I'm not Canadian but I found your video really helpful and learnt a lot about how electric ovens work. Do you have a video on why when trying to turn on the oven, the main fuse switch trips? It would be helpful to watch. Thanks again from over the pond in the UK.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found the video helpful! This video explains what is likely happening: If there is a short before the load, then the current will continue to rise and it will blow the oven fuse or trip the circuit breaker. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NCqh_D3B0ao.html It is possible that the oven element is shorted through the oven frame. This is covered in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-10ezc3LNQP4.html
I am only getting 110 volts at the bake element. Broiler gets 240 volts. This is an old kenmore built in double oven. Lower oven both elements work fine.
Thanks for watching. We don't have any PDFs or slides of our videos. There are various books on appliances and other systems that you can find on Amazon. It depends on how in-depth you want to get. We don't have any specific recommendations that we can give at the moment.
As I was attempting to clean my oven, i wanted to remove the baking element…. I uh. Accidentally pulled the bake element out (yes, the stove was plugged in) and I guess I pulled it out too far and it began smoking. (It stopped, no fire, I unplugged it.) I’m afraid to plug and test. I don’t want to screw in the screws anymore and I’m just going to have the repair man look at it. My question, can I buy a new baking element or will I need to replace the entire oven?
Thanks for watching. It sounds like the element might have been shorted or wires might have been touching the frame or insulation. Chances are a new heating element and a double check on the wires should fix the problem.
Thanks for watching. Electric ovens in North America run off two 120V AC lines of power. These are out of phase, so when connected together, one line is "pushing", when the other is "pulling". This results in 240V AC through the heating elements.
I have a Samsung NE58R9560WG Induction Range The oven part and front display on the unit stopped working but the stove top works perfectly. I replaced the DE47-20037A / AP4222778 Thermostat part but it didn't fix the problem any other suggestions on what it might be?
Thanks for watching. You did the right steps to check the high limit switch/ thermostat. You can also check the wires to see if there is damage and to make sure that the wire connections are secure. If all looks good, then it might need to install a new control board: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yLBpPg7dsg8.html
@@AmreSupply Do you know the part number for the control board? One thing i forgot to mention is i spilled some all-purpose cleaner on top of the range and I think some of it maybe ran down the back of the unit that possibly could have caused the unit to fail after the spill i was hearing some kind of strange ticking sounds
@@markglenn24 You can enter the model number in the model lookup tool: www.amresupply.com/lookup If it doesn't show up see if there is any resources or lists from Samsung customer service. If you narrow down a part number you can search that directly or browse based on here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Temperature-Controls-Main-Control-Boards-637174-AK2J Moisture or cleaner on any of the terminals could cause the terminals to be corroded so checking each of the terminals on the back is recommended.
@@AmreSupply I narrowed down the part number to DE92-03968A for the front display control panel. I also read somewhere that this model also has a simple 3601-001637 Cartridge Fuse which is just an inexpensive fuse that would make sense to try and replace first but can't find much info on it like where its located do you know anything about it that could help me ?
@@markglenn24 Thanks for the update. The video series was done on Frigidaire and Whirlpool models so it is hard to know specific details on all the models, especially Samsung as they are often a little different. The cartridge fuse might be located somewhere under the cooktop if your model is a "slide in range" with front controls. It might also be located on the back near the terminal block. If it is not exposed, look for a small cover or a small box.
Thanks for watching. Since oven elements only turn on and off, there is no middle setting, they will either be adding heat or the heat will slowly be dissipating. This means the temperature will go up and down but the average should be close to your set temperature. We made a video talking about how to calibrate an oven, you can see more here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s8UdnR4Jw_g.html
It is not recommended to bypass the control board or to rewire the oven elements to other switches. When repairing, you identify the part that has failed and replace that part with the same part of the same specs. Modifying the oven and wiring in other ways can be dangerous.
Thanks for watching. We have repair videos on how to test and replace individual components in electric stoves and ovens. We do not have any videos on gas ovens.
Why is it after sometime my ovens red light goes off and the heat reduces drastically and therefore makes my patries come out poorly. Sometimes heat is alot. I have no way of controlling my temperatures
Thanks for watching. Do you mean that the heat drops after the pre-heating cycle? Or does it just lose heat as it's running? It could be a faulty heating element or an issue with the temperature sensor. As well if the door gasket is worn out then it might not seal properly which could lose heat out the front.
Thanks for watching. Generally the broil element doesn't heat up for long and doesn't usually visibly glow during the bake setting. With that being said there are still models that don't use the broil element at all during the bake setting.
Thanks for watching. Any resister will create heat. If you're curious we made a video explaining appliance components. You might find it interesting: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e_1pOWSVUfg.html
