How Big and how Fast can this print!? - NEW Affordable LONGER LK5 3D printer - full review 

These failures are caused by the material cooling down before it's properly fused with the underlying layers. This can be caused by too low ambient temperature, draft, or your cooling fan running to high. Lower your part cooling fan setting or put a box around your printer to provide a more stable ambient temperature. Also moist filament can cause issues, so I recommend buying or building a filament dryer.

How do you think about the Ender 5 plus? Better or same like the longer?

So you're saying the filament head doesn't get hot enough therefore it was a weak vessel? Is this what caused the failure? Look forward to hearing from you. Bye for now, Ken

I have one and love it. It is an older one with the single blower, but works enough. I did have issues with the stock merlin software, but I upgraded to klipper and it is a beast. Not only that, I can reliability print ABS at 248 with a 90 degree bed and glue. Works excellent, just keep the speed down to 30/40.

I am impressed with this machine. I am also agreeing with you that "negative" reviews should be done. Whenever I make a decision to buy equipment like this, I try to find out as much as I can, both positive and negative reviews. Keep coming with the things you find, positives and negatives.

Vase pronounced Varse - you're not American! BLOODY HELL! Leave them to butcher the language. Nice looking machine- How much.

Most of the time I print with 1mm and 1,2mm nozzle and had the same problems. Had to reduce the speed, the pla just wasn't melting right. bougt a cheap Chinese volcano Heatblock for 3€. Problem solved.

This thing has no ABL with a bed size this big, no direct drive, a ptfe hotend etc. There is no reason I can see to buy this over a Sovol SV03 or one of the bigger Neptune 3 Pro derivatives.

So expect to waste lots of filament learning how to use one. Pellet printers should be cheaper to run once they get a bit cheaper.

My first printer was a FLSUN Delta printer and I wanted a cartesian printer to do comparisons. I spent hours shopping and comparing and I chose the Longer LK5 based on its very low price and its print volume. I really liked the support braces and that swayed me to purchase it. It has been an excellent value and possibly my best and most refined printer. I have other Core XY and Delta printers now, but this Longer is the standard I use to compare what a proper 3D printer should be. It is most definitely the best for the money and who wants to have an Ender, when everyone else has the same thing?

Another thing about 3D printed parts on a printer is that they need to take the top temp of the print without weakening or getting soft.

Printing using 1mm nozzle may cause problems if you print fast as your nozzle may not have enough heating power to properly heat the filament before it's pushed out. You'll have to slow down a bit if this is the case which would negate the faster speed. Bigger isn't usually faster after a certain nozzle diameter.

I love my longer lk5 pro you can make full helmets on it

Great video! I have the same printer and love it. I didn't know anything about 3d printing when I bought it and I'm still learning a lot. I've had good success with the printer, but I'm still learning how to change the settings and how to slice. I was printing a spiral planter, which was is similar to a vase. The bottom of the planter is small and then it gets "big" rather quickly. Once the base was down, I got nothing but stringing! I was using silk PLA and a .04mm nozzle, 130%, 60C bed and the nozzle temp was 200C. The designer told me this: "When you scale the planter make sure that the slicer creates a continuous path around the small wings/ blades of the planter. If the printer has to retract and fill a little gap at every wing it will retract very often and may cause stringing. Also ensure good part cooling with PLA at those overhangs in the beginning. I don't know what he's talking about or how to change the settings he's talking about. Can you PLEASE help??

1. Silks are horrible about poor layer adhesion. All of them. It's just the nature of the additives. 2. You were printing too fast which is why you were under extruding and not cooling the filament efficiently. 3. You bumped up nozzle diameter but tried to print like a .4mm nozzle. Familiarize yourself with the volumetric flow calculators and adjust to keep it under 13mm/s³ for a v6 type hotend. 4. That printer isn't good. Enders are not good. I started with one and they can be decent but not "good". I've got more money in mods to make me Ender decent than I paid for the thing. Not to mention the time spent on hardware and switching to/learning Klipper.

room temp my be put glass box around it keep temp same level.

A very good review. Commenting on videos also helps. Call upon viewers to do so ;)

You have the hands of an 80 year old man, lol.

4:50 Emissivity is probably the cause of the different readings.

You need to do some calibration. Obviously you have bad layer adhesion. Even pla should not shatter that easily.

There is a free version of Fusion 360...

