I don't usually do this: Paul Daniels is looking to buy a house. He developed the multimeter software I use, and openboardview which was the only alternative to the 1995, Landrex Testlink boardview software I was stuck with before. His software has made my life easier, and the lives of countless others who are using it for board repair easier. He's made amazing contributions to our industry. If you have made money using Paul Daniels' software, consider donating a dollar to make it easier for him to get a down payment on his new home. If you are a Macbook board repair technician, you know how much faster you are able to work because you're using openboardview rather than that landrex 1995 testlink garbage. If anyone has earned a dollar from the people who work in our industry, it's him. pldaniels.com www.paypal.me/pldaniels Thank you very much for taking the time to read this.
Man, I'll donate just because that type of software isn't readily available to an individual. We aren't far from a time where every irreparable item in our houses will be billed and delivered on a concurrent cycle. ...Actually, it will be part of our subsidized living expenses - debited from our recreational allotment - but enough of that... Having this type of information available is great. My thanks to all involved.
14:37 Adblock has an option in settings that allows you to whitelist channels on RU-vid, consider whitelisting louis's channel and watching whole ads to support him!
Yep, it's always important to unblock the people you support. It's nice to have adblock when people steal or make low quality content to put ads on. Otherwise, if you aren't supporting them through Patreon, but still want to support them, that's the way to do it.
@@kekt536 Yes. I had previously cancelled, but have a family plan set up now. If you have premium a portion of what you pay supports your favourite content creators. I tend to tip in addition though.
Man, your speech about pattern recognition and how your teachers said you'd never get anywhere? STORY OF MY LIFE. And as a certified, well-liked (in my town) computer repair tech? In my teachers' faces!
Louis, your brakes: I'm an amateur bike mechanic. Me and my friends ride $2000 bikes downhill at lift-access resorts, and I built my bikes as I moved up in skill from pieces. Frame and all. I'm not an expert but I've worked through a lot. I assume you have mechanical rim brakes. There's multiple possibilities. Some of these answers are for disc brakes, but most work for both types. 1. Your brake cable is too tight. You can obviously adjust the bolt to adjust tension, but the splined adjuster on your actual brake handle is for fine adjustment. Use it. 2. They're not lined up correctly. Yes, loosening the bolts, grabbing and tightening can work for ballparking it, but not what you want for precision. Loosen the bolts just enough to give you a little room to play (still with friction, so they don't move on their own), then adjust. If they are disk brakes, look down between the brake caliper and use that to guide you to center it exactly. 3. Your DISK may be bent. This is EXTREMELY common, if you have disk brakes. To check, look down between the caliper with your bike upside down. Spin the wheel backwards to freewheel it. Check the disk to see if it moves between the caliper. If it is bent, use an adjustable wrench to grab it and bend it back into alignment. 4. If you have rim brakes, your rim may be bent. This can be fixed by truing the wheel with a special tool (inexpensive) and following RU-vid instructions, but for anything other than a minor bend you may want to have that rim replaced. 5. Worst case. Frame cracked. Check carefully around the rear triangle for any sort of frame damage. You know what to look for I'm sure.
If it's a bike that he decided to attach a motor to, I'm betting it's a disc brake. It's also pretty possible that it's a hydraulic disc brake, which means it couldn't be the cables.
So i am a Bike mechanic at a shop and i would say that its most common that the Mounting points are messed up. more common with the "IS" you can bend this part if your not careful and will missalign the brakes in a way its not adjustable, of course there might be bent hardware if the motor tweaked the frame and if he cracked it anywhere and rode it chances are he would have noticed. i am aware im a bit late but im happy to see im not the only cyclist that has an interest in pc's.
Hey, I'm a intermediate computer programmer and have very little to no idea what youre really talking about when it comes to circuitry but I really do appreciate your wisdom and enjoy your rants about the crooked things apple does. Thank you for all your content. (disables ad block)
At this point I come for Louis's personality rather than learning anything; I'm more of a software guy. Though, I always seem to learn something anyway! Great videos Louis. Hope you can get that new store soon.
I love that you put how much you make a day on RU-vid, honest as fuck. Most other RU-vidrs always be hiding the fact of how much they make. Great stuff
Customer, spends $1000 on phone, quibbles over $80 for screen repair on something that was probably their own fault. You don't need those people in your life.
