Bicycle lights have different restrictions in different places. For example, some countries do not allow the use of bicycle lights that are too dazzling, so it is best to have a bicycle light that can adjust the brightness, like a bicycle with low beam and high beam. Headlights, I personally think that might solve a lot of problems.🙂
I still have my XXL 1500, i bought it with the intention to use the 1000 setting for longer battery life. the only down side is the bulk and weight and i always keep an extra light on my bars as a back up when riding in the dark. i may get this 1600, it looks fantastic.
No offense, but you messed up with the lower lumen lights by pointing them to the ground 2 meters in front of the bike and that's so wrong and misleading.
I have used the 1500xxl for my 5am work commute for the last 3 years and have never had any issues. I tend to use the race mode most as the brighest setting has plenty of light to brighten up the pitch black country roads that I travel on and I use the second reduced qbeam as a "dipped" light for oncoming g traffic. Battery life is as described and you just have to plan usage around charges. The green, Amber and red light on the control button warns you to change to a lower lumen setting to preserve battery life. Would definitely recommend Lezyne.
'You young 'uns today, ah sure, ye don't know ye'r born. Spoilt ye are!' Seriously though, I remember in the '70's and _well_ in to the '80's, your typical bike light looking like something that hadn't changed since WWII; almost like old - time miners' lamps in fact! They weighed getting on for 2lbs (a little under a kilo) _before_ you put the batteries in: a couple of 'C', or more likely, 'D'~cells. For your troubles, going by this guide, I reckon they put out maybe 150 lumens - setting out! Of course, alkaline batteries that were anything like affordable didn't really come along until the end of the '70's (leastways in Ireland) so after a little more than an hour that 150 lumens would be down to more like 50 and at this stage you were getting into death spiral territory, no pun intended! One often felt like Cinderella, literally trying to beat the clock as they struggled home on their rattletrap bike with it's maximum of 3 gears! Given the 'lameness' cyclists were having to contend with for their front light, most people found that a pedal powered dynamo was a brighter, more reliable option for rear illumination. I'm sure it'll come as a surprise to nobody that there was *carnage* on the roads! Not helped, it has to be said, by the state of Irish roads, which themselves looked like veterans of WWII! Not to mention the dreary natural lighting conditions that typically prevail in the British Isles (let me say, I am using that term purely in the 'geographical' sense, *not* in the political sense.) To tell the truth I was never an avid cyclist, but it seems to me that the technology didn't really move on until the late '90's, and that probably what was _the one_ biggest innovation in saving cyclists from death and injury since the cycle helmet _had to_ have been decent lights equipped with a 'flasher' option - ironically illegal in Ireland, probably even now, Irish law stipulating a continuously 'on' beam. I'm guessing the proscription against 'blinkers' is a fear of confusion with indicators; however, especially in traffic or in an urban or suburban area, a bright, regularly flashing light grabs attention much more readily than a steadily lit beam.
Hi Richie. We sure are! I'd love to jump back to the 70's, feel like Cinderella enjoying a ride on an old setup. Sounds like the old lights weren't to helpful tho! Gotta say this might just win comment of the year! Chapeau Richie 🤝
Batteries? Lol. I had generator lights on my bike. A little wheel that flipped down onto the tire when you needed the light to work. Of course as soon as you stopped moving, you had no light. Lol. And this was in the 80s. And this technology was around since the 50s if not earlier. And it was barely enough light to light up ur front tire lol. If you ride really fast, maybe you could see a little in front of your front tire lol. We lived on the edge 😂😂
very well done video ! thanks. good visual comparison. and very good u mention battery time. i realised if I want to last more I should get a bigger one since it has bigger battery
This was helpful. Originally decided on ordering the 1300 because the output to battery life output looked decent but got sent a replacement set with the 800 and 150 strip lights because of no stock. Returning it soon because I'm more focused on battery life to lumen output. I have an opportunity to get a second hand 1600 for a similar price but overall unsure. Decisions decisions.
I'm using Ravemen PR900. Being able to switch between MTB and road mode is equivalent to dipping your car headlights. Road mode is fine where there are decent streetlights, MTB is ideal for country lanes and other unlit areas. And you can always dip if necessary to avoid blinding oncoming cars.
High lumen output does not mean you dazzle other road users. Poorly made reflectors that don't have a beam cut-off will dazzle even at relatively low lumens.
Dual lights 1 Cateye Ampp1100 with 1 cateye Ampp400 backup with a cateye orb rechargeable rear light with a back up Halfords blinky rear light brilliant set up for the road for me personally.
The 1600 lumen FENIX BC126R is my go to road light. The removable 5000 mAh Li - ion rechargable battery was a game changer for me. You can carry an extra battery for longer rides to switch out if needed.
Nice controlled test showing the difference in beam pattern and power output. Would it be possible to get one of these done with some different stvzo lights? So people can see how effective the cutoff is and what the spread of light is like compared to a traditional light.
Excellent review of bicycle light Lumen output! I watched this after purchasing a light 🤦♂ After doing some research I love that many manufacturers have inbuilt batteries chargeable via USB, bulk and weight are key factors IMO. What about the bracket that attaches to the bike? I ride a mountain bike and I'm concerned that a big powerful light can not handle rough bumps.
I had a question about what type of LED does Lezyne 1600 use? At maximum power will it last as long as it says or will it degrade after a certain time?
As far as I know these things go on for a looooong time. If one was to fail or degrade i'm sure lezyne would be happy to warranty the item. Wish I could tell you more but they go on what what seems like forever!
For road use you should have included designed for road use controlled light pattern lights. Those also make more effective use of Lumens by focusing them mostly on road instead of fifty-fifty between road and sky+eyes of other road users.
@@wiggle Really only lights using reflector in addition to lens avoid dazzling other road users while keeping high brightness. Busch+Müller/Lumotec has lots of such models... Though separate low/high beam models are only for eBikes. Lupine again has versions for both eBikes and for own battery use and excellent comparison tool: www.lupine.de/lighttest SL Nano (AF) would be likely excellent for most road riders. While SL (A)X has the longest reach and best "ambient"/side illumination, SL (A)F has higher from sides main beam possibly showing tree branches better in forest trails.
