had an oil related failure.
That just means regular maintenance will benefit you no matter what oil you use. Using better oil will ultimately do even better and most likely give you more engine life long term. I personally use amsoil in everything, it is a little pricey but I have seen proof personally that it performs better.
Thank you for this video, I was hoping you would do a comparison like this years ago! I had a 2018 RAM 5500, and put about 365,000 miles on it before I switched to a 2022 Kenworth. I tried the Shell Rotella T6, Schaeffers, Amsoil 6x Signature, and the Hot Shot Secret Blue Diamond oils. I send an oil sample to Blackstone every oil change. The Hot Shot Secret performs the best out of the oils I have tried in your test comparison. I figured all of this out with the RAM, I broke in the Kenworth with the Shell Rotella T6, while doing short oil change intervals during the first few thousand miles. Then I switched over to Hot Shot Secret after about 15,000 miles. Hot Shot Secret isn’t cheap, but the data from Blackstone shows it performs the best overall. Since my livelihood depends on my truck, I only want the best oil in my truck! I’m not surprised that Hot Shot Secret flows the best in cold temperatures, as both the RAM and Kenworth start right up and run smooth in below zero temperatures using that oil! Thank you again for this comparison, so many people will find this information very valuable!!!
@rowmacg I use hot shots as well could believe the difference when I made the switch . Only oil I use now in had my 2019 Mack Anthem go 500,000.miles no engine issues at all before I got the new truck and I unload with a PTO. But don’t remember my engine hours .2023 Mack MP7 Anthem .2011 GMC 5.3 1500 and wife’s 2011 Hyundai Sonata all hot use Hot Shots engine and Tranny Fulids
Glad to hear you’re using Hot Shot Secret in your Mack with good results as well! The most noticeable difference in the Kenworth with the PX7, same block as the Cummins ISB 6.7, is the air compressor is only half as loud as it was with the factory Delo oil or Shell Rotella! The air compressor in these engines is quite loud, but the Hot Shot Secret has made not so embarrassing anymore lol. I noticed in the comments that so many people have been using some of these diesel oils in their gasoline engines, that’s something I don’t know much about? Personally I would be afraid to do that, but it’s just a matter of educating myself and experience. Anyway I just bought a 2024 Ford Maverick hybrid, and I bought Valvoline specialty hybrid oil just for it, since it’s formulated for the unique operating conditions of a hybrid engine. I’m looking forward to the first oil change on the Maverick!
@@rowmacgglad to know that it helps quite down the air compressor. Yes I use Hot Shots Blue Diamond 5w40 Diesel oil in my 2011 GMC 5.3L I just switched from there Euro 5w30 and 5w40 just because I wanted the extra additives that are Diesel Oils to help with the famous LIFTER Failures in the LS Engines For the years of the Active Fuel Management but calling placebo effect to me but makes me feel good I also use there gear oils and transmission fluid. I use Valvoline products in the pass with good success and is my backup oil or Chevron Delo Oils. But every once had there own choice it’s there money spend it how they want. Have a great one sir.
I love how your videos are thorough, objective, and fair for each test you do! Thank you for your contributions to this platform and to all of your everyday views.
I run T6 in all my ram 2500's and have had great results. 3 trucks with over 700k miles and still going strong! I do ad 1 quart of Marvel and 1 quart of Lucas each oil change though.... Maybe I will try Amsoil to see what happens now. Thanks for everything you do!!!! So much unbiased info and entertaining to watch!!
@Avies48 The Lucas helps with longevity of the oil, and the MMO I swear makes the oil temp a couple degrees cooler. My trucks tow from 3k lbs to 16k lbs constantly, and still run perfect!
Very impressive test. Well worth watching. I drove a fuel transport for 20 years. The oil company I worked for sold many different types of engine oil. Including most of what was tested. We were a Schaffer oil distributor for 70 years. That was the oil we used in all our trucks. I watched a teardown of a Detroit 60 after 1 million miles. Very impressive results.
absolutely breath taking comparison. its exactly what my brain wanted, organized in the perfect way. simple. effective. those 3.3m followers are well earned sir
Good to see none of these products were outright failures; the Mobil might leave something to be desired but would probably perform just fine in normal duty operations. Rotella looks like my all-around choice (it already was my recommendation before), while Amsoil seems the best for extreme duty/high heat environments.
I think really any of these oils will work great... if going with the Mobile just might have to change oil a little sooner with the smaller additive package in it. Have used Mobile quite a bit in the past and has worked great.
All of your videos are so amazing. I've shown so many of my family and friends your videos. They are so well made and informative. Thank you so much for all that you do
Someone mentioned your channel on another video, so I decided to come take a look... This is exactly the type of content my ADHD/Autism needed. You have a new subscriber!
@@ProjectFarmDo this again and add a Warren product like Kirkland Conventional 15w40 or Lubrigard(warren) Full Synth 5w40. Both are by far the cheapest priced. We have 100 10 wheel dumps running Lubrigard, both conventional and Synth depending on the season.