I got a quote in excess of $200 dollars a couple years ago for my Pixel XL screen replace. That was about the norm for that phone. I didn't do it but I would have gladly for $80.
Watching Louis is like watching Tom Sawyer paint the fence. He makes it look so much fun you want to pay him to keep doing it along with helping him with diagnostics.
Scentsy oil, lemon-aide, beer, orange juice, carrot juice, milk, and wine - not in that order - are the other liquids I've found on Macbooks. Beer is toxic to circuits - like, less than 24 hours, chips are half eaten - and Scentsy oil softened all the plastics and some light plastics turned gooey. Smelled nice though lol.
Please don't ever forget how insanely good this guy is at screw management, like he just sticks a magnet on his screwdriver and sticks every screw onto that yet somehow just knows where they all go back? insane. there's atleast 4-5 different screw lenghts/thread counts in that macbook alone and he just doesn't even care
I happen to be a bicycle mechanic, unfortunately I live in Sweden. If you can upload a video of your problem I might be able to make a video telling you how to solve it.
Any chance of some footage of the brake mechanism and see it rubbing? Maybe some of us out here could come up with some ideas? Sadly I live in Ireland or I would call around and look at it for you. Sadly for you I’ve never been romanced by Apple or ever stupidly tempted enough to by ANY APPLE LAPTOP.
Yeah, i can think of 3 things that could make it rub. 1, the frame is bent which would be the worst. 2, the rotor is bend second worst. 3 the wheel needs truing
Upvote so Louis can see this please, I have a colleague who can check out your bike, please let me know if you’d like his info, I’m also in the repair business (My Computer Tech, Upper East) been a fan of yours since my high school days
Hi there, a girl i love moved to NY for a two months and when i though that she might need something there and i could not help her i instantly thought about Louis, i spent so much time watching him repair stuff that i feel like he is a friend of mine that i can trust
You know. I’ve been watching a lot of your videos for a few months now. Not only do I love watching content about computers and fixing them, this, your job, is also just about exactly what I want to do in a career. I am hoping to do something like this, maybe even apply for your work, once I’m through with college
I legitimately enjoy your videos. I work on component-specific devices both at work and in my free time (since I have nothing better to do aside from video games and gym) however what I work on is a world of difference from Macbooks. So here I sit on my day off watching a video you put out before the Holiday that I got paid to take off and enjoy yet instead I am watching what resembles my job. LOVE IT
As a mechanic my self - you've stated that your brakes aren't releasing and are hydrolic .. it could be one of two things ... 1 - the Piston in the caliber is old and rusty and is preventing the release of the brakes - which if taken apart and carefully cleaned and reassembled should resolve the issue. 2 - the slider pins on the brake saddle are probably sticky too and need cleaning and lubed should add to the relief of dragging brakes.. Or - 3 - the brake lines themselves have collapsed internally and will need replacement...
Yes, all steps correct, except I'd also add that the discs them selves may be marked or corroded. He also didn't say "not releasing" he said rubbing. Which, given the nature or hydraulic disc brakes, could be very subjective. All pads rub while they get pushed to retract till they barely skim the discs so if the caliper sliders are sticking or the disc surface is corroded that rubbing will be exacerbated.
As someone who also works on his own bikes here's a list of things that I've done to fix my brakes -for V brakes, are the tension screws adjusted? if they are fully adjusted, unhook them and bend them back a bit b/c the springs could just be a bit worn -for C brakes, there should also be a screw that adjusts the balance of tension on the two sides -for disk brakes, adjust cable length and the position of the stationary pad (unless you're fancy and have one of the ones where both pads move, in which case adjust them both) -for C and V brakes, check that the wheel is aligned properly and that the rim is straight (when the wheel spins, does it wobble?) if it does, then use the spokes and a spoke wrench to adjust the tension of the spokes so that the rim is straight -also for C and V brakes, check that the pads themselves are not misaligned, so when brakes are not engaged, does it rub on the tires, and when brakes are engaged, do the pads have solid contact with the rim and doesn't touch the tire. if the pads touch the tire at any time, adjust the position and angle of the pads with the alan head screw on the back of the pad -for V brakes, check that the disk is not warped -for ALL of the above, check that the wheel bearing is not loose, if it is, adjust the nut that holds it together until there is no wobble in the wheel bearing, but not overtightening it to the point of restricting rotation too much. You've probably tried most of these already, but I hope this is of help to you
When you try to help people over the internet without seeing the board at all, without being able to put probes on it, without knowing what happened and what's happening, you have to go through those disgusting and confusing Intel datasheets. :'( And not just one, because they change and there are missing information depending on the generations. And also going through the schematics from Macbook boards but also non-Apple board (thanks Clevo) to figure out what may be the correct power sequence, what's the purpose of that specific signal, what are the requirements for this to come on. And reading Russian forums to find out what people observed on what board with what issue, what did they find out. Great source of information. Or read coreboot's source code to understand in better details what's involved in the BIOS POST process. Finally, trying to observe the behaviour of your own boards when possible. There's always a lot to learn, it's never ending. But that's also part of the fun.
