Came onto your channel because I'm looking to do a Red Iron Metal Building and was checking concrete work and you showed up. Happy you did....love the channel and content. New Sub here. Thank You Mark in Florida.
If you have good drainage under the footing and drain tile around the footing with the drain tile covered with stone and filter fabric or hay on top of the stone to keep the dirt from filling the voids in the stone up, you won't have water or wet dirt under the foundation to heave it up. Then you put you 2" foam board sloped away from the foundation to further shed the water, then put a good compactable dirt one or more feet thick onto of the foam sloped away from the foundation. The foundation drain tile/pipe should not be the black coil crap, use schedule 20 or 40 perforated pipe with the holes down and make sure it slopes away from the foundation. Another thing not to do within 4 or 5' from the foundation is plant shrubs or trees. Their roots will grow right into the perimeter drain and clog it up. There are garages, roads and driveways built all of the time with no "footing" below the frost line. If the drainage is right, there won't be any water to freeze so there is no heaving. I live in Maine and have been building 46 years and we have never had a problem building this way. Even if you have a foundation below the frost line, you have to do the drainage right and keep shrubs away from the foundation. Another thing to think about is if this method didn't work, you couldn't get a building permit.
@@bondobuilt386 We'd get along great on a job. I was always taught that you build on the ground or under the ground. It's all about the drainage. I have talked to people who are going to build a house and said to them to get good drainage. Use lots of stone and pipe and take it to daylight. Use the best pipe and keep plants with big roots away from the foundation. Lots of times they replay with it's too expensive. If you don't have a good foundation, roof and weathertight walls, why bother building new.
@@royordway9157 does that go for fences as well? I’m looking to put up a fence but don’t want to dig my fourth fence posts down 42 inches. Or I was thinking putting a concrete retaining wall along the property line about 18” high then building the fence on top of that. With the retaining wall have to be 42 inches down as well? or could I just dig a shallow trench put some rock and then pour concrete on top so the concrete is only like 6 inches below the surface and sticks up above the surface 1ft?
Totally agree that drainage is crucial. Out of curiosity, why would have face the perforated pipe holes downward? In landscaping, we always face the holes upward so that the water can drain into them, then the slope of the pipe itself ensures that the water drains as desired. That's the purpose the holes in the first place.
Looking forward to the next bit of the frost protected foundation trick with the "wing insulation" technique. I bookemarled your other vid on it and will show all your "wing insulation" technique vids to the carpenter and ICF contractor before the ICF extension will allegedly be build come Spring 2023. Do you think it is over kill having wing insulation for an ICF full basement wall and where all the ICF above ground wall goes right up to where the trussus will be placed? Same as you, 4 foot rule for frost here on Prince Edward Island, just up North from you. Researching wing insulation techniques points out a 4 degree slant of the 2 or 4 foot "wing" so water runs away from the side of the basement wall. Keeping that wall and soil around it dry is very important. Also, it is the geothermal heat that gets trapped under the angled wing insulation that also helps keep the ground dry and warm. A 2 foot deep wing insulation starts at the wall and with the slope the end of the wing is deeper. I guess frost travels at a 30 degree angle? True or have you read differently? Why I am mentioning this is because it would be advantageous to use your idea of making sure the wing is very long, like 4 feet instead of 2. Cheers from Atlantic Canada. Really appreciate your video's and making sure we see how rebar is wired properly etc. 💯👍🙏🇨🇦
In michigan we only need to go down 14" below grade with 5.7 R value, no foam needs to be laid flat. Our frost/freeze protection is normally 42" on a conventional footing.
Hey Bondo love the channel been doing concrete for 6 ish years so don’t have the experience you have. I have a question tho why do you put your spreaders on before the re bar?? Wouldn’t it be easier to throw the bar in there and bend the corners then do the spreaders to tie up too? Let me know why you do the process you do please no judgement just wondering?!? We pound re barb dowels into the ground and tie the bar to the dowels and then do spreaders after words lmk why you do it the way you do. thanks again and love the channel keep it up!!
Why would they allow it to not be as deep just because of foam on the outside perimeter? Is that because theoretically it should hold heat within in the winter? How thick is the foam?
@@bondobuilt386 thanks for the response. Think you could do a video on that part? It's kinda hard to believe that it would actually do anything. If I saw the full concept I might get it though. Where the foam is actually placed and how it's oriented to stop frost from penetrating?
at $50 a sheet for ground-rated 2" blueboard you're not saving that much money haha. And yes oh yes, those rocks are much like what you find here in Central VT when we dig foundations. That's why i prefer a floating haunched edge slab. Very sturdy and stable with a foam curtain
I would not like to work for a disturbed customer. I did not watch that video, because I have enough problems. But yes, not working for an abusive customer is the right thing to do.
@@pacodefrancis7235 is this a true statement? Also the key benefit is perhaps not having it rust out because it’s stainless steel and it’s way earlier to install.
Micro-rebar works in walls, but I believe the foundation really needs traditional rebar. I believe the same is true for reinforcing above openings and other spans. You certainly wouldn't want the foundation to fail and loose its ability to carry the load.
Because they are using the tried and true (FPSF) Frost Protected Shallow Foundation (Nordic method), frost will never make it anywhere near the foundation.
@@cornpop7805 idk cornpop. Pea gravel isn't a good material for compaction. Better off with a dense pack and a plate compactor to prep the trench vs tossing some gravel after the fact. At best the pea gravel will just blend with the soil and mostly disappear. It's just like ball bearings or marbles.
@@KingSobieski I'm not saying it's the right choice of gravel, but I suspect it does have to be free draining because I believe the goal is to quickly rid water from under the footer. It's basically a french drain under the footer that has to see daylight in order to evacuate the water quickly. The above insulation keeps the shallow ground from loosing the heat that is present a lower depths. Together, the insulation, the French drain, and the higher temperatures at deaper depths protect the shallow foundation from seeing frost.
What are these issue Kevin? If the wing is 4 feet long then frost will not have a chance to get under neath and the soil under the wing will be dry so therefore no wetness means no frost heaving issues. Make the wing insulation 4 feet{not only 2 feet) and 4 degree angle to get any wetness to drain away from the wall, and plus the angle will help trap the geothermal heat further helping to keep the ground dry. We shall see what he does in his next video. Lots of work and paying attention to detail to get all this work done! Whoosh!! Cheers from Atlantic Canada.👍🇨🇦