This is one of my favorite channels. Ran into an issue I’ve always heard of, but just experiencing. My tractor was loosing power and I found slime in my diesel fuel filter, which is called algae by most. Only treatment available nearby was Power Service Biocide. Also had to buy Power Service Clear Diesel to clean the tank. I know there are cheaper options that do both and thought maybe you could test different brands. Thanks for the reviews!
I ran Royal Purple for 600k miles in a 2017 6.7L Ram and was VERY pleased. I got 400k out of injectors that were still working but running a bit rough. The HUGE benefit was when I opened for the injector change there was ZERO carbon and sludge. The 2 old school mechanics there were amazed at how clean that motor was. Also to note was that my oil pressure was virtually the same as the day it started. After trading that one in for a 2023 I continued with Royal Purple. I do not mess around and when its time to change I do it. Also relied on Wix XP filters too. There was an Engine Masters show that tested a lot of the filters and the Wix XP came out on top there. I rarely run over a few hundred miles after the change light comes on. If you want your motor to last MAINTAIN IT!
As an independent mobile heavy equipment mechanic, my 2014 power stroke service truck has over 300,000 miles, with thousands of extra hours of idle time on it. I change oil every 30 days regardless of mileage and fuel filters every other oil change. I use conventional Rotella T4 15W40. Because of the grotesque torture I put my truck through on nasty job sites, my theory is that more frequent oil changes with cheap oil is less damaging than extended oil change intervals with expensive oil, and I've got the high mileage truck to verify that. If you use your diesel intermittently, or run it in dirty environments, or put on tons of idle time, your oil is going to be contaminated with some combination of soot, water, fuel and dirt. Under those circumstances, your engine is not going to care how much you spent on the oil...you have to change it, often. If on the other hand, your running your truck as a hotshot, with tens of thousands of freeway miles every year, you should get the best oil that money can buy and extend that interval out as far as you can. It really all depends on what you're doing with your diesel, in my opinion. Incidentally, if you bought a diesel truck to commute 20 minutes to work and back, haul a bag of groceries on the weekend, and tow your camper once a year, sell it. You don't have any business owning a diesel truck. 🤣🤣🤣
I don't tow jack with my 17 chevy duramax! I just wanted to own a truck that has a better resale value if I decide to sell than a half ton gasser and wanted a truck that would last twice as long as a half ton gasser ! My money my investment! Arrogant tow douches should stop wasting there cry baby opions on guys who don't tow! Our money our problems not yours!
I'm not really following your logic, especially since you claim you're a mechanic and should have a better understanding of stress put on an engine. You claim that freeway haulers should invest in full synthetic? Freeway miles are proven to be the least demanding on an engine. If you need proof of that, just look at the difference between freeway fuel efficiency vs. surface street fuel efficiency. It makes more sense for highway cruisers to use conventional given the lack of stress from freeway miles. The "torture" you put yours through of idling and driving to an from and around job sites would be much much more logical application of synthetic oil, because despite your claim, your engine will absolutely perform better AND you will definitely have a higher degree of protection with a synthetic oil in a higher stress operating environment. Rotella T6 current price is an extra $6 per gallon (on Amazon anyway) which is something like an extra $24 per oil change (assuming your power stroke has a 15 qt. capacity). Further more it's a business expense for you, so it's tax deductible. All of that said, given your application there is absolutely no reason you should be cheaping out on oil for your truck.
@@SirPhilMcCrackinVonBeggington Don't disagree with a single thing you said, however, I think you may have missed the point. The kind of operating I do literally contaminates oil very quickly. I do super frequent oil changes to keep that contamination out of my engine. If I were rich, and cost were no factor, of course I'd put something much more expensive in there. Bottom line is this. Clean, cheap oil protects better than contaminated expensive oil. I've owned 3 separate Power stroke trucks over the last several years and got the same results every time. No engine repairs needed...at all.
Great testing. I used Rotella for many years in a '99 ford 7.3 Powerstroke. I recently changed to Amsoil. The engine runs better and is quieter. I'm going to continue with the Amsoil.
I’ve been running the Mobil in my early 99 7.3 that I bought brand new for about 17 years, since Rotella reformulated in 2007(ish). It has around 400,000 miles currently but I’m thinking of switching oil now.
Glad you chose this topic, I put Shell rotella in a jeep w/a amc 258ci, straight six. It is a gas engine but with super long stroke like a diesel. It normally calls for 10/40, so I hope it was a good choice
Shell rotella is one of the best. All of my old tractors, trucks and equipment get rotella 15-40. It’s affordable and works great. Rotella t4 also has all the additives necessary for older engines.
I bought a pail of T6 after it tested well in previous videos. It’s readily available and inexpensive where I live. I also live where it routinely gets to -40. At the price, it’s easy to increase the oil replacement schedule to keep the oil at its best.
I've been doing the same thing in my '98 grand Cherokee 4.0 for 8 years. I live in the North East, so we get temperature ranges from single digits, to over 100 degrees. Run it all year round. The old Mercedes straight six gas engine's, called for 15-40 from the factory.
I do the same with my '86 AMC Eagle with the 258ci as well as my '87 F-150 351w. Pretty much anything older with flat tappet cams have to have the extra additives.