My dad used to be a bike mechanic. For some reason he kept boxes of bike spokes and now uses them for, well everything. One time a friend dropped their car key in a sewage grate and he pulled out a bike pump and a bike spoke, bent the bike spoke around the handle of the pump, put it through the grate upside down, and hooked the key. Glad no one was looking.
if its hydraulic brakes then you might have to re bleed it or evenly balance the brake callipers to prevent the rubbing. or just hit up Seths bike hacks
More life lessons and MacBook repair as well you deserve a lot more than you get from You tube. As long as you enjoy sharing like you do you will always have us your band of loyal viewers. Thanks Louis Little Aussie Follower ....
Hi Louis! what kind of brakes do you have? some bikes use cables, other use fluids. fluid type disc brakes need adjustment, you may have brake fluid leaking. use the right brake fluid in your manufacturer. drum brakes are kind of complex but some of them are self-adjsuting, others you have to adjust yourself. have you replaced the springs and tightened the nuts? maybe the hub is warped. check on that first.
One would assume that his hydraulic brakes use fluid - otherwise he wouldn't have referred to them as "hydraulic". (That's the sort of attention to detail that helped me to become a successful repairer.)
If it is hydraulic brakes then i would suggest to change the brake fluid if you havent allready. Brake fluid is hydrophillic, which means it absorbs water(moisture), this can occur overtime or if the reservoir is leaking. Water in brake system will cause the fluid to boil easily when brakes are used and thus there will be pressure buildup( brakes starts to rub).
@@Rustyy4 Wenn der Druckpunkt fest und knackig ist es nicht die Bremsflüssigkeit. Meist ist es die Bremsscheibe. i usw Hayes 180mm or SRAM also Shimano BR Sm RT 76 also Avid 180
@@Rustyy4 Actually if you have water in brake system, it boils and turns into a gas and it will compress more easily. So your brakes would start to slip.
Hey Louis, regarding your bicycle brake alignment. You might want to check if your rotors are bent. You can check so by flipping your bike over and just roll the wheel, if you hear a continuous sound of the rotor rubbing, it could be because that your brake caliper needs to be realigned. If not, it means that your rotors are bent and your rotors needs to be bend back straight:) hope it helps
Not a bike mechanic but last year my brakes were constantly rubbing somehow. It started right after I replaced one of tires. Non of the "pros" could say what was going on, one told me that I should drive less aggressively whatever that meant. Solution turned out to be simple. One arm of V shape spring holding brake blocs together was slightly bent... 30 second repair.
Aye that might work on normal rubber brakes but on hydraulic disk brakes? the tolerance there is like 1mm on each side so if something was janky and bent, i think you would notice a much greater impact
@@karlfranz2pl oh damn! Didn't know that, I thought you meant like those older type of brakes that ran directly on the rim ^^ Thanks for letting me know tho, I'ma bout to fix my bike up and iirc, I had something similar, but I think my problem comes from a warped disk :c
I've dealt with quite a few brake problems before. Not exactly an expert but have been in a volunteer program helping people fix bike brakes (V-brakes) during college. The usual problem is spring tension on the brake clamps, but I would assume you've tried it already. A more easier overseen issue would be with the cable, if you have not done so yet, swap the wire with a new one and apply proper lubricant within the casing plastic tube. The springs within the brake handles can also be an issue easily overseen. A usual tendency for the cable issue is that it can be adjusted properly initially i.e. you can adjust the position properly and rotate to wheels for zero rubbing, but once you hold on the brake it does not return to the calibrated position and starts rubbing afterwards.