Hey Josh, hope you're well. Checking daily to see if you've posted a new video. Hopefully you'll do a CNC plasma cutter with upgrades video soon. Cheers mate!!

i just got this printer as well, mine came with a giant ass load of issues. the PID wasn't tuned, one of the fans doesn't work, the gantry adjustment stripped the metal with nut loosened and 1 turn, the extruder is doing funky things as well. I have a older longer printer that worked out of the box, these new ones are gutter trash

My bed will no longer heat. The screen now reads "Error code 6 - Bed failed to heat" I checked all end cables and connectors, no luck. Anyone else having this issue...?

Sent my ender 3 v2 back after a month. tried everything with it due to wouldn't stick , printing in wrong place. That stupid cat you get as dem0 print .Could carve it out by hand near enough on how long it takes to print . I may try again with a new 3d printer next year due to the blender software is fun.

Critical filament out firmware problem When the filament runs out the Z topper motor does not recieve holding voltage so you get a drop in Z height while you change the filament. There is absolutely no point in having a filament run out sensor with out making sure the Z axis can hold position for the filament change. This also applies to stopping to change filament color. I message Longer about it and the customer service said they woul forward it to the engineers

My question to these manufacturers is why are you still selling printers with bowden hotends when everyone knows how inferior they are to direct drive extruders? Dont try and say its because of cost because that is a total load of BS!

Just curious, but where could I get the part that the filament sensor screws into? It’s also screwed into the extruder, but I can’t seem to find it. The filament has rubbed down the attachment so much to where the filament isn’t even rubbing on the sensor anymore. To be clear, it’s not the sensor and it’s not the extruder, it is the part that the sensor us screwed into. Thanks

In the States, Amazon has it for $369.99 BUT if you look for it there is a $70 off "coupon". Mine arrives tomorrow so I will be in full learning mode as it is my first one ever.

For some reason on my prints i get like little dots of filament and as the print gets smaller they get more common i use pla on the longer lk5 pro upgraded

Great video! I have the LK5 pro and have printed 100’s of hours without any machine failure. I have a printed a giant 400 mm high Christmas ornament in vase mode. I will always be a fan of Longer machines

Is ventilation a safety issue with these machines or is it ok to do this in your room with a window cracked?

14:20 I have found that every filament needs an e steps calibration on the sxtruder... color and type of material can be different not to mention temp...

11:41 You should use rounded G-commands (for such big diameters), so that those vertical edges (lines) you see aren't visible. E.g. in Cura the Plugin EdgeWelder (or called something similar)

Super Thanks 👍🏻

Seems like a lot of money for really slow printing lol! I built 3x 360mm plate 600mm height Deltas for same price as one of these.... I can't believe even watching a person use paper to level a 3d printer in 2022, I use optical switch auto levelers and that is considered dated even LOL

Just purchased one for $300. Hoping to print Mando parts

I am interested in getting a printer to make positives which I can then cast the negative in metal, any recommendations. I'm looking for good surface finish so that I the cast object won't have a rough surface and I am also mainly interested in casting fairly large objects...any suggestions appreciated

Bought the Longer LK5 Pro 3d printer and it didn't work right out of the box. The Z axis would only go up but not down, wouldn't home and was doing strange things. So, I contacted Longer support to find out that my printer had a bad motherboard. Then they told me they would ship me a new motherboard and to fix it myself. I guess they got the name LONGER for it want work long but takes longer to get it fixed. I wouldn't trust anything with the brand name Longer on it. I have three other 3d printers from three different manufactures and have had no issues. Again, I wouldn't trust anything with the brand name Longer on it.

Sometimes the slightest gust of wind will make a print fail. Doors swinging open, the a/c coming on, breathing wrong. lol

great video thanks, where can I buy in the UK please?

hi mate cracking video..do you know of a CAD type program to write printer programs..im a CNC machinist so would like to write programs on my laptop then transfer to printer..cheers buddy

hi the printer thing you need to check your extruder gear and if the extruder gear is biting into the filament correctly also your layers are not consistent ,check the z couplers for flex also it looks like its a layer adhesion thing so lower your layer height ,a good starting point is half your nozzle diameter also your not supposed to print the calibration cube with infill !!! the calibration cube is supposed to have 0 infill and see if your printer can bridge the top of the cube correctly

super Thanks..

i noticed my prints get bad at the top of the print area i think its because the shell is so thin the jerk can misaligned the nozzle

More heat will make the filament stick together better, also try PLA+, its stronger that PLA.