I’m using Shell Rotella T6 5w-40* In my 2000 Cherokee 4 liter solely because of the higher ZDDP, around 1000 ppm, because the engine has flat tappet lifters. I think a comparison of oils such as these with around 1000-1200 ppm ZDDP should be tested, just not diesel engine oil. Such as the Driven brand.
Your not screwing up your engine with T6, as long as you're changing it when you should! It meets the motorcycle wet clutch certification, and it's good oil for a fraction of the cost of Yama/Honda/Kawi oil. I know it's not quite the same, but there's truckers with 2million miles that swear by the stuff. I don't recommend you go cheaper (like T4/T5) as they're not full-synthetic like T6.
Thank you so much for all of your hard work and honest tests. I bought a new vacuum this week based on your data. Would love to see you test grill thermometers!
Amsoil only for my 22 F450. Yes it’s expensive but worth it, especially with a bypass filter and 10k oil changes that could be taken farther with analysis. Also use 5W-40 so the cold flow difference is no issue. Have tried a couple other expensive brands and Amsoil definitely makes the engine the quietest. As long as I can afford it, I’ll never switch. Just my 2 cents of course. 🤷🏼♂️
Only 5 comments down and I found an amsoil cultist. The oil is decent, sure. But it's extremely overpriced. Regular oil changes are the key, not spending the most money on the highest priced oil on the market. That's like saying a $10 tube of toothpaste is better than a $1.99--the important thing is brushing your teeth regularly, not paying for the most expensive toothpaste.
@@SirPhilMcCrackinVonBeggington Words of common sense that everyone knows. You’ve demonstrated nor explained anything new or worthwhile. Whether you want to believe it or not, sometimes things in life that cost more ARE better and I couldn’t care less if you want to use gas station oil or not. I’ve done my own testing and analysis for myself and choose to buy Amsoil. Buy what you want and don’t put others down because you buy cheaper stuff. Makes you look a bit uneducated and simple minded.
@@SirPhilMcCrackinVonBeggington Another typical keyboard warrior trying to make yourself feel better and worth something. Carry on pal, nobody cares. Good luck 👍🏻
@@jeffreycattelino3996 they claim really long oil change intervals I hope project farm tests that one day. I'm sticking to penzoil platinum for more frequent changes
The Motor Oil Geek YT Channel has in depth and scientific based knowledge of a variety of engine oils. He’s a wealth of knowledge and experience. Great post!
As always, I’m a huge fan of your channel and you did a great job on this video. The videos are always straightforward and informative. I had a couple video suggestions I’d like to make. -First, a diesel fuel additive video specifically testing lubricity. Older diesels, prior to ultra low sulfur diesel, generally require better lubrication than what ULSD can provide. Older farm equipment, semi trucks and other commercial trucks, and early pickup trucks that have diesel engines all need better fuel lubrication for their injector pumps and fuel systems. Obviously there are a lot of off the shelf additives as well as guys mixing in automatic transmission fluid, 2 stroke oil, new/unused engine oil, even waste oils such as used engine oils/ATF, used frier oil (vegetable oils), etc. In your past fuel tests I believe you’ve done diesel anti gel testing that included a lubricity test. These older diesels are still quite popular due to lack of emissions and their cost and simplicity. I’d love to see some content that could help shed light on the best fuel lubricant. -Second suggestion is testing the older version of Shell Rotella. I have a new unopened gallon of Rotella from (I think) 2006. The label is reminiscent of modern T4, but just says “Rotella”. I’m guessing this was before they had T4/T5/T6. I could be wrong on that, but I would love to know how it compares to modern Rotella. Maybe it’s the exact same formula as modern T4, or maybe it’s undergone some changes. Either way, if you are interested I would be happy to ship it to you if you’d like to use it for testing. My neighbor had it from years ago when he had a diesel truck and gave it to me about a year ago. I still have it in my garage and as far as I can tell it has never been opened.
One other thing I’ll add on the fuel lubricity test idea…. I have heard that kerosine can power a diesel engine, but lacks the lubricant of diesel fuel. It would be interesting to see how kerosine compares to treated and untreated diesel fuel in that respect!
Do a presidential candidate comparison, please. I know this sounds like a joke, but people voting for politicians they don’t know the track records of is only funny because it’s so sad. And most everyone is planning to vote for the two proven to be the most unfit for the job. You have a knack for educating and staying unbiased which is next to impossible to find these days
Been running only Shell Rotella T6 in a Toyota 3.3L V6 for over 225k miles with 5k oil change intervals. Also, been running it in a Kawasaki Versys 650 with over 50k miles 5k oil change intervals. Always using the OEM oil filters. No issues. Even looks pretty clean when draining it out after 5k miles on both vehicles. Neither vehicle burns a drop of oil in between changes either.
Switched from rotella to Schaeffers and noticed a difference almost immediately in my diesel. Started to use Schaeffers in our gas vehicles and same. Nothing but positive results
I been a diesel mechanic for 45 years. Mobil constantly out preforms Rotella . Much less bearing wear, rocker arm wear and and carbon deposits on the piston ring land area. Much,much cleaner too. I would not put Rottela in my lawn mower. They advertise good though.