I had exactly the same problem with my bike that had Avid Elixir hydraulic brakes with constantly binding brakes. The problem turned out to be the brake fluid. The fluid had absorbed some moisture and in hot weather the moisture released air bubbles into the fluid that as you know expands in hot weather, this increased the pressure into the brake system and was enough to cause the pads to bind. I had the fluid replaced which worked fine for a while but the problem persisted. In the end I replaced the hydraulics with cable operated which are almost as efficient and the problem disappeared. I hope this helps, by the way, I love your videos even though I'm not in your line of work but I appreciate talented professionals. Regards, Graham Smith in the England
Bike mechanic from California here (I don't have a mac). For hydraulic disc brake with incessant rubbing, things I would check, in order: 1. Wheel is centered and fully seated in dropouts. 2. Wheel is fully secured (skewer fully tightened). 3. Rotor is fully secured to hub. 4. Caliper is fully secured to frame. 5. Rotor is straight. 6. Caliper's pads are properly retracted (*). 7. Caliper is properly centered over rotor. * You have probably encountered the advice to push the pads/pistons back into the caliper. Sometimes (I've seen this issue, and burned over an hour beating my head against the wall) just pushing the pistons into the caliper will not fix the issue, because the root problem is how the pistons are moving in their seals. Try cleaning and lubricating each piston individually with the appropriate brake fluid (using DOT on a mineral oil brake will destroy the seals and vice versa), then pushing the pistons back into the caliper. While you're at it, try sanding/lapping the surface of the brake pads before you reinstall, just to make sure you're working with a clean surface. Best of luck if you haven't already gotten the issue resolved!
Mr Rossmann Make sure the caliper is free to move on it's pivot , it must have loose horizontal play to self center when you release the brake. If it's the fixed caliper type then the non moving pad needs seating back into it's place then adjust the caliper so the pad does not rub on the disk. Put a sheet of thick paper between the pad and disk as a temp spacer. If the moving pad is not fully retracting when the brake is off try cleaning the piston seal or the brake lever valve.
Yes, today I learned that ether you can install a logic IC upside down from the original and it still works, or that (more likely) IC manufacturers can screw you over by printing on the IC up side down.
Louis, take a photo/video of your bike and brakes - hopefully, someone from the RU-vid community can help. As you've tried loosening the calliper bolt and retightening, the only things I can think of are the following: (1) play in the wheel hub (check side to side movement of the wheel - can be fixed by tightening the cone nuts in the hub), (2) wheel is not seated properly in the dropouts, (3) disk rotor is warped (check to see if it is straight and true), (4) caliper piston is seized.
Rubbing disc brakes? Loosen caliper bolt, align caliper with disc, hold brake lever fully down, tighten caliper bolt, no movement while tightening. Of course, if you have a bent disc, or damaged caliper, then this wont fix it.
Hey Louis the problem is probably a spring tension difference between the two arms. Look at what they use to get away from your rim and adjust the loose side.
To fix your Break Rub - Try using a rake Pad & Rotor Alignment Tool loosen the pads pop the tool on the disc between the pads and tighten, remove tool before riding off! Fixed my breaks rubbing. Good Luck
Jesus man, drop me a message and i'll talk you through how to sort your brakes but i'm gonna need more than a vague description of "they are rubbing" post a vid or send some pics (i've posted some comments on what it could be) I was a professional bike technician for 7 and a half years and never gave up working on them, omnipresence however is not one of my skills!
Hi Louis , it might be the return valve is not letting the fluid back to the reservoir properly , Might also be a very small piece of dirt got into the valve when you had to turn the bike upside down to fit the motor . The return valve will be in the reservist near the lever, another thing would be to check the hoses to make sure it has not got pinched and is restricting the fluid from returning.
my old trick was the loosen bolts. Pull back on the wheel until there was no slack in the chain and wheel. tighten one side then the other. but also checking alignment before both are tight
I had a similar issue with my bike for about a year. Figured out this year that I messed up reasembling my disc brake such that the spring wasn't in enough tension in a resting position to fully retract from contact.
If your breaks are rubbing you need to true the bike wheel. I am a repair technician in the same business but i happened to do my gold certificate for bike mechanic. The first thing you do before setting the brakes is true the wheel. This can be done by adjusting, loosing the spokes around the wheel, you will need a true tool to gauge what spokes to adjust, loosing, tighten. This will make your wheel as straight as possible, ensuring no buckle whilst the wheel rotates. You can adjust the pads to compensate in the meantime but your pads will wear unevenly. I would true the wheel, replace the cable and adjust the break tension. If you adjust breaks and the wheel is badly needing trued, no matter how much adjusting you do to the breaks it will not fix the rubbing.