If you're gonna use a thermal camera stick a piece of electrical tape on the center of the glass panel and it will give you the temperature

Always printed on a fat borosilicate glass plate from the local glassmasters. petg and asa+ i use a wide brim with a 0.3 brim distance for easy peel off. abs i use a raft and a cardboardbox with a fan and outside vent duct. (as hillbilly as it sounds 😅but she works! ) tpu is a breeze like pla and is just a an xx lines of skirt for purge. They all stick like mad! I have to wait till the plate cools off to roomtemp to get them off. but they are all mirror finished firstlayer ;) ppl dont believe me but i dont care about that, all i use is "jif universal" glasscleaner at 55c and wipe with cotton shoptowel. Fresh each time. no reuse. I swear by josef prusa on this. if u dont believe me u can come see for ur self 🙃

My Longer LK5 Pro is a champ with PLA and PLA+ What is the fastest you've printed PETG? Is there anyway to print ASA on these machines? Thanks for the videos.

I like those stabilizer bars on the front. My Artillery II could use a pair of those to stop the wobble at higher print speeds.

So quite unreliable. Does it have an ai module

Recalculate your E-steps since you went with a larger nozzle.

When leveling, for best results and fewer repeats do one diagonal first and then the other diagonal (e.g. front left -> rear right -> front right -> rear left). That's because of how the bed is rocking on diagonals.

I like those stabilizer bars on the front. My Artillery II could use a pair of those to stop the wobble at higher print speeds.

This video was very useful to me. I've been thinking about getting a 3D printer. But after watching this video, I can see that it's just too difficult to mess with. Thanks.

Hey. For 3d I use design spark mechanical. It's very capable, and work in many ways like fusion 360, but it's free. I always wonder why I never hear anyone talk about it

I've been looking at getting a 3D printer for years now but never made the leap. 2 weeks ago a friend gifted me with a very slightly used MP Select Mini V2 that he bought for a video he made for his RU-vid channel. It may be used but only has around 1 hour of use on it so I consider it to be brand new. I'm shocked at how quickly the "bug" has bitten me and now I'm searching for one with a much larger build volume. Videos like this sure are helping me figure out what I really want vs what I really need. The single biggest challenge I've encountered is in figuring out all the jargon used in different design programs. I am NO artist by any means and my brain keeps reverting to my drafting classes back in high school...a LONG time ago...so I've settled on FreeCAD for now. For me, everything I print is utilitarian and I won't ever use it for models or decorative stuff so I think I made the correct choice. But build volume is where I'm running short and this printer seems like it will fit the bill nicely. I suspect the way I will use it wouldn't be affected by the issues you encountered. I really appreciate the "real-world" review shown here and especially the side-by-side comparison to the ender 3.

Seems like the head is installed with some strange angle to x axis....🤔

Good video

I noticed you are in a coat and beeny... Just wondering if the temperature in the shop is too cold for printing. shrinking warping?

resin printers also have layer lines, they can be short but they're still there and visible

4:57 Glass takes LONGER to heat up: BOOM BOOM!! 🦊🦊🦊🦊

I was blown away... And now late for where I should be!

the imperfect vase looks like it could be a lamp shade.

The Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo 3D Printer can be bought for £225 right now. Not sure what ender version you use.

SUPER THANKS!!!

Ya my e3pros looks tiny next to my lk5 pro. I am a ender guy myself I run a 3d printing business. But I am really liking the longer lk5 pro myself. Was easy to assemble although not my first rodeo. My first print was flawless came out great. I also like the bed leveling option super easy. On my ender I run bed level gcode I have to search the SD to find it. Definitely easier having it built in and it works great. I got this printer for 295 US Definitely worth the price.

Hi really interesting Vid…. I have 4 printers but the one I use mostly is the one on my desk It’s a ender 3 prototype which I purchased from Creality before their launch at £60+ 20 import tax Worked well until the bed driver died…. Contacted Creality and thy sent me a new board Now I have had this printer for years with no problem except the ware and tare only extruders And the PTFE Teflon tube that goes hard and brittle The rest still working fine….as I use this commercially that’s not bad going .

I haven’t even started watching this yet (ads playing), and I’m eager with anticipation! I should add, a 3D printer is high on the interest list with teenage design & technology offspring in the household…

Åååå

I use Autodesk 123, what is the exact product model name and where can you get it?

Very nice review and information about this 3 D printer. Very nice job. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.

