Except the calendar app on your phone. Literally anything is better than a paper calendar. Don't be crazy. Innovation is a good thing. I'll take automated notifications set to the exact minute I need them than a piece of paper that'll just end up making more trash.
Serendipitous timing on the magnapans being used as an example, I have a friend who was using a schiit audio Ragnarok 1 to drive magnapans and it went into fault mode and will not recover. He just sent it in for evaluation and repair.
Indeed you can feed a PDM signal into a class D amplifier and therfore stay fully digital, i.e. like this IC does: datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX98358.pdf
Either way, you make the waveform from the high/low digital level low-pass filtered to make it into analog. Most class D amplifiers are however operating with analog input that then gets translated to the PWM to drive the switching of the amplifier transistors and with analog feedback.
Ok I got it but a HMI inspector would fail this lesson, sorry Paul. He would say preparation , preparation & more preparation so it just runs silky smooth without digression. Keep the videos coming though because we love them.
Now we know how long in advance Paul makes the videos. 2nd of May on the calendar and today is the 28th of June. Paul could be on holiday for 8 weeks without us noticing. Just like the sun. If it stops we would not know for 8 minutes. Just saying :)
@@googoo-gjoob Well I don't believe you can hear differences in amps. ATI has an unusual long warranty for an amp or any hifi product for that matter. Are you familiar with Cherry amps from The digital audio company?
You sir are an absolute Gem. You've just answered my questions about Class D. I have saved some pennies and I'm current looking at buying a mini 2ch class d hifi amplifier to suit Q Acoustics 3020i Bookshelf Speakers. I'm in the UK. Any further advice or links to your products would be really helpful. Excuse my ignorance. Loved watching your channel during the lockdown. Respect your thoughts.
Audio Science Review has a great collection of tested products that can help you determine if what you're looking for is actual decent quality. Don't pay attention to subjective reviews.
A class D amplifier switches between and the plus and minus voltage rail, no resistance involved. If you regulate between the plus voltage rail and ground (for positive voltages) and between ground and minus voltage rail (for negative voltages) there is always resistance involved. Only at the moment of clipping there is full efficiency.
@@maxb.simonsen2459 Like for example a totally new type of transistor made of different materials capable of higher switching speeds and less current draw etc.
@@Bassotronics Sorry, that's not how it works :) A class AB is inefficient by design, not by choice of components if that makes sense. The class AB design is not a switching amp.
Please...I need help with a question. I'm building my home theater...I'm in love with the sound from Arcam AVR21 (yes the new model)...it's rated at 90wpc. If I bought (as example) any external 7ch amp that has (let's say) 200wpc and then hooked it up (now the question) Would I be getting the sound signature from the AVR, or the external amp. I don't care for denon or yamaha with my klipsch heresy IV, relative to Arcam. Arcam just simply sounds better to my ears. I have a great yamaha rxa3080 (until i heard my RF7iii/64iii on arcam)...but prefer the sound of Arcam. So when it comes to my second room, is it as simple as getting an Arcam Amp to gain their sound? Hope that makes sense...and any advice on where sound signatures come from when adding separates is appreciated. Take care, Tommy.
It's both. You get the sound of both and depending on what you set the volume of each source to, you'll get a matching output. Be careful not to blow up the inputs on your preamp. You want to ensure that the source is outputting what will sound best and does so without clipping. Use an oscilloscope or, if you know what to listen for, use your ears.
I'm curious to know what "tweak" there is to my Rogue Audio Sphinx V3 hybrid amp. It's a combination of tubes and Class D. I'm not the real scientific type. It just sounds great!
The tubes on those are strictly for looks. It's 100% a class D amp. Not sure what "tweak" you're speaking of. If it sounds great to you, that's all that matters.
@@orangejjay I can't imagine why you'd say that those tubes are "strictly for looks"? Clearly, they're part of what makes the amp a hybrid. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-guzgjKrc6IA.html
@@jasonkillsformomy What excessive heat? My amps run cooler than many class D amps and the fans haven't turned on once in 20 years, some class D run their fans 24/7. New doesn't equate to better. Look at all the crappy sub amp failures out there, almost all class D. Manufacturers love cheap shit more than they love durable shit, that's why you see some jump at class D while others don't touch them at all. Call me when a class D has outperformed a class A/B and has done so for 20 years. Oh, and many still sound like shit as well let alone don't give you 200 watts/channel which is the only reason why I'd consider one. And seriously, how much do you think it costs to power an amp? Anything else?
@@Roof_Pizza If a D runs it's fans all the time then that's the way the manufacturer intended them to be run and be on the safe side. What amp does this? The D amps I have seen don't even have fans because they don't need them. I'm talking about speaker hifi amps and not plate or pro amps. Newer said new equate better. There is no proof that D fails more often than AB. Pro amps have been using D forever. Everything nowadays is planned obsolescence anyway. Sure sub amps fail, but that's usually some really cheap stuff. Never heard of Pascal, ICEpower, Hypex, Purifi, Speakerpower or Cherry failing. And by that I mean I mean out of the occasional fluke. There is not a single product made in history that has not failed. Even Toyota and Honda brakes down sometimes. And that's 99% of the time do to user neglect. "Sounds like shit" Well some people imagine they can hear differences in cables, DACs, CD players, lunar phases and whatever. Not a single person have done this in a scientific controlled double blind test. Ever. And I Don't know what amps you have been looking at, but 200W is nothing for todays D amps. You can buy D with thousands of watts per channel. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with AB. D is just more efficient. Some people and not just audiphooles don't want to make changes. Some people own all their life the same brand of car as the first one they got or the same brand as their parents used.
@@jasonkillsformomy LOLZ. Looks like you and Schitt are on the same page. 'Vidar is nothing less than a no-excuses, exotic-topology, Class-AB, linear-supply, microprocessor-controlled, power-doubling, dual-mono-ish, intelligently-managed, drives-almost-anything power amp. No Class D, no switching supplies, no fans, no compromises, nothing in the signal path but music-for a three-figure price tag.' Tell me again how much it costs to run an amp!!! I think I'm at ~ 175,000 almost continuous hours.
So, a class D amplifier is twice as efficient as a class AB amplifier and four times as efficient as class A amplifier. Wow! O, wait a minute, that's only a 3 dB and a 6 dB difference. And when I give the class AB a 3 dB more efficient speaker and the class A a 6 dB more efficient, than all three have the same efficiency! And, now the funny part. Same efficiency, means an equal amount of waste energy in heat. For the class A we have a nice heavy heat sink, and for the class D amplifier with the 6 dB less efficient speakers we have a closed enclosure for at least mid and tweeter, even with some insulation (wood and damping material), for the woofer we have hopefully a "vented" enclosure with not so much insulation... And, on top of that, the last one heats up more and gives earlier and more power compression (till 6 or 6.74 dB at maximum rated power). So, some of the efficiency gain gets lost. So, if you want more efficiency, choose more efficient speakers! And get rid of the passive crossovers, with a 2-way you gain an extra 3 dB, with a 3-way 4.8 dB and with a 4-way an extra 6 dB, plus some extra efficiency for the lack of insertion loss.
