nice video, very professional!! No f bombs no loud music clean cut no tats running up the neck with metal rings. This is a rare treat......professionalism!! Great service thank you
REALLY TRULY GREAT!!!! 1.method awesome, 2. the way you use tools is SAE GREAT, 3. Unexpectedly, I ran into a seized caliper problem and because your video had the problem as well , I handled without issue. thank you so much !! Carl
Your video helped me immensely. I was able to change both front calipers, rotors, and pads on my 02 4runner. I almost gave up due to rust on the calipers being so bad. But I bought a breaker bar and was eventually able to get those calipers off. This video had everything I needed thank you for taking the time to make it.
Fixin to go this for the first time on my 4Runner. Spent years as a young man reading the Chilton's manual trying to learn repair techniques and understand the sequence of steps. Thank you for making this video! BTW US Army retired
This video is insanely helpful! !! Thank you for helping this LADY to change her brakes and calipers!!! Thank you Jesus for this gentleman's excellent help. From the United States of Texas!
Jim, hoping you can help me with a diagnosis on a 2001 Olds Aurora 4.0 L V8 with a Northstar engine - the trouble is the car overheats, but not always. I suspect it's the water pump, but before I get into taking it apart I wanted a mechanics advice. Here is what I know: 1. There is no fill reservoir on the radiator, it is filled at the overflow; which I believe is full (on this fill tank it's very hard to see the correct level due to its design with the arrow down the side of the tank). 2. I replaced the t-stat. 3. When I turn on the car both the fans come on after the water temp starts to go above normal temp. 4. The car has no heat (most of the time, but sometimes it will have heat). 5. When the car starts warming up the hose leading the the t-stat stays cool, but the other hose does get hot. 6. The water pump does not seem to be making any squeaking noise. Today I drove the car about 5 miles and the temp gauge was just below the red zone when the heat started to come out of the vents and the gauge began go down to normal - I had stopped the car at that point. 7. the radiator is about 2 years old. Just FYI - the car has about 160k miles, and there is an oil leak around the upper oil pan which I have not fixed because I can't do that (at least I have never tried to) and it's more costly to have done at a shop then the car is worth. Can you provide me with any incite on the heating issue. Thank you, Scott S
Love that OTC shop light. I have the same one, and it's great for engine compartment work (in tight quarters). plus virtually no risk of fire because of the LEDs.
Well done Jim. Love doing complete brake jobs with all new parts. I've just ordered a hand pump pressure bleeder. I'll let you know how I get on with it.
You can also put tubes over the bleeder that lead to a soda bottle with fluid in it and pump yourself until there is no air in the tube and just fluid. It is cleaner and doesn't require another person to pump brakes.
Very well done video. I was wondering though - if you opened up the bleeder valve when compressing the pistons would that be preferable to possibly overfilling the master cyl reservoir? You could attach a catch hose and can to the bleeder valve. Just an idea.
Thanks Jim! Great tutorial. One question, when bleeding the lines, I'm guessing the reservoir cap is tight, but after bleeding the air with all the obvious brake fluid flowing with it. Did you top off the brake reservoir to the full line?
have a 2005 runner that I have replaced the front driver side rotor twice along with the caliper. The last rotor change warped in one day, and now the rotor is back to free spinning and binding in one spot as it comes full circle back into the caliper. seems there is an abundance of problems with these runner brake systems. may be looking into a warped hub assembly next or improperly seated bearing causing the rotor to not spin true
I just replaced front rotors and pads on my 03 T4R. I also had to replace my front right caliper because, like this one, I had one piston stuck in the out position. Do you always change calipers in pairs? Thanks in advance!
Hi Jim! I'm looking to do this brake replacement on my 4runner and I was wondering... where do you order your brakes from? Do you order them from the manufacturer (OEM parts) or is there a brand that you like to buy? If you have a link or number I could call that would be wonderful! Great video, very helpful!
Hi” nice job your doing, what courses the brake peddle to rumble up & down slightly under braking, my pads are due a change, Toyota invincibility 2012 pick up 3 litre.
@jimthecarguy I was told that when bleeding the lines the assistant after pumping needs to hold the break peddle down until after the bleeder valve is closed before releasing the peddle. Is this true?
Do you have to bleed the calipers in the rear also of you only changed the two calipers in the front? I just recently change my front calipers in the front but not the ones in the rear. And I was wondering If i should bleed all 4 calipers or just the two front that I changed....
Hi Jim ... another great video ... thank you! Did you get your parts from the Toyota dealer or did you go with another supplier? Do you have a parts preference?
when replacing a tranny screen or filter, you ever use rtv or permatex on the pan gasket? A lot of people just use some tack spray adhesive, so its not such a pain scraping all the sealant off when changing the oil out again
wow is that an approved method to close off the brake line??? I wouldn't want to be in that vehicle (or any surrounding vehicle) during high speed braking. Dude its a brake line (and a front wheel to boot) NOT a garden hose that you want to stop the water flow on. Scary.
How in the world could the calipers possibly slide at all on those rested slide pins with all that rust on them? Leave it to toyota to come with a stupid set-up like that.
It is a fixed four piston caliper -- it does not slide Same set up on a race car & they are not stupid are they What your seeing is customer ignorance & neglect Failure to remove all brake parts once a year,remove all rust,inspect & relube I guess you never work on your own brakes or look at new cars just off the assy line--- they come to the dealers bone dry No lube & you would be correct there--how would they work Not well or you wouldn't hear about all the brake squealing I never had a brake issue in over 50 years & I bet Jim's work doesn't either