I print prototype pots for a concrete company on my Sunlu S8 (same print volume) and the average pot dimensions are 600mm dia x 600mm tall. So unfortunately, no vase mode for me because I print the pots in about 12 pieces.

i love my LK5 but its not new, got mine a year ago, bed clips are crap, and bed springs leave a lot to be desired. i replaced bed springs with silicone spacers, and got better bed clips. also ended up adding a second z screw to make it duel. makes a huge change in quality. recently my filiment run out sensor has failed, and i have replaced the hot end as a complete unit and its good as new. not really fast but it does great prints

looking at the color of the print you need to bump up the temp 5 or 10 degrees, you see it is shiny at the bottom but later it gets mat black thats a sign of to cold printing

printing the last vase upside down would have better results

Interesting , Thank You

great review!👍 ...luckily I'm able to outsource my printing needs to my brother - it indeed needs quite some tinkering and practice to have the printers run without failure 😅

I have this printer and used it to print a hydroponic tower, just remember mistakes are the path to success

Thanks for the info on this 3D printer, been after one for a while and the black Friday deal is fantastic, so I just got one.

I would like you to review the new Elegoo Saturn 2 Resin 3D Printer and the Elegoo Mercury Wash & Cure two unit system. As the Saturn pints very big prints at 8K It be nice to see how you cope with it and the wash & cure system? Loving the 3D Printer review!

So what about the money? How much did the vase cost?

I just started watching the Channel and I believe you! You show NO bias

😊✔👋👋👋

Can someone tell me what I've just watched lol

what you should do is a estep calibration buddy ;) thats what u need here. The "build up" u mention can be cured with tuning of the printer sir. What version of marlin is the printer running? I guess its a 8 bit board with a 1.x version of marlin. IF so you need to lower the jerk value and save it to the printer. Alternatively u can enable jerk control in cura if you use that slicer. (and you should) Also reduce the x and y acceleration from what i think is set to 500 on your printer down to 400 at first. keep lowering the jerk incrementally until desired result is reached. The best for the printer is to flash the firmware to 2.1.1 This will give you something called linear advance and j and k values. These are found bu printing a test pattern. they are really fast new ways of tuning retractions and s curves, flow control and much much more. If have any question do not hestitate to contact me. Keep printing mate!

Might have to try their 4k resin printer against my wife's Mars 2 Pro

thanks mate.

Great printer! Sketch up is still my favorite software, easy to use and create! can still find make 2017 for free! shame they seem to like to price themselves out of the market a bit!.. sketch up is still quite expensive as it is an annual fee...

I bought 3 of these for a design idea I have, and they are fantastic for the price, upgrading one with a dual nozzle extruder for filament changes

Thank you for this info

A 3D printer which has 3D printer parts...sounds like the next step would be an auto repair function like the best space ships have (for instance Red Dwarf)

I think where it comes to negative reviews, the best approach is to do them in bulk. Talk for half a minute about a device, 30s to tell what its deal-breaker flaws are, next. five to ten devices in a single video - no need for a thorough review of something plainly bad, just tell why it's bad.

Ive made a few signs on my Ender 5 Plus. Best direct drive extruder for quick by hand swaps during prints is the Creality E-fit with a Spider hotend. Pause the print and release and pull the filament, Theres very little left in the nozzle if you do it quick. Hit print and it does its thing.

I got this printer about 3 or 2 months ago and I love it as it is also my first but after a month and a half it starting having some problems which where simple to fix except the problem that started about 2 weeks ago. My rafts would stick to my prints like if it was part of it. I later found out it could be because the x axis not being even and it was a bit wobbly. "Easy fix, all I need to do is tighten those nuts on the wheels". I have taken it apart and reasibled it I have looked up videos but no matter what I do nothing works. Even though I get rid of the wobble, the axis won't move up and down evenly. There's always one wheel that's not on the rail. I've thought of getting a 2nd z axis bar which may be the only solution but is there any way I can fix it?

Those layer lines are from cheap FDM printers. If you have a high quality machines the layers will be much more consistent and almost match resin. Check out the Wuxn WXR.

Awesome piece of equipment Joshua....maybe something I could invest in....🙂

you leave me wanting to see more lad. i will definitely subscribe. i hope to see more of the heater and now more of the printer. i just can't wait

When you use a larger nozzle size the force required to extrude the filament goes up, plus the nozzle temp also must be increased to allow the nozzle to keep at temperature while melting a larger volume of filament/sec. It’s all to do with Bernoulli's principle, don’t ask me in too much detail, I’ve always been useless in fluid dynamics. In vase mode the diameter variance effects the time taken to print a layer and hence effects the temperature of the layers while being printed and impacts layer adhesion, smaller diameters get printed quicker so material temps differentials between layers is less where larger circumferences cool more between layers and can cause issues with layer adhesion and warping. Heated or enclosures can help with material temps between layers and improve layer heights. Also dry your filaments, moisture kills filament printing and all filaments will be effected, some worse than others. Silk pla is weaker than standard pla materials but increasing your temps will help.

A printer enclosure really helps, ive had 90% fewer failures thanks to it keeping a constant temp.