The brake issue is likely due to a loose nut behind the handle bars... lol. But seriously, make sure you lubricate the calipers and the pins to allow them to slide back in place after the brakes are applied. Since they are hydraulic, you may also have an issue with a weak master cylinder spring or whatever helps to pull the fluid back into the reservoir or actuator back to the normal, non applied position. I sincerely hope this helps as I am not sure what bike you are riding. I am more of a former motorcycle/auto repair guy who has moved on into robotics and automation. Thanks for your videos!
In hydraulic brakes of any kind the rubber lines sometimes collapse internally and cause the brakes to push out normally but not to release getting stuck with pressure on the rotor or wheel. As far as I know the only way to test this is with a pressure gauge fitted into the bleed valve hole on the caliper.
Had same problemo .. somewhere within the cable shielding it needs lubrication .. the spring is just not strong enough to overcome the slow return of the cable. I used ultra thin turbine lubricating oil .. you could also use ultra thin snowblower oil to drip it along and work it underneath the cable cover and work out the friction .. wherever that may be.
I'm not a bike tech but I've fixed this issue on my ebike. My bike came with traditional old school breaks and I upgraded it to disc after smoking 3 sets of break pads in 2 weeks.. lol.. Louis on many disc brake setups only one side is pulled towards the rotor the other side has to be adjusted out to just barely meet the rotor. This worked for me at least: Start by backing off the adjustment screw on the inside and loosen your break cable a bit.. bring the inside pad out to where you can barely slide a piece of paper between it and the rotor. then readjust the brake cable. My issue was I brought our the inside pad to where it was always in contact with the rotor and the outside was to far out.. This happened because I was to lazy to readjust brake cable in caliper and just turned the adjustment screw on the inside more. Doing this fixed mine but as the say mileage may vary. If this doesn't work your caliper may be bent. Perhaps maybe when dumb cabby open door into bike lane caliper got bent?
Hi Louis, I'm sure someone said this before. But you should have your wheels aligned. One guess, but a very likely cause, especially if the wheel spins freely in one part but stops at the other when rotating 360 degrees.
You need to have a heavier spring for your brakes to back off.Bend the spring further. Also you need to adjust the cable at the lever. I fix everything,but I left brooklyn in 1994 because it sucked there.
Louis as for your disc brakes the caliper could be out of alignment, or wheel is not in correctly there could be dirt in the piston causing the brakes pads not to retract, cleaning with isopropyl alcohol also look up how to maintain disc brake by gcn, gmbn, and park tools, hope this helps
Hey Louis rossman I recently repaired my hp laptop as children destroyed the screen on the hp laptop but surprisingly the laptop works as normal I also upgraded it with an ssd and mx-4 thermal paste its alot cooler and faster to startup and shutdown then before and alot cheaper as I did the repair my self.😊
In not in the area (netherlands) but I think you are talking about a typical V-brake. One cable pulls 2 springed levers with breaker pads on them. It's simple, 2 springs can never give the exact same amount of tension. It can be adjusted by the tiny screws on the sides tho. Also the pads should be positioned so that the surface touches the side of the rim when breaking or else they deform. Switching the pads is easy. Also the rim needs to be straight or else you get the annoying repeated squeak. Axels with built in breaks are the long term solution. Upgrade x1000 😉 love what you do and learning alot. Trying to flip some mac's to boost income so I will prolly throw some questions your way. 😉
I never thought about it Louis, I have and incredible sense of pattern recognition, made pretty much every job I've ever done simplistic, while others just never recognize the patterns. I never heard that though
Hey @HaxMcGee I'm confused. I see in's and out's on both sides. My eyesight sucks, but, there are arrows going opposite directions on the left and the right. What am I missing? Thanks for and clarification.
I don't know if you ever got the bike fixed, but it sounds like either a Caliper hanging up, or a weak/broke/missing brake pad separator; it is a small spring that pushes the pads back away from the Rotor, many brakes uses them, even some cars.
Check your rotor and see thst it's true. It can be trued. Check your calipers and see if one piston is sticky or has limited movement. You may need to service/clean/replace the bad piston. When you clamp the wheel in the dropout make sure the tension on the skewer is approx the same each time.
